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  3. @chloemmetcalf What are the dimensions of the kiln interior. If we know the volume of the kiln we can compare that and the wattage to other kilns of similar size to get an idea of how hot it will get.
  4. Thinking along Rae's line, a setup where you have a motor like that from a microwave turntable, and some jury-rigged pulleys and a belt, may work just fine, and could be done on the cheap. It's something I've thought about in the past and this thread has gotten me to thinking again. I've made banding wheels from thrift store ceiling fans and the motor can be got from a discarded microwave oven. It's something to consider if you are mechanically inclined.
  5. Since I can't find info on this I am guessing it may be a moronic question, if so I apologize. I am familiar with using wadding in gas kilns to stack items but I do not know if wadding can be used in electric kilns - I have seen plate stackers which are very expensive and have read mixed reviews on the outcome after their use. It occured to me that maybe I don't have to buy a plate stacker but can use wadding instead. A plate takes up so much real estate in the kiln so I do not make many - but I would like to. I know how to make the wadding from 50/50 EPK and Alumina. Another question related to this one is why, since the wadding does not stick to items, then why does it leave marks?
  6. I'm using a white stoneware, IMCO "DC 3-5" ...of the several white stoneware clays I've tried, my glazes fit it; the others*, I had crazing. How suitable it is for large forms? ...it's fine for as large as I go. It does dry well, in that it holds its shape and is less prone to cracking than many others. *My glazes fit one other white stoneware I've tried, Clay Planet's "Venus White" - IMCO is closer, and we go by there several times a year...
  7. Think about mounting the motor outside of the booth to avoid these issues.
  8. Did you ever find the manual? If so, I would interested in having a copy as well.
  9. They are still in business so a call to Amaco might be revealing. They also seem to sell Amaco motors as well as brushes on their site. Maybe matchup to what you have. Your motor hopefully has a nameplate. Amaco website https://shop.amaco.com/equipment/parts/brent/wheel-motors/
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  11. Thanks so much; I'll consider that. I've heard of gold in cracks but never thought of it in crazing. I'll look into it. I have some very low-fire gold "over-fire" (probably not the correct word, but that's the best I can do at this moment) that might be interesting. Might as well play with it. I'll refire it once at a slightly higher temp; and if that doesn't work at all, I'll give some of the other options, especially the gold, a try. Thanks.
  12. In first post of the topic, Mark. Looks like been used for pottery re surface of bottom shelf... bisque kiln?
  13. If the crackle was pretty dense and it does re-craze it might be worth considering an "iron wire and golden thread" effect.
  14. Hi, I am wondering if you guys have a good white clay body recommendation for throwing large forms that I will then alter. I asked this already in another post and was told to try Soldate 60 which I will be doing I am just curious if there is a white/lighter clay body that’s good for what I’m trying to do. cheers T
  15. One to look at might be this one for the blue, using the pot spar and cobalt carb you have (increase the cobalt carb to approx 1.60) for the blue glaze, not many ingredients in it and it has a good history. I'ld give it a try with the grolleg you already have. I would also try it with an increase the red iron oxide to tone down the blue a bit and maybe 1 - 1 1/2% manganese dioxide if you have some. For the rim and foot I'ld start with a test of a simple 50:50 mix of your wood ash + your local red clay and see what it does. I agree with Mark, the pot you posted looks more like a salt fired pot rather than soda.
  16. Ended up ordering a black Brent CXC, thanks for the help everyone!
  17. Kilns rated to 2300F are cone 8 kilns. It'll get you to cone 6, but your element life will not be as good as a cone 10 kiln. You'll likely get 70-80 firings from a set of elements instead of 130-150. The elements just can't wear as much before they're too worn to do the job. If you're only doing a bisque and glaze once a month that's probably not a big deal. If you're firing weekly, the added cost of elements will add up quickly. Also, look up what new elements for the kiln will cost. The price can vary greatly among Paragon kilns.
  18. Hello everyone. I am an intermediate potter and I usually fire my things at the studio. The kiln at the studio fires up to cone 10 , but I usually stick to cone 6. I am in the process of searching for my own kiln and I came across a paragon SNF24 for 700 bucks. It seems like a really good deal but it looks like the max temperature is 2300 F. I know that cone 6 usually reaches 2232 so I’m wondering if this would be a good investment for me or should I just stick to finding a kiln that reaches cone 10? I read online that if you want to fire mid range, you should get a kiln that can reach cone 10 even if you don’t plan on using it to that temperature because the elements can wear out faster. but I feel like I’m seeing mixed responses so I just wanted any kind of insight or opinions on whether or not I should get this kiln if I fire to cone 6. Thanks!
  19. Yea I wouldn't want to give a big bucket to a student, maybe brushing glazes are the way to go for them. I have been trying that recently with 100g of glaze and 2-5% gum/binder which covers 3 mugs. Trying to escape having to have all glazes in buckets.
  20. Looking for any pottery wheels like brent, speedball, skutt, or shimpo in San Diego County, CA around $400-$700
  21. Yes. Currently I have an abundant supply of ash, n. syenite, grolleg, potash, cobalt carbonate, copper carb, r. iron oxide, local red and white clays, spodumene and alumina hydrate (you might be able to tell I have a particular fondness for shino's and ash glazes based on this list). I am willing to buy more materials as well, but I'd like the glaze to be pretty simple still.
  22. Hi, I have a similar Amaco 15 wheel that need some tlc. I purchased a new belt but noticed someone mentioned a tire that the cone rides on. There is no rubber tire on the wheel I have. Is there a blow out diagram of this wheel or a link on how to maintain it? I live in Central America and this wheel has seen much better times but the motor is working!!
  23. I like to use Veegum T to fix short batches of reclaim. I keep a tub of hydrated Veegum next to the pugmill. After each batch is mixed, I test for shortness, and if needed, put in a small scoop full of the hydrate Veegum and mix some more. Veegum is expensive, but it doesn't take a lot to fix a batch of clay.
  24. I agree strongly. India ink enhanced crazing can be very dramatic and beautiful. If you or the gallery owner can't live with the result, the ink will burn off if you refire the piece.
  25. Hi SacredDrop, Welcome to the Forum! The motor might need a clean up, and/or new brushes? ...could have a bad switch, faulty winding (particularly if the two speeds are achieved via two separate windings)? Identifying and correcting the problem(s) might extend the life of the motor*. Finding an electric motor shop that can help - I see there are several in the Boise area - might take some looking and luck. Can the motor be repaired? Is it worthwhile? From Boise Electric Motor Repair webpage: "We repair pumps and motors of any kind." *the sparking and heat (and hence, smells) may reduce the life of the motor...
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