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About moh

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  1. Thanks everyone, and I've found the problem and solution! When I glaze smaller pieces I've usually done a single dip to cover both inside and out. This worked when my pots were thicker. But I've since thinned my walls, and the issue was being caused by too much water and too thin a wall for the water from the glaze to go. What I do now is -- glaze the interior, let it sit for a few minutes and then dip the outside separately. Haven't had a problem since changing to this method. I usually work in batches so the timing works out well.
  2. I've been facing this strange behavior of this particular clear glaze. It's not every firing, but some. And even in the same kiln firing, this doesn't happen in some and pretty badly in other pieces. Any ideas? Left is the strange one, right is ideal. No wax, no lotion, no dirty that's been sitting on it (pieces are all wiped clean before glazing).
  3. It's ok Ann! Thank you for the input.
  4. Hello! I'm looking to create a a DIY jolly/jigger setup that will see heavy use. I do not want to spend thousands on existing systems. Read some books on slipcasting and other high output production methods but I wasn't able to find exactly what I was looking for for j/j, I'd love advice on the following from folks who know the ins and outs!: 1. What book(s) would you recommend on learning how to create molds and the inner template for the j/j system? I bought the Donald Frith book at the recommendation in another post but I did not find anything on j/j. 2. I've read some not so good things about the Axner arm. Have you successfully made the arm from home depot/scrap yard at a budget? Would love guidance on this. 3. How thick should the walls and bottom of the mold be? Thank you!
  5. I've been curious about creating dinnerwares specifically for chefs/restaurants. Does anyone make a living in that niche? I'm specifically interested in: - What are some considerations that may not be immediately obvious and was a learning experience for you - How many different shapes do you carry? - 70%? 80% of retail? Thank you
  6. Anyone have a reliable shadow blue glaze recipe for cone 6? Seems to be much more popular as cone 10.. Thank you!
  7. @hitchmss - If you press your tiles, why does it even need to be compressed in numerous directions before the pressing? I'd assume when the clay is out of the bag you can just wire it and press? Thanks again everyone for the tips. Can't tell ya how it's good to hear there're solutions to the issues I've been having.
  8. Thanks everyone for the tips. What I've been doing -- if the tiles were to be 0.42" (3/8" once fired), start at 1.25" and work my way down in quarter increments, turning 90 degrees to ultimately end up at the 3/8". It's been hit and miss. Now that you mention the cordierite´╗┐ kiln shelves, I think it may be the issue with my kiln shelves. I'll start debugging there... Those advancers don't come cheap (!!) Note about glazes - my tiles are not glazed. I just sand the hell out of each one (bought a sandblaster for the purpose). @hitchmss -- did you build your own press? @min - I use grollegg porcelain, something that was recommended to me as a tile clay
  9. Hi all, I recently did couple of large trade shows and the overwhelming number of feedback received was about making my work into large tiles. 12", 18" squares. My work includes no undercuts, but very fine inlays that need mishima-ed. I purchased a electric slab roller for the purpose but am getting feedback that it makes the particles align in weird ways and I haven't been able to get it completely flat (tried the drywall sandwiching, no overhandling) With that said, I'm thinking to go the route of slipcasting to fill in the gap between where I'm now and where I will be when a RAM becomes financially viable. Any cons and pros about slipcasting tiles would be appreciated.
  10. I have 2 electric kilns just over 10 cubic ft each. They run all the time, I'm a full time potter.
  11. I'd try this: Roll out thick first with a rolling pin. It'll probably be uneven. Then Use dowels as leveling guides on both ends and use a very thick dowel (they have those 2" ones) as a rolling pin alternative. I've used this method and works well for me personally
  12. Definitely uneven thickness of wall vs bottom and somewhere in between. Maybe try throwing the clay upside down after the clay is wedged into a cone. Usually solves S crack problems, but may fix yours, who knows.
  13. Hi there, I apply Duncan gold premium luster in some of my work and it's not a local application but more a whole inside glaze thing (see photos) But I often get these strange matting or even crusting of the luster. Other than burning away this very expensive material and a do over, is there something i can do? I'm afraid to refire.
  14. @liambesaw @magnolia-mud-research Yes, that's what I found as well, but apparently they come in different size....will keep asking around
  15. Hello! Has anyone worked with sandblasting 1) bisque; and 2) unglazed ^6 surface (porcelain)? With my work I sand the entirety of the piece, so looking to use sandblasting for overall satin smooth feeling (320 grit) when said and done. I purchased a sandblaster but lost on which sand I should get.
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