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  3. If the pots centers and throws well staright on wheelhead with NO BATS USED then its a bat issue. Try that first then you will know.
  4. Sorry that doesn't exist. Maybe something like a polymer clay would be better? Fimo and Sculpey are the major brands. What is the application you're wanting to use it for?
  5. I've had two electricians out to assess the circuitry. Either way I'm looking at $1000 of electrical work to set up for my "real" kiln. Pricey indeed!
  6. Indeed, you're going to have to hire an electrician either way unless you already have a spare 25 amp dedicated circuit. If you are planning on buying a bigger kiln in the near future you don't want to have to pay an electrician twice (they're pricy!!). If you already have a 25 amp circuit then fire away You can always use lowfire earthenware until you're ready to buy your big cone 10 kiln, this kiln will be able to do fine with low fire.
  7. You have had your first lesson in kiln ownership. I would sell this kiln and go ahead and invest in the kiln you want and get your wiring done for it. They sell really well on Craigslist in the city I live in. Denice
  8. It won't harm the kiln to fire it to cone 6, it's just that you won't get very good element life from it. Usually we fire to cone 6 in kilns that are rated to cone 10 because the elements can wear more before the kiln can't reach cone 6. If you're firing to the max of the kiln, then you have to change the elements once they wear just a little bit.
  9. Thank you Neil, That is super helpful. Since I want to do cone 5/6 work, I assumed that kiln would be fine for starting out, and I never thought it would be that harmful to max it out every time I use it. I assumed it was designed for that! I don't know it's history and since I haven't plugged it in to look at the elements I'm not even sure if they are in top shape. That's definitely something to think about.
  10. The drawing is not accurate no matter what's going on with the wheel head. A bent shaft would not allow it to happen, either.
  11. If the prong was twisted 90 degrees, then he was trying to make it fit a 15 amp outlet instead of a 20 amp outlet, not 110 to 115 volts. 20 amp outlets have one prong turned perpendicular to the other so that you can't plug a 20 amp appliance into a 15 amp outlet, because that would overload the outlet. According to the Skutt website, that kiln pulls 20 amps, which means it should actually be on a 25 amp breaker, because code requires that kiln be on a breaker that is 25% greater than the draw of the kiln. I would also put a cord on it that is rated to 30 amps. Also, according to the Skutt website, that kiln can only go to cone 6, so it's not ideal for doing cone 5/6 work. You'll be maxing it out every time you fire it, and once the elements wear even a little bit it won't get to temp.
  12. I'm moving from a community studio to a studio in my garage and I'm planning on purchasing a large kiln, however I bought a small used Skutt 614 (it's tiny) off craigslist so that I could gain some experience with kilns before making the leap to an expensive larger kiln. My problem - once I got this used little Skutt home I see that the previous owner had twisted one of the electric prongs on the plugs to make it a 110v. Tt looks like the plug is compatible with 115v.) It appears that they twisted one of the prongs 90 degrees. I've been speaking to electricians about rewiring this little kiln, but I'm wondering if I could just twist the prong back to the original 115v position and then use a proper adapter from the hardware store rather than replacing the full plug/cord. Another option is to not bother and cut my loses. The kiln cost me $100, and ultimately will be too small for what I need. But it appears to be in good shape visually otherwise. I have not plugged it in. thanks in advance! Karen
  13. Hi, i do not have an acces to a kiln, would anyone be able to tell me if there are types of self drying clay that is durable and where can i buy it online if possible?
  14. Good question! ...however, regarding published ratings, per Neil: "The horsepower rating doesn't mean much. The 1/4hp Soldner can center as much as a Skutt 1/3hp, which can center as much as a Brent 1hp. The controller and pedal have a lot to do with how the power is put to use, as well as the type of motor." Most modern one horsepower wheels will have lots of twist - not, however, the same twist!
  15. It should have a wattage rating on the motor, can ballpark the HP from there
  16. Still wonder what HP the motor is, there is no label on it. Would be nice to know so I could compare or know that the next wheel has a larger motor. Guess I would just go with a 1hp model of wheel
  17. Hi Simon, If the wheel runs in one direction only, the head could be threaded in the opposite direction (use tightens). Are "Ratcliffe" and "Wenger" associated? Try contacting Potterycrafts? They carry a few wheels that look (kinda) like a Wenger - Cowley, Alsager, Staffordshire... Excerpted from https://www.potterycrafts.co.uk "Potterycrafts was formed in 1983 with the merger of the craft supplies businesses of three industrial companies Podmore, Wenger and Harrison Mayer following their purchase by Cookson plc. Potterycrafts became an independent company in 1988..."
  18. The drawing is wrong because if you pull strait vertical your pot would have tapered sides . That drawing does not represent a spinning wheel. If the wheel head or shaft was bent then the drawing would be accurate.
  19. The longevity of a fan varies greatly depending on environmental conditions. Saying it will last for X number of years is impossible, but it should last for at least several years. However now that you've done all the hard work, replacing it in the future will be much quicker. When venting heat and fumes from a room, it's all about how quickly/often the air in the room is changed. When sizing a fan, HVAC folks do calculations to size the fan to the both the size of the room and the amount of heat given off by the kiln. There are standards that they shoot for in their calculations. Your system may work very well for your situation, but a 185CFM fan may be terribly undersized for someone with a larger room or a larger kiln. Just as a point of reference, Vent-A-Kiln hoods use a 265CFM fan on hoods for 23" wide kilns.
  20. I came across this thread because I have an old Ratcliffe wheel which needs new bearings, but I cannot get the wheelhead off. Does anyone know how it fixed - screw thread (which direction?) or taper? Any advice gratefully received! Thanks Simon
  21. Thanks for the replies I think I can get access to a kiln. In that case would this not be so complicated to solve? I believe they were done at a printing place.
  22. I have never leveled a wheel in my 45 plus years. I do make sure its not rocking -my old studio floor was way out of leverl and I made 35 years worth of production on that floor with an unlevel wheel. Not sure whats all the level fuzz is about?
  23. Longer duct, smaller diameter, and rougher duct will all decrease the airflow. Good that you are doing something and the something is significant. When we design this stuff we use real numbers and real velocities to capture as many small particles as possible. Use your mask, I guarantee you are not capturing all your dust. However this is all positive and the only thing I would add is to ensure there is a source of makeup air from out doors. No use accidentally pulling furnace fumes back down the flue into your workspace because it’s your easiest source of makeup air. All these things can be calculated and actually are quite simple really but most often too much for typical potters. Maybe I will create some decent tables for folks to work from. Anything is better than nothing and you have put reasonable thought into this so all good. Would we consider it adequate for sanding without a mask, no we would not. here is a quick video of how we go about creating a simplified designing. Some of this stuff you might find interesting. Nice video BTW!
  24. That's true, my wheel was not running true because it was out of level, the way the pedal is connected to the motor (cone) that hits the ring is bizarre and fascinating but is held in place by two small Allen screws. If your rk2 is off level the pedal will shift on one side over time and the cone will be hitting the ring at an angle. Levelling the rk2 and moving the tension bar to straight fixed that permanently. My three legger has been out of level from day one and I've never had a problem. Belt drive will work at any angle, have even seen a video of someone throwing on a hubcap
  25. We analyzed and built something simple. Part of the essential point of the design was to keep the blower cool so it lasted because we noticed folks just adding bigger and bigger blowers without sufficient bypass air. The goal in the video was to introduce the concept of bypass or room air mixed with a very small amount of kiln air. I think the design stacks up as well or better and includes some above kiln ventilation. For two kilns for about 250 bucks using all decent parts and should have a high use studio life of five to ten years or more. take a look: see what you think
  26. Yeah, especially flexible ducting slows the air down a lot, and an axial fan is high speed, low pressure so the longer the duct that is attached (and the more turns it has to make), the weaker it blows (sometimes to the point of stalling). Centrifugal fans are high pressure, low speed and are built for moving air through a duct, so while they still lose power over distance, it's far less than an axial fan. So for something like a dust collector (an actual one) or a vacuum, or anything where suction is the primary use, a centrifugal fan is the fan of choice. You just having an open elbow on it is fine and dandy, but if you put a 10 foot section of flexible ducting on it and put it down to your kiln, your 180cfm fan may now only be operating at 50cfm
  27. I've vented my kiln in similar ways before. Does anyone have issue with longevity of the fan? I had one before that ceased pretty early on in its life. Since then I've just moved towards a large a powerful window fan vent near by the kiln. It sucks 180CFM which is more than powerful enough to grab the heat and fume from the kiln. I don't have a picture. I've made a detailed build video here. Just trying to share a crazier unorthodox idea. It was much cheaper than your typical vent a kiln system. Thoughts?
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