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  2. Should fire fine , if decide too delicate for planter, could use it to hold a plant pot, or use as wastepaper bin....
  3. Also, packing student work is a 3 dimensional chess game,trying to fit different sized items to get best use of space, AND checking bottoms are clean....takes more time than usual stuff. It will be worth waiting for. In the mean time. Make more pots!!! Even if you squish them up, won't be time wasted. When you get your own kiln that darned thing will take years to cool some days!!!!
  4. Yeah, I'm still on the free tier (and try hard to stay there), so maybe it can only be done with paid accounts.
  5. Today
  6. Yet on the bottle you photographed the glaze is for c06 to c05 just over 1000degC. Your clay body only bisqued at that point ... So you need: Clay and glaze maturing around c 06 to 05, the lower the cone number preceded by an 0 the higher the temp and the opposite with no preceding zero...are you still with me???? Or you fire to c10, why would you? May need a different kiln, very expensive firing. Or clay body and glaze maturing at the same temp , whatever you choose. And you thought it was a simple pinhole issue... Can be if you are making them just for yourself and you don't mind a bit of porosity, and shorter life of pots, dont leave them on auntie's french polished grand piano with a latte in them....
  7. I’ve belonged to 3 different studios, 2 in NY, one in LA, 4-5 weeks was normal for people coming in for lessons. As members sometimes it is quicker, but not always. During holiday season even slower than 5 weeks because so many people are making gifts. Answering an email in 4 hours, is normal or quick. If it was past 3 days that might be a bit much.
  8. This is it- it’s not finished/smoothed out just yet!
  9. Hi! I am trying to make a large planter. Spent hours on it only now I think the walls are much too thin and that it will break. Is there any way to make it thicker so I can save it? I could roll more slabs and attach to the outside but will it get air bubbles? Should I let it get leather hard and cover it in slip for additional strength? Are all of these ideas just super complicated and better to entirely start over? Thank you so much in advance. The walls are about 1/4 thick and the planter is about 20 inches high and 14 inches wide.
  10. sorry if i am butting in but what i see is that Gal Levy needs a cone chart. and someone emphasize the difference between numbers starting with 0 and those that do not. hundreds of degrees difference. read the large type post (orton 08-7) cone.
  11. Local clay supplier got some Ardvark Nar porcelian by mistake

    I'm trying a box out-Throws like Daves  Porc-throws better than Babo porc-not sure how white yet it will be.

  12. It seems there is/was an option to do this. https://mailchimp.com/help/delete-campaigns-from-your-account/ maybe in either the paid version or in the past?
  13. This statement is about the glaze. The concern you have is that your clay body being cone 10 will not be mature enough at that temp/ heatwork done to hold liquid. Also may introduce probs re getting a cone 5 glaze to fit the body. Most folk have gone to higher cone and temp for bisquing for a number of reasons. I fire to 1000dgc with a 10 minute soak because I tumble stack my kiln and want to equalise the temp throughout. Unless you have purchased a heap of that clay , go for a midfire clay body. Sculptural stuff you could get away with,if sculptures for indoors. Outside, portIus clay freezes water expands within....you know the rest. Keep at it.
  14. Yesterday
  15. Seems tyvek in Aus.aldo found tyvek waterproof paper used for printing posyers and graphics.the expensive alternative. Time to hit my son in law builder for an off cut or two...xmas is coming , could put in a request. What are you'all making for Xmas
  16. I have a kiln that I haven't for about 12 years. There is an orange button on the front that lights up when pushed in. I cannot find what it is in the manual. Does anyone know?
  17. Before you shop online, check and see if your country has any ecological controls they want to have observed. Wooden products sometimes have issues going from one country to another. My husband has a fun story about the time he had to try and ship humidors to Hawaii for someone’s golf retreat. edited to add: If that’s the case, you might take the design to a carpenter friend.
  18. I have also been using mylar sheets on a Cricut. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089W3Q5X4/?coliid=I3FTUFDEJF3F8G&colid=JTV78ROEQ2AV&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 These are 12"x24" but they also sell 12"x12". Tyvek is easier to cut by hand but mylar can also be cut by hand and pretty easily if you use something like a wood burning tool or even a soldering iron.
  19. ,) Try searching "hardwood taper" "hardwood round taper bun foot" "waddell bun foot" e.g. $12, below Less than eight dollars, below 4x2.6 inches The top one is 4x2.5 inches
  20. The big issue here is that pit firing does not get hot enough to melt glazes or vitrify clay, so you're going to have to decide if you want to pit fire or if you want to make vitrified pots. Natural ash glaze from the firing process glaze only occurs at high temps, like 1250C and above, which would require a proper wood burning kiln. However there are primitive versions of those kilns that you could build. You also need to figure out how hot your clay will fire. It may be that it'll melt long before you get to 1250C. Not all clay is the same. As a finished project or as a kiln for firing pots? It probably wouldn't work much better than a pit in terms of heat production. It could be a great project for your wild clay, though. Have you worked with clay and/or firing processes before? If this is your first time working with either, I strongly suggest finding some reading material and learn the basics of how clay works- firing temps, kiln types, etc. There's a certain amount of technical knowledge needed to be successful with clay, even with something that seems so simple like a pit firing.
  21. I've never made one - but looks like it could be done with just a hand-saw, some sandpaper, a drill and some water-resistant wood glue. Find a seasoned (well dried) log of suitable size - preferably a fine-grained wood that's less apt to split. Remove the bark and use the hand-saw to cut off one side & create the flat face. Sand everything smooth. Get a piece of dowel, or smaller tree branch of suitable size for the handle Drill a hole of appropriate size, apply some glue, and insert the handle
  22. I’ve been using Mailchimp for many years, and don’t recall seeing an option to delete an old campaign. Not sure why you would need to? Maybe they can be deleted if they haven’t been sent out yet?
  23. I am not sure what is really happening here, but it sounds now as if this clay is possibly over fired and slumping which for cone 10 clay would be very odd fired to cone 5. So I strongly suggest to post a picture of the folded ware so folks can see what this really is. I also strongly suggest you post how the test was conducted but expressed in the cone you bisqued to as well as the cone you glaze fired to. My feeling is it’s really, really, really important that you understand the basics of how and when things are mature and the function of cones to successfully diagnose what is happening and to avoid all types of fit issues in the future. Knowing how to schedule a bisque firing or glaze firing is useful but you will be far more likely to be successful once you learn a bit more about the basics of ceramics. Creating a bisque schedule is easy, usually 9 - 12 hours to burn out most organics, so pick a speed that will take that long ( about 75 - 100c per hour) and the last 100c of the firing go 60c per hour to reach your desired cone ( generally cone 04-06) from the cone chart. See, there is that cone thing again ………. I think knowing a bit about it will help a great deal in the future IMO.
  24. Check the firing temps and cones. should be on the labels
  25. Hi, Im hoping to get some advice on what to do with the wild clay i recently found on the farm. I have no idea what im doing but i want to pitfire what i make and i want to find a way to make and glaze my work naturally ie single fire, natural vitrification processes, using ash and animal dung etc. The stuff doesnt have to be food safe or completely finished. The clay is pretty good, fairly plastic, slakes fairly fast. No fizzing. Not all that structural but thats ok. Small particles, dries way too quickly. Ill be using a lot of pine so the temp will spike early but im sure there are ways around that. Any advice welcome. Someone suggested mixing 10% cement, straw and my clay to make a chiminea. How does that sound?
  26. Hi @neilestrick Thank you for your input. Thank you for mentioning the color of the bricks - i think you are right this is a great deal knowing that they start around 1.6k lol Great, question on ventilation. I am thinking of putting it in the basement in this room where there is no carpet and close to the washing machines..or in the garage. My father has worked with making ventilation systems, and he is open to try to make one for the kiln, as we do not want the harmful dust in our homes. I will continue to research and see if it's better to leave it in the basement or in the garage. And you are right, it is limiting! I am thinking of using this one for small things to give away or sell, and go into the studio for the bigger projects that are occasional haha! And sorry if I worded this wrong - I didn't mean to say they are chipped lightly. Rather 2 of the bricks in the kiln have cracked and you can see the coils (reference photo attached)- hoping that's not a problem? Again thank you for your response to my post
  27. Looks like it's in great condition. The brick color is still quite white, which means it hasn't been fired all that much. They start to yellow as they age from use. The chips in the brick are not a problem at all because they are above the coils. $375 seems like a fair price in today's market, but it never hurts to haggle. Offer $300 and see what happens! The Sitter is rated for 50 amps, but the kiln probably pulls around 24 amps. Kilns need a breaker that is 25 % greater than the draw of the kiln, so at 24 amps it will need to run on a circuit with a 30 amp breaker. If it pulls above 24 amps then you'll need a 40 amp circuit. 18" wide kilns can be pretty limiting on what you can fire. The kiln shelves will be 15 1/2" wide, and by the time you put the posts in you've only got about 12" in width to work with for wide bowls and plates. It's a great size for mugs and small vases and such, though. Have you figured out where you'll put it, and how you'll vent it?
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