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  2. @neilestrickThank you for taking the time to explain the whole procedure Much appreciated and very kind And good to know eg . a sphere doesn’t need a hole as long as dried thru Ive been told otherwise Even a tiny hole spoils the aesthetic I will try hollowing out the piece to advised thickness Nicky
  3. It's a good idea to measure the resistance of the elements with a multi-meter, and compare that to what it should be for your kiln. You can get that info on the Paragon website, or call them and ask. Where did the kiln come from? Was it being used in a home or a school? You'll need 240 volt elements if you're using it in your home. Paragon may still have elements available, but it not you can get them from Euclids.com. The sitter says 240 volts because that's the max voltage it can handle. Anything under that is fine.
  4. You should really stay under 1.25cm, and even then you'll need to fire slowly. A hollow sphere does not need a hole. As long as it's totally dry you can fire something that is hollow and sealed. Moisture in the clay turning to steam is what causes explosions. When you put a piece in the kiln, even if it's bone dry it will have some moisture in it. You can't get a piece down to 0% moisture when it's sitting in a room that has 50% humidity. So that last bit of moisture has to be evaporated off before it turns to steam. In a thin piece this happens very easily. But in a thick piece it takes longer for the heat to penetrate, and the moisture has to travel farther to escape the piece, so you have to do a preheat to drive off the moisture at a temperature where it won't turn to steam, like 90C or 200F. In a hollow but sealed piece, it takes a really long time for the piece to totally dry on the inside. An air hole helps the moisture to escape, but it's not necessary if you do a preheat for a few hours after letting the piece dry for a long time. Without a hole, the just the expansion of the air inside the piece is not enough to blow it up- it's always from water within the walls turning to steam that causes explosions. In your 6-8cm thick piece, you've also got the issue of expansion and contraction during the firing process, where the outside of the piece is going to heat and cool much faster than the center of the mass, which will cause warping and/or cracking unless you were to fire both up and down extremely slowly. It would probably require a firing that took a couple of days or more.
  5. @oldladyI was hoping to make a small statue with some cuts ( but they don’t go all the way thru )What would be thickest option in your opinion ?
  6. Today
  7. dp not do it is the reasonable answer. how do you imagine the center has, or will have, dried when it is fired? of course it will explode. what is it supposed to be? why would you do this?
  8. Hi ........ Am wondering If I could fire a solid piece of square porcelain (10 cm x 10 cm ) Thickness approx 6-8 cm .Or will it break / explode ? As I know a hollow sphere needs a breathing hole Thank you .Nicky
  9. If the piece is well glazed - on the inside - it shouldn't weep/leak. Is the glaze crazed (cracked)?
  10. She might have changed clay bodies and she would want to know this information. Yes, this is possible if the clay is not vitrified.
  11. The listing may have a typo; am finding "EA 820-4" documentation (also DA), not seeing any ES model. There should be an ID plate on the kiln, specifying volts, amps, phase, etc. A previous owner may have replaced the elements - to run in their environment - in which case the elements wouldn't match the ID plate spec. Any chance you can verify the voltage where the kiln is coming from? If the elements are worn - that is, if you are going to replace them anyway - just be sure to order the proper elements for your environment. Perhaps one of the electrically expert forum members will corroborate... The sitter is a third party bit (is it a Dawson? not made by Duncan), likely rated for 50 amps. The Dawson 50 amp sitter is very common. The ID plate is the thing to look at. Note the max temp rating; if you are planning to fire cone 5/6, a cone 6 rated kiln will struggle to reach max temp once the elements begin to wear.
  12. So, under firing of the clay in the first firing, even cone 5-6, and glazed, it could still weep through the clay and through the glass? Thank you so much for your for reply. I am returning it to her today. She's a good Potter, I've watched her. No other mug I've bought from her has had this problem and I had never heard of it before. Thanks again
  13. Looking for help and some explanation. I have the opportunity to buy a Duncan The Teacher model ES 820-4. I am very new to ceramics and need all the help I can get. I found what I believe is the manual for this kiln although the model number says “DA 820-4” instead of “ES”. It also says that the voltage is 208. We have 240 and were planning on wiring it’s own box but how can I make the 208 work? I’m also confused because in the photo of the kiln, the kiln sitter says 240v. How can the kiln be 208 and the sitter 240? I’m very confused and would appreciate any and all help.
  14. I just used soft brick under the floor level of brick. The rest is hard brick
  15. Its a bar to sand your feet callous off in the shower-Could be a hit at the super markets Maybe a little more R&D as it does not look rough enough
  16. The clay is under-fired, so it's not vitrified/still porous and allowing the tea to seep through. If you know who made it, I would contact them and ask for a replacement or refund. Chances are everything they make is from that same clay body, so they'll all have the same problem.
  17. It's weeping, meaning that liquid is passing through the clay. That stickiness is some of the tea and sugar or milk or whatever you put in your tea slowly seeping out
  18. I bought a beautiful mug and a few weeks later, it would develop a sandy feeling all over the mug about 10 -15 minutes after pouring boiling water into it for tea. About a week later I noticed the sandy feeling was sticky, as if the honey in the tea was leaking through. What causes this odd thing?
  19. I bought a beautiful mug and a few weeks later, it would develop a sandy feeling all over the mug about 10 -15 minutes after pouring boiling water into it for tea. About a week later I noticed the sandy feeling was sticky, as if the honey in the tea was leaking through. What causes this odd thing?
  20. Yesterday
  21. Best to keep the dust down in the room by mopping and sponging. You don't want the dust sucked into the furnace cold air returns and blown around the house. Also keep a pair of shoes that you only wear in the studio- take them off before leaving the room. But if you want to cover the door gap, just get a sweep and attach it. No need to buy a new door.
  22. From what I'm seeing on the Cress web site, this is a manual kiln, correct? Are you referring to the 3 prongs that go into the sitter tube? Those are what hold the cone. The two flat bars go under the cone, the middle rod goes on top of the cone. On the outside of the kiln, you raise up the weight/flap on the sitter, lower the claw (which raises the rod inside), then put the cone in on the inside. When the cone bends due to heat work, the rod goes down on the inside, up on the outside, releasing the weight and shutting off the kiln. HERE is a good video to watch.
  23. I’m considering buying a used Cress FX 911M. I need help understanding what the three prongs sticking into the kiln are? Three thermocouples? Doesn’t make sense.
  24. Cheapo 5 gallon bucket dental plaster trap works a charm. For dust, just clean up after you're done, try not to splash clay everywhere.
  25. I'm not talking about installing a dust collection system, I wasn't that prolific even when I was a lot younger. But my "studio" is basically the third bedroom in my house which has a typical hollow core door with about an inch gap under it and its RIGHT off the kitchen. So. I want to corral the dust. Is there a way to do that with the existing door? And if so how... or should I just get a cheap exterior door installed there with the sweep? I had hoped to be out of here by this time but between pandemics and exploding bathrooms I am stuck where I am for the nonce and must make the best of things. I've been waiting for decades to set up my own studio and if I wait much longer, they'll have to set it up in my coffin, LOL! Another question - do I have to buy the filtering thingy for my utility tub drain from a ceramics place or would just any old dental-type filtering thingy supplied by my plumber be fine? Or what should I look for in that regard? PS - rolling up a towel and stuffing it under the door or something won't work. I WILL forget. Whatever the dust-corralling method, it should not require post-installation intervention (other than normal cleaning) on my part.
  26. I thankfully did not need loans to get through our 11 week shutdown, however I did qualify for unemployment, which paid my bills at my shop and put a small amount in my pocket. I don't have any employees, so I would have had to pay back a PPP loan. Last year was a good year so I had enough cash on hand to get through the shutdown before unemployment finally came through.
  27. #5 welding goggles work very well. If you go darker than that it can make it difficult to see the cones at lower temps.
  28. Thanks for the detail. Just what I needed to Know
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