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  5. Searching for used equipment to start a home clay studio in Minnesota. I'd like to get the sink and other hand-building supplies within Minnesota but am willing to travel out of state for a good manual slab roller (without shims that is at least 24 inches).
  6. Is there a best glaze for planters? I know at Lowes terra cotta is the go-to for planters, but I just have white mid-fire clay. Should I glaze the inside at all? Advice por favor! Thanks, <sheryl>
  7. Thank you for this well thought out response. It is helpful going forward to know what to look for and be aware of. -Sheryl
  8. I believe it's a federal felony in the United States to even insinuate something being native american if you are not a member of a tribe. So keeping that in mind, I would definitely avoid making any specific references to tribes or natives. Even if you are a member of a tribe, the council may not feel your work represents the tribe, etc etc. But I assume you have cleared this already, so onto the next few things. Social media arbitrations should have no bearing on your business name. Social media has changed many times over in just the past 5 years, and can change even faster g
  9. My name is Lee and I assure you way too many people insist on calling me Leah--even after correction. I also get addressed as Mr. and am assumed to be a man (I am not!) My last name is too long & some find it hard to pronounce (Ustinich) so I use Lee U as my biz identity. I have to say I don't see why you would falsify your name (change the spelling) just to accommodate people who might mispronounce your name-the heck with 'em. In terms of specializing in Native American Pottery, that is not something to squeeze into business name--I'd keep it short, visually engaging (typeface/logo
  10. Yeah---do that!!! (Why didn't I think of that?)
  11. For questions 1 and 2, I want way more background before stepping into that as a non-First Nations person. I notice you say “the tribe” rather than “my tribe.” What are the concerns you have about wanting or not wanting a specific name attached to your work? Why are you asking those questions in this space, rather than discussing it with the Elders? What are your ties to this work? 3:The smallest name character limits on the most common social media platform belongs to Snapchat at 15, and Reddit at 20. To my knowledge, there isn’t a significant pottery community on Snapchat (too impermane
  12. I remade a glaze that is pretty different from the original glaze when I first started making glazes, it is the glaze that I use on all my work. It pretty much is completely different in chemicals, however I still credit the original creator by leaving some parts of the name in the glaze. The original glaze was called Folk Art White. I call my version Folk Fireborn White. I feel like there is nothing wrong with giving credit where credit is due, and it isn't like we are selling glaze anyways so its nice to remember the people who gave us a place to start.
  13. My business started as a place name -that place is still the same 45+ years later. In terms of using your names or parts of them-I do not think that matters at all. I have friends who morphed their two last names for the business name. You 1st or middle or last or any shortened version does not matter. The word tribal/native does put you in a catagory that will forever be that category .So that is thought . I would think Lea is Leah In terms of catchy names I would not overthink this and stick to simple I work in Porcelain now (30 years) but I used to work in st
  14. One of my favorite recipes is taken from John Brit's high fire book. It has gone through at least 6 versions over the last 4 years. The only thing that remains iirc is the amount of calcium. Despite extensively reworking the glaze to suit my liking I will continue to credit the source. Someone let me carry on the work and it feels right to admit as much, no matter how distant the outcome.
  15. Hello.....I'm new to this site & I know this has been a topic discussed in past posts but I have a few specific questions & I need some feedback. 1) My business specializes in Native American Pottery so is it best to incorporate words like Native or Tribal in the official business name? 2) I dont think it's a great idea to use the name of the tribe as I feel it will only draw interest for that specific tribe but I could be wrong, any thoughts? 3) I feel sticking below a 12 characters in the name is important as a few popular social media sites have a character limit
  16. I use newspaper. It's thinner than printer paper but still keeps the shape, is cheap, and is flexible when wet so is very easy to peel off. Do it while the pot is still wet and the rim can stick to the newspaper. Clear off any extra slip on the rim and then gently lay the paper on top. Make sure to get contact all the way around the rim by very gently running your finger along the rim (you'll see where it is sticking) . Move the pot off the wheel onto your ware board and then gently peel off the paper. You may have to smooth the rim a bit if it looks rough, but it will be perfectly roun
  17. To me, the difference between a casual potter and a studio potter is the studio. A casual potter may not have a complete investment. I know a few potters that outsource their firings. A casual potter can be quite complete with just a bag of clay and some off the shelf glazes or even just one iron wash. It's a fine hobby with almost no investment at that point. A studio potter most likely reinvests his sales in facilities and equipment for quite a long time and so has a large degree of versatility. At that point, is freedom to make whatever comes to mind. Creativity is the push. Not to
  18. I think it's a surfactant from the float separation process where the ore is ground and then put into large water tanks that bubble air through the ore to cause contaminants to foam at the top which is then scooped off. It's strange though, because this refining technique is used on a lot of the materials we use, the spodumene and lithium just seem to hold onto it really well.
  19. The processing of the spodumene ore involves using soap as a lubricant in the grinding machines, which leaves a residue on the powdered material. This will cause your glaze slurry to be foamy as you mix it. You can wash it to rinse out the soap and let it dry before using it in your glaze recipe. Or, as I do, calcine it to 8-900℉/450-475℃ to burn off the soap.
  20. One of the many reasons I don't like plastic bats. I throw on masonite and it just pops off when the object is leather hard. If I have to pull off the wheelhead I dry my hands real well, make sure the pot has all the slip scraped off, and just cut and lift with dry hands. Sometimes they go out of round a little and I kinda give the wareboard a little shake to try to settle it back into round.
  21. I have noticed timing is everything! Until now I have been a part of a studio and so I had different habits that lent itself to better timing- for example, I set a piece aside after throwing it and let it dry for a bit without being wrapped. In my own studio I can come and go with more frequency so I end up wrapping my pieces earlier. I do wire twice, once right after I throw and once when I am trying to lift the piece from the bat. I have been using cups, bottle, etc to try to restore the shape. I had no idea this tapering tool existed! Will have to try that too.
  22. I know this is an older thread, but I'm going to post now in case others see it later on. I had the exact same problems you did with plaster sticking to the molding surface (urethane rubber, silicone rubber, polyurethane resin, plaster, didn't matter) and breaking off in chunks. What I didn't see mentioned above, is what did the trick for me. Make sure your water you're mixing your plaster in is cold. The colder the better. I'm on mountain well water and it's downright biting when it comes out of the sink. This has solved everything. I use the Murphy's too, though I want to try the mold lu
  23. miriam, this is a skill you will learn once you start using less water. everything said so far should help you figure out how to do this. the most important thing is having dry hands and to lift as low as possible. keep a towel hanging nearby. i have not wired a pot since the 1970s when i started using Duron bats. i remember pot lifters being useless. fingers work better and you can control them easier. good luck and remember you are learning a skill, not making a pot.
  24. With anything on bats, I don’t bother with a wire at least until the shine has come off the pot. Usually I don’t cut them off until rims are stiff enough to support the pot when they’re flipped. If you cut them off and leave them in place when they’re wet, they’ll just reattach themselves. I lift pots off the wheel head usually only when the height is more than the width, and the base is relatively narrow. Mostly with small jars or mugs or similar items. When lifting, take all the slip off the pot with a rib, wipe your hands clean and dry, and lift gently from the base. Ribbing compresses
  25. I haven't- at what stage do you do this? Do I just use a regular piece of printer paper?
  26. Hi Luca! Have read about washing spodumene to remove some of the "soap" that causes bubbling in the glaze. Tony Hansen discusses decrepitation and washing in the links below. Perhaps someone with direct experience will chime in. I'm using petalite to add some lithium to my lowest expansion clear glaze. It's working well for me; there are some small gray flecks here and there, which may be from the petalite (I'm also using Zircopax in that glaze) - I don't mind them at all. Colemanite Colemanite (digitalfire.com) Spodumene Spodumene (digitalfire.com) Petalite Petalite
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