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terrim8

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About terrim8

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    oh oh

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    https://www.instagram.com/ceramicfixtures

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  • Location
    Calgary

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  1. Gary forces the migration with some sort of solution. Your work looks so nice! I like the low temp part too
  2. I have a bunch of clay disks drying between planks right now. I can use kiln wash too, right?(never heard of alumina wax- is it alumina hydrate and cold wax?)
  3. Anything else? Such as use the same type of clay or any other tips???
  4. Hopefully if they're on the flat waster, on a flat shelf, it won't warp!
  5. Thanks! That's what I wanted to hear- the voice of experience!!!
  6. Hi, I want to fire a bowl on its rim and not get any distortion - is using a waster how this is done?
  7. Are the dark haloes on some of the pots (esp.the green at the bottom) produced in a similar manner as the high temperature haloes on Gary Holt's work with southern ice?
  8. I have Arne's book too and I've visited Gary Holt in Berkeley to see his beautiful high temp work on southern ice. But I'm interested in the low T work too. Gary didn't toss anything down the drain- when I was there he advised me to wear protective clothing, mask & goggles & gloves..... and work in a ventilated area and make very, very small amounts solutions - only what you would use up on your project. The problem for me is getting the ingredients - a few are somewhat easy to obtain but in Canada most are too difficult to get unless you are a commercial lab. So far I've made a few things with polar ice at cone 6 but the lower T processes seem really interesting - you'll have to post results! Any skiers on the hill yet? I've started an exercise program to get these old bones moving for winter!
  9. Thanks for the ideas! I'm trying it again with a new big mold.
  10. Hi all! I am slip casting a large one piece item. It is drying pretty slowly. Is it best to dry it upside down on some sticks to prop it up for air circulation or just leave it right side up?
  11. drying a large slip cast item - still in the plaster form- is it better to leave it upside down to drop out or will it dry faster right side up?

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. terrim8

      terrim8

      It seems to dry/absorb so slow- its still in there! It was the right SG too so I'll keep it right side up . I may have complicated it all by having a paper-plaster mix behind the solid wall.

    3. JohnnyK

      JohnnyK

      Can you send some pix?

    4. terrim8

      terrim8

      with the next try-  decided to start again- back to the model to remove any imperfections so it will be totally smooth & then I'll insure its a smooth one-shot pour for the plaster.

       

  12. Sure those are commercial glazes? Everything looks matte and the pigments are so concentrated- looks like sprayed over resists many times - I like it! Looks like I have to make more test tiles and try some undergazes- over glazes
  13. I use a tile sealer on some of my raku work- it dries invisibly.
  14. I was working with cotton linters & Polar Ice last year and left some cotton linters mush in a bucket. It's still wet, mushy & white - no smell. Wonder if there's preservative in it?
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