oldlady

was the running on a vertical meeting spot or horizontal? which ran to which? sounds as though your coyote glazes are not the kind in pint bottles but a powder mix, right? i have a recipe for a glorious shiny white glaze that i use stroke & coat over quite often. no problems at all on my clay. see my albums for photos. sorry, cannot find the photos i want in my albums. lost lots of photos through stupidity with computers. anyhow, do you mix your own glazes? if so, do you want the recipe for white?

younghoon. sometimes it is easier to sell something unusual rather than trying to give it away. if you still have it after a few days, mark it $25 and see what happens. have you listed it on craigslist?

wonderful suggestion! i work with many models for texture with bisqued raku clay so it is just right at cone 06. thank you, callie.

lots of ideas, thanks, guys. busy getting ready for a show on mothers' day weekend and enjoying my first spring here in 14 years. wow, daffodils multiply in that time! planting roses today. your suggestions are very helpful, it seems plaster might be best. hmmmm... wonder how a round bat that is taller than the one that it fits into might work? like my 5 inch square inserts do. will visit joan gardiner about some details and let you know what happens.

why do you wedge clay of any kind straight out of the bag? a machine much stronger than you has pressed out the air and excess water. your wedging on a plaster surface removes more water and leads to cracks. try a different porcelain as liam suggests.

bjoern, sorry that i did not find this sooner. i have mixed many colors of slip and have tests to show the fired results, cone 6, in an album found under my avatar. it is the last one on page 1 under albums. i just looked at it and se that the last photo of the pink stains has somehow become dark so you can hardly see the colors. will get the test tiles and info again and send them here, (if i can make the photos small enough).

both, neil. i would like to try slabs that have impressed gingko leaves. if i can put a ring of clay into the groove so it will stick to the bottom of the slab, i can lift the edges easily enough for a rim. if i throw one, i can avoid trimming. lifting the rim is easy. i got the recipe used in making plaster tile molds from a friend, joan gardiner in unison, va that includes hydrocal which makes them stronger and they last a long time.

looking for a material to use as a bat having a groove included in the design. can use any material but i think plaster is not my first choice. plaster with that hardening ingredient is possible but i would rather use a wood or wood-like thick material. a local woodworker could rout the groove where i want it for two or more size plates. i know some of you work with other materials, got any suggestions?

great news. if you can use Paint on your computer, you can size the photos to fit. choose 600 horizontal and it will make the vertical to fit.

sorry the info i gave was not helpful.

benzine, in august, 2010, greg patton, thrower and his brother joel were experimenting with a tobacco spit glaze and were willing to share with those interested in it. since then, greg has moved to greenville, sc and has a new studio there. phone 864 525-0958. i found an example of the face jugs he made in the previous location, travelers rest sc but the note on pinterest admits it was not done the usual way. doesn't look anything like the lanier meaders face jug you can see on antiques roadshow. i also found a photo of a glaze called tobacco spit by entering "tobacco spit glaze re

congrats on the super buy and welcome to the forum. did it come with extras like shelves and posts? there are lots of skutt users here and you will get good advice.

since you posted this for potters new to the process and english is an imprecise language, may i point out that the oxides are used on top BEFORE the glaze is fired. believe me, we have had some questions over the years that indicate a complete lack of knowledge of any language.

thanks, neil, i will remove one of the screws used last time and get one no longer but thicker in stainless.

while waiting to open the kiln, look for " cones and heatwork related to temperature" somewhere. you may have fired the work to the exact amount of heat it needed.