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  • Location
    Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Interests
    Wood firing

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  1. To keep the buttery look and feel increase both dolomite and talc in your adjustments. That adjustment is up to youhow you do it in order to keep the glaze stable. Crackle is indicative of a non-stable glaze but often a great addition to your glaze palate
  2. The whirring sound seems to be the results of the brushes contacting the commutator in an uneven manner. cleaning the comutator might help in this instance with the whirring noise especially if the commutator is slightly out of round..
  3. Are you placing your bat DIRECTLY on the wheelhead? They do wobble when you do that. Try this.... at 12 o'clock 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock put three small balls of clay right at the rim of the wheelhead. Then press your bat down over the pins. The clay acts like flat shims taking up the uneven spaces between the bat and the wheelhead. Occasionally i add more clay between the others up to six on the wheelhead for an even more wobbleless bat. Dont just react to the symptoms of the bat but be proactive of the actual cause of the bat wobble. THEN throw your bowl and gently place a knife between the bat and wheelhead and give a slight but gentle twist to release the bat. Voila! take that wobbily bat!
  4. You have adobe. Add straw and a little asplalt emulsion and you have stabilized adobe used in kiva fireplaces here.
  5. A talc would work. Most of the tiles produced by Daltile are talc based and pressed with tons of force into moulds. They stay together quite well and with little firing should remain carbon free and soft as soapstone which BTW is where talc comes from.
  6. You might try a binder to hold the clays together but something that will not be so hard that it wont mark. Cmc gum comes to mind . Or you could just use pressure to bind the clay such as how they make talc tile with minimal moisture and is just held together by pressure alone.. similar to a pill manufacturing press. I kno they use these machines for candy also.. just have a mold in the form of your chalk stick and press.
  7. Id say its Chrome. sometimes it will blister. Iron in a reduction atmosphere will also make green. I dont suspect iron.
  8. Overfiring causes the clay body to bloat. If you have not burned out all the organic material in the bisque this will also rear its ugly head in the glaze firing as bloating. .nothing can remedy the bloating in the glaze firing if you havent burned out all the organics in the bisque. You can however fire to correct temp of clay and the reduce temp a bit and hold. This will give time for the bubbles in the glaze to pop and heal over while allowing the clay body to mature and finish offgassing. The amount of time is variable but its just a timing issue.... is the body finished offgassing?.. is the glaze fluid enough to heal? Is the glaze fluid enough at the lower temp to heal over? All hard questions that take time and experimenting to figure out. OR you can dump the black clay and get a more suitable clay body for what youre doing. My 2 cents.
  9. I still make my own clay body. I rarely wedge anymore. I figure thats what a pugmill is for. Giffin grip is used on almost every piece made.
  10. If you want straight up mica for mixing into your own clay, New Mexico Clay sells it in 3 grades. Its in their clay materials section.
  11. I have to say I wedged clay for 30 + years and the day I bought a small pugmill was in the top 10 of good things Ive done... maybe even top 5! I know its probably too late for this batch but I would HIGHLY recommend saving your pennies for even the most basic of pugmills.
  12. A mica clay would fit the bill. Its been used here for centuries for cooking
  13. Lots and lots and lots of brick for kiln along with all other accessories required to use kiln, and second the pugmill.. oh and the Bugatti Veyron to go pick up supplies really really fast.
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