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Russ

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  • Location
    Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Interests
    Wood firing

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  1. Lots and lots and lots of brick for kiln along with all other accessories required to use kiln, and second the pugmill.. oh and the Bugatti Veyron to go pick up supplies really really fast.
  2. Hardibacker is now .40 inch. It used to be 1/2inch back in the day. .40in is approx 7/16in. if you want dust free raggedy edged cuts score with a razor knife. I go outside and cut with a 4in diamond masonry blade on a grinder. Leaves a cleaner cut. I believe medex has been priced out of everyday range. Hopefully lumber prices will start to fall soon but 400 % average rise is ridiculous!
  3. So how large is the interior in cubic feet? Is it a Fred Olsen design? Does if have two fireboxes? Im of the school that the smaller the wood pieces are the faster it will get to temp. For me its because all my help is volunteer and dragging out a firing looses volunteers. Thats life. Ive just learned to adjust. there are places in my kiln that receive plenty of ash and those places are reserved for pieces that need it. Im surprised that you dont have more flashing. Flame is at the damper on mine around 04 meaning the entire chamber is flame. Can you see flame at the damper at any point in the firing?
  4. Hardwoods contain more btu's per pound but release it slower than softwoods. More heat depends not on the fuel but on the amount of oxygen introduced into the equation. You can "cool" a wood kiln by introducing too much fuel in relation to oxygen imput. My kiln is also a cross draft meaning the flame path doesnt have to make a 90degree turn left or right to the exit flue. From the mouth of the fireboxes thru the chamber and out the top of the chimney is a total of 45 feet. I have flame coming out 6ft above the chimney when introducing new wood but as it burns it shortens and becomes an "efficient "flame releasing its heat in the chamber where it belongs. This is with softwoods. since I dont fire with hardwoods i dont know how to correlate this to a hardwood firing.
  5. Also keep in mind that hard woods produce a much shorter flame than softwoods. Possibly less flame impingement with hardwoods leading to less flashing of the body.
  6. I use pieces to direct flame path along with the height between shelves and how tightly packed is very specific to each and every shelf especially at the front of the kiln. How I set the work on shelves determines whether the bottom back will be more even in temp to the top front ...so... what would that be? A bit of both?
  7. If youve found a clay body that will work well with your firing atmosphere youre half way there. I might add also that the type of wood and the amount of bark on that wood has a SIGNIFICANT difference in the outcome of the flashing and overall deposition of ash on your pieces. Heck even the shape of your work will determine the amount of ash deposition. The wood I use comes from one specific sawmill. 20 yrs ago he got a debarker. Immediately i saw way less ash deposition and more body flashing. I liked the outcome and found my glazes were alot cleaner ànd brighter yet the clay body showed more of the toasty marshmellow effect.
  8. Neither. . Im a dinosaur . Cone 10-12 wood fired reduction. Dont leave us high fire folks out!.... for me its the joy of firing with wood and the friends and family and food involved... Plus (I know Ill get lambasted here) there a big difference between low/mid fired ox and high fired wood reduction in both the body and glaze. For me its hands down high fire!
  9. I used it inside my brand new hardbrick kiln so I really dont know if there is a substantial amount of savings in time versus a non sprayed kiln. I assume its negligible as ive fired other untreated wood kilns and they fire about the same except for the forced air kilns which are way faster. I have been using the zircon based kilnwash HOPING it will speed up the process and last firing I THINK it it seemed to help... a bit, but with a hand fed man powered kiln there are so many factors that it would be impossible to tell. So I guess I could sum this up by saying "It makes me FEEL better that Ive coated the interior with zircon."
  10. Thats way too much scientific like for this hillbilly! Sorry Bill... The only way one could possibly tell would be two identical kilns fired side by side and i would assume the time factor would tell the differences. i started using it because Fritz told me it would keep the ash from sticking to the walls. Well.... that didnt work.
  11. Ive used itc 100 and i see absolutely no difference between it and the plainsman kiln wash formula. Both are basically zircon. I can make lots of the plainsman for a fraction of the cost of itc. My 2cents...
  12. Unfortunately im one of those cone 10 reduction guys as this is a 6 ox glaze. If i had the time to figure out an appropriate glaze i would but I use the cold process because it is the look im after and I DONT CARE WHAT PURIST CERAMIC DINGALINGS THINK!
  13. Actually i got the inspiration from a steam locomotive thats in a park here in Santa Fe. Quite an industrial revolution look with lots of screws and plates and straps... sorta like an oboe!
  14. Its a paint with ground up copper then sprayed with an acid that gives it a patina. I dont know of a similar process thatll handle cone 10. This is a lamp base that i sprayed with iron oxide and fired. Here is the process from left to right.. fired with iron oxide, copper paint then sprayed.
  15. How about this? We ARE the ceramic community. Ill throw up one of my cold finished pieces. Either you say yep its ok or you say no not cool. What say ye ceramic community?
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