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Russ

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Everything posted by Russ

  1. https://insight-live.com/insight/share.php?z=K5hHzDs2Kr Ive started using this last year. Its a zircon based wash. I dont think ill ever go back to the alumina hydrate/epk wash
  2. From the new mexico clay website. Brant Palley owner, did several tests on g200eu vs. Custer. Very noticeable difference.
  3. The G 200eu is the substitute for Custer. 1 to1... very close to being the same and g200eu has less impurities than custer
  4. What ever happened to using goood ol spit. Been joining together stuff for 40 years with a 99.9 success rate! A little spit and a twisting during the joining sure beats all this formula stuff.
  5. Flush is the technical term for "just make it even"
  6. https://www.calculator.net/volume-calculator.html This should help you
  7. They can be either bisqued or singlefire. I do a wood fired bisque.... yeah I know but I dont think they make a hobby sized kiln to fit all the stuf I have to make to fill my kiln. The only precaution would be to introduce plenty of air from about 011 on up to bisque temp. This greatly reduces the risk of bloating later during the glaze firing.
  8. If i remember correctly the inside is made first. Clay at the correct thickness is slumped over the mould. Then the outside mould is made. Its been about 20yrs since ive done this...
  9. I fire mine when i get it full. Takes me a month or so to fill it. I just did a bisque firing with around 450 pieces. I used around 550lbs of clay. Im not in a hurry like so many other people so i built a fairly large kiln
  10. There is a high density foam that only forms small bubbles. Dont go for the "big gap" filler foam. The bowl you want to use for the mould should be lined with a thin plastic and then pealed off the hump mould after its set. Where it contacts the plastic it should be bubble free UNLESS you sand or rasp the surface. Once the inside is complete cover the hump mould again with plastic and make the negative mould. using the set of moulds you can easily flip the bowl either way to work on the inside or outside.
  11. If your piece is glazed then perhaps a single edged razor blade could be used to remove the foam residues.
  12. You might try the thin plastic sheeting to line the inside of the bowl ........or if its greenware and youre finished with it and ready for bisque firing you could try a non stick food spray that would burn off quite quick. there are also several types of spray foam. Some that expand alot... some for windows that expand a lot less and some that cure very dense. Experiment for us to see what works the best. Ive used spray foam to build LARGE slump moulds three feet or approx 1 meter across. They work very well.
  13. If you want to "capture" to effects of the flame you should try a good carbon trap shino. If the kiln owner doesnt have a shino its quite easy and rather inexpensive to make. Some of the most beautiful oranges ive had at cone 10 came from this glaze.
  14. I used to use Portland cement as a glaze. It mimics a runny ash glaze at c10. Ive also experimented with andesite... a rock found in our arroyos that when crushed and a minute amount of gerstly borate is added created a wonderful gold orange glaze at c10 . Its fun to experiment.
  15. One possibility could be the clay body. I had this same thing happening and found out it was the Hawthorn fireclay that had an extraordinary amount of super fine silica because of where they were getting it in their mine. i completely changed my clay body formula so that no clay was more than 20% of the formula. Fast forward to testing... finished glaze fired pieces were placed in the freezer for 24hrs then removed and boiling water poured in..... zero cracks in all pieces.
  16. How about this: lay a piece of plastic in the bowl. Get a couple of cans of spray foam from home depot, lowes, walmart... fill the inside of the bowl and let it harden (might take overnight). Trim the excess foam flat with a bread knife. You now have a reverse slump mould. should be much easier to flip the bowl with the inside support... or outside? Whichever it is.
  17. TS all the way. I have the TS Pro... So much torque i doubt there is a human who can stop the wheel. As far as warranty 5yrs I think. It is so well built I doubt anything will ever have to be repaired on mine. Customer service is excellent. Perry will answer your questions at Skutt........ my 2cents.
  18. High end or low end grinders will all get trashed with the dust. Makes no difference how much you pay. I've extended the life of the grinder by taping a strip of coffee filter across the fresh air intake on the grinder. one just has to keep it from clogging up by brushing off the dust . If one forgets it gets too hot the thermal breaker on the tool will kick.
  19. On my wood fired kiln i have a hard brick arch single row like yours. On top of that I have around 2 to 3 inches of kaowool. Above that is a lower temperature rockwool insulation. It holds in the heat quite nice. I see no need for doubling up on the hard brick. its just more mass to heat up.
  20. Fill in the gap where the key brick is supposed to go? I think even a commercial castable refractory would start to fail and crumble after just a few firings. Is that what youre asking?
  21. I only wedge large amounts of clay ( 15 lbs or more). everything else is "wedged" on the wheel. And i make my own clay And i dont have a deairing pugmill. I did not learn this way. I have just adapted to doing it this way.
  22. I have some home made bats that Icut from Medex almost 30 years ago that are still in service! Its more expensive but its for exterior use which means its quite tough. From what Ive been told the highway department uses it for their road signs. Good stuff medex.
  23. Could it be a newer Arc fault type breaker (AFCI) thats causing the problem? Those things trip if you look at them wrong. With an old old motor with worn brushes arcing could be the problem?
  24. I figured out that slooooooow cooling of the glaze firing will virtually eliminate pinging. Being patient when it's down to 300f is rather hard but think about how much time and effort went into making an entire kiln load of wares and being so impatient that one is willing to take the chance of ruining all that hard work. If pinging is an issue perhaps allowing the kiln to cool to room temperature would be worth a try. I know that glaze to body fit is a whole other issue but I'm just saying it might be worth a try... That aside wouldn't it be fun to purposely "glue" a mass of rejects t
  25. Pings from "people" or cooling ceramics too fast "pings"?
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