Jump to content

Pres

Moderators
  • Content Count

    4,884
  • Joined

  • Last visited

3 Followers

About Pres

  • Rank
    Retired Art Teacher
  • Birthday 08/20/1949

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    bisquefire06@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central, PA
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking, family, travel, Art in general. I have a small studio in my garage. Two electric kilns, two wheels, wedging table etc. I am primarily interested in cone 6 Ox. but like to see what is going on at all ranges. Read about ceramics voraciously and love the feel of the clay and throwing. Have to admit that my greatest joy is in the making, not the glazing. That said I do mix my own glazes, some of my own formulas, some borrowed. Retired from teaching art, in 2009 after 36 years, taught ceramics 34 of those years.

Recent Profile Visitors

421,719 profile views
  1. Hi folks, no new question in the pool so I will pose another. Based on my buying my first new kiln in over 30 years, anything over 4k is a big expense, especially for a retired teacher and hobby potter. So I will ask of you: QotW: What is your first and second most expensive equipment expense? This is a pretty easy question for me, as #1 is the new kiln, the L&L e28m-3 , and #2 is my 30 year old Brent CXC potters wheel. Really in the end, considering the years of use. . . these have been really cheap, even though the original sticker shock is daunting! best, Pre
  2. I got rid of a kiln that had bricks in much better shape than that, but electrical components were shot. .. . Next door neighbor decided he would like the sections and old floor and lid. Took them to his camp, and by using the sections as were he made two very fine fire pits. The family loves them as they don't get excessively hot on the outside and do a great fire. I cautioned them on the softness of the brick, and he says he cuts shorter lengths for in it. Your kiln looks like it could be a firepit in a later life! best, Pres
  3. Welcome to the forum @charlesrsmart, It does indeed seem that you have an Evenheat model 810 kiln which was built with 120v power. It doe have a skutt kiln sitter on it that is "rated" to 240vac. You kiln is rated to fire up to cone 8 which along with its size is a compromise in order to fire using house voltage. As before, welcome, and if you have further questions I believe there are several here that would be willing to help you. best, Pres
  4. I have the softcover of the Gregory book, from 1995. Packed away right now in the attic I think. This fall the library will be finished. . Yahoo! As to drying, all of us know that the best method is time and air. For that, especially in these Summer months a dehumidifier is helpful. I have some plates thrown last week, trimmed while pretty wet, that still haven't begun to dry too well. So I turned on the electric heat to provide circulation and to remove some of the moisture. Not really much heat. I also place fans in such a manner as to keep running the air in a circular motion in the ne
  5. Even though many of us are out of date, like a good book you can still learn lots. .. . . . Most of my library is from the 70-2000's, but then again there was an arts movement. best, Pres
  6. Hi folks, no new questions in the pool. . . but I have been thinking, and doing some reading. Often when working I stand, especially when handbuilding, Standing gives me much more leverage when wedging, rolling out slabs or coils. Later, when assembling I find myself standing over the banding wheel while working and while analyzing and planning the next stages of the piece. I stand when putting handles on thrown mugs and other forms. I stand when decorating with brush work and other forms. For me standing gives me more control over my view of the pot from different angles, up and down. I
  7. @Lucia MatosI would also recommend any of the Robin Hopper books, I especially like Making Marks. I also like the Simon Leach Book Potters Handbook. Over the years I have owned several ceramics books, and still own enough to fill several shelves in my library. I never get tired of them and always pull them out when wondering about something. Oh that reminds me The Potters Dictionary is also a good book on many things and covers a lot of historic forms. best, Pres
  8. I also use a mitre box (old wooden one), but I use a hack saw blade for cutting when they are cheese to leather hard. best, Pres
  9. Old prof used to talk about the rim of a mug "kissing the lip" , in my experience too thin, and they are sharp and poor feeling, too thick and they tend to dribble and feel uncomfortable. best, Pres
  10. Having some experience with these, it would be good to have a picture showing the condition of the cable hook up. best, Pres
  11. Excellent points @Chilly & @Denice as electronic mediums do seem to be replacing books in hand. I also believe that some of us have become lazy, looking for an answer to a specific question instead of researching material for the answer. When you have a forum, it is easy to go there and post "What does cone mean?" Than to research it. I have often seen questions that I wondered how much the poster thought about it before asking. At the same time, I believe that videos of technique certainly give more information than a description or a series of pictures. One example here is a pulling tec
  12. Hi folks, I have a new question for you this week, involving reading. QotW: When looking for Ceramics related reading material, do you look for technique\, guided process, aesthetic, or historic related reading? In my earlier days, when learning how to throw, and make pieces, I would often select suck up any reading material I could on technique. Looking for all of the ways to throw, trim, assemble and anything else. I was voracious in my perusal of Ceramics Monthly, and then when Pottery Making came out it was my new favorite. I have always been more about technique, figuring
  13. Let the rims stiffen to cheese hard, then flip to dry the bottoms. I have found that in most cases if I have a warped area, it is usually because the rim was pulled too thin. I always chamois the rim (actually use my first and second finger web) to thicken/compress the rim. The cone idea works for some, but the compressed rim usually does the trick. best. Pres
  14. @Min You are right there, but I thought it was a good question for discussion as we have some out there that make for the load like @Mark C., and others that just load what they make. I believe there are more in the second category than the first, because most do not make for large scale production, but more towards an inventory for shows that they make replacements for when coming back from a show that just renews their inventory. best, Pres
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.