Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Pres

  • Birthday 08/20/1949

Contact Methods

  • MSN
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central, PA
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking, family, travel, Art in general. I have a small studio in my garage. Two electric kilns, two wheels, wedging table etc. I am primarily interested in cone 6 Ox. but like to see what is going on at all ranges. Read about ceramics voraciously and love the feel of the clay and throwing. Have to admit that my greatest joy is in the making, not the glazing. That said I do mix my own glazes, some of my own formulas, some borrowed. Retired from teaching art, in 2009 after 36 years, taught ceramics 34 of those years.

Recent Profile Visitors

422,167 profile views

Pres's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)



  1. I have used one last year, I did drill a hole in an old plywood bat that made a flush surface with just the image sticking up. I then placed the mug on this over the stamp, using a piece of plastic pipe with an end plug, and a sock. I was able to get a good image. Lots of work, not sure it was worth it, so until I can think of a better idea, doing in the old way-sgraffito. Maybe a smaller stamp would work, don't know. best, Pres
  2. Bought one of those for the HS I worked at. Great wheel, solid, good motor and controller. For most potters it would do well, but for the HS with 50 min. periods and clean up at the end, better to have the other version with the removable splash pans. Next 3 were those. best, Pres
  3. I have not gotten around to making a plaster damp box, but use a large plastic container with a damp sponge in the bottom and a plastic tray on top with a lid to finish. This will keep chalice stems and bowls from drying out for two weeks. I used to have an old fridge that I used for years when doing the festivals and other things. The freezer would keep things "forever", where the fridge would be good for about a week. It sat outside the shop the entire time. best, Pres
  4. We used to go to the Pot shop at PSU around 7pm and work until 1 or 2am. Often in nothing but shorts and T, sometimes even just shorts, gals wore swim suits. . everyone hosed off before going home. This was in Summer of the 70's. best, Pres
  5. Bottom edge of glazed area indicates movement and thickness. Have you tried spraying the glaze on, and as @Bill Kielbsays crystallization is apparent nullifying the transparency, so a faster firing could help solve part of the problem. best, Pres
  6. Coolers are really important for outdoor shows. I remember days when the PSU arts festival would be 98F. and 90% humidity. People just dragged themselves through it. I bet they sold lots of water that weekend. best, Pres
  7. Hi folks, pondering new questions, thinking about old days, festivals and art shows, small events and large, far away and near. . . .and one question was always on my mind; how do I feed my self and wife when working the booth? I don't know about you, but I like good food, not overly seasoned or salted, not heavy in the belly, but flavorful and healthy, within reason. I would see all sorts of solutions with folks from buying from a vendor/food truck, to coolers of sandwiches and drinks, and even some folks cooking brunch at a small camp stove behind their booth. Their food would have probably sold better than the crafts from the smell of it. My own situation was usually my wife would go and get something of her tastes, then I. Other times we would bring a cooler with salads and cold drinks. I thought it might be a good topic, as many times food is important to keep your nerves even, and your blood sugar from diving! QotW: How do you feed yourself when working art shows or festivals? Please include examples! best, Pres
  8. As @Min and @Hulk says, to add one more point make certain to place rows tight on the floor between the wheel wells and walls. This will prevent shifting at the floor while traveling around those mountain roads and curves. Load shift is problem when carrying boxed heavy material. best, Pres
  9. I started out with a Summer class back in 1970. Class was a 3 day a week, but I was there every day and weekends often for about 6-8 hrs. Class grade was based on work, class was 8wks I believe, I waited til the bisque deadline week to keep anything and had 9 pieces that I kept. Ceramics 2 maybe had 20. I practiced all of it from throwing to pulling handles, 3 major forms cylinder, bowl, and plate. Kept so little that everyone thought I was crazy, but what I did keep was good for the time. Over the years of teaching, my skills improved because of teaching and lots of experience. As far as water goes, I use it to center, make first pull and a few later, then dry my hands and throw dry for the rest of the pot. I keeps me from slumping the pot and allows me to compress/thin the walls. best, Pres
  10. I believe the correct setting is a bisque, fired empty. Check your manual for the kiln, or if you do not have the manual, you can find it for your kiln at L& L's web site-https://hotkilns.com/ best, Pres
  11. @mky1000, Often there is a tendency of the beginner to mold the hand to the cone on the wheel head. The angle of the lt hand is important to keep from leaving the bottom wonky. If you keep the palm of the hand perpendicular to the wheel head, or even angle it slightly tilted away from the clay, the edge of the hand opposite of the thumb will have a natural tendency to center up the bottom area of the clay. This technique seems to work especially well when using a rt fist to push the clay downward. your clay will not look so much like a cone, but more of a hockey puck slightly narrower at the top. This will also be easier to open up than a cone, and at the same time give you an easier reach for the first pull. All IMHO, based on years of experience teaching HS and adults. best, Pres
  12. @Skip, A few answers to some questions may help the community with some helpful suggestions: Where does the pinholing occur, where glazes overlap, on the inside of the bowl, outside of the bowl, in the bottom of the inside of the bowl? What is your prep for this brushing on, have you washed the pottery with a damp sponge, or do you dip the bowl in a sink of water as some do? What is the consistency of the glaze that you are brushing on? A picture would also be helpful. As to the food safeness of the bowls, I would not sell bowls with pinholes on the inside if prevalent. best, Pres
  13. @xinyao When posting here, please do not place in outside links, and please use english. . . .to make it easier for the majority of the forum population to understand. We can all google for a translator, as I have with your post, but would prefer things posted in english. Welcome to the forum! best, Pres
  14. Yesterday @Mark C. posted: Any supply chain issues for you as well as raising costs in thios new landscape . Things like plaster are scare as well as talc at Laguna Clay Com.Equipment is long backordered they say- Prices are creeping up on most items I had to raise my prices as well to keep up. any issues for you in ceramics? To paraphrase, if I may, QotW: Are you dealing with any supply chain issues, or seeing creeping material prices that have or may cause you to raise prices? Personally, I have not purchased any materials this year yet, and not any in the last few years as I am usually a bulk buyer with little in the way of output. I even have #50 of Albany slip purchased years ago! However, as I have run out of metallic oxide materials for glazes I will be making a trip to Pittsburgh SC to stock up once again. I am sure I will be in for sticker shock! I will repeat my plea: QotW: Are you dealing with any supply chain issues, or seeing creeping material prices that have or may cause you to raise prices? best, Pres
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.