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About Pres

  • Rank
    Retired Art Teacher
  • Birthday 08/20/1949

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  • Location
    Central, PA
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking, family, travel, Art in general. I have a small studio in my garage. Two electric kilns, two wheels, wedging table etc. I am primarily interested in cone 6 Ox. but like to see what is going on at all ranges. Read about ceramics voraciously and love the feel of the clay and throwing. Have to admit that my greatest joy is in the making, not the glazing. That said I do mix my own glazes, some of my own formulas, some borrowed. Retired from teaching art, in 2009 after 36 years, taught ceramics 34 of those years.

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  1. ECpot, no problem. New kilns can be frustrating, as they are part learning curve. Hopefully we will both get some answers. For those of you looking at my question about adjustments, I would think this cone is pretty spot on, maybe a little hot. I had two included with the kiln, so one was at the bottom of the top sections, and one on the floor shelves. They both look almost exactly alike.
  2. "If your kiln is supplied with cones, the programmed cone number should match the cones provided, or you may use a cone of your own choice for the first firing. The example below is for a cone 04 firing, but if you use a cone other than 04, substitute that cone number in the programming." Immediately after this is the fast glaze fire menu in novice mode. I guess I missed something somewhere in my reading about running a long glaze firing. I do not believe anything is damaged, but time will tell. As far as making adjustments I was just wondering, and I believe asking for opinions is better
  3. I fired my new L&L e28-3 last night with an empty load, bottom shelves in, and one upper shelf near top zone cone 5 self supporting at top and bottom. Instructions said to fire fast glaze to cone that was included with the kiln. kiln took 5.38 hrs. . .I assume 5' 38". Temp went to 2187, 2186 and 2181. My way of thinking that is ^5 3/4. I suppose I could find way of making adjustments to that in the cone offsets, but if wishing to fire to cone 6 that would get me pretty much there to just use cone 5, I do believe that I have been firing my ^6 firings by hand to about ^6 1/4 or 1/2. Any tho
  4. Kiln wiring is in, will set up wifi, and update software and then run an empty test firing.

  5. I replaced bricks on my old J236, and the newer bricks were what I got. They did not line up exactly, but worked. I would suggest if using the newer bricks to use a full run(all the ring). Also will need to use the newer holders. However, at the time I bought the replacements I noticed they had the old ones, after the fact. If you can get them use them. Thanks for horning in Neil as I knew you would make much better assessment than I. best, Pres
  6. If you are handy, and can put some money into it, you could have a keeper. However, now for the bad news. IMHO --you would need to replace the floor, and also replace the bricks of the top section(actually I believe that to be the bottom section), you would also have to replace the top rows of bricks on the other two sections if they are anywhere near as bad as they look from the angles. The lid looks like it has been replaced so may be OK. Finally, I would get a stand as it is not good to have it on the floor. So I would expect an ependire of possibly 2-$300 dollars and quite a bit of labor.
  7. Any sculptural piece of size requires considerable planning and engineering in the design phase. This may include the creation of maquettes to test the concept. As @Bill Kielbhas said, there are several ways to create sectional larger designed pieces. Other considerations in the design process will include the environment the sculpture will be in, indoor, outdoor, or wet/dry environments. As with all ceramic, wet, cold and heat, can create problems as the clay will absorb some amount of water in unglazed areas, cold freezing there will cause cracking. I have thrown with coil throwing meth
  8. I did consignment in our area years ago. I would have a new venue, the hot thing for the area, and all would go well for a 1/2 year or so. Then the shop would close, and things would move on. At one shop, it closed, and I lost all stock there, as the owners just shut down and left with bills behind, and no paper work. Get the picture. Dropped consignment after that and haven't been back. However, there are a few shops in trendy towns around that have shops that have lasted through the covid. I might be getting in contact with them. best, Pres
  9. This is and interesting thread in itself, an points out things that I have pondered over much for years. Often when using older glaze recipes (from the 70's and 80's) I would find that the glaze was not what was expected, and had to test more with oxide additions. It always seemed to be in the iron areas. Good thread here about the way things have changed. @MinIf you would add a question to the QotW pool about differences in cone 6 vs cone 10 I would hop on it, as I want folks to post in the pool. I can also add a little in my own perspective. Back in the day, trying to find anything
  10. @Hulk Don't get rid of those broken shelves, they work well as @neilestricksays to use as bottom stilts, or other stilts. I have always used them as a "riser" for a stilt when I didn't have enough 1/2" stilts. @neilestrickI had to get more of the patens in to the loads, and as there was not enough space for two across the stagger helped, then would fire the chalices on the top shelf. I had wondered about large bottom shelves, and probably did things wrong as I used 5 in the octagonals to support the full bottom shelf. It is good to know that 1/2 inch gets me enough to have downdraft vent
  11. Hi folks, once again no new questions in the question pool - Soooo I will pose another question this week. As all of you probably know, I have a new kiln and will be going through the test firings and first firings and other things. This is big step, as I have not used a vent or computerized kiln before to fire my own work. I have assisted in firing and seen the dyna trol system in use. My new one has genesis, and quad elements a power vent, and 3 inch brick. However, that is not anything to do with the question. . . somewhat. I have always fired my kilns with a base shelf us
  12. I forgot to mention, that I have several used1/2 shelves and assorted other shelves to go with this kiln; included in the price.
  13. Thanks for the approval, it is in very good condition for an old kiln. Like an antique car barn find! best, Pres
  14. @neilestrick love the piece. The multiple profile grooved rib would work while throwing as I do some pieces with texture before shaping. However, if doing anything like the pitcher form, you would find that the ribs along the curve are much less pronounced but wider because of stretching the form. Mugs may be a simple solution with the rib so long as there is not much shaping after the texture process. Either that or areas to be necked and flared as in a mug lip could be left smooth. best, Pres
  15. I have a Skutt kiln that I rescued from a JrHS being torn down in 2010. My original intention was to use it as a backup, but never got around to running electric to it. I personally know that the kiln has been fired maybe 10 times in its lifetime. The Jr. High teacher was not that ceramic savvy, and I mentored her on firing it. The kiln has damage to the lower row of bricks where the janitors damaged it when moving it to the loading dock where I picked it up. Other than that, and s slight crack in the lid it is in very good shape as you can see from the pictures. I am asking $200 for it.
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