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Pres

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About Pres

  • Rank
    Retired Art Teacher
  • Birthday 08/20/1949

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    bisquefire06@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central, PA
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking, family, travel, Art in general. I have a small studio in my garage. Two electric kilns, two wheels, wedging table etc. I am primarily interested in cone 6 Ox. but like to see what is going on at all ranges. Read about ceramics voraciously and love the feel of the clay and throwing. Have to admit that my greatest joy is in the making, not the glazing. That said I do mix my own glazes, some of my own formulas, some borrowed. Retired from teaching art, in 2009 after 36 years, taught ceramics 34 of those years.

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  1. Similar type of form years ago, I followed the process of John Glick. He made a wooden form, with a hinge and screen door latch. This allowed him to place a cheese hard slab into the form, put a top and bottom on the piece while they were also cheese to leather hard. Often he would put stuffing inside, to doam the top of the piece, and then cut off the lid section to remove the stuffing. However, if you timed everything right you could construct it with not stuffing. If the piece collapses a little, then just insert a straw into the area where you will later cut the opening, and blow lightly to inflate the walls back to straight. Just another option in MHO. best of luck, Pres
  2. Some form of crystaline glaze. Commercial versions use colored crystals in the glaze. I would think that this may be that, and that the glaze runs a lot as you can see from it being fired upside down. and the dripping. However it may be a glaze fired to develop its own crystals. These often take very precise firings with stages of hold where the crystals grow. For one trying to make one pot in that manner is and effort in futility, but for one absorbed in process treasures to behold. best, Pres
  3. I believe there is a learning curve, ever so slight with every box of clay I use. For example: is this fresh clay from the manufacturer as in August 2019 when I first started to throw it; is this clay that has frozen one, or two winters; is this clay from the box hit by the sun everyday as it is not quite under the kayaks? Point being, each of these is of a different consistency. On the other end of the problem is the part Brandon talks about. I am presently using two clays in the studio, Hazelnut Brown 211 and White 630 both from SC. I like them both. . .now, but when I first started with them I hated them. The Hazelnut through well, but was not as forgiving as the 112 I had been throwing with, and it is also very dirty, especially when following with the 630. The other problem I had with the Hazelnut Brown was the glazes that I had used came out so dark on it that they had no vibrance. Solved that with Either a white slip, or a white underglaze. . both worked well for different effects. The 630 turned out to be a different set of problems, Seemed to hold water, made a slurry in the bucket fast, when stiffer plates were almost impossible not to crack, Tall forms were tough to get over 30" before shaping. I like to throw dry and at first it did not respond well, but with a little more water yes. Now that I have adjusted my throwing both work, but it takes a while to get all the bugs out. Why did I leave my old trusted 112 and 201? I was looking for clays that fired a little more dense or with a lower absorption rate, more contrast to the bodies, and something new. As far as the learning curve, that was a plus in the whole equation. best, Pres
  4. Oldlady, suggested and Project image tutorial for the QotW. I convinced her that sort of thing really belonged in the "Studio Operations and Making Work" section. She agreed. I am setting this up for anyone that would like to show others a brief tutorial of how to do some technique or project. If you have already done this here, repost it in this area, couldn't hurt. I believe everyone may be looking for something to occupy their time, and this may help. best, Pres
  5. Yeah, I bought mine in Florida, had it shipped to PA, Free! best, Pres
  6. I have gone through all of this with wheels back in the 70's, and bought a CXC. Now as it is more a hobby wheel and I have never produced thousands of pots it is still running great! Maintenance? None, never replace a belt or a pedal or any other part. Good investment. That said, I considered several other wheels in the 80's & 90's when I purchased wheels for the HS I taught at. Bought a pair of CI's an MP and and HP. Price saving for the money I had, and at the same time thinking that the way I centered and threw would be best with the HP. Really glad I bought the HP, as I could literally stop the MP while centering 10#. I always demonstrated on the HP. It is still there, and running well, as is the MP. Mid 90's and I bought a new wheel for the HS a Bailey top end with the fixed splash pan. I didn't like it, but could not stop it. . it was quiet, plenty of torque and would throw well, I just did not like cleaning it. Kids liked it though, as did a lot of the adults. Then I bought the same one with a removable splash pan. Great wheels! Belts just needed replacing, but then I retired in 2009, and it has seen two teachers since then. Any wheel you get, you will probably have to keep and I on, don't get lulled into thinking it is not the wheel when things seem to are not as impressive as they had been, wheels don't wear out, belts and potentiometers and other things do, but they are repairable. When you use a wheel everyday, it is tough to notice is the belt is slipping more than last week or last year. Belts shouldn't slip, that is why I check mine monthly just to know the condition of things. best, Pres
  7. Oldlady, maybe you could find some recipes on line for treats for your dog. Don't know, just thinking. Pets are important. best, Pres
  8. Ordered a ton last September or so. Did not freeze hard this Winter, and I will be in the shop soon. Have to finish kiln repairs after I get started. Throw a little replace a few switches, trim a little. . . . new rhythm! No bowling! best, Pres
  9. Okay, how can I ignore it. As much as a big part of me wants to overlook or stay away from this question, it is historic just from the amount of media exposure on it. I realize that within the last century or two there have been far worse diseases out there, and a much higher death/survival rate than we have now. . . but the world has become a smaller place. So I will ask as the QotW: What are your concerns about the coronovirus impact on your health and your livelihood and passion? My daughter has been harking at my wife and myself to stay at home, and not go out. Protect ourselves as we are older, 70 & 72. We have been going out to lunch or dinner, at less traveled time granted. We go to grocery stores and have stocked up. I have continued my bowling and may continue if not canceled this week. Until Wed. I was ready to go to NCECA. Have I changed anything? I haven't visited my father, who is 93, and having health problems, even though I really want to... . he lives 2hrs away. We don't tarry anywhere, and try to stay away from malls, and larger groups, but we try not to let it put us in quarantine. I do have health concerns as I am mildly diabetic. . .meaning that I control my diabetes with no use of medication, my wife is mildly asthmatic and hypertensive. In the long run we will adjust as we can, watching the news and often checking virus maps for recent cases. So far we have not had any cases in the 4 county area we live in. I have communion set orders that will need filling at the end of the month, but that is always by mail. Wondering if they will readjust the dates for the awards also as the colleges are closed. So I ask once again QotW: What are your concerns about the coronovirus impact on your health and your livelihood and passion? best, Pres
  10. I have one from the late 70's. I do my best to make repairs often and keep it in good working order replacing elements, switches wiring blocks and wiring as needed. Replace lids and bottoms also. Not a whole lot of work, I do happen to have an L&L, and the bricks get very little wear. best, Pres
  11. Going beyond the classroom as Neil says, learning skills that handle excellent critiques can often carry over into all sorts of other discussions and debates. When one realizes it is not the person behind the object but the object itself having to stand on its own, then the idea of being impersonal, non emotional and rational becomes of a second nature. Students need these sorts of interactions to be able to deal with all sorts of "stressful" situations. best, Pres
  12. Just to let you folks know, I have received and email from NCECA confirming cancellation of the conference this year in Richmond, VA. Those who have registered will get an email on 4 options dealing with their registration fee. best, Pres
  13. Hi folks, another question from Pres, as there seems to be nothing new in the question pool. When you repair( equipment, like a wheel, kiln or other equipment) do you use the manufacturers parts or do you use out of house parts(from another parts supplier)? I have gone both routes when repairing equipment over the years. In the long run, ordering things like elements from a second hand house ended up to be more of a hassle than the savings was worth, and at the same time it seemed I was burning elements faster. As far as belts, one of the wheels I had would use a V-belt from an auto parts store. I also found rubber drive pucks for my motorized kick wheel at an industrial parts store. In the long run though, I have found that the support with the manufacturer and quality of parts was best bang for the buck in house. What have you experiences been? So once again question of the week: When you repair do you use the manufacturer parts or out of house part?
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