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Pres

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Everything posted by Pres

  1. I reclaim and even though I yearn for a pug mill, cannot justify the cost. So in the Winter when the outside is freezing and the clay is frozen, I let the clay thaw in a warm room and drain in a bucket on an elevated board. I use the heat of Summer to dry when needed, and rebag all scraps and let them slake together. At any rate after time I have very little in the way of waste, and rewedge by cut and slam and cone wedging to finish. best, Pres
  2. @Callie Beller Diesel(last Dresden. . . still finishing, sad about Murphy, scary) Working with boxes can be really addictive, I did a run of potpourri burners in the 80's, tower with a ball shaped box on top, lid was carved with pierced decoration to allow the potpourri fumes to escape from the votive candle burning in the chimney base. So many variations of the same form can create some really neat pots. best, Pres
  3. @Callie Beller DieselI really like the box form with the resist design. . . .works really well on the dark clay with the snowy glaze. I love making the boxes, and when I was doing them I could sell as many boxes as I could mugs. Time involved is about the same, but the finished effect looks more valuable for lots of people. I would display them with bath beads or salts, paper clips or other things. They work really well in bathrooms when you have toothbrush holders, soap dishes and other things for the bathroom. Some people even talked about using them for salt as salt pigs were not lidded.
  4. The real deal, excellent video, Thanks Chilly for posting it. Shame there are so many greats of the 70's that I looked up to, mostly all gone. best, Pres
  5. I'm one of those nuts that signs everything. . . taught to do so in college. I also date as many do not do, but as I have done some things for 30 years, a date shows something that those who know my work are certain of. . . progress, evolution, and sometimes a revolution. best, Pres
  6. I am wondering, if you compressed the rims when throwing them, did you use a chamois or other method to compress the rim. If you used a sponge, the clay particles and grog get exposed and do not have as much body adhesion on the rim. Just a thought, best, Pres
  7. @liambesawSpiral wedging was one of the techniques I taught when teaching, along with cut and slam, and the rams head. Spiral takes the least energy when wedging the most clay. . . .very efficient. I have read some good descriptions in books, but videos help the most, or a teacher than does demo, hand on hand, and then critiques as you wedge. Tough to do otherwise. best, Pres
  8. Hi folks, Once again there are not new questions in the QotW pool, so I will pose one I was thinking about when wedging clay. Everyone has a "go to" point or comfort zone, for wedging, throwing, rolling out slabs, and other things. Myself I figure over 15# is work when wedging. When it comes to throwing, 25# is my limit, but then I don't often do that, only for large jars and vases. I usually limit my throwing off the hump to 15# as that will easily get me a good hour or two of throwing for stems or chalice bowls. Most recently I have been running some experimental ideas on chalices, so
  9. I have thrown on a Lockerbie, and for a kick wheel it is fine, however, folks that learned on a belt/gear driven direct wheel are happier than using the rhythms of a kick wheel.The lockerbie as most well built kick wheels is a tank, will last forever. At the same time if you are looking to throw larger than 15# I would use the Clay Boss. best, Pres
  10. I have thrown on a variety of wheels over the years some in college, some at the HS I taught at, and some I owned. I started on a Randall motorized cook wheel in 1970, nice all around wheel as long as you worked with the wind down of the fly wheel. Then I went to a HS with two wheels to teach. The first wheel was an Amaco motorized kick, much the same as the Randall, the second was an Amaco two speed direct drive that I would not recommend to anyone. One of the first things I did was to add two Creative Industries wheels. The worst of the bunch was a Creative Industries MP (1/2 hp.). I could
  11. Hi @ChloeElizabeth, I often center larger amounts of clay for throwing off of the hump, and larger bowls, vases and jars. When working with larger amounts, realize that the amount of energy is also larger. . . energy on your part. I start with well wedged clay that is slightly wetter than my mug, and small bowl clay. I cone wedge thus ending in a nice cone shaped piece of clay that i throw down in the center of the wheel head. Then while the wheel is turning slowly I slap center the clay with both hands in a regular rhythm. This pretty much gets the clay even, not centered. Then with we
  12. I make mine with separate drain platter. I have given several sets at Christmas time, and found many people use them for all sorts of fruit on a counter or table, others for rinsing berries and grapes or other small fruit. I hadn't ever considered suing them as a steamer on the stove in a lidded pot, but will consider it next time we do mussels. I put an inside swirl line using a small rounded wooden tool to make a nice groove from bottom to top, then put a series of holes following the swirl line getting larger as they move toward the rim. I also flair the rim as in most of my bowls so that
  13. Hi folks, sorry this is late, but I have been having trouble coming up with a new question for the QotW. . . . imagine that! However, lately I have seen the strands that refer to measuring sizes, using a variety of ideas, so I decided to ask: What form of measurement do you use when making pieces, and what sort of preplanning do you do? My own measuring process depends on the type of work I am doing. I have often said that I throw off the hump when making much of what i do in the way of chalices, small jars and lids. I really did not go into much more than the throwing, saying that I use
  14. @SorceryI can only imagine what that would do to my cholesterol problems! best, Pres
  15. @Mark C.I understand your concerns. Surgery 6 years ago on the rt thumb left me with a dead joint in that thumb and limited movement. Surgery that works out that way is not a solution for me. I still have quite a bit of grip as most potters do, and my wrists do not seem to be majorly affected by the arthritis. However the last joints on my fingers all seem to be getting knobby. I believe that part of that is the way I have thrown for years hooking the last joint of the lft hand fingers to pull the clay on the inside. They naturally have a hooked position even at rest, and only straighten out i
  16. @Min the site you listed Min is my go to for creating all sorts of templates. I will often got there for curves and shapes instead of my Corel Draw that takes a few minutes more. best, Pres
  17. @T.Cotta, hand tools work well, and any electric drill will allow you to size down the plunger. However, a kit would be nice, yet at 71, I'm not into a new enterprise. best, Pres
  18. Went to a orthopedic surgeon last week. My biggest concern was some cysts that have appeared on the lt wrist, and the rt second finger knuckle. X-rays of both hands have revealed areas of arthritis on second joints of fingers. In the end the Dr. asked about my pain, I answered that there was discomfort, not pain, and that I would work in the clay when things got sore and it would go away. He said that when it got bad to let him know and he could fix it. How I asked? "fuse the joints causing the pain. I said Why would I do that, as I got up to leave! best, Pres
  19. @neilestrick, Sorry to say, but for coils, handles, and feet among other things my Ryobi electric caulk gun has been running for 2 years now, and is still going strong. The amount of torque the motor puts out compared to my hand is more than sufficient for these dies. I recommend it to anyone looking for a small hand held extruder. March 2019 issue of Ceramics Monthly, contains an article written by Madeleine Coomey and I. You can also find it on my blog site. best, Pres
  20. Yeah Chilly, one of the reasons I never bought one, but then I have quite a few buckets of dried clay I need to get recycled now. It has taken me many years to discover a method of not having buckets of clay. I just have a scrap bag, and all trimmings and scrap go in that, it gets twisted closed, sets for a while, even in winter. Later I pull it out, dump the clay onto a bat to stiffen a bit, bread slice and slam several times and then wedge. No waste, no buckets of clay. I really would like to have pug mill for a few days out of the year, but then the price is too wasteful for as
  21. Most pugmills will use the pressure of what comes behind to push through the last few inches. If your clay is too wet, or too dry, run again with appropriate additions of either stiff or wet clay. It may take a few runs to get the right consistency. When I was mixing clay for students, I always kept two barrels of clay, one with slaked down slop, and one with clay recently used and thus stiffer. Time and experience with pugging is probably the best solution, but there is little you can do to harm the pug mill as long as you only put clay into it. . . .Unlike a student who wondered if it would
  22. Add a bit of water, and let it set over night. best, Pres
  23. Nice subtle surface with layers of depth. Really love the natural feel to these. .. . if on a beach it would be a keeper, but to see it like this how could anyone pass it up! Kudos, best, PRes
  24. @Sorcery, As much as I would like to agree with you that finding a new clay body is not the answer, I will agree that maybe not in this particular instance. That said, over the years of research and experience with wide range, and narrower range bodies, I have found that I do better with the narrower range clays. Absorption rates for clay bodies should be posted, along with shrinkage rates at different cone temps. These criteria allow one to compare various clays before purchase. Standard Ceramic has always been good about posting these criteria. When in doubt about choosing a new clay,
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