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  1. Hi, I'm a craftman from Vietnam and I'm truly struggle with finding a sucessful recipe of emerald glaze for my products. I'm using kaolin clay and gas kiln. My kiln can only fire at cone 01 (1140 celcius degree) and it is oxidation environment. So, I'm really appreciate if someone can help me to find a precise amount of copper (or iron, crom,...) for making the glaze or if you can share your recipes, experience, document,... would be a big help. I also attach an image of the glaze so you guys can have a better look at what I'm talking about. Thank you so much.
  2. Hello. I hope you are well. I'm brand new at ceramics. I've made some "collars" - clay rings about eight inches in diameter and about four inches high - to put around garden plants. (This is to conserve water by keeping it right at the plants' bases.) The bottom edge of the rings are unglazed because I learned that glazing the bottom edge would cause them to stick to the kiln shelf. I need to seal the unglazed edges so that they don't absorb water and then fracture when water freezes next winter. I don't want toxic sealants because I fear they will leach into the soil and poison the plants as well as other organisms. Do you know of any non-toxic sealers for ceramic items? Thank you.
  3. I have a deep and enduring fascination (infatuation?) with Japanese ceramic surfaces, but modern matte ones get me weak in the knees. I have been crushing all over Hashimoto´s black crackle slip/engobe, metallic cracks, and overall textured slip surfaces (check out those interiors) for about a year. Hive mind, how does he do it? Composition ideas? Kohiki "light" with manganese? Double firing? I´d love to experiment with similar textures... but don´t find much info out there on formulating this texture. Cheers and love from Chile! xo - Heather
  4. Hello everyone, i would like someone who knows very well to explain pretty please the chemistry, the ingredients, and the difference between regular pottery glazes and vitreous enamels used on metal jewellery, im scratching my head, whats the difference? i know one is low temp the other a high, but specifically what ingredients differ from eachother? i know "glazes" is a broad term, because there is a lot of them, but in general. Thank you in advance for your time. Simon
  5. I have an old second (third? fourth?!) hand kiln that should be able to reach up to 1300 degrees but seems to be getting stuck at around 200 degrees less than I need. I managed to do a bisque firing but when trying to do a glaze firing the kiln stopped at 1075 degrees celsius and then started to cool whilst still on. The controller (Ipco 3300) showed 'END' even though it had not reached the temperature I wanted and did not show an error message. I have no idea about the history of the kiln, when the elements were last changed etc etc. I (think I've) checked the controller settings to make sure nothing is set to hinder the maximum temperature. I have read about working out if it is the relays or the elements? I am a total rookie so don't really know where to start. Is this the best first move to troubleshoot the issue? Or could it be something simpler?
  6. What is your favorite commercial mid-range satin clear? Have been using Amaco HF-12, but it is, of course, unavailable these days. Thanks for taking the time.
  7. Hi, I am finding that when I run out of ANYTHING related to pottery, I can't replace the item. This includes clay and glazes. All the stores are out, including the main manufacturers. I noted that there is supply chain back up last year, but does anyone know why they are unable to manufacture and supply glaze? Is this all supplied from overseas?
  8. Hi guys, I bought a commercial white cone six glaze that is super standard and widely used in New Zealand. However, instead of being opaque as it should be, it comes out looking translucent, sort of milky. The glaze is mixed to average thickness and I coat for about five seconds. I also bought the brush-on version of the glaze but that comes out the same way. With the brushable glaze I apply three coats. I then fire to cone 6. My kiln sometimes overfires to about cone 7. Could this be the issue? A photo is attached with the glaze on two different clays. On the tile on the right, the glaze can be seen on the lower half. Any help would be much appreciated!
  9. Hi folks, Today I was working on the Wedding Jar that I had made for a nephew, and was trying to accent their lettering for names and dates. I had stamped these in, but it was not quite clear so I cleaned them up and added a stain over top thinking to do a little mishima to bring the letters up. However, due to the curved surface I lost some of the letter forms. What to do. I used a small brush after engraving the missing areas to flow the glaze in, and that worked. At the same time I decided to use the brush with a white engobe to accent the flowers of the mountain laurel I had stamped into the form. My tip for the day though is much simpler. I had problems with getting the right amount of slip or stain on to the fine bristled brush. I tried a lot of different techniques and then tried to dip a sponge brush into the container of slip or stain and lay it over the top of the container loading the brush up from that. It worked perfectly with just the right amount of stain or slip to work into the brush and keep the fine work when painting on the pot. I was an art teacher, working with a lot of media, especially watercolor, acrylic, and inks. This technique I had never heard of, but it would work well with almost any media to keep from overloading a brush. So. . .. do any of you have some technique that would work well with the use of stains, underglazes, glazes, even if brushing, spraying, or other technique? Post it here, it would be great to hear from you. best, Pres
  10. Hi, I am in need of some advice! I have a hobbytech 40 kiln with a kiln sitter LT-3K. I have been bisque firing my pots and they have been coming out amazing! (I always fire to the temperature that is on my clay packet using minibars) however I get to the glaze stage, I apply the glaze and let them sit for 24 hours, then I glaze fire. Everytime I take them out they start pinging/crazing, I want my pots to be food safe so I need help to get rid of the crazing. My clay I use is from the clay cellar I use either studio white or Buff body (smooth) earthenware and the glaze I use is Botz brush on. I don't know whether the firing schedule I have is wrong or whether the products I am using just don't fit together even though they are both earthenware based. I am still really new to all this so any advice would be amazing. I am also still playing around with the firing schedule so maybe this is causing the crazing? If anyone has a good firing schedule for glazing using the same kiln and kiln sitter that would be hugely appreciated!
  11. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  12. Hi! I'm very very very new to mixing my own glazes and I was wondering if anybody who has more experience would know how to adjust this cone 6 clear gloss glaze to be more glossy? This recipe fires well with my clay body (Georgie's Kristy Lombard or G-Mix 6) and Amaco underglazes, but I just wish it had a bit more sheen to it. Here it is: Feldspar Custer 200m - 36.5%, Frit Ferro 3134 - 20%, EPK - 18%, Silica 400 - 12%, Whiting - 8.5%, Talc 325 - 5%, Bentonite - 2%
  13. Hello, Does anyone know why this may be happening to my glazes. This is the second time it's happened. Both times at has been on mugs that had a drip glaze over the first color. Not sure if it's too thick? I have done several other pieces with a thick drip glaze on them and had no issues. The glazes are painted on glazes and are low fire. I appreciate the help and advise.
  14. Afternoon, well it is here in England! I am making some earthenware tags for jars etc. I think I've done a very long convoluted way of doing it but that's why I asking for help. I have stamped the clay with a motif and then bisque fired them, then brushed on oxide wash and wiped off, these were then fired again to 1040°c. The look is very natural and I like it. I was wondering if I can leave them like that or will any toxins in the oxide wash come off as the items will be handled. The wash I used was manganese, I would also like to use other washes/oxides. What would you all suggest?
  15. Hello, im new to the ceramics community and was wondering if there’s any way to make glaze into a solid-ish form? I do not want to harden it, I’m looking for a clay/foamy like consistency. Thank you!
  16. Hello I have a few mugs with a glaze drip beneath the handle that I'd like to grind down for stability. No issue with that. What I'm wondering is--is there a way to polish the grinded bit of glaze that will return it to a more similar surface texture to the rest of the piece? Or would I need to re-fire to accomplish this? I'm a relatively new potter so any tips / advice are greatly appreciated. I've only been able to find different ways to grind / prevent drips in the first place, but not so much on how to return the sanded bits to a similar glossiness seen in the rest of the ware or if this is even possible. Thanks!
  17. Is there a glaze that will allow for a gradual/subtle/general color change naturally over time? Ie. If the glaze was white/off-white but over the years of use gains more coloring due to wear?
  18. I’m afraid I might have put in the wrong program for the glaze firing . And am firing glazeware on bisque earthenware program I use somebody else’s kiln from time to time and not very sure how to change programs . It’s been firing for 4 hours exactly and is @740 degs She doesn’t use cones …. And now I’m all stressed Kiln opening time is an age away Im wondering what will happen to the pieces ?? MERRY MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL Thank you Nicky
  19. I was able to find these programs So I think the earthenware is on a porcelain glaze firing ( which fires too1200 Right now it’s at 1029 degs Should I just switch off and pray to the kiln gods Any suggestions ASAP would really b appreciated Thank you Nicky
  20. I am a long time sculptor/ potter and have no experience with stilting whatsoever. I recently got a comission to make 20 large egg forms without feet. I thought of stilts but apparently the weight of these large eggs is beyond the capacity of any stilts I have seen. I need to show little or no evidence of process. I’m wondering if anybody could help me figure out at share with me a way to get this done. I have already started but just with 2 out of 20. Please advise
  21. I recently did a glaze firing to cone 06 and the pieces came out horribly. I am relatively new to firing and was wondering if you could help me figure out what went wrong. I used BMix clay bisque fired to cone 04 then applied the glazes. The glazes used are in the pictures written on a note. I glaze fired to cone 06 and monitored the firing temps and they were as follows (all degrees are in Fahrenheit): Starting temp: 73 2 hours temp: 700 4 hour temp: 1185 6 hour temp: 1560 7 hour temp: 1680 8 hour temp: 1785 Final temp: 1827 at 8.5 hours Any thoughts very much appreciated!!
  22. Hi …. Am just wondering what could have happened here ? The glaze has been sitting since 2018 I stirred about a week ago ( did not notice stones ) But today went to use and found these hard crystals floating on the surface The second pic is the texture of the glaze unsieved …. The lumps are not hard I imagine even if I sieved added Epsom salts will not be worth the risk (?) **Ps …..If I just glaze the inside of small earthenware bottles and half the outside Will they still be food safe and fully functional for storing oil ? Thank you Nicky
  23. Hello! Im both new to this site and the wheel pottery community so bear with my rambling, sorry! Ive been making some tester pots and little cups/tumblers for fun to give myself a shot at wheel throwing [I’m more a miniature sculpture kind of artist] and everything seemed ok after the glaze firing for a couple of my pieces but a week later [today] I noticed a ton of cracks all over a tiny pot I under-glazed then glazed transparently and on a mini vase I made. Im not terribly upset by this, on the small pot the cracks kind of suit the piece but Im afraid the problem will persist with future pieces? im also new to this brand of premade glaze [botz stoneware] and have no idea what to do at this point. heres a photo of the smallest pot
  24. I'm still trying to get my arms around this concept of "flocculation and deflocculation". Specifically, here is my question: If I measure a glaze's specific gravity, and it is "X", and I then flocculate the glaze by adding epsom salts, will I then find that the specific gravity of the glaze has changed? If so, will it be higher or lower? The flocculation process makes the glaze seem "thicker" so I am assuming the SG has increased, but ...........?
  25. So I usually mix dry stains with dry glaze, but currently have a large quantity of mixed Laguna MS 29 clear glaze I want to use instead. How would I figure out quantity of stain to add? My usual ratio is 10g stain to 100g dry glaze. Is this possible and will it have a good outcome??
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