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Found 261 results

  1. Does anyone have a simple clear gloss recipe that you love for cone 6 ox suitable for clear and color? Simple, stable and preferably cheap. Same for matte surface. Prefer a soft satin matte, not too dry. Thanks!
  2. Hi there, Like many artists, I am currently transitioning from making pottery in a community studio to working at home which is a big adjustment with an even bigger learning curve! I'll be setting up my very first kiln in the coming weeks and now need to figure out (for the first time) what the best commercial glazes out there are for the clay I'm using. For now I am using Standard #112 clay, and I will also eventually be working with their #551 Porcelain (both cone 6). I will be firing in a Skutt Km818 electric kiln. I have two big questions. First, does anyone have any tips on good commercial glazes to use on the #112 for a good fit? I'm specifically looking for a simple & reliable black, white and/or grey (glossy or matte), as well as other simple colors like cream, peach, soft/pale greens, yellows and generally neutral, organic tones. I like the look of flat color, and not necessarily layering. I've noticed that Coyote's Enduro-colors are really lovely and just my taste but I have zero experience with this company. Does anyone use these glazes? Has anyone tried Standard Clay CO's line of glazes? I just discovered those exist. Lastly, since much of my work is done by hand-painting AMACO Velvet underglazes, I now need to find a good zinc-free clear to put on top of both these clay bodies. Ideally, I'd love to find a glossy clear that won't craze or make my underglazes designs smudge or bleed color. This is a very overwhelming undertaking as a first-timer, so I'd love some feedback and guidance! Thanks!
  3. I am wondering if anyone has tried using the paint spray guns from harbor freight that run around $16.99. Or is it a you get what you pay for situation and worth the $50 to buy the PH300 glaze sprayer from the ceramic suppliers? Do paint sprayers even work for glaze, or will the just get all clogged up? I make 1" ceramic pendants and hand brush the fronts and backs. two coats on the back and three on the top. I currently have hundreds to do, and I think the time saved by using a spray gun will be the way to go.
  4. Hi all, pretty new to the world of creating my own glazes - I have found several on glazy.org that I like (although I'm aware that an opensource online forum for glazes can be potentially disastrous). The question that I have is for silicon carbide. The recipe I'm referencing is this https://glazy.org/recipes/20474 which calls for a 1200 mesh SiC. The original recipe - https://glazy.org/recipes/19163 - calls for 1000 mesh SiC. The pottery supplier in my area carries only 400 mesh. What would the difference in appearance be? There's a massive difference in how those two glazes look and I worry that if I were to try it, a 400 mesh SiC would have none of the nice specking or bold colors. Any help or insight would be appreciated.
  5. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  6. Hello, I recently bought some OH10 (they were out of OH6) and was told I could just fire at cone 6 and everything would be fine. Then I was told the pieces wouldn’t vitrify and would be too porous for use (mugs and bowls). The studio will bisque the OH10 for me and asked if I have my own cone 10 glazes. The question is, can I fire my cone 6 glazes on the cone 10 bisqued pieces? Thank you for the help! Josh
  7. Hey guys! I'm looking to make a sink basin for my bathroom in the upcoming months. I want to use Standard Ceramics 266 Dark Brown Clay with a turquoise/seafoam glaze on the interior while leaving the exterior bare. Attached is an idea of what I would like to do. I have never used a dark clay before, so I don't have experience to work off of and can't make test tiles until it is safe to use the studio again. Would coating the inside of the clay with a white underglaze cause the blue glaze to stand out more? Does anyone have a good glaze suggestion that stands out and reacts well to this clay? Or does anyone have other suggestions for completing this project whether it be clay type, glaze, helpful tips, etc.? Thanks for all the help!!
  8. I’m on a really long and frustrating journey trying to find a glaze/clay match to avoid crazing. But why, time and time again, on YouTube and Instagram am I finding potters with high follower numbers and ‘JUST SOLD OUT ETSY RESTOCK’ posts who are advertising pots, which have clearly got crazing issues?? Is there a ‘generally accepted’ level of crazing one should expect? Is it ‘normal’ to hear your pottery ping when getting it out of the kiln then later pouring hot liquid in? I’ve been driving myself nuts, but it appears to not be as serious as I initially thought... am I wasting my time??
  9. Hello, I wanted to make some large ceramic sculptures, but I will need to cut them because they will not fit in my kiln. Does anyone know how I could conceal cut marks on the sculpture on glazed areas? Thanks, Callum
  10. Super newbie to the world of glazes. I have a few recipes from a trusted source, and upon recommendation I purchased several mason stains to add to a base glaze for an inexpensive and stable option. I used the super basic 20x5 base glossy glaze and added my stains to that as a trial. Some of them are great, but most of them are homogeneous in appearance. There's no variegation, it's not very interesting to look at. I'm wondering if there's something I can add to the 20x5 recipe, or a different clear glossy base glaze that would give the stains a more variegated appearance. Any help is appreciated!
  11. Hi all. Am having trouble with pinholes. I am using some commercial glazes and one glaze I mixed up from a recipe I found online. I clean my pieces very well before I glaze. I allow to dry before glazing, and leave them covered until glazing. I believe maybe it could be my one glaze recipe, or perhaps it could be the firing. I rent a space and the owner does the firings. He will not let anyone else fire and he blames all defects on you or your pots. Any help is so much appreciated. I am attaching a photo of a bad example of a glaze with a pinhole I got this firing. I saw where I could add flux, or remove zinc or rutile? Here is my recipe for floating blue cone 6 I used: Neph Sy - 45.2 Gerstley Borate - 24.5 Silica - 18.9 EPK Kaolin - 5.7 Whiting - 3.8 Talc - 1.9 Bentonite - 2 Rutile Flour - 4 RIO - 2 Cobalt Carb - 1
  12. From the album: Clay Tests

    © TJA 2020

  13. Hi there! I am wondering if someone could help me with converting this formula to use a different Feldspar. Possibly give me a good explanation as well.
  14. Newbie here. I started in November and have fired my kiln four times (2 bisque, two glaze) with pleasing results. I use Amaco Stoneware Clay 38. Typically I fire it to cone 7 (I was shooting for cone 6, but my kiln fires hot). Recently I found this info connected to the clay I buy: "Bisque fire to Cone 04 (1971°F, 1077°C). The firing range is Cone 5–10 (2205°–2381°F), and the recommended glaze firing is Cone 10 (2381°F). At Cone 5 (2205°F), shrinkage is 13% and absorption is 7%. At Cone 10 (2381°F), shrinkage is 15%, absorption is 1.4%, and the clay fires white in oxidation and gray in reduction, both delicately peppered with darker gray spots." So my question is this: What does "recommended" mean to the fired pieces I've already made? Should I change my firing range to high, rather than mid level? What about the cone 6 glazes I've been using? If I begin to fire at cone 10, should I still use the Amaco cone 6 glazes? What does cone 6 vs cone 10 mean in terms of glaze usage? ...and is it even necessary to change courses? TIA
  15. Hi! I was running a cone 5 glaze with my skutt electric kiln and forgot to turn on my enviro vent. When I realized it was already finished and at 500F. I have the KMT so was able to see a graph of the firing which looked fine, but it did fire in 4 hrs instead of the regular 13hrs. What problems could this cause ??? Could this hurt my kiln for future firings? Vent is on now and another fan in the studio cause it definitely smells. Thanks!
  16. Long time listener, first time caller here. I love the Turquoise Matte glaze from Coyote, but it isn't food safe. If I used a food safe glaze on the body of the mug could I still use the matte glaze on the handle or should I keep all glaze on the mug food safe?
  17. I’m looking for a good stable cone 6 crawl for use with Mason stains. The crawls with Mag Carb and Nepheline Syenite tend to burn out some colours at cone 6. Thinking that some Frit 3124 substituted for some of the Feldspar might do it but any pointers would be appreciated.
  18. Hi, I am new to ceramic glazing. Are there any methods that can duplicate fire-based glazing on ceramics? I work at home, so i do not have access to kiln. I have read there are oven-based glazes and non-fire based glaze. How effective are they in terms of the glaze (will it be similar to fire glazed plate)? Thank You.
  19. I'm looking for some commercial glazes that show up nice and bright on Laguna's electric brown clay body.. light greens or blues, maybe even some pastel pinks or purples? Any suggestions? I've got enough options for darker, more natural looking glazes but want to expand to something lighter, brighter, cheerier...
  20. I have been wandering from years ,talked with many pottery experts but haven't got anything closest to yohem tenmoku glaze recipe, So is there anyone who can help me out to figure it how these wonderful bowls are done .
  21. Hey I have tried to paint already glazed tiles with ceramic paint( it's paint for hobby ex.pebeo paint for ceramics and porcelain) and bake it in 250C. The result is ok but not secure for using these tiles on a bathroom or a kitchen ( the paint will faint after a while without glaze). Would you suggest me to use glazed paintings instead? What’s your experience with them?
  22. Hey everybody! Brand new member but seasoned artist (to an extent). I have a very specific thought/question in mind that I cannot for the life of me find the answer to on google. I'm wanting to use some sort of high silica and/or high flux glaze to intentionally pool INSIDE the bottom of a bowl to make a sort of clear water effect. Would Shaner clear do just fine? or should I alter the recipe of some other clear glaze? Mix a whole new one? How thick can I make the glaze before it doesn't come out right? For best results should I pour it in layers or all at once? I fire at ^10 so high fire glazes is what I'm talking about. I've seen it done with crystallines but never just a standard low craze clear. Let me know what you got!
  23. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructor must have felt really bad for me, because as I was sticking the pieces back on the rack and deciding whether or not to trash them she came over and decided my stuff was special enough that we were going to try a risky operation, putting both pieces through both bisque firing and final firing despite them being glazed out of order. She says that the color won't be as consistent and you couldn't eat off of them (fine by me, because they're not dishes), but they should still stick together and come out okay. Before we try this, however, I wanted to take some initiative and research both the risks of this test and any alternatives. Despite my excellent googling skills, I haven't been able to find an article or forum topic specific enough to my situation, so I figured I'd start one myself. Any and all information you can give me will be useful. I just want to know what might happen if we try to fire this thing and/or if there are any other ways to save the work with less risk involved.
  24. Hello! I’ve heard that you can fire greenware with glaze up to cone 6 in one go- ive never done it myself though. Is this something that actually safe for the pottery? Do I need to do it in a specific way? Fire in a specific way? Any input would be much appreciated!
  25. Hi ! I am so glad I found this forum. I am trying to kick start a ceramic club. Here at our facility we have our Kiln room that is fully equipped, completed with endless amount of supplies. I really hit the mother load, however this room has not been utilized in ten(10) years or so. We have EVERYTHING, but nothing has an expiration date. I've been into ceramics since high school, unfortunately this is just something I am not familiar with. Most of our supplies are either Mayco or Duncan Bisque, I might call customer service to check with them about their under glazes, glazes, paints and such. But if you have any tips, advice on anything that might help. We have our kiln that is practically brand new it just needs love. Also does anyone know if porcelain or earthenware that has been here that long is still good to use and if so how to give it life. I know this is a lot, any help is welcomed thank you in advanced
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