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Found 244 results

  1. Hey everybody! Brand new member but seasoned artist (to an extent). I have a very specific thought/question in mind that I cannot for the life of me find the answer to on google. I'm wanting to use some sort of high silica and/or high flux glaze to intentionally pool INSIDE the bottom of a bowl to make a sort of clear water effect. Would Shaner clear do just fine? or should I alter the recipe of some other clear glaze? Mix a whole new one? How thick can I make the glaze before it doesn't come out right? For best results should I pour it in layers or all at once? I fire at ^10 so high fire glazes is what I'm talking about. I've seen it done with crystallines but never just a standard low craze clear. Let me know what you got!
  2. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructor must have felt really bad for me, because as I was sticking the pieces back on the rack and deciding whether or not to trash them she came over and decided my stuff was special enough that we were going to try a risky operation, putting both pieces through both bisque firing and final firing despite them being glazed out of order. She says that the color won't be as consistent and you couldn't eat off of them (fine by me, because they're not dishes), but they should still stick together and come out okay. Before we try this, however, I wanted to take some initiative and research both the risks of this test and any alternatives. Despite my excellent googling skills, I haven't been able to find an article or forum topic specific enough to my situation, so I figured I'd start one myself. Any and all information you can give me will be useful. I just want to know what might happen if we try to fire this thing and/or if there are any other ways to save the work with less risk involved.
  3. Hello! I’ve heard that you can fire greenware with glaze up to cone 6 in one go- ive never done it myself though. Is this something that actually safe for the pottery? Do I need to do it in a specific way? Fire in a specific way? Any input would be much appreciated!
  4. Hi ! I am so glad I found this forum. I am trying to kick start a ceramic club. Here at our facility we have our Kiln room that is fully equipped, completed with endless amount of supplies. I really hit the mother load, however this room has not been utilized in ten(10) years or so. We have EVERYTHING, but nothing has an expiration date. I've been into ceramics since high school, unfortunately this is just something I am not familiar with. Most of our supplies are either Mayco or Duncan Bisque, I might call customer service to check with them about their under glazes, glazes, paints and such. But if you have any tips, advice on anything that might help. We have our kiln that is practically brand new it just needs love. Also does anyone know if porcelain or earthenware that has been here that long is still good to use and if so how to give it life. I know this is a lot, any help is welcomed thank you in advanced
  5. I fired a sculpture using 2 coats of low fire O with one coat of A on top. The results where muddy. I would like to refire it. It turned out brown when it should have had more turquoise. What would happen if I put a thick coat of O 66 on top?
  6. Hi, I am a VERY amateur artist but I like to experiment with clay and sculpting. I recently used Sculpey oven-bake clay to create a bowl (flat at the bottom, more like a mug without handles haha). I applied 2 coats of Sculpey gloss glaze all over. It was pretty successful so I’m now inspired to make some mini teacups! My bowl is waterproof due to the glaze, but would hot water ruin the teacups/glaze in any way? Thank you so much!
  7. Has anyone tested Spectrum's new Metallic Gold Rain? I would like to try it on a sculpture but need to pay shipping to test. I assume it doesn't actually look like the promotional test tile- but I'm looking for something stunning!! Thanks!!
  8. I have two pieces and am applying underglaze on top of glaze. Will it work? First piece is Laguna Ward's Red Cone 06 earthenware with cone 06 clear glaze (already fired.) Trying to fix something, so I added some underglaze and plan to add more cone 06 clear glaze. Do you recommend two firings -- one for the new underglaze, one for the additional clear glaze? Second piece: Laguna White B-Mix Cone 10 with cone 6 clear glaze (already fired.) Again, trying to fix something, so I added underglaze and plan to add Cone 6 clear glaze to the new underglazed bits. Do you recommend two firings -- one for the new underglaze (maybe at low-fire 06 level) and then high-fire cone 6 for the clear glaze? Thank you for your thoughts. Susan
  9. Recently tried to make this glaze (snowflake #4) but it turned out very weird and matte and almost chalky
  10. Looking for a recipe similar to this one, from an article by Norm Stuart. I downloaded the files but they didn't contain the recipe for this image. I've been searching far and wide for textured glazes for nearly a year. I have tested marilee's lava, pinnel, John's beads, sprayed on engobe, etc. If anyone has a technique or recipe that would yield the texture of this photo, PLEASE share. I have dozens of bisqueware waiting to get enveloped in sweet sweet texture
  11. Does anyone have a simple clear gloss recipe that you love for cone 6 ox suitable for clear and color? Simple, stable and preferably cheap. Same for matte surface. Prefer a soft satin matte, not too dry. Thanks!
  12. A friend of mine and I were having a discussion about my horsehair raku pottery and how much he liked my work. He told me he had his folks' ashes in cardboard boxes on a shelf in his garage and was wondering if I'd be interested in making a couple of horsehair Raku urns for him...incorporating some of the ashes in or on the finished piece. I can't see where or how I'd be able to put the ashes ON the finished piece but thought that it might be possible to incorporate the ashes into the clay body itself, either wedging the ash into the clay or possibly pressing the ashes into the surface of the wet jars before drying and firing the pieces. On another tack, he was wondering if it would be possible to mix some of the ashes into a glaze and firing the pieces that way. Since ash glazes tend to run when fired, he suggested glazing the bottom of the pots and firing them upside down so the drips would run UP the pot when sitting right side up. (This suggestion is something I plan to experiment with in my regular pottery work...) I don't have enough experience with clay and glaze chemistry to even have an idea of how to go about this and would appreciate any suggestions that might help with this project. In the research that I've started I found that the basic composition of human ash is as follows with the percentages of the primary components. Anything below .01% is not included: Phosphate 47.5% Calcium 25.3% Sulfate (Sulphate) 11.00% Potassium 3.69% Sodium 1.12% Chloride 1.00% Silica 0.9% Aluminum Oxide 0.72% Magnesium 0.418% Thanks, JohnnyK
  13. Hi! I’ve recently been doing a lot of experiments with clay deposits I’ve found as well as other found materials used in clay or glazed. I’ve been doing a lot of testing with wedging a lot of coarse granite into my clay. It makes it rough to throw with but my hands are tough enough it doesn’t bother me. I’ve usually been applying a found quartz and wood ash glaze that I’ve formulated to these pieces at cone 6 (lots of GB). The glaze gives a nice amber finish and seems to be helping the granite flux as it runs a bit giving nice variation, colour, and texture. My current test are going to include wedging the granite into a clay I found that can be fired up to cone 6 and I’m excited for these results. Does anyone have any tips regarding granite being added to clay, good glaze combos with found rough granite filled textures, other good experiments with found materials, etc?? Thanks! Matt
  14. I'm in a bit of a quandary regarding saggar firing. I'd really love to try it, but here's the thing. From what I've read on internet saggar can't be used on functional ware. I've thrown a tall lidded pot and a bud vase/oil holder and I think they both would look really great with the effects of saggar. My question is - having been thrown in stoneware, bisqued to 960 deg C, how would glazing on the inside be affected by saggar firing. I know if I leave unglazed the pot can be used to store spaghetti etc ie. non porous items but the oil pot would not be food safe. If I glaze with earthenware glaze and fire to about 1100 (electric kiln) what's the possibility of the saggar affecting the inside? (my idea is to glaze and saggar fire at the same time) Or should I glaze fire with stoneware glaze to 1200 first? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
  15. Can a glaze expert answer this? What are the crystals in those commercial glazes? I want to experiment with my own, but I don't know where to begin. After rinsing the crystals in the commercial glazes, they appear to be broken glass, but surely that's not it. Can someone illuminate this for me? I'm a novice at making my own glazes... Thank you!
  16. Hello, I’m new to ceramics and have been working with some mid-fire porcelain clay as well as white earthenware clay. I made several hundred small jewellery pieces from both clays and had them bisque fired at a local kiln service. Unfortunately they combined all my work together and now I don’t know which is porcelain and which is white earthenware, soI don’t know which clear glaze to use on which piece. Might anyone be able to give me some advice about what I could do? Are these pieces salvagable or bound for the bin?
  17. I have just started making my own glazes, I purchased the raw materials and I used my friend’s hood in her lab to mix up some of the glazes. I have bisqued pieces and the first coat of the glaze went on easily, BUT when I went to apply the the second coat it dried almost as quickly as the brush touched the pot, making it nearly impossible to apply a second coat. It was as if the glaze crystalized upon touching like in a supersaturated solution, but the glaze was well mixed and not supersaturated. This was with “Tin Foil II” and “MFE Turnidge”. I did not wait long between coats… Any ideas would be appreciated.
  18. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  19. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  20. I have 3 cups that I over-glazed and almost got stuck to the kiln . I was wondering if there was any way I could get it off some of the excess post-firing. Can I rub some of it off with sandpaper? Any suggestions?
  21. Hello, is anyone working in Seoul Korea? I'm trying to speed up my work process but due to lack of resources here in Seoul, it's really hard to find alternative chemicals and glazes to buy here. Could anybody living in Seoul share some tips and helpful information...? (I'm korean but lived and studied ceramics in the States! ) Thank you!
  22. I'm looking for help with a recent glaze issue. I've been using the same clay and white glaze for a couple of years. Now, all of a sudden, I'm getting tiny black specks in the glaze, and it's ruining the clean look I'm trying to achieve. I've used different batches of my perfered clay and glaze, installed new elements, throughly vacuumed the kiln, kept my bisqueware clean. I don't know what else to do to, and don't know what's causing the black specks. Does anyone have any insight on this issue?
  23. I really like this light blue glaze and looking to make something similar. Has anyone seen a similar glaze? What are some good glaze sellers in Europe?
  24. Hi! My previous studio had a beautiful cone 6 glaze called Blue Hares, I'm trying to purchase it since my new studio doesn't have it but all I'm finding is how to mix it yourself. Anyone know if it's possible to buy it online and if so where? Thanks!
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