elaine clapper

If it is a Skutt kiln, they have great tutorials on their website. You also have to have the correct wiring for your kiln. Hopefully you checked with your school maintanence people before getting the kiln. If not, the voltage amp info should be listed on the outside of the kiln. Are there other art teachers in the area that might be able to help you? good luck

When I was teaching high school I was just always dusty, it was a given. But I did have a student who kept a set of mechanics overalls he put on over his clothes when it was his day on the wheel. That was the best overall solution.

I would be interested in seeing ideas on teapots, fuctional and decorative.

I have had some success with brushing on one coat of underglaze, let that dry ( takes a long time to dry) and then redipping the glaze. It is still 50/50 chance but if the piece is unusable...

When submitting jury slides, what is the correct way to note the dimensions? ZAPP always asks for width, height, depth.. never positive...... if I should include the handles, spouts or knobs. For example, on a teapot : do you measure height from the top of the knob to the base? the width from the tip of the spout to the widest point of the handle? depth is obvious the widest point of the the piece. What I refer to as my 6" teapot refers to the main body which is 6" x 6" x 6", should it 10" w x 6.5" h x 6" d ? When I have a slide with a teapot set ( teapot and 4 small japanese style teacups) how do you note dimensions? just zero for NA ........ or am I just thinking to hard about this?

I dip my plates vertical, using a split bucket meant for mops. Then you have a deep narrow bucket that can be filled with less glaze. You can also consider doing something different on the edges. You can apply glaze with a brush just on the rims, then wax over the brushed rim. The waxed rim gives you have a place to hold the plate.

I have always been unsure about the whole "tax" thing. Since retiring from art education in 2012 I started selling my pottery at a few art festivals and and a local gallery. I am very small potatoes just taking in $6,000-$7,000 a year. I have just used TurboTax and claimed my clay income and expenses as a "hobby". Since clay does not keep a roof over my head I assummed it was a hobby rather than a part time business.... but can not find info that specifically supports this. What to other part timers do?

thanks

I started using a hydrometer when I was teaching ceramics at the high school level. With so many students using the glaze it was a good way to teach them the importance of consistancy. I still use the hydrometer at my home studio (force of habit). I use Amaco Potter's Choice glazes that are shipped in powdered form so I do not measure the raw materials. I have learned through trial and error my favorite cone 6 glaze works best when the hydrometer is always at the same reading. I just use the hydrometer in the 5 gallon bucket of glaze that I use for dipping. If the glaze is not deep enough in the bucket, I use a narrow plastic pitcher. My glazes often sit for 4-6 weeks in between glazing sessions so I test with the hydrometer each time I start a new glazing session. Works for me.

I just received an email from the small gallery that sells my functional pottery. My price points range from $20 to $90. The gallery owner wanted to let me know a customer reached for something on the top shelf, it dropped on the glass shelf which broke and cascaded down breaking several of my pieces. The customer said they will pay. The gallery owner wants me to come in, look at the damage and set a price. What is the norm? full price for all pieces that I can sell? discount percentage if it is a large number of items? if only the lid is broken on a canister just charge for the lid??? I have worked with this gallery owner since 2012 and she has always been great. I do not want to damage my relationship with the gallery. The gallery charges me $35 a month plus 20% of my sales which I think is great. I live in north central Ohio and there are not that many venues available to sell my work. I have never had this issue before, just looking for some advice....

I taught ceramics at the high school level for 20 plus years. My first wheel at the high school in 1989 was an old brent kick wheel someone found at an auction. I then I bought two Brent CXC wheels. I retired in 2012 but all three wheels are still there and going strong.

it is the bluetooth wireless Square Chip Reader. i ordered it when they first came out. Received it on 12/31/15 but did not use it until just recently. I only do two art festivals one in Sept and one in Dec. The rest of the year I take my work to a gallery in Columbus, OH and let them deal with point of sale. Mea, I am sure your volume of transactions per day is higher that probably takes a toll on how long the charge lasts.

Used my Square Chip Reader for the first time at the Art & Apples Art Festival, Rochester Michigan last weekend. After reading a lot a unsatisfactory comments about chip readers I was pleasantly surprised. Other than needing a few minutes to connect on the first sale it was just fine. It is slower than the swipe reader but that is the same in any of the established retail stores as Macy's.... This festival is in small town city park. There is very good cell phone reception through out the park. In a more remote area it may be different. On Saturday, the second day of the show, we had to close down abruptly because of weather. In the rush I left my chip reader in the tent over night. I had planned to recharge all my digital devices each evening. On Sunday I was relieved to find the chip reader was still charged and held the charge all day. I have been using Square with my IPad for three years and been happy with the point of sale and the report data available to me.

Next week I will be trying out my square chip reader for the first time. Last year at this show no problems with cell phone reception and the swipe Square reader worked great. Some of your comments have me nervous about using the chip reader. I will let you know after the show .........?

I just glazed fired a very nice lidded casserole pot. Love the shape, love the glaze, lid fits nicely.... but a small hairline crack on unglazed underside of the lid. Tried to grind it out.... the hairline crack is now a nice little round divot. about 1/8" wide and 1/8" deep. Too deep to grind smooth. I can not think of any material that I could fill in the divot that would be food safe. Any Ideas? Unfortunately I am sure the best answer is to just make a new lid. But just thought I would throw it out there.