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elaine clapper

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About elaine clapper

  • Birthday 02/22/1954

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    http://elaineclapperceramics.com

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  • Location
    BELLVILLE, OHIO
  • Interests
    clay, nature, perennial gardening, dogs, photoshop, working out

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  1. Drying upside down as soon as the rim is strong enough for support seems to work best for me.
  2. Patience is a virtue. I wait until room temperature. I taught ceramics at the high school for 20 years. I learned the hard way not give in to the students that were dying to open the kiln as soon as possible. If we unloaded too early there were often very hairline crackles in the glaze that might did not show up until much later. I am sure if depends on your glaze. In my home studio I wait for room temperature even if I have a deadline.
  3. As others have mentioned it also looks like you need to check the elements on your kiln and use cones to check temp. Your images look like the glaze is underfired. Your firing times do seem long. If I go much longer than 8 or 10 hours on my Skutt kiln, I know I it is time to check the elements. I have worked with PC glazes for years and love them. I am sure the type of clay you makes a difference but this is what works me.... I use laguna Bmix clay bisque fired to cone 04. That is a higher temp than your bisque firing and might help eliminate gases escaping clay during glaze firing. I generally layer the glazes with dipping. Glaze fire to cone 6 with a 5 minute temp hold at the end. If you are interested look at my website, everything is done with Potter's Choice glazes.
  4. I am going to try putting waterproof bandaides on the top knuckles of my throwing hand. We will see if that works. That for the commiseration, misery does love company!
  5. Does anyone get bumps, calluses or blisters on the knuckle of throwing hand? I guess I must drag my knuckle on the bat as I am centering. Never noticed it hurting. I have been throwing for 20 years, but this has only been happening in the last year. Anyone have any ideas to treat to prevent this? Maybe just getting old? I am 66, but I heard the 60's are the new 40's. Stopping my work on the wheel is not going to happen.
  6. "is that the domed lid shrinks MORE because it shrinks in a dome shape, whereas the casserole only shrinks in one direction." Thanks liambesaw , I have always been disappointed that my domed teapot lids do not fit tighter. Now I know why and can make adjustments.
  7. Liambesaw, I am curious... if I glaze fire a piece at cone 6 and then refire at cone 04 (my bisque firing), will the surface still be good for dinnerware?
  8. Yesterday my husband and I successfully replaced all the elements in my Skutt KM-1027 kiln. Unfortunately we chipped some of the firebrick as the old elements were brittle and tough to remove. Photos attached. Do I need to repair those chips? if so what do you use to repair (kiln cement? what type?). I saved the chips that came out. Thank for your help.
  9. I fire cone 5 with and electric kiln, leave all the plugs in and wait until the kiln is room temperature. i put too much time into my pieces to ruin the glaze just because of my impatience. When I was teaching, the kids who procrastinated and did not get their work in on schedule where up against grade deadlines. I would warn them if I opened the kiln early they risked fine cracks in the glaze. The times that I gave in and unloaded at 120 degrees almost ended with the "pings" of cracking glaze.
  10. I use Potter's choice glazes a lot and been very happy with the results. I apply by dipping and layering. If you brush the glaze and and don't get enough coats on that could be the cause of the problem. I have not used Palladium but have used Ancient Jasper and Deep Red with great results.
  11. Question: How do I slow down the cooling process with my electric kiln? I am using cone 6 glaze, a kiln sitter and venting from below. I want to hold the top temp longer but the kiln sitter turns it off... should I turn off the venting fan when I reach temp? It would still be vented to the outside but just not run the fan?

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