Hulk

Wedge, aye. Right out of a fresh bag (a well sealed actually fresh-oh bag), perhaps not, perhaps... The last bit of clay I got, two bags seemed fresher than t'others; they were softer and more homogenous - likely right out of the bag would have been ok. The other bags, not so much. Even a slight variation in consistency makes things harder! Looks to me that the clay flows in direction opposite to rotation of the wheel. Anywhere the flow slows down (to go around a bubble, around a blob or bit, around a less wet bit...), there's a thickening spot; anywhere the flow speeds up (wett

Aye, was guessing the potters in question didn't have the carbonate form to start with.

From Tony Hansen's site: "The carbonate is produced from a liquid reaction between cobalt II acetate and sodium carbonate to produce red violet crystals that are recovered by filtration. The material is insoluble in cold water but will decompose in hot water." A bit of math to determine which gets more blue per dollar (oxide or carbonate) - which I skipped, as the carbonate form may be less prone to spotting, due to smaller particle size (typically). Perhaps Jeff's coworker was referring to roasting cobalt oxide to get the less dense oxide? From Tom Buck's clayart (pottery.org)

Wow, those bricks look good, the (visible portion) lid looks good as well. Have there been brick replacements (different colours)? That would be a good sign. And a pyrometer setup, wow II. Is there furniture as well? Maybe an EvenHeat? Those metal swinging peep doors could be a clue. If so, the detail plate (on right side of red box, maybe) would indicate. Search images, e.g. "Evenheat kiln for sale used" - note the peep covers. Post an update please!

Hi Shinigami! By "...then sintered..." do you mean pressureless sintering - high temperature only? If so, what does your firing profile look like (time and temperature)? The materials, would you describe them as metallic powders (hence, not ceramic)? Any road, in pottery, the water is trapped enough such that pressure may be generated as the water changes phase; perhaps your material allows moisture to escape as vapour without significant lag time (hence pressure). What ingredients in the sprayed binder (are they soluble in water)? The warped parts, were they subject t

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Aye that. Per Michaela C's post here Gearbox help for an old Amaco 1-101 - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community, the original motor is AC (alternating current); they changed out the motor (very likely a DC motor), and used a sewing machine foot pedal to control it (but the wheel head rotated too slowly, hrrm). It is possible to precisely control AC motor speed and power. My guess is that pottery wheel makers are using DC motors (typically, brushed motors) and controllers for several reasons, which may include cost, simplicity, performance (particularly in relation

Bill, perhaps the lighting - they are about the same shiny. The gloss does diminish some over the red slip, however. I'm liking this scrap glaze ...will replace with a higher res image later on.

Looks like the handle portion is down, bristles up - handle used to maintain the opening?

The wood and paint remaining - likely produce volumes of smoke. Might be possible to cut off the ferrule, leaving enough materiel to grasp with a plier; drill a small hole down the center of the handle, beyond the pinch point; drill out a larger hole, following the first; grasp the handle with a plier, crushing the handle a bit. Ah, hence "Might be possible..." for any outward force could break your green ware. I'd try for drilling the handle out enough such that a parallel grasp with needle nose pliers crushes two narrow bits inward, hence the subsequent grasp has somewhere to go, if you

More Lakeside Clear Blue, from yesterday's glaze fire White stoneware. All three have some chatter marking (filled with glaze, wiped back and allowed to dry before dipping); the bowl has a band of red slip; the mug has some underglaze.

Manual posted here Anyone Have A Really Old Creative Industries Model Mp Wheel? - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community ...not much help on bearing replacement, however. Analysis and disassembly, as Neil has suggested, eh?

Just wanted to echo on watching cones. If possible, place a cone where you can see it through a peep. Try moving it to where you can see the profile of the cone, paint that side with a thin line of iron oxide, use the small cone - it's smaller! Just note, the small cone bend is a few degrees offset from the large - depending on the cone number. For watching live heat work, it's not enough difference to be concerned with, unless doing very narrow/specific heat objective stuff. The smalls are also cheaper - not by much (can ship for less though, heh). Glasses, rated for yellow hot kiln

interesting! Iron Oxides - International Association of Color Manufacturers (iacmcolor.org)

Hi Peter! The vessel isn't water tight - perhaps cracks, pits, micro fractures in the glaze allow water through, and the clay, unfortunately, may not be sufficiently dense/non-porous/vitrified to prevent seepage. I'm not finding reading on the clay, glazes, and processing that are typical in that part o' the world. These books may be illuminating Potteries of Rye: 1793 Onwards by Carol Cashmore Rye Pottery In The Fifties by Woolley (Author) Cinque Ports - A coastal area in England Monastery Pottery - A pottery there Cinque Ports Pottery (studiop