Jump to content

Hulk

Moderators
  • Posts

    2,224
  • Joined

  • Last visited

7 Followers

About Hulk

  • Birthday October 13

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    TeeCeramic.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    : Chico, CA
  • Interests
    Pizza, swimming, cycling, reading, puttering ...and ceramics

Recent Profile Visitors

6,236 profile views

Hulk's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)

2k

Reputation

  1. Good question! Brushing/brushable glaze might spray ok. Sprayed coating, we want the material to "wet" the surface, lay down flat, stay put (not run/drip) ...and somewhat else I'm not remembering just now. If you give it a try, let us know how it goes?
  2. Good question! If temporary, a large vinyl flooring remnant could be an option? Where the edges are well away from the activity, a damp mop makes cleaning up easy. If the edges turn up at the wall/baseboard (wall to wall!), then doing something at the door(s) to mitigate the tripping hazard remains. If permanent, vinyl might still be an option, but putting something flat, dense, and smooth under is likely required.
  3. Cowley Double Drive, hmm, made in New Zealand? "Double" - perhaps on account of familiar cone and drive ring speed is reduced by pulleys and belt to the wheel head shaft... Which model? ...there may be a model and serial number somewhere. Here's an "Operating Manual" dated 2018 cowley_wheel_manual.pdf (bathpotters.co.uk) Newer manual includes parts diagram and list, alas, no wiring diagram MASTER Pottery Wheels Owners Manual Jan 2024.pdf (wsimg.com) The vendor (firedupkilns) may be able to help, however.
  4. A few Artista threads; there are at least three long time Forum regulars who own(ed) and use(d) an Artista: Artista Potter's Wheel Question - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community Speedball Artista Potters Wheel - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community Speedball Artista Pottery Wheel - Good Or Not ? - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
  5. I've a particle board "bat" just thick enough to cover the pins for trimming*. I'm using clay to hold the wares in place - rather a lot, for I need both hands to use trimming tools; the right wants to be in charge (control) but needs the left for support**. I grab a handful, for it will need re-wetting throughout the session. For narrow topped wares, there's an (ever growing) collection of tapered vessels to set the ware in, which I then fix to the "bat" with clay. ...so far, each time I think it's time to fashion a chuck, I've found somewhat else that will work. Much as a Giffin Grip would seem ideal for me, I'm accustomed to my process. So far, I think of somewhat else I'd rather have for the $... *which eliminates the striking hazard of bare bat pins... **Oh, they (hands) work, just not the same as they were decades ago. Our adaptations/workarounds, we (err, I) become accustomed and don't always notice "what's missing" if it's not right in front of us!
  6. Good question. ASTM article (formerly $48) https://www.astm.org/c1607-12r20.html Mr. Hansen's article Microwave Safe (digitalfire.com) A Forum thread on the subject: Microwave safe. - Clay and Glaze Chemistry - Ceramic Arts Daily Community The ASTM article may include a standard/industry definition, idk. This is where I am with it: "...not melt or otherwise lose form, not leach bad stuff, not get too hot to touch after one minute in the waver [microwave oven] ...anything that gets more than pleasantly warm (empty, clean) is not microwave safe...!" I still have microwave test clean dry wares on my "to do" list. I have an inexpensive infrared thermometer now...
  7. I'm using a white stoneware, IMCO "DC 3-5" ...of the several white stoneware clays I've tried, my glazes fit it; the others*, I had crazing. How suitable it is for large forms? ...it's fine for as large as I go. It does dry well, in that it holds its shape and is less prone to cracking than many others. *My glazes fit one other white stoneware I've tried, Clay Planet's "Venus White" - IMCO is closer, and we go by there several times a year...
  8. Hi SacredDrop, Welcome to the Forum! The motor might need a clean up, and/or new brushes? ...could have a bad switch, faulty winding (particularly if the two speeds are achieved via two separate windings)? Identifying and correcting the problem(s) might extend the life of the motor*. Finding an electric motor shop that can help - I see there are several in the Boise area - might take some looking and luck. Can the motor be repaired? Is it worthwhile? From Boise Electric Motor Repair webpage: "We repair pumps and motors of any kind." *the sparking and heat (and hence, smells) may reduce the life of the motor...
  9. Was catching up on foot polishing, washing, and inspection this week, then took a few new pictures.
    I like this teapot. It pours well too!

     

    DSCN2051.JPG

    1. Denice

      Denice

      Nice looking teapot,   does it pore well?   I have trouble with pouring,  they look good but are nonfunctional     Denice

    2. Hulk

      Hulk

      Hi Denice!
      Yes, it does pour well - not ideally perfect, but well.
      I've been working on what makes a spout pour well. If I'm able to demonstrate what is effective and why, I'll then submit my findings for publication and (whether it gets published or not) share my findings here on the Forum.

  10. A glaze that is close to crazing, or crazes only a little - the crazing will be worse by putting the glaze on thickly. That's my understanding and experience but putting on a thin layer mostly masks the problem, where the crazing will come along later, starting in the thicker parts and spreading as time marches on. When I was re-formulating to eliminate crazing, several times I thought we had done it, but crazing began to appear ...the next day, after a few days, after a week! With a good fit, the thick parts don't craze, the glaze withstands temperature extremes and months - years - of daily use. Firing higher, I don't know, good question. Would the glaze and/or clay COE change from having more heat work? Perhaps some others have experience/knowledge and will weigh in. Crazing can look nice! When it's not a functional flaw, isn't it "crackle" glaze?
  11. I prefer some IR Comp - where it's helping but some throttle is required to hold rpm - so I tweaked it up a smidgle. That said, I felt comfortable with feathering the pedal without it; I just like it. The persons I bought my wheel from had bought it from Clay King ...I see they have green Classic and green Professional available today. If I were shopping new, I'd be looking for what beats that 1/3 hp Classic. I like, uhm, really like the cast splash pan. I like the ssx drive, but the standard is fine for me. If upgrading, I'd choose it over the horsepower bump though.
  12. Good question. The larger motors may be louder - or they may be quieter under the same load? Someone with direct experience may yet weigh in... From what I've read, Skutt wheels are noisier than similarly rated competitor's wheels; I don't know that to be a fact... I like my Skutt, a lot! It was much louder in clockwise than counter clockwise, at first; it's quieted down with use. Previous experience limited to Brent A,B,C and CXC models at the Junior College ceramic lab. I liked them all just fine, but didn't give the A model much of a test... The noise level varied quite a bit; all had been used a lot, for a long time. Added: Skutt support has a good reputation; you might ring them during business hours and ask them!
  13. Hi Dot, Welcome to the Forum! Crazed wares, almost certainly weaker*, and liquids can be a concern, particularly where the fired clay's absorption rate is "high"... For sculpture (and other non-food ware), however, crazing may be ok? Reversing crazing, that may not be possible. My understanding is that crazing occurs when the clay and glaze COE** are different enough, and that can only be corrected by changing the glaze and/or clay. If the clay matures at a higher cone (than 04, in your case), the fit may change when fired higher, but not necessarily a better fit! Check back for more responses... *A well fitted glaze makes for stronger ware **Coefficient Of Expansion Co-efficient of Thermal Expansion (digitalfire.com) see also Mr. Hansen's articles on glaze crazing, glaze fit, glaze compression
  14. ! That was my choice as well, excepting the vent, as I retained the vent from prior kiln setup... Moving from fully manual to three zone numeric control ...oh, how I like the sound of clicking relays!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.