Jump to content

Hulk

Moderators
  • Posts

    2,382
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Hulk

  • Birthday October 13

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    TeeCeramic.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    : Chico, CA
  • Interests
    Pizza, swimming, cycling, reading, puttering ...and ceramics

Recent Profile Visitors

7,277 profile views

Hulk's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)

2.2k

Reputation

  1. ,) We haven't bought from them yet; if we do, I'll follow up with a review. Sometimes, there's vendors that have great pricing. See, for example, D. Lawless Hardware for cabinet bits - hinges, pulls, etc.
  2. Good question! Well, I like it, on account of new L&L kiln, custom firing profile*, was also running hot, and set the target temp lower to correct, set it a bit lower, and then just a tiny bit lower, voilà! I'd thought my portable pyrometer would make duplicating the firing profile of my previous kiln easy, given the portable works same as before, which testing verifies. Now I believe that the difference is the cooling rate. The new kiln has thicker brick - it definitely takes longer to cool (the same amount, e.g. the first 100°F drop). ...and thus, there's more heat work! Does that make sense? Time and temperature. I hadn't considered the down ramp after peak. The upward ramp matches my notes. The portable pyrometer appears to "speak" truth, so. *based on my notebook, where I'm trying to replicate the firing profile of my previous - all manual - kiln.
  3. The wares I have a relationship with are out in the Studio - "in" the raw clay, waiting on trimming, firing, glazing, et cetera. Once polished, inspected and dispositioned, that relationship is over. There are a few ceramic wares about the house that: were made by people we know - family and friends; Mom liked; we used as kids, dinnerware; were collected and treasured by others. So, we keep them. Of my wares, the ones my partner really likes, there's something special. There are many more that we use - mostly "seconds" and "blems" - and I like quite a few of them. Seems like there's always a "best of" - best pot ever (gone, sold), best pot of this firing, best pot in the Studio, best pot in the display... I'll try to see how and why a pot is "best," and leverage that in future. A recurring thought/image I have on this week's topic, where someone sees a ware, likes it, wants it, grasps it, often smiling, with a "it's mine" glow. ...makes it all worthwhile. Interesting how often the grasper went straight to the best pot. ! ...and how often the grasper is an active and accomplished artisan/artist themself. In contemplating this week's question, I'd widened the scope to "things" (objects) in general, as I just wasn't getting anywhere. My outlook may soften, with time. I'm just not feeling much of an attachment to things lately, perhaps on account of a disconcerting bout of rather extreme vertigo I had last week, heh, I thought "...this might be it!" and laughed at myself a bit, as I staggered to the edge of the swimming pool, so "they" wouldn't have to haul me off the bottom of the pool. Ah, glad to be alive, I am! Likely the twinges of dizziness and such I've been experiencing over the last several years is associated with BPPV*, which, apparently, was exacerbated by dehydration, exhaustion, heat, exercise, bright light, and rapid changes in position... *Benign paroxysmal positional vertigo, typically caused by particles in the inner ear fluids disrupting operations/functionality in there
  4. That wheel is "cone drive" model? ...where the speed is governed by a drive "cone" that is tapered, which runs against a thick plate which has a rubber drive ring around the edge. Adjustments might ameliorate the speed issues; check out the Troubleshooting docs at the link below. Likely that the ring is worn. Check the condition of the cone as well - smooth, no cracks or galling/damage. While you're into it, check the wheel shaft bearings, motor bearings, motor brushes... Here's a page that has manuals and commonly replaced parts, etc. RK-2 Parts – Krueger Pottery Supply note: I've deleted the duplicate post.
  5. I don't have craze reduction/elimination physical test history where MgO was the only change; in each case there was sodium and potassium change (less), and then introduction of lithium (via Petalite). The last adjustment in my liner glaze Odessey*, more lithium, boron, magnesium, Zircopax; tiny bits less of several other oxides. Lithium, powerful stuff. The software's calculated expansion coefficient, that's something! I'd done many many "trials" with the software, tweaking the ratios to see how the COE changes. ...and I do believe calculated COE can be helpful, especially when the change(s) are narrow/focused. I also believe the calculated COE can be misleading - where the results don't quite match up, especially when comparing very different recipes. *"last adjustment" - that was before the cost of Petalite went up and up! I have on my short list staring on a new liner glaze without Petalite...
  6. Baking paper, aka parchment paper? Yep, great stuff. btw, duplicate under Forum FAQ deleted, thanks Kelly
  7. Cool! Can you post the OEM config instructions? ...others may find helpful, in future.
  8. Hi khalil, Welcome to the Forum! If the ware can take slipping as a whole, then slipping the halves could work as well? You might set up tests - similar thicknesses, then approximate the forces - afore risking your large wares. I'd envisioned the large vases being cut in half vertically. :| On re-reading this morning (Pacific Daylight time!), ah, perhaps you are separating the vase along a horizontal feature? I've applied slip to a damp ware to the point where deformation occurs, oops! Variables: how thick the ware, how big/tall the ware*, how damp the ware, how wet the slip, how thickly the slip applied, slip on one or both sides at once, slip all over or just a portion... Check back for input from other Forum readers? Perhaps this "bump" will help... *with most everything else being equal, the larger version will slump sooner than a smaller one, for example i - pyrometric cones, the big ones slump about 9°F before the small ones ii - the larger wax candle will slump (from heat) afore the smaller one...
  9. Thanks Peter! Another Forum regular messaged that the link is not secure, aha! ...and so I'm able to load the page(s) by removing the "s" in https:// I hadn't noticed the browser is inserting the S!
  10. Curious, anyone getting the masteringglazes pages to load? I'm getting "404" error
  11. Hi Todd, Welcome to the Forum! Looks like Mark P hasn't been back to the Forum since posting. You might send them a message; hover over their avatar and select "Message" They'd entered Surrey, Great Britain for the Location field...
  12. Thanks Callie. The bloating, almost certainly having to do with mixing the two buff clays, both of which exhibited no bloating at all up to and beyond cone 6 on their own. Roberta, I'd meant to point out that the tiny white droplets are soft-ish - not as hard as sand granules; they crush easier. Min, not sure which it you refer to. The tiny white droplets (zoom in on the bare clay, the foot rim portion), that's unique in my (rather limited) experience. I've only seen them on the one buff clay, when fired over cone 5 or so. The bloating, I've seen that before, but not to this extent! I'd guess that there's somewhat out of sequence in the sintering/fusing when the clays are mixed together which produces the awesome bloating.
  13. I'm using 9999* w/o error, fwiw. See page 9 (and several others) Genesis Operation Manual 4-10-2024-web.pdf (hotkilns.com) *for "uncontrolled" drop to -100ºF from peak for the "healing up" hold. Perusing the logfile, interesting! All zeroes at the start of the hold, until the top segment was -20°F below the hold value, then it fired some, and three minutes later, the bottom fired, and finally, after fifteen minutes, the middle fired some as well to maintain the hold... ...for a controlled drop, an achievable value would be important, if all three segments are to ramp the same? From the hold to 1850°F, I'm ramping down 160°/hour, where the top and bottom kick in at first, and much later, the middle as well, to maintain the specified rate.
  14. INSTRUCTION MANUALS | Hot Kilns I like having the loose-leaf binder - I can write notes, cartoons, et cetera in thar! ...and the e version can be very handy for string searches (using search to find something) and for those times when I'm (actually!) too lazy to go get the binder...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.