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Everything posted by Hulk

  1. Hi Jamie, Try a .pdf reader? If you are running windows, Sumatra is free, simple, easy Free PDF Reader - Sumatra PDF (sumatrapdfreader.org) I can read the file ok. Likely you will be looking at disassembling the pedal and troubleshooting from there; good luck!
  2. Hi Emarie, Good question! How well does it run? ...is it smooth and fairly quiet, does the speed progress from just moving to full without hiccups (pedal response), does the foot pedal move easily/smoothly, does the wheel head turn without perceptible wobble/pulse, is the other half of the splash pan included, is the belt in good shape. That wheel has definitely been around for a loong time; it would have to be in very nice shape, else go for a low price. Great brand, high end model, looks like it has been used somewhat recently.
  3. That looks sturdy Tabathos! May I suggest knocking back (rounding off) those corners - quite a bit, like a 5 mm radius or so - against catching a leg (and any sharp edges as well).
  4. OP, I'm curious too, please post a video clip! If the shaft runs true, perhaps the wheel head is bent? I'm not finding an image depicting the underside of the casting; if it is not made with thick webs (see Brent wheel heads...), a bend may be possible, given a heavy enough impact. If so, better the wheel head bends than the motor shaft, eh? Regarding the thread Bill linked (above), I had set up a little test, concluding: "Seven thousandths o' vertical runout, ya, that'd bother me. Try propping up your favourite bat with a seven thousandths wedge? Deal Breaker Th
  5. I've gone wetter and jellier. My post, copied from Uneven dipped glaze application - Clay and Glaze Chemistry - Ceramic Arts Daily Community I'm having better dipping results after employing Tony Hansen's suggestions, here https://digitalfire.com/4sight/library/thixotropy_and_how_to_gel_a_ceramic_glaze_73.html I'm thinning my glazes (I have some white and light blue premix powders, the rest are mixed from raw ingredients in my studio) to ~1.41 to 1.47 specific gravity (I'm keeping notes on each glaze), then adjusting thixotropy with Epsom salts ...then, much easier to appl
  6. Interesting, the focus that departments/institutions take on - fine art vs craft brings to mind the the long down the nose toward programming/industry vs research and academics in the grad program ...all those years ago. I went to industry, way fun.
  7. Just happen to remember Mark posting 'bout them/these Bailey Thermal-Lite Kiln Shelves Cone 16 - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
  8. Hi Salt! Are there more craters where the wares have been trimmed, and/or where the clay is thicker? Looks like gasses from the clay, a bit cooler top/peak temp might help, quick drop from peak to -100F hold (I'll suggest a bit longer at -100F, then slow cool to 1850F) - per all aforementioned. A more thorough bisque might help as well, for perhaps there are large(r) bits of gassing stuff in thar?
  9. Hi Miriam! Your new wheel head has some scratches as well! Shimpo describes the wheel head as "...light alloy casting..." - likely an aluminum alloy, that is, not ferrous, hence the discoloration you are seeing not rust (the red scaly stuff we see on iron and some steels), perhaps a stain? Expect your wheel head to show signs of use as time goes on - as long is stays flat and true, and your bat pins (if you use them) aren't wobbly, go 'head on! Aluminum (and alloys of) will "rust" - however, the result is light/white fluffy stuff. Looks good so far!
  10. Hi Kate! Mixing your glazes well and keeping them well mixed whilst dipping - that's one variable. If there's any bits or chunks, sieve the glaze - that's another variable. How "wet" the glaze is - ratio of water to solid matter - can be expressed in terms of specific gravity: Specific gravity (digitalfire.com) I'm running between 1.39 to 1.47 (per my notes - keep notes!!) for the several glazes I use, mostly mixed from raw materials (I don't plan to buy any more premix, but do plan to use the premix I do have until gone - a powder blue, bad clear, and a matte white)
  11. Hi LBH! At minimum, provide support for that base such that it can't flex (fireproof support, naturally) - several threads on this forum on that topic. Typical advise is to place a sheet of metal between the kiln stand and the kiln base, however, sheet metal would have to be fairly thick to be of any real help, else the edges turned to provide rigidity... From there, typical setup is to place the first shelf just off the bottom, on half inch supports (vacuum the loose bits first). ...by a minute
  12. Hi Meredith! Congrats on your new kiln. The Vulcan black, does it require an 06 bisque and mature at cone 5/6? That's what I'm seeing here Vulcan Black Stoneware (Fine) 1200-1240C (potclays.co.uk) Note, cone values begin (at the low end) 022, and ascend in temperature to cone 01, then continue to cone 13. Typical stoneware bisque is around cone 06 to 04, then glaze is cone 5 to 6. Take a long look at a chart, e.g. Celsius Cone Chart (clay-planet.com) Black clays can be difficult! First, long slow bisque, with lots of oxygen is necessary to burn off some/most of the gunk ("
  13. One and a half thousandths thick, and sticks too! Please post back your results Lee.
  14. ok - shouldn't there be wear marks when said rod slides to and fro? ...oh, aye, accommodating as the angle flattens, right. Drive ring replacement, adjustment Microsoft Word - Replacing Drive Rings.docx (cromartiehobbycraft.co.uk) Is the rubber ring worn down to the point that the cone is rubbing on the wheel? Drive Rings for Potters Wheels - Cromartie Hobbycraft Limited
  15. Are there two pics Jen? The blue rod that's attached to the pedal moves the motor+cone relative to the drive wheel? Likely Neil is on to somewhat here - the connection pedal to rod appears wonky (also looks like there's been attempts to ameliorate same).
  16. With patience and attention, prescribed firing schedule may be achieved with a manual kiln, however, a pyrometer is almost required - I say "almost" because there are those who can judge temperature by color and possess lots of experience with their kiln/process/ware. I watch my pyrometer, flip switches, and take notes. Let me add here that I have adequate venting and safety gear.
  17. Hi Haddie, There have been several kilns listed on Government Surplus Auctions - govdeals.com in the last month - might be worth watching. Check Facebook marketplace, Craigslist, local ceramic supply bulletin boards, this forum... good luck! There's an Evenheat listed in Glendale Heights, appears to be in good condition (FB).
  18. On inside crazing, am seeing so many cases where ware is crazing on the inside when same glaze is on outside (as well as different glaze on the outside), and no crazing on the outside (also less crazing on the outside). I have theory, will test. I get what you're saying about usage Bill, I'm saying right out the kiln and within the next week or so, no usage. I do so love my hot coffee, aye! Rox, the numeric coe value of your glazes can be helpful, so can the coe of your clay, however, not all clay suppliers test for and publish coe, and, as you are seeing, commercial glazes aren't always
  19. I'd like to think a well fitting glaze (well fitted to a particular clay) allows some leeway in glaze thickness? A glaze that's close to a fit doesn't craze at all on the single dip portion of a test tile, but shows a few craze lines on the double dipped part after a few days, and perhaps about the same on the ware - some pieces show a few lines after a few days, most exhibit at least some crazing it time, and sensitive to a bit thick, where a good fit doesn't show any crazing on test tiles, particularly the double dipped portion, nor anywhere on the ware, excepting, perhaps, a very thick
  20. My small studio triples as a bike shop an' general workshop. I'd choose cycling over bat-mobiling, but I always did like Marvel over DC.
  21. Thanks for the write up! Great on the insulation, efficiency, wow. Maybe set up your bike shop where the batmobile would go...
  22. Fractal burning - one o' those activities that many back away from as quickly as safely possible. See mocha diffusion as another similar effect, somewhat safer category o' decoration. Ah
  23. Is that Michael Casson on th' cover of early edition The Potter's Dictionary of Materials and Techniques? I'm paging through my copy of Peterson's The Craft and Art of Clay again - lots of pictures and ideas in there. Her treatment of unity is the best (my opinion). I'm also looking at the Studio Potter magazine that Mark posted a link to (Summer/Fall 2008 - Thurston's article, in particular - will turn through alla pages tho', eventually), and since that's fun, will pick up where I left off paging through the dozen Ceramics Monthly .pdf files I've tucked away ...the oldest Oct65, ne
  24. ok! Esteem I hold for others' work has less to do with intended use than ...many other things. That said, soon, I'll be inna my fourth year of potting; looking back on the arc o' my progress, I anticipate another load of planters . Ware that have a nick, pit, crack, craze, crater, bloat, and/or don' look right (to me) get a hole drilled in them; I mix up some o' the sand with Kellogg's, wander about the yard gathering succulent cuttings, assemble, then tend'm for a several weeks until well rooted. From there, a few sell, some are given away, and the rest donated to a few outfits 'round he
  25. Hi Luu! Watch Craigslist, FB Marketplace, local clay supplier and studio bulletin boards, government auctions*, local classifieds, etc. - you may find a bargain; cast your net wide to get a feel for the market. Likely you'll find that many listings are overpriced ...might take a while to find somewhat. There's a Brent in Burtonsville, four hundred (FB), which may be reasonable, given it's sound - or doesn't need any major repair... There's a Bailey in Brookfield this a.m. for seven hundred, which may be reasonable if the unit is truly in "like new" condition (try "pottery wheel"
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