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Bill Kielb

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About Bill Kielb

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  • Location
    United States - Illinois
  • Interests
    All forms of constructionist pottery, education, analysis, design and repair as it pertains the ceramic arts community.

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  1. I hope that works out, I think it was from this forum so you could always try and message him. As far as patching, AP green patch (421) has been pretty popular for many potters for years. I have used it for crack fill and sealing up various holes and it has worked for me. I like Liam’s idea of insulation outside more than in but if you are wrapping over the metal I believe this will overheat the metal and maybe hasten it’s corrosion. Your method of operation will likely be the best way to keep the kiln pressurized and keep the air out so section breaks, minor holes not as much of a problem as you might think. Ap green patch 421 below, available in many ceramic supply shops. Oh to add if you buy a tub, mix in any liquid that comes with it, do not pour off. When you are done, thoroughly seal the container else it will cure rock hard on you. I know folks who set plastic on the top of the patch in the container and then put the cover on and thoroughly seal using a rubber mallet just to make sure so when they get back to using it, it will still be workable.
  2. If the mugs have a foot ring then by all means many folks glaze the inside or the foot. The very bottom of the foot will need to remain unglazed though. Liam is spot on with diamond pads. A super easy one that I have used is a fine diamond pad that comes glued to a batt. Throw it on the wheel, a tiny bit of water and you can make any foot smooth as glass and very flat with 30 seconds of grinding. Easy to do a whole set within minutes perfectly flat and smooth. Quick pic of glazed inside foot ring example below
  3. Just to mention when I search the materials database on Glazy it also shows similar materials as well as other language matches and ......... similar recipes. So for instance I can get the chem analysis for each frit but when I search 3124 I also get a mason stain recipe that someone has contributed. The materials database on this site is extensive from the admin of the site but allows contribution from the greater glaze community . Often it’s worth the search which is free BTW A couple examples below
  4. Yeah, My last comment as well. Bottom line there is no harm in informing them they might want to review their verbiage. Assuming they know all risks and not informing them seems to be the least correct thing to do in my view. Informing them provides an opportunity for them to evaluate and correct if need be. I see many posts here overtime that have the same, let’s say, potentially incorrect perception of cement board (including my own btw with regard to ceiling protection) I am not sure of the origination but I take it as something I should be more cautious in suggesting and they may want to as well. We obviously differ in opinion.
  5. Well, I have researched the assemblies, L&L folks are not code experts or fire rated assembly experts so they probably do not want to over promote or assume that liability. There is a perception of this product that could lead to using it to cover a cavity in lieu of rated materials.. Since it conducts heat rather well it can elevate the risk of fire by allowing the cavity to heat faster. It’s design intent and assembly rating are as the manufacture states not necessarily the answer to kiln issues. Fireproof is not the same as fire resistant. I actually did not realize these issues with cement board until I went to design something that mattered and had to really comply. I guess my question would be why wouldn’t one inform them. If they like the elevated risk then they can leave what they have written. Informing them seems to be the right thing to do.
  6. Hmm, Cool, Paragon does theirs better in exculpating while reading the L&L stuff not so good. I’ll send them some reference material for their benefit. Likely they will remove without a proper clause about code. Good find! Definitely likely something they will not want to suggest or imply though.
  7. Sure, worth mentioning though since it does not necessarily replace rated gypsum and in the case of a basement with unfinished ceilings cement board alone over the wood joists is probably actually not a great idea. As far as floor assemblies, rated ones are even far more difficult than than vertical partitions and two layers of cement board will Most often not make your assembly rated, nor would I recommend suggesting it as “the” solution. In a shed with no drywall and cement board alone, likely ok if there is no requirement. That same shed submitted for approval or designed by an architect will most likely need to make minimum 1 hr rating for good reason. To me suggesting something that is less than most codes required has too many human downsides. Anyway, I did not realize until I actually had to submit design layout suggestions for a real community structure and when I looked up the assemblies they did not comply easily. Just sharing for those who never researched.
  8. Definitely a solution with ventilation air behind it. Since it conducts heat so well, kind of kills simple direct use over wood. I can make it sort of work with steel stud, therma fiber, and drywall other side but still needs to be fully fire taped so overtop of rated drywall it goes as wainscoat.
  9. Yeah, sort of. As it turns out their assemblies for 1hr rating depend mostly on gypsum or other composite systems cement board won’t do it alone, especially not fully fire taped. Never would have known till I looked for the assembly certification. Hardie appears similar, just more objective when advertising. FYI rated approved systems are by 1hr, 2hr, etc.... not by the inch. I had to redesign with all gypsum and overtop with cement board. The gypsum will need full fire tape and inspection prior to the over top of cement board. Who would have figured?
  10. Dick has a good idea. A Bristol glaze can melt lower than cone 6 and as a starting point: Zinc =0.2 - 0.4 in a .70 RO base. I would try a quick search of Glazy.org for Bristol clear glaze and see if one matches your material on hand. Zinc based clears have a tendency to mess with colors though so in the end it might be easiest to get a boron Fritt as your source..
  11. @Crusty @Mark C. Just a quick note on Hardie board (Just started designing a space for a community so I looked up its ratings and allowables) it’s great but it is not fire rated so Type X Drywall would be superior in instances for fire protection and code rated walls. A great product IMO but to be fire rated it needs to go over regular rated drywall. I mention this because fire rated assemblies protect the wood framing from heating up, drying excessively and catching fire especially a ceiling cavity with wood framing in it. Wood products catch fire in the 450 - 500 degree range after a few hours and generally instantly at 700 degrees. So for walls and ceilings already protected by rated drywall, hardy board installed over the top of of the completed fire rated assembly should be fine. What is often overlooked is that the top of the kiln will radiate infrared energy which will heat up the ceiling that it is looking at. So in addition to the convection (Heat rises), the ceiling will warm above the kiln by radiation often significantly. Hardi board will absorb and conduct this heat to what it is attached to which is why it is not fire rated. A simple piece of reflective sheet metal mounted to the ceiling above the kiln will easily radiate it away though so this problem is easy to solve or safeguard against. Just some safety first ideas for interior structures, figured I would let everyone know. To be compliant I needed to scrap the hardy board in my community center design.
  12. An easy way would be to find a clear gloss that suits your need and whatever cone you fire to. Then test that it fits your claybody then you can opacify or color white with several common oxides. Common would be: Tin oxide - warm white, Typically starting about 4% (generally expensive) Zirconium oxide- Stark white Typically starting at 8% (generally prone to metal marking) Titanium oxide - Streaky white Typically Starting at 4% (generally a bit variable or random) Mixing and matching these is doable and the blend would provide various shades of white. You can find many recipes on Glazy,org maybe search by cone , gloss or matte, and color, then match the materials you have on hand.
  13. Please post and show us a successful fire! Looks like you are on your way with a touch more work.
  14. Glad it worked, give yourself all the credit of getting it done! Now time for your grand daughter I believe to fire some ceramics. nice job!
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