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Bill Kielb

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About Bill Kielb

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  • Location
    United States - Illinois
  • Interests
    All forms of constructionist pottery, education, analysis, design and repair as it pertains the ceramic arts community.

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  1. I am with @liambesaw in that there is virtually no difference. My issue with all the lowfire Orton cones is they don’t tend to bend in a picture perfect fashion. They tend to bend mostly at the hips which I believe is the result of the cross section and saving some material but just speculation there. Here is another point to ponder, radiation! At the end of your firing most of the heat will be by radiation, then conduction, then very little by convection.. Why is that relevant? Because if either of your cones has more of a clear vision or line of sight to your elements they will absorb more heat energy. Could be the difference in bend from cone to cone in your picture. Two cones next to each other but one being able to see more glowing elements. Lastly cones are made of glaze that would melt just like glaze at about 6 cones higher temperature. Their formulation is pretty established and consistent so they last a long time with the exception of if they get wet or contaminated usually with a wet substance. An 04 Cone is - 0.3:0.7 flux ratio, 0.2 iron, 0.3 Alumina, 0.2 Boron, 3.8 silica hey, it’s a glaze!
  2. Our saying in the late 80’s and 90’s for IAQ::The solution to pollution is dilution .......... with, outdoor air of course. That was great until humidity levels became excessive beyond the reasonable dehumidification capacity of equipment and the mold problem was born! Of course mold is everywhere, especially ........ outdoors.
  3. As far as Cone Art From an energy standpoint the insulation saves money and energy, period! People arguing it doesn’t are selling non insulated kilns. The Cone art lids are one of the best IMO and Frank Tucker is a great guy. We have five of his kilns each have a bit over 1000 firings on them. Euclid makes interesting kilns, some fiber some a mixture of brick and fiber and some industrial. Not sure these two compete with each other though.
  4. All good points but five years would be my reasonable minimum on virtually any decent system. Fans that are corroded generally ingest far too much kiln air to makeup air. setting the home made aside for a bit if you don’t get five years out of a decent kiln system something is likely not great about the setup. So for the lifespan of a kiln vent fan I would shoot for that minimum expectation. As far as longevity, more dilution air, less heat through the fan, life is generally good. More cfm is not necessarily the answer. Starving and overheating a large fan seldom end with good results. Air changes per hour are no longer a reasonable standard. Have seen many a paint booth improperly designed and operated. Almost as many rotting kiln vents with insufficient room air. There must be a reasonable way to help the clay community. This stuff is complicated but actually relatively simple. Although I have seen many a bad HVAC design as well so maybe just too tough for many to understand.
  5. Poor design or less than good install. Seen a bunch. The ratio of room air to kiln air makes the exhaust stream super reasonable. The hours of use, not much compared to lots of fans that run 24/7. If it doesn’t last five years, start looking for why.
  6. Neil I disagree Properly designed and cooled fans are rotary devices they last a long time. The environment is usually well defined and mitigating the operation hazards by design is essential. Longevity varies due to products that are not reasonable quality, designs that create overly harsh operating conditions or lack of reasonable maintenance. Centrifugal chillers, building fans, heating unit fans, ceiling fans, exhaust fans, jet and turbofan engines are rotary devices. They last when properly designed and attended to. If you are experiencing premature failure of a fan, something is likely wrong. I have many designs in service for 20 years or more without failure or replacement.
  7. Longer duct, smaller diameter, and rougher duct will all decrease the airflow. Good that you are doing something and the something is significant. When we design this stuff we use real numbers and real velocities to capture as many small particles as possible. Use your mask, I guarantee you are not capturing all your dust. However this is all positive and the only thing I would add is to ensure there is a source of makeup air from out doors. No use accidentally pulling furnace fumes back down the flue into your workspace because it’s your easiest source of makeup air. All these things can be calculated and actually are quite simple really but most often too much for typical potters. Maybe I will create some decent tables for folks to work from. Anything is better than nothing and you have put reasonable thought into this so all good. Would we consider it adequate for sanding without a mask, no we would not. here is a quick video of how we go about creating a simplified designing. Some of this stuff you might find interesting. Nice video BTW!
  8. We analyzed and built something simple. Part of the essential point of the design was to keep the blower cool so it lasted because we noticed folks just adding bigger and bigger blowers without sufficient bypass air. The goal in the video was to introduce the concept of bypass or room air mixed with a very small amount of kiln air. I think the design stacks up as well or better and includes some above kiln ventilation. For two kilns for about 250 bucks using all decent parts and should have a high use studio life of five to ten years or more. take a look: see what you think
  9. So now curious because that wattage seems like it should work, where are your losses? Any chance you have some infrared pics or temp measurements? what does your measured R or U value end up to be top, side and bottom? I ask because L&L used to publish a table about their kilns and I always took it for granted that it likely was correct for simple design and waste heat purposes. They all fall into the 3-4 watts per square inch but none are super insulated. A 1 cu ft kiln should be on the order of 750 sq. Inches (round) so 2100- 2800 watts seems doable.
  10. I’ll have to try but I still think it’s difficult to throw crooked, save all the other reasons for things to wobble.
  11. @liambesaw I think it’s pretty representative. People throw in relation to the bat or at least in a line perpendicular to the bat. I think it’s actually difficult to make it come out level, vs perpendicular to the wheel head. Same even if he needles off the rim. You will be cutting at one elevation at the same point in space.
  12. Nice work! Back in business for likely less than 20 bucks! No,worries, center your 15 # gently on that wheel till you get a second or spare.
  13. You should be able to go to Www.glazy.org and find many glaze recipes. As for food safe, technically cadmium and lead are the only regulated substances for food safety and pottery. So no cadmium and no lead and the standards in the US are met. Now many potters also feel barium, vanadium, chromium, manganese and other components are not healthy, especially for the preparer of the glaze. Most often they exclude those substances from their food safe glazes reasoning that if there is risk to the preparer, they would rather it not be in the their final product as well. The components I have listed above are a good start, we don’t even bother to have them in the glaze lab. So the advice here is learn the risks of the ingredients and then make a conservative decision as to what you may want to include on your personal exclusion list. Unfortunately lots of reading but fortunately will make you a better potter. keep in mind the current standard does not account for durability as well as absorption etc.... All good things to spend some time learning as well since food safe often gives folks the idea that it is microwave safe, child safe for preparation and handling etc....
  14. I passed on the info you gave to me. It looks like it might be too big for the maintenance guy to handle. I think its GOOD BYE to the whisper wheel. Now its down to 3 wheels for 6 people. The hand builders group are getting bigger in numbers. I certainly do appreciate the help you gave. Good health & good luck to you!

    1. Bill Kielb

      Bill Kielb

      You can just order a new board. With a little plugging and unplugging I think they can have a decent wheel. Maybe 300 - 400 bucks I believe if he goes on their website they have some generic troubleshooting tips using the On board LED lights which usually leads to replacing the board. Just plug and play stuff from there.

      Just looked, here is the link to the troubleshooting manual

      https://www1.ceramics.nidec-shimpo.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Shimpo-RK-Whisper-Troubleshooting.pdf

      Best of luck!

  15. If it fully vitrifies at cone ten firing less will mean it’s not fully vitrified and likely more absorbent as well as not as strong as fully vitrified. I looked at your website and depending upon absorption it may not be considered microwave safe. Dishwasher safe is interesting in that the dishwasher wears away glazes more so than perhaps anything else. Even though not necessarily a clay thing, glazes that fall outside a range of flux ratios have been tested and often degrade significantly with each washing. Just a few possibilities though.
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