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Bill Kielb

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About Bill Kielb

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  • Location
     United States - Illinois
  • Interests
    All forms of constructionist pottery, education, analysis, design and repair as it pertains the ceramic arts community.

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  1. @poppyandlily I do not know the source of the recipe actually other than something pulled from Glazy last year. At least I don’t recognize this by composition or colorant as something we have used. You could try and DM @Michael Dsee if he remembers. We have an old video (not the greatest) that does some intro Stull stuff, but it was centered around real basic Stull and the free Katz spreadsheet which we got his permission to modify and redistribute. The mods were a bit for ease of use, color research, etc….. of the original sheet.
  2. What look were you trying to achieve and do you like how it turned out? Aluminum pieces and all?
  3. The only crazy exception I ran into pertained to 15 amp residential receptacles that were actually mandated to be made capable to pass through 20 amp at the manufacturing level. Very surprised when I read the reason that was ok. Guess it’s ok though a true 20 amp plug won’t fit a 15 amp receptacle.
  4. I don’t like glue especially in a heated environment. Best drill a new hole or two. Your picture looks like plenty of space, but with the splitters definitely are a pain. Suggestion: don’t forget to renumber your wires when you are sure
  5. @JohnS yeah I hate those things remove them when I can and crimp both wires in an insulated spade terminal instead shown below. If you don’t have crimpers or experience though, then terminal splitters work. Two of those wires power a very small load timing relay so combining into one spade should be no issue load wise. Some what ya call it’s I have heard: Spade terminal splitters Piggy back spade terminals Double terminal adapter
  6. So I think my drawing is correct, put both relays side by side numbers in the same direction and take a nice picture and post to confirm. Also did you number the wires before you removed them?
  7. Manufactures recommendations - This is generally good advice however the inspector should follow the adopted codes, after all these are recommendations for a reason. “Mfg requirements can be lax or more restrictive than the NEC, however they cannot contraindicate any other codes.” Many manufactures defer to being in accordance with local codes somewhere in their documentation, as its nearly impossible for them to know the application of all. A recent paragon listing (I believe) I looked up just deferred that there might be a 125% requirement for continuous load. Bottom line manufact
  8. A little more info might help. What temp does it make it to, how long does it take to get to that temp, did it shut off or just keep running? Did you program a schedule into it and what was the schedule? What cone are we trying to make? What cone is the kiln rated for. When you changed your elements what did they measure in resistance and what do new elements measure if you know this. The more you tell the easier it will be to diagnose. Does the kiln display a temperature when the error is cleared? What is the error message? Model # how big is it? how many Watts ………..
  9. The codes have been in effect for many years originating in resistance heating that would be on for long periods of time. You could also remind him of the 80% rule which most electricians know by heart.. His 50 amp breaker can only carry 9600 watts or 40 amp load ….. so now what is an electrician to do but go read the codes and learn them. He can always fix his plug issue by hardwiring the kiln into a disconnect satisfying all concerns.
  10. Ok I’ll give you my understanding I Think reading the code, 125% of continuous load plus 100% of the non continuous load with a continuous load being defined as 3 consecutive hours. The rule is in place to protect the breaker from overheating with the continuous load on it. There are 100% rated breakers that can be loaded as such. We usually find these breakers 250 amps and above though. So for most breakers this rule is actually the same as the do not load a normal breaker greater than 80% of its capacity. To me the wire size has always matched the breaker size or is even heavier. No s
  11. You can buy 1x2 prosumer hardwood such as poplar for the wrap and use the cleat method with 1/2 x 1/2 square lattice molding all the way around the inside back then just glue and screw your plywood to the cleat all the way around. No router needed except maybe to finish the front edge of the shadow box for practice. 3/8” plywood is pretty light but wrapped this way very warp resistant. Just use a tile mastic made for wood substrates if you use plywood.
  12. Normal bisque firing usually does not exceed 200 f degrees per hour so that puts a firing in the 10 - 12 hour range. There are reasons for this speed, one of which is it takes time at a temperature to burn out everything that you want gone. Small pieces likely can go faster but I would speed up over time using test tiles. Each clay may need its own schedule as some are more contaminated than others so to speak. After testing you may find your porcelain does fine on an eight hour schedule or closer to 300f per hour. Until you test it though, I would not risk it.
  13. You can gallery wrap anything with a hardwood section to keep it stable, shadow box style. Sort of a picture frame with 1x2 wrapping but the wrapping is narrow stile facing out. If you can router a channel all around then 3/8” plywood or even 3/8” tile / cement board would be fine. The cement board being much more inert to moisture and matching the properties of your tile better. Assuming your tile is 1/4” and mortar or glue 1/4” and maybe a 1/8” relief, route a 3/8” channel 5/8” back from one face of the 1x2 to wrap around your backer board. You still have room in the back (1/2”) for two
  14. It is fairly common to use a louvered opening for outside air. They are generally water and storm resistant as well as screened for critters and are pretty economical. You may want to contemplate using one instead of a flap of some sort. If your gable is unvented, then using the louver can serve two purposes. They also make through wall fans louvered in the same way. Just a thought.
  15. To test the theory out I would temporarily seal the plaster perimeter so no air escapes along the edge of the mold. Then before releasing my next trial tile I would take a thin blade and score the clay along the perimeter so it is no longer adhered to the side of the mold before turning on my air.
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