Jump to content

Bill Kielb

Members
  • Content Count

    1,938
  • Joined

  • Last visited

6 Followers

About Bill Kielb

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    United States - Illinois
  • Interests
    All forms of constructionist pottery, education, analysis, design and repair as it pertains the ceramic arts community.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,328 profile views
  1. @debdebdeb .006 is their maximum tolerance gap. Yours looks visually to be 1/32 - 1/16”. At 1/16 that would be about .06” which is about ten times greater than their Maximum tolerance. I would say if this bothers you they should take it back and provide new. If you have or can borrow a dial indicator from someone I believe a video of it will reveal this is easily beyond .006”
  2. A bit disappointing, wonder what their tolerance is. Appears to move in the horizontal axis as well so likely just slightly bent.
  3. There are many videos on the net you may find useful. One idea is there are controllers made to control multiple zones which helps to even out kilns as yours. Here in the states Bartlett controls has made the V6CF multi zone kiln control with cone firing built in. Since you likely have three isolation relays you are already set up for multi zone operation really. You would need to add two more thermocouples of course but the hookup and wiring is fairly simple. Bartlett has since created a touch screen and the V6CF which has existed for a decade and still does a great job is slowly being replaced. I mention because you may find a suitable used controller for a very reasonable price. This would likely help you with balancing a bit. Just a possibility
  4. That doesn’t sound correct, use a table for appropriate orifice with corresponding pressure. Btu increase exponentially for pressure changes so raising pressure by just 10% will increase output by over 20%. These things are not linear or easy to calculate. Tables have been around for decades. Calculations are very difficult to get right.
  5. @jrgpots Propane is double the btu of natural gas. Propane is approx. 2000 btu per cu ft, natural gas is about 1000 btu per cu ft. Whatever fuel you are using use the right orifice and matching pressure. Generally in inches which is way less than PSI. Natural gas orifices are Generally bigger in diameter for the same BTU Than propane. PickIng them from a table and operating them at the prescribed pressure is easy but often Is misunderstood which causes a bunch of needless confusion. A 100000 btuh propane burner is in essence the same as a 100000 btuh natural gas burner from a kiln thermodynamic point of view.
  6. Meaningful for me is some measure of improvement so 10-20% makes me real interested. Which generally brings me to think how much is available to be had which then leads me to think in quantities just to see if my hunch is correct. So ......... 100000 Btuh and for natural gas running let’s say 10:1 air fuel ratio. For natural gas at about 1000 btu per cubic feet of which about 1/2 will be primary air and 1/2 will be secondary air We ought to be able to get a sense of how much energy we could get from X number of cubic feet of air heated X number of degrees (sensible heat) A long process I know, which is why I asked what is success for you? 1%,5%,10%? Maybe any percent? Once we know some number we will need to translate that into heat transfer possibilities and see if any of this is remotely doable. My initial thought is it will be less than 1% without a decent internal exchanger, but that is just a guess based on current boiler and stack waste heat reclamation. If I get some spare time, post the size of your burners and I will work up some approximations based on enthalpy and we will see.
  7. Venturi burners would be tough and I suspect you will be providing some preheated air as primary and secondary air as it will be hard to segregate the two. So preheating air saves energy, mainly. Scrubbing some heat off your chimney also potentially reduces its draw. I am curious: what are you trying to achieve? Maybe just reclaim some heat is the answer. How much preheat do you feel would be successful, IE, 10,20,30 degree warmup or differential. That is to say 40 degree air in, 60 degree air out to the burners. If you are not sure of the above, given the burner size, how much percentage savings (or increase in power) is worth pursuing? Just curious of your thoughts, which I will preface with, usually when we pursue extracting meaningful (Numeric) heat it requires a heat exchanger embedded in the flue gasses.
  8. I would. Whether something is level is not as relevant as if it is square to the hinge installation. Looking at your pictures, I was not impressed with the giant mortar joint in the lid anyway so no surprise it has fallen out. The out of level thing could be an issue, but kilns can be slightly out of level and all the hardware is square to itself and self supporting. My thought would be a bit of a lemon in fabrication and assembly. Who knows, maybe it was damaged a bit in shipping. These are traditionally good quality kilns and solid built so the vendor response seems a bit inadequate as well. I still would like to see a picture of the hinge design. It really should be set up to accommodate some of this in my opinion. There are a number of simple ways manufactures guard against this very thing with their hinges.
  9. Yes, that is how we have done it for for many years now.
  10. No idea why they do what they do. If their input is 0- 5 volts then any current coil with that output should work. If the factory model is attached to a circuit board and the board is powered from the kin, and not passive then maybe they are generating a 0-5 v output through a voltage divider of sorts to represent the Measured Current. Examining the input specs should reveal what they expect, but just buying one from them seems easiest actually than speculating. As a parameter it looks like the current sensor max amperage is a programmable number. Just get their stuff, no issues to figure out.
  11. Unfortunately it popped enough to land in, you guessed it, the bowls! Since then we have a policy, no refires without everyone knowing and when they are tolerated, they go on the bottom shelf.
  12. I have only experienced this with some refires that could not tolerate the stress and broke during the upper temperatures of the firing.
  13. I am sorry, kiln lids are designed with offset closure for the lid. This is a high quality kiln and leaks excessively after only three firings. In my opinion, just not acceptable, and adjusting this by loosening the band is even less impressive as the slab will tend to re-square itself in the band. Loosening and adjusting the hinge (not the tension band) when this is at temperature would be more typical. I can’t help hoping you happened to get a disinterested technician. Can you post a few pictures of the hinge pivot, hopefully adjustment is designed in and available.
  14. Definitely call Bartlett, they may suggest additional modifications to parameters. The genesis model has a Specific programming point for SSR Which defaults to 500 milliseconds when set. Tech manual here about 2/3 of the way through settings, so you know how to get to the hidden menu function. https://binst.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/manual/asset_path/224/Genesis_-_Technical_Manual.pdf Just to add any 50amp current transformer should work as long as you can get its output to 5volts. So a 50 amp core with 1 volt output would need 5 wraps of the load wire through it to register 5 volts at 50 amps actual draw.
  15. My perception, poorly manufactured and poorly fitted lid. Disappointing if they do not stand behind it in my opinion.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.