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Bill Kielb

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About Bill Kielb

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  • Location
    United States - Illinois
  • Interests
    All forms of constructionist pottery, education, analysis, design and repair as it pertains the ceramic arts community.

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  1. Fuses don’t really wear out, they fail because of a short circuit. Hopefully you found what caused them to blow.
  2. As is often said by many potters, many times it is not the kilns fault
  3. Looks really good for cone six, your cone 04 looked pretty good. Do you have an issue with either?
  4. Those cones are not overly bent actually so depending on placement etc..... it does not appear to be a significant variance from desired temperature / time. The 04 looks like it has collided with the holder. The bisque schedule you linked is interesting in that it finishes in 26 hours but has a twelve hour hold at 180 degrees. Interesting but excessive for most ordinary pottery. Both schedules seize on the idea that in about the last 200f degrees of the firing to follow 108 degrees per hour as in the center column of the Orton chart. Cones are made of glaze so in theory when they act approp
  5. Definitely need electrical troubleshooting. How comfortable are you with checking relays and basic power path? I would check all the connections and look for one or more that are marginal. Posting decent pictures of any connections will get you an informed opinion here. I read your comment about the indicator lights but do you hear the relays engage when the corresponding light turns on?
  6. Good to hear. Holds at the top can often make things worse with respect to bubbles. Firing down has a decent history of helping things heal So maybe include just the fire down part as a test without the hold. (Just a thought) Just curious what this glaze looks like at its best. Have a picture?
  7. It doesn’t sound like you personally burned anything out but you most definitely need someone to troubleshoot the kiln. As above, how old is the kiln, how many firings, have the elements ever been replaced, have you looked carefully at the elements for signs of a burned open section ........what do you feel comfortable testing?...... etc..... Sounds like kiln maintenance and repair is likely in order.
  8. Underglazes work by absorbing frequencies of light and predominately reflecting a perceived color so mixing two or three different filters if you will often results in muddy looking colors.. As you fire higher in temperature, colors tend to change or disappear. My first thought would be to try and do this with lowfire (cone 04) clay, stains and underglaze and glazes. My second thought is there are folks that paint very elaborately with China paint and multiple firings. I would suggest exploring some of the decorated lowfire clay sites, Amaco, Mayco, .... as well as google some China paint a
  9. I would call Axner. Nice folks last time I visited them.
  10. Just install the gauge so it always measures the pressure to the burners which should be downstream of All valves and regulators. Then you should be able to Confirm you have the energy available and learn how to fire by pressure. We have plenty of ready made free spreadsheet logs we can share as well if you eventually have the need.
  11. Gesso is basically white paint to seal canvass, it will burn off in the kiln.
  12. I skimmed through these several times, I can’t find any reference here but maybe I am missing it. I am sure it’s somewhere. Sizing piping,: use a table know the actual pressures, count your fittings and valves and make sure everything has the capacity rating you need or greater. Give yourself some reasonable percentage to over size the design losses say 10- 20%. Guessing and rule of thumb are fine but confirm with the tables and the actual numbers to save yourself the headaches. All that stuff today is available on the web and fairly easy to do IMO. I agree, I feel I have no idea on how
  13. I would suggest to see it tested without the underglaze actually to rule that in or out.
  14. Not sure I understand the question but If a friction loss and piping thing we need type of gas, supply pressure, operating pressure and some idea of fittings. Then pick from a table for acceptable drop for 150000 btu max output. At what pressure do the burners put out 75k?
  15. Most glaze recipes will be for dipping so adjusting for brushing as above may be necessary.. Glazes often don’t work the same from place to place so ultimately often one has to mix, try and mix some more to test until eventually you find one that works for you, your claybody, your application method and of course your firing. So a bit tedious but once you find a dependable glaze it’s probably all worth it. There are many glaze recipes on glazy.org, digital fire, and other web resources. Testing them of course will be required to See if they fit your use. In the studio we created a cone 6
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