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feistyfieryceramics

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  1. @Bill Kielb @neilestrick The kiln is working great! I've been running it pretty much non-stop since it was fixed to catch up on the firing! I have a questions. Generally the brick is in good shape but... Before we vacuumed the kiln and installed the new elements, I removed bits of loose insulating brick so they wouldn't get sucked into the vacuum. Each piece is pretty small, but in two places the cumulative missing piece is big and so the element channel is sort of missing there. I am afraid that as the heating element ages and get longer, they will pop out and stick to t
  2. @Babs I can have a delayed start, 2 ramps, then a hold, then a slow cool. Or at least I assumed it had to be used as a slow cool as that is what the sort of illustration shows. I have never tried to turn the slow cool into another heating ramp but now I am curious to try. But then that's it. That's all I can program.
  3. @Bill KielbWow! Yeah. I didn't register that was the metal. It's cool that the glaze stuck. A new fun thing to experiment with! I ran the kiln empty last night and I was perfect! I'll do a bisque firing tonight and monitor the end of it to check the cones. Thank you all fo your help!
  4. Should I average the char out for glaze firing as well? Nice! I remember some "special" wire that we used to hang beads from and to make loops when I was a kid and I was saying to my husband I wonder if I can use this for that. I thought about just keeping the ends of the new heating element that we cut off. Can I use the old element too? Just sand it or something to get the oxidation off? Thanks!
  5. So for a bisque firing assuming I have already dried the pieces out... something like this? 200 C per hour to 963 C. Then 40 C per hour to 1063 C. Without a hold? Do you mean set it to 100 C and then turn off the kiln, or do you mean hold at 100 C over night? Alternately, I could set it to 25 per hour to 100 C while I'm in the studio and then set a new program for the glaze firing before I leave. Is it important to dry pieces out in the kiln after glazing? I was waiting 24 hours but then I read a post on the forum that certain glazes crawl if you don’t let it dry but that if your glaze
  6. So! I also just got a response from the electrician who we texted in a panic last night He says can come by on Tuesday at 11. I told him that the kiln was working now but that I hope to have a list of questions to help us understand the electricity situation in the studio so we can do things safely, get the right elements, etc. So my the next thing I am going to do after class today is run an empty bisque firing as I heard that helps extent the life of the elements. My husband who is a programer set up a webcam to take a photo of our little/old kiln computer so I can see it it is able to
  7. @Bill Kielb @neilestrick There is som old looking stuff in here so I am not sure if it is all in use but the really ancient looking thing that has a big "4x6" written on it is the fuse box. I've blown a fuse by using 3 hair dryers at the same time and have changed it. The plaque on there says V 500 A 25. This other ancient looking thing that also has the sort of "counter" showing how much electricity we are using has a plaque that says 3 x 25A 380 V. Here is the showing how much electricity we are using. Not sure what it's called. Here is the breaker list 11, 12,
  8. @Bill Kielb @neilestrick OMG! We did it! We figured out the problem with your help and now it is working now. I started the kiln at that same ramp of 500 C per hour for the paper test and all the elements burned the paper and the breaker didn't flip. I'll tell walk you though what happened and then maybe we can "regroup" to go over what I need to ask an electrician and whether I need different elements. So last night; the first time we turned on the kiln, before installing the elements, I remember seeing that the orange light on the outside of the kiln was on when I passed by it on
  9. @Bill Kielb Here is the name plate on the kiln I'm not in the studio right now but I took this picture of the breaker when I was there and sent it to the electrician, but he works for the company we rent from so I don't expect we will hear back until Monday. I'm pointing to the switch that flipped. The "T" (test) button says 25 A above it. Is taht the number you're looking for? Here is also a wider shot, but it is kind of blurry. It Should I ask the electrician to measure the voltage if I get him into the studio next week? Should I just hire an independent electrician? I feel so
  10. @Bill Kielb @neilestrick Oh man. So disappointed. So I got the new elements this afternoon. While removing the old elements we saw where the top element had gotten scrunched up and burned out. We also saw what looked like a mini tooth of porcelain stuck to the bottom element but that element was still operational according to the paper test. Anyway. We took those out and vacuumed everything and installed the new elements. It seemed very straight forward given our kiln is old only has one thermocouple, etc. I was feeling really proud! But then I tried to do the paper test to make sur
  11. Thanks! I have been wondering if some of the problems I'm having of little bubbles might be from bisque firing to a lower temperature. Organics burning out during the glaze firing and bubbling though the glaze? C is perfect for me! @Bill Kielb @neilestrick So my glaze temps are as follows: The red brown glaze says recommended firing temperature is 1220- 1280C. The blue glaze says recommended firing temperature is 1220- 1260C For the rest of my glazes, the sample board at the local shop I bought it at says simply 1255 C. But m
  12. @Bill Kielb @neilestrick Thanks for the info guys! This is great! I look forward to having more even firings. I feel like the positive side to all of this is it feels like the kiln elements will be a fresh start and a change to change and perfect firing schedules. Do you guys recommend bisque firing to cone 04? When I began that was my plan as I believe that is what the studios I attended before fire their bisque to, but someone advised me against it and said I should instead fire to 06. I'm trying to understand these firing schedule tables you have here. So looking at t
  13. @Bill Kielb @neilestrick Here is the clay I have in the studio: https://www.potterypassion.com/products/0254 The website says : Water absorption 1070 C 9% 1140 C 6% 1240 0,4% I think the kiln got up to about 1165 at 11:20 and then it had fallen to about 1087 C at 13:30 when I turned it off. So they clay will be weak (easy to chip) and absorb water if it didn't mature? And based on this information it would absorb somewhere between 0.4 and 6%? Does that mean if someone had it sitting in a sink of water and then microwaved it that the steam would expl
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