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      This forum addresses Frequently Asked Questions regarding general use of the forum software. We have also posted the Terms of Use here for easy reference.

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    2. Studio Operations and Making Work

      Making, decorating and firing ceramic art.
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      Recipes, clay and glaze chemistry, glazing techniques.
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    4. Mold Making and Slip Casting

      All things related to mold making and slip casting ceramics.

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    5. Equipment Use and Repair

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      This section of the Forum is for buying, selling, trading or donating new or used studio equipment, tools, and supplies.  Please read Terms and Conditions before posting content.

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    12. Job and Career Opportunities

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  • Topics

  • Recent Status Updates

    • Joseph Fireborn

      Joseph Fireborn

      About to mix glaze for the first time in 3 years. Excited and terrified at the same time.
      · 10 replies
    • ArteLauri

      ArteLauri  »  neilestrick

      Neil,
      l’ve read your educational replies to so many questions, so I thought I would go directly to you with my question, if that is permitted.
      My tiny Paragon kiln (interior 7x7.25x5.75) has served me well while sailing for 25 years, so I’m looking to upgrade and get back to cone6 midfire pottery. The electrical is the most cryptically, if it doesn’t fit specific parameters then it won’t work. I’m looking for a kiln using less than 2000 watts, 1800 is better, we have 120V at 60 hz and 240V 50hz. My husband is an electrician and he can wire it professionally, dedicated plug, etc.  so these are the parameters he has given me to start with. We have heavy duty inverters (he can even weld our Steele boat).
      Im not a production artist, obviously with such a small kiln, but I’m hoping to get a larger cavity. So far I have found the Cress BT911T, Cress C11HT and the ConeArt BX119. All of them have a cubic foot of .57 to .77,  approximately 11” x9” depth.  115V, 15A, 1700 watts.
      (Olimpic 129E also is a possibility)

      So my question is, how do you choose off of paper specks only? The insulation is slightly different for each one, the ConeArt  has  2.5” brick with a 1” barrier insulation, the Cress C11HT has a 4” brick and the BT11T has 3”.  So in a 100% solar situation, I start firing around 10am and have to push it to get it all fired during the strongest daylight and a natural cooldown. But my current kilns cavity is small. So, will more insulation help me with a slightly larger cavity and cone 6 firing?
      The only kiln (of the above ) that fires to Cone 10 is the ConeArt, the Cress’s  fire to 2250 degrees. I’ve read that having a come 10 kiln will help save your elements when firing to cone 6. Is this true?
      Any help at all is greatly appreciated. 
      im new to this group and have tried to read and search for so,e of the answers. Thank you so much for adding me. 
      · 0 replies
    • JohnnyK

      JohnnyK

      Kinda lookin' forward to getting my new coils from Euclids so I can start testing the old Cress Kiln...
      · 1 reply
    • Ron Roy

      Ron Roy  »  Dick White

      Hi Dick,
       
      Sorry about the delay answering - busy time for me.
       
      First - a correction "Cone 10 bodies were affected when the low P2O3 Custer started shipping around 2000"  should read K2O not P2O3. How could that change have happened?
      I don't have any custer - in fact I'm retiring from making pots. Just can't physically handle the work anymore.  Still fixing glazes though.
      I would still like to do the reaserch on the current Custer.
      If the KNaO is back up to 14% as opposed to 10% for the low K2O I assume any glazes that would run off must have a lot of custer? Or does it have low alumina or both?
       
      RR
      · 1 reply
    • Beth ONeil

      Beth ONeil

      Got through to Tim at Laguna today who helped me solve the problem.  Turns out just needed the slightest tightening of the belt, and voila!  Fingers crossed this will be THE solution.
      · 0 replies
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