JohnnyK

I sign every piece I make whether it be an exotic pot or a mug or a spoon rest and get particular satisfaction when almost every person I've sold to actually looks at the bottom of the object to see if it is signed and is happy to see that it is...and since I log every piece that I make, I mark the bottom (using a glaze pencil) with a code that lets me reference the piece primarily for glaze application so that I can reproduce the look in the future.

3 coats PC33 Oatmeal over 3 coats PC31 Iron Lustre on Laguna B-Mix^5 +a narrow band of 3 Duncan Renaissance Shino cream on the rim of the hex vase gave me this look...while 3 coats PC33 Oatmeal over 3 coats PC31 Iron Lustre on Laguna B-Mix^5 gave this look on the tea cup... In your photo it looks like some combo that used Smokey Merlot as the base coat...you might try Oatmeal or Blue Rutile as the top coat. The Shino Cream makes for a runny "Hare's fur" look as evidenced in the hex vase.

Thanks for the kudos! Here is the awarded submission and the PDF of the news article... citrusheightssentinel.com-Meet John Klunder the Citrus Heights man who works wonders with ceramics.pdf

There's a couple of ways to go about that...First, take some sandpaper and try to smooth out the pitted exposed upper part of the shaft. Then spray the shaft/bearing with Liquid Wrench penetrating fluid and let it soak for whatever the directions say, then start by tapping the bearing with a hammer in the direction you want to remove the bearing. This works most of the time. As the bearing loosens, tap harder. In order to evenly distribute the hammer's impact, you might take a piece of 1x4 and cut a slot the width of the shaft about half way through the board which only has to be about 12" lo

Welcome to the forum, Robin. From the pic of the bearing from the underside, it looks like you would remove the nuts from the housing and then use a pry bar to break the bearing away from the mounting surface. You would have to remove the bottom brace assembly to drop the flywheel and shaft from the table, which would enable you to remove the upper bearing from the shaft. With that done, measure the dimensions of the bearing and then go to www.graingers.com to get the replacements you need for the upper shaft and the bottom under the flywheel. You may even be able to find them on Amazon...Goo

Sounds more like a hand tossed pizza!

Some photos of the problem would help a lot in determining what the problem might be...

The recent PBS Juror's Award for my Horsehair Raku submission and the follow up interview with a local news source has been my recent pat on the back!

OK...As an ongoing part of this test series, I tried the LQ on another pot and it failed again, so I contacted the manufacturer about the problem. They asked me if I had thoroughly washed and dried the INSIDE of the pot before the LQ application. They said that even the smallest amount of dust or dirt could keep the LQ from properly and completely doing its job. I realized that I had not. Soooo...I'm going to try again, but this time I am going to seal the outside with a clear acrylic as I usually do after firing to keep the horsehair and feather residue in place before washing. Then I'll try

Welcome to the forum, Kerryanne...can you post some pix of the teapot? It would give us an idea of how intricate the pot is and help with suggestions on how to create a mold...

As many of you know, I’ve been pursuing a serious hobby in ceramics and pottery for the last decade or so. I’ve sold a bunch of stuff and have donated a bunch of stuff to various causes. Local PBS station KVIE-TV has been the recipient over the last 3 years and this time around I was recognized with their Juror’s Award for Sculpture for this collection of my Horsehair Raku…They, in turn, had put out a press release which was picked up by a local online news source, The Citrus Heights Sentinel. I was interviewed by a young, up and coming reporter, Rylie Freisen, and the attached PDF is the arti

Sorce...do you dry out and reuse the floor-dry?