Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About JohnnyK

  • Rank
    Advanced member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Citrus Heights, CA
  • Interests
    Ceramics, glazing techniques, photography, farming, reading all kinds of stuff but primarily thrillers

Recent Profile Visitors

12,315 profile views
  1. If there is iron in the glaze, that might be the problem...here is an example of some pieces that are an example...The unit on the right has been fired without glaze and the one on the left has been fired with clear glaze. The initial coloring was red iron oxide. I was told that the RIO reacted with the clear when it was fired to ^06, thus causing the mottled coloring...there is the possibility that something similar is happening to you...
  2. You might try using shredded newspaper in your reduction bucket instead of the sawdust, you'll get a better burn there. Also, slow the original firing...20-30 minutes should work a lot better...
  3. What is your process after you reach the "wet" glaze stage? How do you reduce your pots? Some of your problems may be the use of so-called "regular" glazes instead of Raku glazes...
  4. I have found Amaco's Velvet underglazes to be true to color over their firing range and have fired them to ^06 and ^6 with outstanding results...an as @Bill Kielbsaid...well placed score lines on should fir the bill particularly on a thin walled piece.
  5. No offense here, blackthorne...no apology needed or accepted. What was the source for the ones on your tiles? I like the presentation and could incorporate them on some of my vases...
  6. As for the rust, Krud Kutter makes an excellent rust removal product Krud Kutter The Must for Rust 8 oz. Rust Remover and Inhibitor-MR086 - The Home Depot I've used a number of rust removers and found this one to be the best...
  7. Welcome to the forum, Titicaca...Your idea is not a good one and not something that will work IMO. It's not something that I have done before and don't plan on trying. The problem you have (as I see it) is the temps at which each clay would vitrify, but it also depends on what you plan on making with your marbled clay. If you fire it to the earthenware clay's vitrification temp, the stoneware will remain porous. If you fire to the stoneware temp, then the earthenware will almost definitely melt. I would stick with one or the other. However, there are many others here on the forum that will pro
  8. I just checked the operating manual that I have and it is the same one @Bill Kielb notes in his response...go with that. I used those basic instructions with my B23H for a year with good outcomes for low fire work until I installed and Orton digital controller. I ultimately sold that kiln to someone who just wanted to do low-fire work and bought a used FX23 to do cone 6 work and just plugged the newer kiln into the Orton controller.
  9. While you would not get the SAME effect, you might look into horsehair Raku...similar effects, much safer process...
  10. Welcome to the forum, Mare...Was the clay a ^6 clay? If so, it will probably be vitrified and food safe but seriously, it wouldn't hurt to re-glaze the inside and refire the piece...BTW What glaze combination did you use?
  11. 10,000 Years of Pottery by Emmanuel Cooper that I got from a friend as a Christmas gift...just getting into it...
  12. Why not make the above out of clay? Throw a shallow bowl with a hollow riser in the middle and trim a foot ring in the bottom with a notch or two or three (like a berry bowl). Open the hollow shaft to the bottom and scribe a glaze level line on the inside...
  13. This was an attempt at reproducing a particular glaze style on 6 bowls for a kinda matched set. I thought they came out pretty close...
  14. I've found that a belt can also be used to reduce the need for suspenders but the ones made with clay tend to fall apart...
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.