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Everything posted by JohnnyK

  1. What I do is break the dried glaze into smaller chunks and run them through a coffee bean grinder that I picked up at a thrift store for a couple of bucks, dedicated specifically for this purpose. It does a great job and provides a fine powder which is very easy to reconstitute with water to the desired consistency. Remember to unplug and thoroughly clean the grinder after each use to prevent cross-contamination if you go this route...
  2. Going to install a neat mosaic in my brick patio this weekend. Pix to follow...

  3. I am in the process of finishing up a mosaic to be installed in a hole in my brick patio (pix to follow soon). The project was a collaboration between me, my wife, Carol, and my mother-in-law, Helen. I cut the backing disk and made the B-Mix5 leaves using cookie cutters, Helen brushed the underglaze on about 170 pieces, and she and Carol glued the pieces down after they were clear-coated and fired to ^6... Then I grouted the piece and prepped the hole for installation which will happen this weekend. We used Amaco Velvet underglazes and came up with some really great results. The colors were st
  4. I sign every piece I make whether it be an exotic pot or a mug or a spoon rest and get particular satisfaction when almost every person I've sold to actually looks at the bottom of the object to see if it is signed and is happy to see that it is...and since I log every piece that I make, I mark the bottom (using a glaze pencil) with a code that lets me reference the piece primarily for glaze application so that I can reproduce the look in the future.
  5. JohnnyK


    Cool look overall...but I find the unglazed portion at the bottom less than pleasing. Would it be possible with your glaze combo to bring one of the glazes to near the bottom without having it run?
  6. 3 coats PC33 Oatmeal over 3 coats PC31 Iron Lustre on Laguna B-Mix^5 +a narrow band of 3 Duncan Renaissance Shino cream on the rim of the hex vase gave me this look...while 3 coats PC33 Oatmeal over 3 coats PC31 Iron Lustre on Laguna B-Mix^5 gave this look on the tea cup... In your photo it looks like some combo that used Smokey Merlot as the base coat...you might try Oatmeal or Blue Rutile as the top coat. The Shino Cream makes for a runny "Hare's fur" look as evidenced in the hex vase.
  7. Beautiful work, Marcia...What is the size of the piece? Is it 6" or 16"?
  8. Thanks for the kudos! Here is the awarded submission and the PDF of the news article... citrusheightssentinel.com-Meet John Klunder the Citrus Heights man who works wonders with ceramics.pdf
  9. There's a couple of ways to go about that...First, take some sandpaper and try to smooth out the pitted exposed upper part of the shaft. Then spray the shaft/bearing with Liquid Wrench penetrating fluid and let it soak for whatever the directions say, then start by tapping the bearing with a hammer in the direction you want to remove the bearing. This works most of the time. As the bearing loosens, tap harder. In order to evenly distribute the hammer's impact, you might take a piece of 1x4 and cut a slot the width of the shaft about half way through the board which only has to be about 12" lo
  10. Welcome to the forum, Robin. From the pic of the bearing from the underside, it looks like you would remove the nuts from the housing and then use a pry bar to break the bearing away from the mounting surface. You would have to remove the bottom brace assembly to drop the flywheel and shaft from the table, which would enable you to remove the upper bearing from the shaft. With that done, measure the dimensions of the bearing and then go to www.graingers.com to get the replacements you need for the upper shaft and the bottom under the flywheel. You may even be able to find them on Amazon...Goo
  11. Some photos of the problem would help a lot in determining what the problem might be...
  12. The recent PBS Juror's Award for my Horsehair Raku submission and the follow up interview with a local news source has been my recent pat on the back!
  13. OK...As an ongoing part of this test series, I tried the LQ on another pot and it failed again, so I contacted the manufacturer about the problem. They asked me if I had thoroughly washed and dried the INSIDE of the pot before the LQ application. They said that even the smallest amount of dust or dirt could keep the LQ from properly and completely doing its job. I realized that I had not. Soooo...I'm going to try again, but this time I am going to seal the outside with a clear acrylic as I usually do after firing to keep the horsehair and feather residue in place before washing. Then I'll try
  14. Welcome to the forum, Kerryanne...can you post some pix of the teapot? It would give us an idea of how intricate the pot is and help with suggestions on how to create a mold...
  15. As many of you know, I’ve been pursuing a serious hobby in ceramics and pottery for the last decade or so. I’ve sold a bunch of stuff and have donated a bunch of stuff to various causes. Local PBS station KVIE-TV has been the recipient over the last 3 years and this time around I was recognized with their Juror’s Award for Sculpture for this collection of my Horsehair Raku…They, in turn, had put out a press release which was picked up by a local online news source, The Citrus Heights Sentinel. I was interviewed by a young, up and coming reporter, Rylie Freisen, and the attached PDF is the arti
  16. Just had an interview with a local online news source posted based on my KVIE-TV Juror's Award...Where would be the best place to post the PDF?

    1. Min


      Ceramics Events of Interest sounds about right. Looking forward to reading it.

  17. The wheel in the photo above looks like it has intact labels which should give you pertinent info regarding the wheel's manufacturer...
  18. Welcome to the forum, Laurabelle...would you be kind enough to post some of your pix here?
  19. Very nice look, Andrea...kinda Oriental...
  20. How about, if you have an idea of how you would like the "globs" to look, you create the globs with slip before glazing...like in the leather hard stage...?
  21. Hey, moh...could you reshoot the photos with the focus on the bottom of the mugs instead of the rims? It would give us a better look at what seems to be crud in the bottoms, possibly from dust or dirt or even kiln wash flakes from the bottom sides of shelves placed above the mugs. Are the glazes yours or commercial? Is there some commonality between the white and the red glazes?
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