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PeterH

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  1. In order to evaluate replies you will need to know what current you can draw from the socket. If it's the only socket on a 15A breaker I believe US "continuous load" regulations limit this to 12A. It might be worth starting a new thread to solicit the experts views on reconciling you ambitions and the limitations of your house wiring. PS I understand that if you regularly fire a kiln at its maximum rated temperature the life of the elements will be reduced considerably.
  2. A couple of previous threads. ... possibly defloculate ... mix well and possibly screen ... wash out sprayer as soon as you've finished
  3. For those that haven't seen it:
  4. I await the discussion with great interest. PS It's almost certainly irrelevant, but I'll mention an odd-ball method I once read about for reducing the adhesion between the casting and the mould. They were making a medical device that needed to be X-ray transparent, so the thin body was basically alumina and totally non-plastic. They found that mould release was more practicable if they first cast a very thin layer of paper fiber into the mould. It was obviously a high-value item, so mould life may not have been an issue. I don't think that there was much detail in the mould either.
  5. ... and presumably the "house" wiring needs to be rated for the new breaker size. Which might be an issue for some retro-fitters.
  6. Some ideas on the causes & avoidance of problems in: Microwave safe https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/forum/23-clay-and-glaze-chemistry/ PS Pedantically in the USA: ... although I expect that -- like many stress tests -- this only implies safe at the point of test rather than lifelong safety. [Unless you re-test after representative "wear and tear" such as crazing and chips.]
  7. If the crackle was pretty dense and it does re-craze it might be worth considering an "iron wire and golden thread" effect.
  8. At the top RHS of the green stripe near the top of the page. BUT the inbuilt search only looks at "active" threads. The only way I know to search closed threads is via a normal search engine. PS Personally I use google with something like this site:community.ceramicartsdaily.org aubergine ... which only gives 3 hits. BTW the site: directive works for google, but not for DuckDuckGo. No idea about other search engines. The search site: community.ceramicartsdaily.org gas kiln gave "About 2,740 results" for me. Although the exact number probably depends on the vagaries of the internet. Needless to say I usually only look at the first few hits (and other posts in the same thread). Frequently using their contents to refine the search terms - as I did when looking into manganese "violets".
  9. I haven't seen that, and would be interested if you have a ref. But I have seen occasional references to needing to let the pot dry sufficiently between glazing one surface and the other. ... this seems to be more of an issue with dipped glazes than painted ones.
  10. No, Min suggested switching to a commercial glaze used in an Amaco underglaze colour chart.
  11. Any relevance? https://digitalfire.com/material/gerstley+borate ... at the bottom of the page, discussing substituting Gillespie Borate for Gerstley Borate ... Clearly, the Floating Blue itself is firing greener than usual. And the Gillespie Borate version is much bluer. You may be used to something in between these two. The green tones could likely be restored by a reduction in the cobalt and increase in the iron oxide.
  12. I was interested to find this Australian article https://sydneynorthshoreelectrician.com.au/electrical-service-panel-how-to-calculate-electrical-load-capacity/ ... which contains these sentences It is commonly recommended that the load never exceeds 80 per cent of the capacity of an electrical service panel. and The National Electric Code recommends that the overall capacity of the load does not exceed 80 per cent, ... Which suggest to me that there is no regulation demanding "over-rating" of breakers (at least in that region of Australia). But there are both informal and formal recommendations that this be done - apparently for both continuous and non-continuous loads.
  13. It would be nice if you started a thread on the topic in say 3-12 months indicating your successes and failures in this area. PS A less well-known technique to achieve reduction. Which I think I've only seen mentioned in a 1932 paper on copper reds.
  14. Re-reading Digitalfire the second paragraph seems relevant.. Glaze Shivering https://www.digitalfire.com/trouble/glaze+shivering Shivering is the opposite of glaze crazing, the fired glaze is under compression and wants to flake off the body, especially at edges. However the route cause is a mismatch in the thermal expansions of body and glaze, thus the process of resolving it is similar as for crazing. It it much less common because glazes tend to have a higher thermal expansion than bodies and because they can tolerate being under compression much better than being under tension. Of course, if a glaze is under compression on the inside of a vessel, the body will be under tension and this can cause failure of the piece. When the body-glaze interface is not well developed an overly compressed glaze will be able to release itself much more easily, especially on the edges of contours. This can be the case, not only with low fired ware, but where engobes or slips are being used under the glaze. If the engobe does not contain enough flux to firmly adhere it to the body and develop hardness, it will not be able to bond to the glaze well. PS Time for some rim-shaped test-tiles?
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