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Found 25 results

  1. Hi my controller has decided to pack up I have a front loader kw9 cromartie kiln I was wondering do all controllers fit your program to controller ..? I hope that makes sense I’d love some opinions I don’t wanna buy something that doesn’t go with my Kiln cheers Lucky
  2. Hi! I am new to this wonderful community! I am a beginner potter. Started pottery at local studio but due to covid, I purchased my own wheel and now I am dying to get a Kiln in my garage. After a long research, I decided on L&L easy fire 28M, 240, 1 phase and even installed outlet and breakers. However, live near LA and all distributors near me are telling me it will take about 4-6 MONTHS to get a kiln. One distributor suggested Cress kiln with 4weeks turnaround time. the best quote I received was from the ceramic shop so far ( l&l) what do you guys suggest for me? 1. Wait 4-6 month to get l and l? 2. If I do, should I consider getting 28S (18” depth) or 28M (23” depth) 3. Buy Cress kiln and start firing in 4weeks? ( will need to research my cress kiln options ) I welcome all your expertise and suggestions! Thank you.
  3. I am looking to buy a used Gare 1818 from a guy on Craigslist, but I cannot find any information on this kiln. I realize it’s an older kiln model, and I read that Gare was rebranded to Evenheat. This would be my first kiln so I wanted to do my research, and I was hoping to find a manual or something online but I’m coming up empty. Does anyone have any information on this kiln? Used kilns are hard to come by in my area, so I’m debating on just buying it anyway, and hoping for the best.
  4. I am interested in Your input... I want to tile my bathroom myself, using tiles I created with molds. So the tiles created MUST be WATER PROOF! Firing the green ware using a home kiln, using my 110v house hold run wiring. Finally after firing to bisque, glazing to fire. I live in a townhouse so extra venting or drilling is not possible. I know this venture is going to take forever unless Covid takes me. What kind of kiln? How and why. I use to help my mom when she use to do ceramics. Way back with cones and giant kilns. So not what I want nor need
  5. I have a L&L JD 18 240-1 that I purchased new in 2002. Shortly after purchasing, my pottery life took a long hiatus. It's only been fired just over 30 times, a mix of bisque and glaze firings. I've recently gotten back into pottery and have been experiencing ongoing issues with reaching temperature at cones 5 and 6. The thermocouples have been replaced and are type K with the open ceramic sleeves that extend past the metal portion. I have a TCOS of 35 degrees F to account for the ceramic tube. I did this Based on advice from L&L tech support after over firing based on Orton cones without the offset. I've put in new L&L elements and replaced the Dynatrol with a Genesis 2.0 controller. The firing information coming from the Genesis has been great. I can now see that part of the problem is that the kiln is struggling to climb more than 65 degrees per hour during the last ramp section of a fast fire ^6 program. This cone 6 firing with the 35 degree offset produced Orton ^7 touching the shelf with glazes running. When I adjust the TCOS to achieve an Orton ^6, the offset is 55 degrees but the glaze is underfired. I'm assuming this is due to ^6 being achieved through heat work at the end of the firing instead of final temperature. Will this kiln not be able to climb the 108 degrees per hour at the end? Is it due to not having 3" brick? I've attached the firing file for a better description than I'm able to provide. Any help would be greatly appreciated! kiln firing graph ^6 Dec 12 2020.pdf
  6. Does anyone know anything about Jonwig kilns?
  7. Hi All, writing as an American from East Coast but living in Denmark. I am in need of a new kiln after buying 2 used that I couldn't get working properly (I live on an island with only 6,000 people - none knowledgeable about kiln tech/specs/operation/parts etc. and my husband and I are useless for various reasons. I will sell the 2 to people off the island and get back some money). In Denmark there is one manufacturer of kilns and, as such, they get hefty prices for quality I'm not so sure about. Before, I buy, I'd love to hear anyone's recommendations, experience or knowledge of qualities/reliability/durability of kilns in EU (some being sold in the U.S. as well)? (Rhode, Nabertherm, Paragon, Olympic, Cromartie, Potterycrafts, possibly Skutt- many others made in the UK)? I would absolutely be buying an L&L in the U.S. if I were there (and couldn't join a shared studio). Rhode and Nabertherm are closest to where I live in Denmark. L&L does not have a supplier in EU, though I do have one on the East Coast who will ship to me - so I am considering that too. I know though that customs duties will be outrageous, and tax will include the duties and shipping costs plus price and tax the whole amount at 25%! All those I can find in EU will require shipping to where I live so would consider the right kiln from UK or other EU countries. Any ideas - they will be highly appreciated! THANKS in advance
  8. Hi folks, once again no questions in the QotW question pool, but I will attempt to raise another once again. I was making a list of parts I needed to repair my kiln the other day, and had taken off the switch panel of the L& L and taking a few pictures made determinations on the web site using the serial # of the kiln to choose replacement parts. I also had checked into areas of if this burns out, replace it, but also replace x, y. or z. This got me to thinking about the types of things that have made me grow experience wise in the HS studio, and in the shop at home. . . making repairs! I know that many out there have a handy better half that do repairs, others have friends or other potters nearby always handy to fix something or at least lead the way. Still others out there will call in a specialist to repair the kiln, fix the wheel or such. Over the years I have found that my understanding of the equipment is often better than some of the so called specialists that I have had looking at things. Not going further. . . QotW: When something breaks down, how do you deal with it? best, Pres
  9. Help please! I have an old Paragon SNF-24 that I’ve never been able to successfully fire to cone 6. It bisques just fine. It stalls at about 1980F though. Since I’m about 115 ft from fuse box I had a #3 gauge copper wiring added, new disconnect box and hard wired the kiln. Now it stalls at @ 2080F. Electricians have tested voltage, ohms, and newish coils, new wires, barrels, etc. Never has it tripped the breaker. Just ordered ceramic blanket to add to space between kiln and floating lid to keep heat in. What am I missing? Or do I just give up?
  10. Week 42 The preferable method of casting a catenary arch kiln is to use the casting material on the: Outside of the form upside down. on the outside of the form right side up. on the inside of the form right side up. on the inside of the form upside down. The project casting in the book used a mix that was: hand mixed sand, vermiculite, clay and concrete hand mixed commercial Vari-Form B commercial Carborundum's LDS Moldable hand mixed sawdust, pea grog, clay, and cement Three things can be done to improve the strength and working properties of the casting mix: application of a heavy coating of ceramic-fiber liquid cement upon the interior surface of the cured casting; embedding lath wire one inch into the center of the tamping mix during application onto the arch form; and the use of_________________ instead of water. 50/50 water and dish detergent 50/50 sodium silicate and water colloidal-silica liquid mortar set liquid The ______________ brick is the load-bearing brick which takes the thrust from the completed arch. Keystone channel arch skew This weeks Pottery Quiz of the Week questions come from: Kiln Building with Spage-Age Materials, Frank A. Colson, c. 1975, Van Norstrand Reinhold Company, New York,NY Note from Pres: Always interested in kilns and firing, this book seemed appropriate for the Space Age, and from an energy-efficient standpoint. After all, we were having problems with petroleum fuels at the time, and many were changing over to electric, or insulating their kilns more for greater efficiency.
  11. Week 41 A kiln design that contains the walls and the arch in one curve is the________________ kiln. Sprung arch Bound arch Catenary arch Barrel arch Domes and Crowns differ from sprung arches in that an arch describes a portion of a cylinder, while a dome or crown describes a portion of a _____________. parabola sphere hyperbola cone One Principle of kiln design the author states is that the chimney is approximately one-fourth to one-fifth of the ____________________ diameter. chamber damper door total inlet An _______________________ kiln is an example of a _________________ type kiln. Down-draft anagama cross-draft updraft This weeks Pottery Quiz of the Week questions come from: The Kiln Book, second edition, Frederick L. Olsen, c. 1983, Chilton Book Company/Radnor, PA Note from Pres: In the 80's as a new art teacher, new to ceramics, I considered building my own kiln. Alas, it did not happen, but I read a lot of books on kiln building, firing, and repairs. Some of which I have used over the years, some not. However, for anyone starting with kiln construction this book is a gem. There may be newer techniques out there today, but he does cover Fiber construction, alternative fuels, and multi chambered kilns. Answer Key: 3. Catenary arch-from the text.Pp. 35 2. Sphere—from the text Pp.36 1. chamber-from the text Pp61 Principle 6 2. anagama, 3. cross-draft-Crossdraft kilns originated in the Orient. The exact location and time is impossible to determine, but it is probably safe to assume that China, Korea, and Japan simultaneously developed similar crossdraft kilns known as bank or hole kilns. The hole kilns were in use during the Asuka period in Japan, the Sui period in China, and the Silla period in Korea. In Japan they were called Anagama, ana meaning hole or cavity and gama meaning kiln.
  12. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A wood fired climbing kiln that was fired in the Longwood Avenue section of Brookline (part of Boston) for many years. Afterburners on the chimney controlled the smoke outside the kiln building.

    © john baymore -all rigthts reserved

  13. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A small propane fired sprung catenary arch crossdraft kiln.

    © John baymore -all rights reserved

  14. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A natural gas fired downdraft soda kiln constructed at a workshop I gave at the Harvard University Ceramics Program.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  15. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A small Bizen-style climbing kiln.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  16. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane fired gas kiln with a hinged door constructed at the Silvermine Art School in CT.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  17. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A crossdraft propane fired gas kiln.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  18. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    And example of one page of gas kiln plans.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  19. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane gas fired car kiln built in a workshop held in Virginia.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  20. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane gas fired car kiln built in a workshop held in Virginia.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  21. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A rear-fired natural gas downdraft kiln.

    © John Baymore - all rights reserved

  22. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    The five chamber noborigama located at River Bend Pottery constructed 1980.

    © 2010 John Baymore -all rights reserved

  23. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A kiln building workshop I ran for the NH Potters Guild for building a combination wood fired and also gas fired crossdraft kiln. Here, the kiln is being built in the early stages.

    © John Baymore - all rights reserved

  24. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A large 'hybrid' design of a Japanese anagama and a US southestern groundhog kiln concept built in Japan.

    © 2009 J. Baymore - all rights reserved

  25. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A large 'hybrid' design of a Japanese anagama and a US southestern groundhog kiln concept built in Japan. (Just behind it in the background of the image is a large X type crossdraft kiln built by Fred Olsen.)

    © 2009 J. Baymore - all rights reserved

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