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  1. Hi All, writing as an American from East Coast but living in Denmark. I am in need of a new kiln after buying 2 used that I couldn't get working properly (I live on an island with only 6,000 people - none knowledgeable about kiln tech/specs/operation/parts etc. and my husband and I are useless for various reasons. I will sell the 2 to people off the island and get back some money). In Denmark there is one manufacturer of kilns and, as such, they get hefty prices for quality I'm not so sure about. Before, I buy, I'd love to hear anyone's recommendations, experience or knowledge of qualitie
  2. Hi folks, once again no questions in the QotW question pool, but I will attempt to raise another once again. I was making a list of parts I needed to repair my kiln the other day, and had taken off the switch panel of the L& L and taking a few pictures made determinations on the web site using the serial # of the kiln to choose replacement parts. I also had checked into areas of if this burns out, replace it, but also replace x, y. or z. This got me to thinking about the types of things that have made me grow experience wise in the HS studio, and in the shop at home. . . making repairs!
  3. Help please! I have an old Paragon SNF-24 that I’ve never been able to successfully fire to cone 6. It bisques just fine. It stalls at about 1980F though. Since I’m about 115 ft from fuse box I had a #3 gauge copper wiring added, new disconnect box and hard wired the kiln. Now it stalls at @ 2080F. Electricians have tested voltage, ohms, and newish coils, new wires, barrels, etc. Never has it tripped the breaker. Just ordered ceramic blanket to add to space between kiln and floating lid to keep heat in. What am I missing? Or do I just give up?
  4. Hello! Ive been building a home studio and am at the stage where I would really like a kiln (thinking the Skate KM-1027) but feel out of my depth. The studio I currently fire at is wildly unpredictable and I frequently come out with things that are unsaleable or they dont make it out of the fire at all. Im in Los Angeles and would love a mentor of sorts who could help me with the process. Anyone in LA? thanks!
  5. Hello! Im slowly building a home studio and am ready to add a kiln. Is there anyone in Los Angeles who has an electrician they would recommend? Thanks!!
  6. Hello! Ive been building a home studio and am at the stage where I would really like a kiln (thinking the Skate KM-1027) but feel out of my depth. The studio I currently fire at is wildly unpredictable and I frequently come out with things that are unsaleable or they dont make it out of the fire at all. Im in Los Angeles and would love a mentor of sorts who could help me with the process. Anyone in LA? thanks!
  7. Hi there! After receiving some truly valuable information from a knowledgeable community member on here, I've decided to give up on my old kiln and invest in a new one. Since then I've begun researching which kiln might be right for me. I am planning on only firing low fire, cone 06 clay, and glaze of the same cone temperature. I would love a kiln that might double as a jewelry making kiln so that I may create some pieces out of metal clay as well. I came across the Evenheat Kingpin 88 on a ceramics website, and at first glance, thought it might be perfect. However, everywhere that s
  8. Hello everyone, I am writing this post due to hope of meeting with someone who may help me to build a downdraft gas fired kiln. I have the book of Frederick Olsen's Kiln Book and in my opinion it has enough information to design a kiln but it may take a lot of time when I start doing that. I only start making ceramics and will be very appreciated ıf I can find someone to give me a hand.. That's why I just want to ask people on here and maybe somebody would like to share a kiln plan (preferentially 1m3) which had been tested before. Thank you in advance!
  9. I have a Kiln which working well. Is over fired in the bottom and never reaches temperature in the top . No matter of firing schedules , soaking . All the elements are in working order, Its to have too many elements in the base to compare with the top . Has anyone ever experience this ?
  10. Looking to purchase a new kiln to keep up with increasing demand of a busy community studio. I'm thinking an oval 16/18 cu ft will fit the bill. We fire to cone 6. It would be on 240 V 3P. Any opinions on the oval Skutt VS the Cone Art? Skutt 23.6KW VS Cone art 16.6KW How is it to change elements on the cone art? How many firings are you getting? Are they even? Thank you for your time Colleen
  11. HI there. I've literally joined this group today as it seems like everyone is really knowledgeable and I was hoping you may be able to help me figure out whether you think it's worth it to buy a new kiln or take a chance on a second-hand one? I've been looking on eBay as it's cheaper to buy second hand but being completely new to pottery I don't really know what I'm looking for. I would like to have the option to fire porcelain eventually so it would have to be able to reach those temps, but apart from that there are so many options....it seems to be a bit of a minefield. I don't reallywan
  12. So, ive created this account specifically for help! ive been given two very old electric kilns, seems to be from the 70s perhaps? anyways, one is an American Beauty electric kiln model number: AB18 this thing has four switches and a kiln sitter. seems to be in relatively good condition from what my ceramic instructor had said. Problem is ive never fired a kiln and there is almost zero information on the kilns manual or even the company that produced the kiln. I find that almost unbelievable seeing as I live 5 miles from the city the kiln company was located. If anyone has any further informati
  13. Hi! I am new to the group so I apologize if this is an old question. I have two Paragon kilns and no idea how old they are. I also have no idea when they were last used. I'm assuming it's been more than 10 years. What is the best way to check if they even work without plugging them in and causing damage to them or the electric! Or is there a way to check? What do I need to look for? (My first kilns!) Thanks! Angelia
  14. Week 42 The preferable method of casting a catenary arch kiln is to use the casting material on the: Outside of the form upside down. on the outside of the form right side up. on the inside of the form right side up. on the inside of the form upside down. The project casting in the book used a mix that was: hand mixed sand, vermiculite, clay and concrete
  15. Hi - I was doing a glaze fire to cone 5 last night, and due to a dumb mistake on my part, the kiln shut off an hour too early. My question is this: can I save these pots by refiring them to the correct temperature? Can I do this without reglazing them? Is it even worth it? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
  16. Week 41 A kiln design that contains the walls and the arch in one curve is the________________ kiln. Sprung arch Bound arch Catenary arch Barrel arch Domes and Crowns differ from sprung arches in that an arch describes a portion of a cylinder, while a dome or crown describes a portion of a _____________. parabola sphere
  17. Week 37 I realize that this book may be out of date with the newer technologies, but it may be a place spur further discussion with those of you who have first person experience building kilns. In the 20th century there were two great debates about refractories for kilns. The first of these involved the use of hard brick vs. ______________________. The second of these involved the use of insulating firebrick vs.________________________. ceramic fiber, hard brick ceramic fiber, cast insulation insulating firebrick,
  18. I'm self-taught and a relative newbie. I am so confused about glaze & bisque firing in terms of venting, peep holes, and/or cracking the lid. I have an electric kiln with digital controller and it's outside so I have no extra ventilating system. My Evenheat kiln has one small hole in the top that does not have a plug (always open) and one side peephole with a plug. 1)when bisque firing, does the lid need to be cracked and/or the peephole open for any part of the firing? 2)when glaze firing, same questions? Thank you for any insights.
  19. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A wood fired climbing kiln that was fired in the Longwood Avenue section of Brookline (part of Boston) for many years. Afterburners on the chimney controlled the smoke outside the kiln building.

    © john baymore -all rigthts reserved

  20. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A small propane fired sprung catenary arch crossdraft kiln.

    © John baymore -all rights reserved

  21. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A natural gas fired downdraft soda kiln constructed at a workshop I gave at the Harvard University Ceramics Program.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

  22. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A small Bizen-style climbing kiln.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  23. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A propane fired gas kiln with a hinged door constructed at the Silvermine Art School in CT.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  24. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    A crossdraft propane fired gas kiln.

    © John Baymore -all rights reserved

  25. From the album: Kilns designed/constructed by John Baymore

    And example of one page of gas kiln plans.

    © john baymore -all rights reserved

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