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TonyC

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About TonyC

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  1. I am about to embark on some handbuilding exercises after completing a recent workshop. One of the styles requires a white slip atop a clay of choice. I would take any advice for the best clays for handbuilding, and then also the best white slip recipe for it to match. I have some Laguna WC608 clay at the house which I will use to start. I know that matching 'shrinkage' for clay and slip is an important characteristic and the WC608 has a 10.9% percentage (http://www.lagunaclay.com/clays/northeastern/wc608.php). Can anyone offer advice or other suggestions for these combinations? Thanks in advance.
  2. Just checking....the proper setting to shut the temp down 10 degrees lower is 9910, correct?
  3. Thanks Neil for the validation. I will occasionally run a Cone 5, but otherwise, simply 6. I just checked my records and on June 30th I ran cone 5. The program states 2165 F temp, and the actual was 2177 F. I didn't leave any comments on the witness cones, so I assume nothing dramatic showed, but isn't there a 30 degree window between cone differences? So I should at least measure again, but maybe offset cones for Cone 5 as well. Thanks for the input. T
  4. Thanks for taking the time to explain things. I will consider each item. Much appreciated.
  5. Total time was 10 hr 28 min. This is with a 1 hr 30 min preheat. Therefore ~9 hours if we back out pre-heat. I know that it can vary based on how full it was and the radiant energy generated. I have logged that my previous slow glaze firing on Aug 18 took 7 hr 34 min (but there was no preheat). This variance to my recent firing is worth noting, especially since both final temps reached 2236 F. As for the elements, they are new. I changed them (and thermocouples) when I bought the "used" kiln with only 63 firings total. I am now at 85 firings total (22 on new elements). As for the offset, the L&L has a built in offset (I think 18 degrees) to compensate for the tubes. I'd need to double check. Any CNOS adjustment would be additional to this value and programmed separately.
  6. As noted, I have an L&L e23S-3 kiln which I recently fired to cone 6. Settings were: Cone 6 Slow Glaze (pre-programmed), 1 hr 30 min preheat, no hold The final reading showed 2236 F, but both my Cone 7 witness cones slumped (more on top shelf). I am attaching photo. (Reference: witness cones front - bottom shelf Cone 7 far right, witness cones back - top shelf Cone 7 far left) I know I can adjust the CNOS, but have a basic question regarding the kiln at higher temps. I ran the Cone 06 bisque earlier in the week and it was perfect; both the temp recorded and witness cone results. However, this is the second time that I noticed a variance when I ran to the hotter Cone 6. Is that normal for a kiln to lose some of its accuracy at higher temps? Based on this, is it time to make the CNOS adjustment? If so, is there a "rule-of-thumb" regarding incremental changes? My initial reaction is 10 degrees based on the witness cone 7 results (setting 9910), but would appreciate any insight. Thank you.
  7. Thanks Bill. I found that one as well. I am intrigued with the product, although less so for food safety as I would have my concerns. However, I would love to simply offer saggar fired pots/vases which could hold water. Liquid quartz looks like a nice option except for the price. FlexSeal could work but I wonder about the "look" it creates.
  8. Marcia Where do you find the liquid quartz? Are there various forms of it? I have actually heard of it for auto detailing. Not sure if it is the same stuff.
  9. I had a workshop this past weekend and the instructor spoke very highly of the Bailey slab roller. Maybe someday if I begin to hand build more.
  10. Thanks. Weight becomes very important with these slabs (especially with large amounts of clay).
  11. This is what I started searching for. Do you know a brand? I saw a used pin on Craigslist which was a Thorpe, but I think it had a finish on it and I was afraid to buy it. Should I make sure to stay away from a finish? It seems from all comments that this is a critical point. I am attaching a side view of the product I looked at.
  12. Some one I know recently mentioned Flexseal as well. Do you know how it would be applied? This could be an approach for some vases that I've created. Thanks. T
  13. I was recently introduced to handbuilding over the weekend and am extremely inspired. I am now looking to invest in some items, and find myself asking a seemingly silly question regarding rolling pins. I know that I want a wider one (18"+), but noted that there are a variety of finishes and designs (e.g., lacquered, bare finish, metal bearings, plastic bearings, NO bearings, etc.). What matters for rolling out clay? I am a hobbyist and do not have any large volume demands. Any insight and information is welcomed. Thanks. T
  14. This does seem to make a lot of sense. As I mentioned, I got used to the clay for pit firing, but those pots are strictly for aesthetics. Thanks for the sound advice.
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