Roberta12

Whatever makes it easier for the moderators to take care of spam. I don't log out on my laptop. So it just pops up. I don't usually access CAD forum from my phone, because I can't remember my password!

I mostly use Amaco simply because that is what I was first introduced to. I have some Duncan underglazes and they are great as well. However, Speedball is a LOT less expensive and if you are using a lot of underglaze in your work, take a look at speedball. At this point I have my color palette dialed in with Amaco, but I am going to get some small bottles of Speedball and do a little testing. I have heard good reports on that company. And I have used both glossy clear and matte over the Amaco Underglazes without an issue. The only problem I have had is pink and maroon burned out and if I apply the Warm gray too thickly, it crawls (lesson learned) Hope that helps. Roberta

Last year a chunk of glaze fell into one small section of the channel, burning out the element and messing up the channel.. We took the kiln apart and removed that brick/channel and put it all back together. Yeah, pins won't work but I think they are properly seated in the channels now. That is the beauty of the L&L. I ran a bisque load last night. When it cools I hope to find all the elements still in their channels. If not, I will work on it. Potters are handy people! And not easily discouraged! I only have occasional moments of panic now.

thanks for the good words. I did put the elements back in the channels. Is the one I have a close up of going to be a problem since it's wonky? I did the paper test and all elements were firing. Whew! I really appreciate your help. Roberta

Thanks all. Going to go out to the shop after dinner and try to maneuver them back into place. Seriously, what was I thinking?? I have changed those elements 7 times! grrrr.

Thanks @Bill Kielb Yes, they are the right ones. I truly do have the best phone support. A service guy in Portland but I always have to stretch them a bit, maybe 3 inches in order to get them seated in the channels. And I am very cautious about stretching them too much. I think I erred in the other direction. Should I put the torch right on the element, then poke it in the channel??

I wanted to name this post "oh poop" but decided against that. I changed the elements and thermocouples yesterday, then ran a fast glaze cone 5 load. The ramps and temps were spot on. I opened the lid this morning to find this. This is the first time this has happened and my husband asked "were the elements too short? Were they all seated in the channels?" I have to say, no they weren't. They were slightly extending but to my way of thinking they would have settled back into the channels. But I was wrong. So my question is, can I heat them up with a torch and poke them back in the channel?? I really don't want to purchase new elements. ugh. Next question, how long before I am no longer making stupid mistakes?????

I just had a conversation with a teacher about Amaco's Warm Gray ug. I had several pots that the gray and only the gray, crawled in the glaze firing. She said that particular color will give a person problems if you put it on too thick or too many coats. It is rather thin out of the bottle, so I gave a 2nd and perhaps even a 3rd coat. And it crawled on both stoneware and porcelain. And my application was on greenware. I have previously used it on bisque without a problem. Perhaps that is because the bisque absorbed more than the greenware? Not sure, but note to self....thinner application of Warm Gray. And...That could be the problem for you as well @ronfire Just a thought!

you are da Bomb. Thanks! Roberta

Can you tell by feeling each piece? Porcelain has a smoother feel and is usually lighter in weight?

@SweetheartSister I have used underglazes in a variety of ways. I agree with what you said about not applying the underglaze in the greenware state if your piece is small and fragile. I learned that the hard way. Perhaps I have been doing it wrong but I do not do your step #2 . I put the clear glaze on top of the underglaze ( make sure your underglaze is dry) and fire to cone 6. Done. Recently I have been doing some newsprint slip transfer work and I have been applying that to greenware pieces. Larger pieces like cups/planter/bowls, things that are not as fragile as delicate animals, jewelry or buttons (I use a lot of porcelain too!) And I have also started using underglaze on some larger pieces in the greenware state and doing some carving. Then bisque, then apply clear glaze and fire to cone 6. I like underglaze for it's ability to be used in a number of ways. I have applied underglaze for years to bisqueware. Nary a problem. But....I am trying to do more of the underglaze work on leatherhard/greenware simply because it speeds up the final glazing process. Your animals are beautiful! Wonderful detail! Roberta

I have switched clays. I do not use clay with a wide firing temp. There are a lot of choices out there. And while I will be on the search for the perfect clay to the end of my days, it was easier for me to switch clays. However, I have tried a couple of new clays recently and I use clear for a lot of my work, I found I did have crazing issues. And I am now in the process of trying different clear recipes (thanks @Min) Roberta

If I read the website for this clay correctly, it is rated mature up to cone 9. Would that have been an issue?? I have had problems with clays that have that wide maturation. You know, like 5-9 or 5-10? just wondering.

I used to make cute little dishes with glass in the bottom, intended for jewelry use. But when I had someone tell me they were using it for ketchup and a piece of the glass came out, I stopped doing that!!! Once someone buys something from you, you have NO control over how they are going to use that piece. Personally I felt it was a lawsuit waiting to happen. Roberta

I love my Dremel. I bought a really cheap, really really cheap knockoff to begin with and it did not do the trick. I bought a Dremel brand when the local hardware store had some coupons. I like that cone shaped bit to grind off whatever it is that pops up on my porcelain plates. Then I put more glaze on that spot and refire. I like Pres's idea of using them to carve wooden stamps. Great ideas here!