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  1. What did Standard say when you let them know about the shivering? Did you give them the lot numbers? Could be that you got some that wasn't mixed properly. Thicker will just make the shivering worse. Shivering can happen with any claybody but is most common with white lowfire bodies and isn't very common with mid and high fire. Advantage of going to a midrange claybody for functional ware is if you choose a clay that has less than 2% absorption then you won't have issues with pots getting hot in the microwave, crazing and weeping from moisture seeping into the clay and they tend to chi
  2. Given that it's expensive for you to get materials shipped in I would use what you have already. If the Sherrill So Clear fits your claybody without crazing then the least expensive fix for this would be to add some epsom salts solution to stop the hard-panning and use it as a dipping glaze. If you want to brush it then order in some CMC gum and use the gum solution in the glaze, it's something that is used in many applications, not something that is only available from pottery supply places. Epsom salts should be available in your local drugstore, it's not very expensive. If you already
  3. I'm a firm believer in having a legible stamp/signature, can't count the times I've gotten repeat orders from people contacting me from my stamp on the bottom of pots. All the work helps pay the bills, simple small pots (which are my best sellers) or one offs. You could always use 2 stamps/signatures, one for the bread and butter pots and another for your high end one offs.
  4. @Rita Mattson, are you brushing this glaze on also? Like was mentioned by Liam in your other post about issues with a clear glaze, a dipping glaze doesn't work well by brushing if it is only mixed with water. It needs to be made with either a commercial brushing medium or you need to make your own CMC gum solution and use that as part of the water content of the glaze. I think your cracking issue could be from too thick a layer of glaze. To make your own CMC brushing medium sprinkle 35 grams of CMC powder into 1 litre (or quart) of very hot water. Mix it up a bit, it will clump but don't worry
  5. Post a picture, could be flecks of spalled thermocouple if it's not in a protection tube or bits from a rusty lid band or spitting from something in the kiln.
  6. Just to add one more thing, when you get the glaze working the way you want it to measure the specific gravity of the glaze. It can be misleading when you add a flocculant, the glaze will seem "thicker" or denser than it actually is. It's a bit like adding cornstarch to thicken sauces or gravies, it thickens them up but the amount of water in the sauce/glaze hasn't decreased. How to measure glaze specific gravity here if you need it (about 3/4 the way down). I find it useful to always measure the specific gravity of a glaze, especially a new one, regardless of whether it's flocculated, deflocc
  7. @Smokey2, good idea. I'll do a test post to see if it deletes the moved post as well as the linked notice. edit: Okay, just tried it, it deleted the moved post as well so it's not possible for now. I'll ask admin if there's a workaround.
  8. Get the batch number code from the box and talk to your supplier and/or Standard. Tell them about the shivering and ask if it is a bad clay batch issue. Ask if they have had similar reports from other potters.
  9. Thanks for posting the picture, yes, that is shivering. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do to save these mugs, they would be dangerous to use and should be smashed prior to disposing of them. Shivering is the opposite of crazing, the glaze is under too much compression and flakes/chips away from the body. Since you are using a commercial glaze we can't offer a fix for the glaze recipe but you are going to need to try a different glaze or a different claybody. Clay and glaze need to "fit" each other. I'ld suggest just buying a small amount of a different line of glaze and make up some qu
  10. @Tsculpt, the reason we are all asking for photos of the chipping is because it could well be shivering thats happening. Shivering is when there isn't a good fit between the clay and the glaze and sharp little shards of glaze either spontaneously break off (usually on rims or edges) or it can happen when rims or edges are tapped. Shivering is obviously dangerous, especially with functional ware, can't tell without a photo if it might be that or simply chipping from a weak underfired body or glaze.
  11. Yes, infrared is necessary if you are looking into a hot kiln. #3 lens like these ones.
  12. Vinegar works well for cleaning mold soap off the plaster. I think the plaster is probably softening the wax as it heats up during the curing and that's what is causing the chunks of plaster attached to the wax. It's just getting too hot. Plaster does expand ever so slightly so I've found it's best to remove whatever is being cast as the plaster is cooling down rather than waiting until it's cooled right down. Mold soap / Murphy's oil / mold lube etc don't bond permanently, sealers do though.
  13. Some glazes need a flocculant to keep them suspended. One that is easy to find at grocery or drug stores is epsom salts. Stir as much epsom salts into a cup or so of very hot water until no more will dissolve then stir in a teaspoon of this saturated epsom salts solution at a time until the glaze won't settle. Rough ball park figure is about 1 tsp of epsom salts solution to 1 gallon of glaze. If the glaze is just stuck on the bottom and being stubborn and not budging then dumping the water into a second bucket and using a loop tool to cut and scoop out the glaze works well. Stir a bit of
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