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About docweathers

  • Rank
    Gismo Guy
  • Birthday 09/01/1944

Profile Information

  • Location
    Spokane Wa
  • Interests
    Cone 6, gas and electric, thrown pottery
    Large welded sculpture from scrap metal

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  1. I have experimented with a single layer of clear over encapsulated stains and that certainly helps. The idea of repeated firing of thin coats is interesting, but I really don't understand how that would work. I have no experience in refiring pots. I don't understand how you would not just melt both the prior layer and the most recent layer of clear so that it would behave like a thicker original coat. Please explain. I did find some pictures of Ron Nagle's work on the web, but it is hard to appreciate the depth of the glaze from the pictures.
  2. Thanks of the good ideas. I will give them a try.
  3. I like some of the colors that I get using encapsulated stains but I don't like how monochromatic they are. What can I do to get a little more depth to the colors?
  4. I have been researching tyvek. There are dozens of textures, coatings, thicknesses etc. It may turn out to be an interesting process to figure out which one would work best. For what I can tell, ones that start with 14 and end with D may be my best candidates. They are soft and tend to be more water absorbent. Of course, there are zillions of types that have those designations. UGH!!
  5. Now I have to dig through my junk to find a scrap to try in my Cameo to see how well it will cut.
  6. Has anyone ever tried the Tyvek for stencils for glaze on the bisque ware? With that expert level of encouragemet, I will give it a go and let you know what happens
  7. Has anyone ever tried the Tyvek for stencils for glaze on the bisque ware?
  8. I tried the sand and I got the worst cracking ever.
  9. I really like glazes such as lalone crawl and binger that tend to crack and peel off like potato chips when applied over other glazes. I have struggled with different ways to get them to stick on vertical surfaces. I think I finally found something that works. I noticed that when the potato chips would peel off they would have a layer of the underlying glaze on their bottom side. This to me meant that the potato chips were sticking but the underlying glaze was not strong enough to resist their pull. I have found that brushing a couple of thick layers of CMC solution over the underlying glaze and letting it dry until it is still just slightly tacky strengthens it. The potato chip glaze applied over it sticks well to the still slightly tacky CMC without pulling up part of the underlying glaze.
  10. Yep that's the one ... thanks I messaged PDwhite to see what he's up to
  11. If I remember correctly, there was a thread on how to do reduction in an electric kiln by introducing a little propane. I thought I was subscribed to it. I haven't heard from it in a long time and I can't find that thread. If I'm not delusional, can someone point me to that discussion. By the way, I discussed this with Skutt technical support. They thought it was a good strategy to build a bomb
  12. I just dug out a quart of paper clay from the back of my refrigerator. I made it a couple of years ago with wood fiber and a few drops of chlorine bleach. There is not one black spot in it. It smells sweet and is perfectly smooth.
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