Chilly

Throwing anything beyond centering and coning. Handbuilding large items and having them survive my clumsiness !

It's amazing how we each define "area". I think of anwhere less than 30 minute drive as "my" area. We used to have a ceramics class at the local "over 50 day centre", but they moved us out and couldn't find a new location, so until that building is knocked down and it's replacement built, we have no ceramics class. Half the tools and small equipment are stored in my shed, the other half in the tutor's shed. They sold the kiln, wheels and pugmill back to the local dealer. As for a community studion that is open more than 2 hours a week, and has facilities for other crafts - the answer is no. I'm sure there are community facilities further out, but as I'm not interested in driving that far, I have no knowledge.

This is often the case. You need some sandpaper and just put it on the worksurface, then draw circles with the plates on the sandpaper. Start with a medium coarse grit, then switch to a finer one. I've done this with every piece of ceramic I've bought over the past 40+ years, and my dad did the same.

@Miletus McKee if this is the problem, put a drinking straw into the sprue hole while you pour - it helps air get in quickly, thus preventing collapse.

Oooh, I wish winter in the UK was this warm . I have problems with slip taking a long time to set up in temperatures lower than 15C. The worst weather is damp. It can take 10 minues in dry 20C and 30 to 60 minutes in damp 10C. I have not had problems with strength, only the amount of time it takes to become thick enough to pour out and dry enough to un-mould. And your English is very good, I understood your question. I hope my answer might be a little bit helpful. Sorry if it doesn't answer your question.

The easy answer is Yes. Then you have to work out how many pieces your mould needs. Think of making a mould for a sphere. You need two pieces and can make the join anywhere so long as it is EXACTLY halfway. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to remove the casting. It would, however be much easier and less stressful to make a 3 part mould. Now think of making an apple mould. You need to make the join across the horizontal, so each half can lift away from the indents where the stalk and flower were. So, you have to look at this object from all angles and work out how a piece of the mould would pull away from the casting. If the "saucer" were flat, you might get away with a 2-part mould, but I think a six part would be easier. Three wedge shapes for the top and three wedge shapes for the bottom. Sorry, can't draw, but I bet someone else here can....

Couldn't live without them. Almost all of my dinnerware is Denby. Some is mine. Almost none is by "a potter", anything not mine or denby is because I needed a vase this size, or came before my pottery interest.

Books, and here.

Other half is into metal and wood, so he understands. I also play with fibre - spinning, dyeing, weaving, knitting and sewing fabrics.

Initially to find out what to do with bags of raw materials. Have stayed as lots of interesting/useful information, sometimes I understand it, sometimes I don't And .... What @High Bridge Pottery said. Continous threads. Also, easy to search, repository for sharing photos. Helpful, friendly people. Admins that respond.

As above, plus, if you fire the ^6 glazes to ^06/04, the glaze will not mature. It will likely be matt, rough, chalky. To be brutal - it will be ugly.

No. My own work is mine, it is what it is. It's made to the best of my ability, for me. I'v made, and use mugs and bowls, spoon rests, trinket trays, plant pots, plant saucers. None of which are as perfect as I would expect bought items to be. The only faults I will not tolerate in my own work are glazes that are ugly or rough, and items that leak that should hold water. Although I do have a couple of vases that have a "liner" of some sort placed in them to hold water. The attached is not one of my faulty vases, but shows how useful liners can be.

I'm with @Min on this . I read the question and 25mm popped into my head, then read the answers above. But, looking at some commercial moulds, the larger the piece, the thicker the walls are. Page 33 of "The Clay Lover's Guide to Making Molds" says: "For most small and medium sized molds............. tocover the model by 1" (25mm)." Without re-reading the whole book, I can't find any reference to thickness for large moulds, but, relatively speaking plaster is cheap, so I'd say maximum of 50mm.

There are a couple of Facebook groups that are all about Amaco Potter's Choice. You might find the answers there. https://www.facebook.com/groups/potterschoiceex/?locale=en_GB https://www.facebook.com/groups/1196799951019423/posts/1398359354196814/?paipv=0&eav=AfYmtsC5RDwv16Y9pNgwJ88wvmZH7oa9E8J-q3IfRhBSV0tKYkLZafWNK7u0TEseK9w&_rdr

As a knitter, I don't like yarn bowls. The glaze needs to be 100% perfect, no pin holes, bare patches, absolutely smooth, inside and in/around the slot. Why cone 5/6? They're easier to make and keep to shape at ^06.