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About Chilly

  • Birthday March 24

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  • Location
    : Langdon Hills, Essex, UK
  • Interests
    Pottery, gardening, cycling, scouting, outdoors, spinning, weaving, knitting, sewing.

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  1. As a knitter, I don't like yarn bowls. The glaze needs to be 100% perfect, no pin holes, bare patches, absolutely smooth, inside and in/around the slot. Why cone 5/6? They're easier to make and keep to shape at ^06.
  2. You can try anything you like, but .... Clay and glaze need to expand and contract together else the glaze might craze or shiver plus.... high fire glaze on low fire clay, fired to low temp = glaze probably won't mature - meaning dull rough finish high fire glaze on low fire clay, fired to high temp = big messy puddle on kiln shelf as clay melts and collapses low fire glaze on high fire clay, fired to low temp = clay not mature, shivering, crazing, leaking low fire glaze on high fire clay, fired to high temp = big messy puddle on kiln shelf as glaze runs off pot,.
  3. No, the thought of all that dust and having to crush it, makes it a commercial / industrial process. I just know that it is possible.
  4. Plaster has been used for over 1,000 years, can't imagine using anything else. Moulds need to be solid, yet almost permeable, easy to make and use, and re-cycleable. Not that many modern users re-cycle, but the ancients must have, else we'd find more. Plaster can be heated to 180c, crushed and reused over and over.
  5. For future searching, please note this should read Giffin Grip. No "r", "i" not "e".
  6. I have similar, but have also used tupperware boxes, cardboard boxes lined with large plastic bin bags, and fruit boxes, also lined. Anything that is larger "enough".
  7. @tman123 don't forget to report back, we always want to know how things turn out. It helps us to learn.
  8. Usually, best "performance" of finished pots is when they are fired to maturity.
  9. You will probably need a "release agent." For plastic press moulds I use either talcum powder or WD40. Both will prevent the clay from sticking to the mould. You might need to remove the clay before it's leather hard, as by then it will start to shrink and can get caught. I made a whole batch in one two hour class, dusting mould with talc, pressing the clay in, dropping it out, dusting mould with talc................. repeat
  10. Agree with @Jeff Longtin. Clay masters should either be wet or bisque. Only issue with bisqueing is the shrinkage, so if that will be a problem, you can add a skim coat of clay after bisque, to make up for lost volume.
  11. Between myself and my partner who is a mechanical engineer, we do OK. I did pay to have a proper power cable socket installed, but everything else we do. For my kiln. A different story for the kiln at the community centre. All I do is batt wash/scrape/vacuum. They pay for an annual "service/electrical check".
  12. If you are mixing your plaster by hand..... Line a bucket with a plastic bag and mix the plaster in that. When you have poured the plaster out you can just throw the bag and any leftover bits of plaster. And not have to mess about cleaning off the dried out plaster. This was an absolute game-changer for me.
  13. The answer is "it depends". On what you might ask? The weather. This time of year, things dry slowly - often too slowly, so they get covered with dry cloth to help absorb some moisture. When it's hot or even just sunny, the greenhouse can warm up quickly, even in winter. Either way, they come indoors and sit on a shelf over the bath - bathroom is not used and is north-facing. It's a balancing/juggling act. Don't let things dry too quickly, or so slowly I can't refine them, and miss the next kiln firing at the community centre.
  14. Cambridge, UK? Have you tried Anglian Potters? They have a website and a Facebook chat page. https://www.anglianpotters.org.uk/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/anglianpotters
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