docweathers

I do hear you loud and clear. On the bottom of each pot, written in large letters is "not food safe". My family is only my wife and I. We both our PhD's so I think were smart enough to not use these for food. Maybe I should take Babs advice " bury your bowls when they bury your boots!"

I have no plans of ever considering them food safe. They are only decorations never intended for anything else. As a side note. I have decided to go back to firing both glaze and glass at ^6. Comparing ones that I've done at 1850 Fahrenheit and the ones that I've done at ^6 there is only a slight difference in flow and no difference in color. Firing them all at once is a lot simpler.

I do appreciate everyone's advice and I will head it

On the bottom they will all be marked "not food safe".

Very interesting comments.......... but the pictured pot was. 1. Fired to1850F 2. The colors of the stained glass did not change from pre-firing to post firing. 3. There are no cracks whatsoever in the glass. It has been about a month since firing so I would think any spontaneous shivering would have happened. One other similar bowl fired at the same time with a little different glass colors has some extremely small cracks. I will be tracking down the kind of glass that caused the tiny cracks and not use it again. 4. I am just a beginning hobbyist potter. I don't sell my stuff, so they will never be used as serving bowls. This is the first time I've tried this kind of stained-glass pottery application. I will be working to refine it further. Do you think the voodoo dance that I did around the kiln is responsible for my relative success.

There is strictly decorative

Works for me. The pictured bowl is one of many I have done. There are some very small fine cracks.

I have been experimenting with melting glass in the bottom of glaze fired bowls. Example attached. I had to do a lot of experimentation to come up with the firing schedule that melted like I wanted it to. I modified a very complex glass fusing schedule. My guess is that glass fusing is a much more delicate process than just putting some glaze in the bottom of a glaze fired bowl and re-cooking it to 1850°F. I would like to come up with a much simpler shorter firing schedule. Has anyone tried this and what firing schedule did you find worked?

Okay, I will give it a try. Thanks

Thanks I found that too. I did not know what that meant for low end. I want to use it at around 1400 with some glass.

What is the lowest firing temperature for Bisque Fix. I tried calling Amaco. I got an answering machine to leave a message. After two weeks there has been no return call. I think they're closed.

I have mine on order from Amazon. I will put this thing together this weekend. thanks for the idea and all the information

I like your idea. However, I am unclear what this thin cloth matt is. Can you describe it in more detail and possibly send a picture?

I assume this technique generates a lot of dust. How do you deal with the dust?

I'm not that big of a klutz. It is only a tiny amount here and there

You pros know about this stuff. Us beginners fumble on to it.

I have always used a wet sponge to clean off bits of glaze on bisqueware that were unwanted. This is often tricky to get exactly what I wanted off and not get smears of the removed glaze. I just found a much easier and faster way to do it. Those rectangular green scouring pads provide more precise control and do not leave any smears. The removed glaze is just powder that can be easily blown off.

This is not a recipe that I came up with. I have doctored it a little trying to reduce the shrinkage that can cause dashed lines versus a smooth continuous line. What I like about it is that you can put texture in the lines you draw and its stays.... it is quite stiff. I will have to dig out a picture of something that I've tried it on.

Here is the recipe for the majolica that I added about 5% Elmers glue to. Recipe: Percent Batch FF 3134 3.80 242 Nepheline Sye. 30.09 1504 EPK 4.20 210 calcinated Dolomite 2.07 103 Whiting 8.49 424 Flint 41.09 2054 I Substitute here Zircopax 9.21 460 Totals: 100.00 % 5000 Gm Also add: alumina Hydrate 20.0 Bentonite 3.00 150 Epsom salts 0.50 25 none ------ I read the Alfred link that you posted. Very interesting. I will have to think about how to use it.

if you don't call majolica glaze,, what's the proper term for the stuff you squirt through cake icing tools to make decorative lines. Thanks for the link to the very interesting article on slime. Can this slime/majolica still be used as majolica decoration. What will happen when I fire it?

my majolica clay was not sticking well to bisque so I added some Elmers glue. Then things got weird. As soon as I mixed it in the majolica became very lumpy grainy and dry. What's going on .Have destroyed my majolica clay or can I thin it out and go ahead and use it with the Elmers. I must say it does take a lot better to the bisque after adding the Elmers.

Thanks all for a lot of good ideas to experiment with

Thanks

I use latex too... from Laguna Clay. As just a hobbyist potter, once I get something working, I lose interest in it and start experimenting with something else. Dumb I know, but that is what entertains me.

Thanks Tom, those are some really good ideas. I will give them a try. I am surprised no one else made suggestions.