docweathers

You can you Google translate to translate the article. It did a very good job for me.

Since I posted this years ago, I have made good use of the silicon carbide glaze recipes in John Britts ^6 book. They were quite well. I may experiment with this under glaze approach. Thanks for the update

I asked Skutt how I might implement a Fallonator configuration with my 1227. This is what they said: "Hello Lawrence,We do not recommend introducing fuel into the chamber of an electric kiln. It can be quite dangerous to do so. In the case of the Fallonator it looks like you are depending on CO2 to displace any fresh oxygen in the kiln to prevent combustion, but if that CO2 fails to do its job you are turning the kiln into a big explosive container. The heating elements get well beyond the temperature needed to ignite the propane. I would recommend looking into Steven Hill's electric firing process. He is able to emulate the look of an atmospheric firing through spraying his glazes and firing very slow without bisquing the pots (once firing). This would be a much safer way to get the look of a gas fired piece. Here are some links to his articles:https://static1.squarespace.com/static/555a4afbe4b06f6e6f42474f/t/55712bc7e4b0334e5889b742/1433480135766/An+Approach+to+Single+Firing.pdfhttp://www.stevenhillpottery.com/articles/Generally speaking, introducing gas into an electric kiln chamber will deteriorate the elements and the brick, but it also has a chance of combusting. I would not recommend putting any sort of gas in your kiln. You may also be interested in asking around your community for access to a gas, salt, soda, or wood kiln. Wood kilns are a lot of fun!!"

How about a simple diagram of the kiln you manufactured.

I would Love to hear how a electric reduction kiln works. I had never even considered the possibility.