Linchimb

Thanks for the suggestion, switching to plywood now…I was told that MDF absorbs moisture and let base dry quicker, maybe not meant to be wrapped.

My throwing bat is MDF so just left the pot on there and thought this way it wouldn’t be distorted and I can lift it when it’s firmer. But yeah agree it would be better to just wrap in plastic.

Hi, I recently noticed that when I wrap pots in plastics on MDF board, it often becomes mouldy around the base of the pots when there is moisture. Not sure if anyone has similar issues and is it better to use wooden boards? Many thanks!

Hi Jeff, thanks for your suggestion. I think this might well be the case. I use a two part mould for the plate where the main part is solid cast with an open back to pour the slip out. It often creates void and it’s not easy to have a complete fill. Maybe I need to redesign the mould…

yes that's my normal firing schedule. There were other pieces made from the same casting slip (from scarva) and they were fine. That's why I was wondering whether the position in the kiln also contributed to the overheating of this particular plate. Maybe I can drop the soak next time.

I didn’t put cone in…it was ramping at 100 degrees per hour until 1250 with a 30min soak.

Ah it is probably bloating. I haven’t broken it because of the painting on the plate and I was wondering whether I can keep it as decorative piece…? The bloating is quite symmetrical so I guess there must be void in between.

Hi, the clay can be fired up to 1260 and I fired to 1250. But it was quite close to the kiln elements.

Hi, has anyone experienced rippled / distorted stoneware plate after glaze firing? The plate was thinly cast using stoneware casting slip. Bisque looked fine. I placed it quite close to the kiln wall which might have caused some stress…the plate didn’t break and I’m wondering whether it will eventually break at some point or is this type of rippling kind of permanently settled. The distortion on the upper and bottom side is somehow symmetric. thanks very much.

I see! Thanks for the advice. The crack doesn't feel very sharp

Hi, the rim is reasonably round on this one. I have seen glaze running downward and not covering rim well on some pieces with thin sharp rim. Saying that thin rim on porcelain sometimes works quite well with glaze, maybe because it’s more dense, smooth and can be vitrified (?) the kiln was actually opened at room temperature. I let it cool down naturally after reaching mature temperature and didn’t slow down cooling.

Thanks! I just did the freezer to boiled water test and it seems fine. Also did the hot to ice test. And knocked the rim with steak mallet. Nothing happened. One thing I forgot to include in my original post is that yesterday it also cracked on the inside of the cup underneath the chip on the rim.

Thanks Peter. I just tried this ice-boiling water test and it seems fine. I might put it in the freezer and see what happens.

Hi Bill, thanks for your reply. Actually in John Britt’s book this is a cone 10 glaze and I was thinking whether I under fired….it is very glossy. Maybe I can try a different firing schedule and temperature. I thought crawling is the opposite of shivering and I was puzzled to see both happening at the same time. maybe the crawling was due to glaze application since temmoku type of glaze needs to be applied fairly thickly and in some areas it’s probably too thick.

Thanks everyone for your kind advice and suggestion. I tool the blue cover off and noticed that the square metal plate, the spring and belt were all loose. I put them back in place and hopefully the wheel will be working again!