Mudfish

Thanks, Min. This glaze only shivered over the rims that had the slip application. So, my next question, are some slips more compatible with various glazes than others ? Also, is it better to formulate slip/colored slips using my clay body slurry? This seems like a solution to me

Custer 48.3 Epk 25 (used calcined for a third of this) 3.8 parts whiting Original formula called for 22 parts dolomite, which I subbed the talc/bone ash, because I am out of dolomite. Also, I added 3 percent manganese carb, and 3 percent titanium. It shivered on the rim of a few mugs, and I'm assuming it was from a light application of white slip that I applied at the greenware stage

Yes, it must have been the talc, and yes, I got a 5 gallon bucket full. Is there anything I could add that might help?

No, the glaze that shivered is not a matte. I subbed the 22 parts dolomite in the formula with 10 parts bone ash, and 12 parts talc. The rest of the formula called for 48.3 parts custer, 25 parts EPK, (which I used about half calcined Epk for that), and 3.8 parts whiting. I'm just guessing that it was the materials I subbed for the dolomite that made it shiver, and it was also much more glossy than I expected

out of dolomite at the moment and looking for a good matte/satin matte white-ish base glaze. Does anyone have any insight into this cone 10 glaze "Horsely's Satin Matte White? * Custer 49.19 * Whiting 29.95 *Om4 21.62 * EPK 3.24, Zirco 12%, Titanium 4.8%, zinc 4.8% How does this formulation react over colored slips, especially? I sometimes have trouble with shivering. Shivering happening on rims and over slip/colored slip applications. I use stoneware. Standard #153, cone 10, and sometimes I use Standard stoneware white #181. Thanks, everyone

I have plenty of room, the mixer is on casters so it can be rolled out the warehouse door and it can be done outside. I'm gonna leave the tool business for someone else to handle. Think I'll just supervise

I have an Estrin Clay Mixer and would like some advice on how to remove rust from the blades and the bin area. I have used it and the motor works great, but the rust chips off in the clay and makes throwing not so smooth, plus these rust chips melt right through the glaze and leave ugly splotches.

continued success with these large platters. Thanks again to all

Any advise out there about good pop up tents and suggestions for how to weight them securely? I have been using a Show Off and pro panels, but it is just so labor intensive to set up by myself - I feel like I've been through boot camp by the end of a weekend show. I've heard that some pop ups will not work with pro panels, and of course, the nightmare stories of pop ups becoming large kites during high winds. Thanks

Thank you, Roberta

Just unloaded the kiln today and to my great relief these platters have NO cracks ! I'm so happy to be batting a thousand this go-around. I hope these results continue. What I did was to lift the bottom edge while throwing these forms to round out that area, omitted the grog, paid more attention to closing up damper for the cool down, and I fired on a fairly thick bed of silica. Thank you all so much

Thanks, Bill I will pay more attentiion to trimming and making the bottom smooth. I will abandon the grog idea. If cracks are happening during the bisque, they are too fine to notice, and they expand in the glaze fire. Cracks have happened during the bisque firing, but it is hairline cracks that are visible, so I don't continue on with glazing. Maybe all of these cracks are happening during the bisque firing and they just are not visible until the cone 9-10 temps

I will try this idea also. A couple of years ago, I did try a version of your idea, here. I don't remember flipping the slab over to rib both sides, though. Anyway, the form ended up cracking all around the join as it was drying. I abandoned the idea but maybe I should have kept trying.

Also, I have considered that it is an issue of the inside bottom is glazed, while the outside bottom is not. In that case, I will need to throw the base thicker, so that I can trim on the bottom to have enough space for glaze on the bottom also

Thanks, Babs. Yes, I do support these forms when I flip them over to dry. I use sponges, soft cloths..,etc. to support the center so they won't sag. I turn the forms often, and keep them loosely covered so that they dry evenly. I think I will omit using grog as I don't think it is helping. I will look for the book you suggest - I'm sure its on Amazon. I have made several more of these forms, but with a more rounded bottom edge, as Pres suggested. I'm hoping that is a solution to the problem. I will probably be bisque firing them with my next kilnload in about a week and I will let you all know if they survive the bisque fire