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Mudfish

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  1. Also, I use Brooklyn Red clay, which I think attributed to the rich dark color with this firing
  2. OldLady, I'm kinda new to Instagram, but I have several examples of my work there and of course, on my Facebook page. Please look me up .https://www.facebook.com/patricia.zachery.3 and patriciazachery on Instagram. Please ignore any of the political rants and memes! I try to keep them to a minimum!
  3. *To NOT make it look like I painted laytex paint on my pieces!
  4. Thank you so much, OldLady! The base glaze was a clear glossy that I actually hated because the original formula stated it was a buttery, matte white. I'm not a gloss fan at all unless it is a metallic type gloss. Anyway, I added 10% EPK hoping it would cut down the gloss. The top of each piece I sprayed WooDoBlue. I usually dip a base glaze then spray an accent glaze over that. Until I get a gas kiln, that is what I do to make it look like I painted laytex paint on my pieces, which I have found that electric firings can look like.
  5. Neil, I'm not actually what type of Thermocouple it was. The metals artist from the studio behind me installed it for me to get me by until the manufacturer's one arrived. It looked like an antique workhorse, though
  6. Neil, There was no error in the program, not that I can tell. I really think it was from the thermocouple that was installed. It was not for that kiln but I think the problem was because the inferior thermocouple would only read to 2150 degrees F. I had used it for several cone 06 and cone 6 firings, but not with a customized program, just the quick start, generic program and it worked fine. It reached temp for both types of firings, even though it quit reading the temp at a certain temperature, the kilns temp would still climb as I would turn it to "off" and it would give a true temperature reading. So with the inferior thermocouple, it would reach whatever cone I set it to, but not so with a programmed segment, obviously as it just stayed at the temp that the thermocouple could read. It never went to the slow cool segment, it never reached soak temp, so it kept trying I guess. All that to say I now have the manufacturer's thermocouple in hand and it will be installed before I do any more firings. My kiln is a Paragon DTC 800.
  7. Ha! I'm very lucky. And I was thinking about your adventure with your gas kiln. I used to have one of those portable gas kilns that would NEVER reach cone 9-10. Later I learned that I should have installed (I forget what it is called), something like a psi regulator and it would have fixed the problem. So all the heat would just go right out the top of my updraft kiln. I would wrangle with it for ever trying to squeeze out another 150 degrees...to no avail. I did discover, though, that when temperature would not build anymore, if I turned down the flame a bit, the temp would actually climb. So the gas pressure was so high at about say cone 3 or 4, I guess all my heat was just shooting right out the top. I'm not good at troubleshooting, obviously, but I wish I knew then that this regulator from Ward Burners would have fixed the problem because I would probably still have that kiln. So yeah, heat in those cookers can actually climb when the flame is turned down. Thanks for sharing your misshap, I sure felt I was among understanding folks last night. This forum can really be potter's therapy sometimes!
  8. sure will. I can't survive another Malox Moment like that again!
  9. https://www.facebook.com/patricia.zachery.3/videos/10216257207216228/?t=11 Here are the results of a 10+ hour soak. Yikes.
  10. well ok, I'm prepared for anything here. I've got a whiskey, box of tissues, a bed that I might actually get some sleep in tonight... I will never take a firing for granted again.
  11. Thanks, Mark. Will do. I imagine I will be cracking that lid open at around 500 degrees at least for a hot minute just to relieve my anxiety, or to verify the worst. I'm guessing around 4am Memphis time. I will post the results and details.
  12. exactly. This kiln has shut off automatically before due to heating too slowly, so I had to replace the thermocouple. I think either the elements are wack or the thermocouple isn't in sync with the orton digital controller... idk.. and it just kept trying to reach temperature - for about 10 hours. I miss my old gas kiln where I had to babysit it the whole firing time. Oh, but the convenience of a digital kiln.. I'm a mess right now!
  13. aww, geez!! The exact same thing has happened to me. I came home from work looking forward to a cooled off kiln and ready to open the lid and Whoa!! I see red heat ! The kiln was programmed for a customized slow cool... I have no idea what happened or how but right now it looks like the kiln stayed at just below the soak temp for about 10 hours. I'm on pins and needles. I'm sure I will be up with the jitters all night long with anxiety. It is just meant for potters to suffer, right?
  14. Help! Im in the moment of a bonehead mistake right now as Im in the end of a cone 6 glaze firing.. and I have now realized that I have omitted talc from my berry rust glaze that I made especially for this firing. I'm really worried how my pots will turn out. Can anyone out there offer me any hope?? Its 4am in Memphis and I have been up all night continuing to fire to cone knowing I have many pots with faulty glaze.
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