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Pres

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About Pres

  • Rank
    Retired Art Teacher
  • Birthday 08/20/1949

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    bisquefire06@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central, PA
  • Interests
    Camping, kayaking, family, travel, Art in general. I have a small studio in my garage. Two electric kilns, two wheels, wedging table etc. I am primarily interested in cone 6 Ox. but like to see what is going on at all ranges. Read about ceramics voraciously and love the feel of the clay and throwing. Have to admit that my greatest joy is in the making, not the glazing. That said I do mix my own glazes, some of my own formulas, some borrowed. Retired from teaching art, in 2009 after 36 years, taught ceramics 34 of those years.

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  1. I believe you may be right, but then again testing should identify that. I still think that the logo/lettering is stained before glazing. the banding at top and bottom may be before or after. Testing should help you decide on when to do it. best, Pres
  2. So the glaze is a white or off white glaze. Oxide or Carbonate will work, However, I would definitely do some test tiles. The carbonate is weaker in color, but could be used if that is what you have. best, Pres
  3. I do not believe it is salt fired. Seems like an underglaze or wash of cobalt washed off of high areas with a clear glaze over top,IMHO. best, Pres
  4. Inglaze has been around for a long time. Try spraying/blow atomizer or pump through lace, or leaves and natural materials for great shadow vs clean decoration effects. best, Pres
  5. Is there any way to check for an error code, or bring up your previous firing program/history. What brand of kiln is it? best, Pres
  6. Oh you evil doer's. . . . just as I bought a new electric kiln, You had to bring back the old haunts and wishes of having a gas kiln in my garage. Oh how bad you are, not even thinking of the 1K for the gas line to the garage, or the variances I would need on zoning even though I live in a dual zone Commercial/Residential zoned area. I don't think downtown Tyrone would want a gas kiln on main street even if it is closer to the paper mill! That said, the ghosts have vanished, and reality of being over 70 comes to the forefront as I really don't need to get into this at this date. I will ad
  7. This weeks QotW comes from another Moderator, and not surprisingly a thread of discussion covering the use of electric vs combustible firings. The discussion started as a search for materials, and went sideways lamenting the lack of cone 6 potters in some areas and cone 10 potters in others. It also made assertions about the difficulty or ease of one or the other disciplines involving ceramics as if they were from two different planets in different solar systems. Hmmmm! See more on the thread here: @Min's Question for the QotW:Electric or gas reduction firing at any cone you choo
  8. I am running a slow glaze right now, Found that the kiln is larger than the old one as it will hold 3 patens to a shelf layer without bridging gaps. I was able to put all of the pieces from the glaze load in the old kiln in, and add a paten that did not get into the old load. I had lots of space yet that I could fill with small pieces, and if I had a few more shelves I could have gotten more in. I will be getting at least two more 1/2 shelves maybe 4 and a few more pieces of furniture to augment my present supply. Firing is great, but I can't stop myself from checking on it often, though not
  9. I sent the following email to L & L. I hope they get the message and reply. I have long been a fan of the L & L line of kilns, having used a J236 I purchased years ago with no controller or setter from you brand new. I served me for years with firing that were quite flawless, and I did all of the repairs/replacements and maintenance on my own. The firings were tiring towards the end, as watching a manually fired kiln through the night was tedious, but I fired the kiln up and down by watching heat color and cone packs. Alas, during the pandemic the kiln quit during a firing. Carefu
  10. Welcome to the forum @Darthpoodle, nice to see someone from Lithuania and a UNESCO city at that. Lots of history there. There is an alternative technique similar to @neilestrick's example. You may look up mishima, a Japanese technique that involves incising line into leather hard clay, then covering the area with a contrasting slip, and then scraping off the high areas exposing the lines now filled in with the contrasting slip. Other ways of doing this may involve the incised decoration, then firing the piece in bisque, adding an oxide wash over the areas of the incising and washing off t
  11. I have done many pieces with pedestal bases over the years also. From my perspective (IMHO) it looks like the flare of you base is to extreme for the thinness of the base. I am always wary of base that flare to the extreme. The amount of stress would not show up in bisque fire, but a glaze fire is a different story. Years ago I demonstrated to some students how soft the clay was when I put a steel rod into a peep hole to push the side of a pot in. After the firing had cooled the students were awed at the indent of 3 inches in the side of the pot. best, Pres
  12. @Smokey2 Those are exactly the same pages I refer to in my post. I find it counter intuitive that the one page states follow the Genesis controller pages, while another page unde Dynatrol says to do the ^5 firing as a slow bisque. . . . but they were talking about the Dynatrol. @neilestrickI think I will get in touch with L&L about the confusion of the manual set up. I have been waiting on electric set up for a little while, and have not wasted my time, but been reading the manual once and some places 2 and 3 times. Maintenance, repair, and operation areas I have covered well. I think
  13. I thin a large part of the confusion comes from the section in the ring binder marked OPERATION. First page shows the Genesis panel and dialogue boxes. Page 2 begins with DYNAIMIC ZONE CONTROL, then FIRST TEST FIRING OF THE KILN. Text here is " See pages 5 and 6 of the Genesis Model LT3140 Controller Operation Manual for simple and detailed instructions on the process. This section is in the binder under CONTROL. If there is to be an edit change, it should be made in the Genesis Controller Operation Manual so that the slow bisque or glaze is chosen. I have inspected the kiln thougougly
  14. ECpot, no problem. New kilns can be frustrating, as they are part learning curve. Hopefully we will both get some answers. For those of you looking at my question about adjustments, I would think this cone is pretty spot on, maybe a little hot. I had two included with the kiln, so one was at the bottom of the top sections, and one on the floor shelves. They both look almost exactly alike.
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