OlgaBiff

Thank you! That is what I wanted to ask but perhaps difficult to express in a foreign language. It's white stoneware with 40% of grog. It is pretty stable I think, I have no concerns for it to slump/fall. Only to crack or explode for the steam trapped inside. But for what I understand if your firing schedule is slow enough you could fire a closed sphere? Maybe this kind of support could be helpful too?

Thank you all! It is bone dry and it is hollow inside. I build it using coils and the walls are not particularly thick. I am only used to fire vases for now. Since the holes for the steam to escape are at the bottom in this case should it lay on one side? Or perhaps making holes at the bottom is not even necessary...?

Hello. I just made a large sculpture and plan to make more in the future. I need some advice on how to place it in the kiln. I have made some holes underneath so the steam can exit the piece... This may be a very naive question, but I do I place it inside the kiln? Should it lay on one side? What's the best way to fire it so the steam escape properly and the piece don't explode? Thanks so much for your help. Hope this topic may be helpful to others too.

Hi all, I am quite new to ceramics. I want to instal an electric Nabertherm in a community of artist. They have a policy to shut off electricity at night when the last person leave the building for security reasons. I think I might be able to complete my cone 8 schedule at peak temperature and I am not planning to enter a 4th segment to control the cooling. Is it ok to cut electricity during cooling? Many thanks

Hi! Fire empty at 500C and maintain the temperature for six hours. From the operation manual of my brand new Nabertherm.

Hi all, I just received my first kiln and seeking some advice. It's a Top loader Nabertherm 80L. Should the air inlet at the bottom remain open or closed during a high temperature stoneware firing? I am afraid that if I close it I might unintentionally create a reduction on an electric kiln. I understand it might be useful at an initial stage of bisqueware firing. How do you use it? Thank you so much for any advice.

Hello, Yes Naberthern 80L is a bit more affordable then a Rodhe 80L that's why I switched to that. I wanted a small kiln (50-60L) as I will be using it by myself and to save on electricity too. But I am not so sure if a small kiln will perform well for high temperature glazes. Nabertherm: Top 60 1320 Ø 410 460 60 600 890 850 3.6 1-phase 72 Top 60/R 1320 Ø 410 460 60 600 890

Hello all, I will be buying my first kiln ever in a few months and I was wondering if I could get some advice. I want to fire at cone 6. My choice is between a Rodhe Ecotop 60LS (III) Kw5,0 and a Nabertherm Top 80 (III) Kw 5,5, they fit my price range. I am writing because I have read somewhere that a Rodhe Ecotop 60LS don't perform well for firing regularly high temperature glazes. I find the controller of the Nabertherm series a bit confusing, the Rodhe TC304 is much simpler to me. What would you advice for a first time kiln? I am in Europe, Spain. Any advice welcome. Thank you.

Hello, I usually bisque my clay at 980C. I am thinking of changing to a heavy grog clay for bigger sculptural pieces. So, the higher the grog content in the clay the hotter the bisque temperature? Than you!

Thank you both. I was thinking to apply a manganese wash over a commercial black matte glaze to try to get some more visual interesting surface. But I wonder how to apply the wash on top of the unfired glazed pot... Maybe spray?

Hi! How do I apply washes to enhance the look of a glaze? Could you recommend any good online tutorial or have any tips to share? For what I have read this world be a possible process: ·Bisque fire the piece ·Apply the oxide wash with a brush or sponge and wipe off excess ·Let dry one day (or longer if needed) ·Glaze as usual Could also be done on top of the glaze? Would not the glaze be "washed away"? Thank you so much!