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About Pyewackette

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  1. Thanks to everyone who participated. I'm learning all sorts of new stuff LOL! Such as why mineral spirits (as a cleaning agent) is better than turpentine, say, so as not to esplode. At least I have some idea of what questions to ask the actual equipment people. I now feel confident to spray paint my house, maybe even the exterior (we'll see) PLUS to finally get a glaze sprayer setup. I guess I'm not too disappointed to realize the two tasks require different equipment, as long as I can get both tasks done, I'm happy. Thanks again.
  2. Which (the fisheye thing) explains what happened to the finish of my current car, LOL!
  3. OK so let's see if I've got it. The airless sprayer is like a mechanical version of a roller. The HPLV type sprayer is like a mechanical version of a brush. If I want to do glazing the airless sprayer will not work well in that application, and likewise the HPLV sprayer will not work well for painting a large expanse of a wall. So I can't really make one type of sprayer do double duty. So looks like I'll go ahead and get the airless sprayer for painting and leave the glaze setup until AFTER I move. Why did I worry about oil in the airstream? Because I was TOLD to, a couple of decades ago, and never had the time to really seriously look into it to find out if that was realistic or not. As for letting someone else do the painting - the issue is not so much the money (though that is something I NEVER forget about) as it is time. I'm not getting anyone out here to do that before some time in October. I'm not sitting around waiting that long when I've somewhere else to be. Trying to do this by hand has been hard on me, plus I have birds that I have to go through conniptions to protect from fumes, and the fumes from Kilz Original are nothing to sneeze at. The longer it takes me to finish the work, the more effort and time I have to put into protecting them, and the less of both I have to get anything ELSE done. I am using the Kilz because I'm mitigating the effects of over a decade of a trio of hard core chain smokers in the house. There is very little odor at this point as I've scrubbed virtually every surface down with TSP, then bleach water, then a double rinse, and have primed and painted a large portion of the house except for the bathroom and kitchen, which are both VERY small areas, and the LR, which is huge at over 30x15. I just want to get it over with. IF finishing up the interior with a spray approach goes well, I MIGHT consider doing the exterior as well, but trust me, I've got PLENTY of other stuff I need to finish off before I can get out of here. I'd have to be getting a pretty expensive compressor or airless system to come close to the cost of paying someone else to do this. We had an estimate that was in excess of $3k just for the interior and no doors or trim. But like I said, it isn't the issue of money so much as it is the time. I want to be elsewhere than here. JohnnyK, can I manage to paint face framed cabinets and the doors (after I've stripped 60 years of paint of and sanded) with the airless, or would it be better to do that with an HPLV setup (which I will need eventually for glazing anyway)? As for why I want to spray glaze, well, just because. I don't really need to justify that. It's just something I want to do. Up to now, glazing has always just been a step I have to take to get to the next pot. Perhaps I can make it something more than that.
  4. I'm in the market for a sprayer for glaze AND paint. I've been struggling to paint the interior of my house (I'm old and decrepit and everything takes me FOR EVER) and was not considering a sprayer because why buy a compressor JUST TO PAINT ONE HOUSE. Except ... and I have no idea why it took so long for this to occur to me ... perhaps the aforementioned decrepitude ... I DO have another use for a compressor, eg - GLAZING. So I'm comfortable with the Harbor Freight spray gun (which btw is currently on sale with a coupon for $10) But not so comfortable picking out a compressor. Last I tried to learn up on compressors and glazing, I was told NEVER to get an oil lubed compressor because it will spit oil into the glaze and Ruin Things For You. Except the compressor I see mentioned on here from HF is an oil cooled compressor. (It is on sale for $115 with coupon btw but I'm not interested in that exact compressor since it gets generally poor ratings when used to spray paint). So I've flummoxed myself and have no idea what I should be looking for in a compressor for these purposes. So again with the coupons, I have 2 potential candidates for a compressor This one on sale with coupon for $125, it is oil free - 8 gallon 1.5 HP 150 PSI or This one on sale with coupon for $170, it is oil lubed and (obviously) way bigger than the other one @ 20 gallon 1.6 HP 135 PSI. I know NOTHING about either of these. I have evaluated them solely on their high ratings and high reported customer satisfaction on the HF website, and the fact that both exceed the capabilities of the 2 HP compressor I've seen others mention here. My guess is that the higher capacity is probably inconsequential for glazing, but not necessarily painting. I don't know the consequences of the difference in HP, or anything else. SCFM vs CFM? Why is one PSI better than another? At least I know what PSI stands for. I don't see an extra $45 as a problem but I do want to know the pros and cons of each of the first two mentioned (@125 and @170), or any reason why one or the other would be a bad idea for glazing. Or painting either, if anyone happens to know about that as well. With an oil lubed compressor, IS oil getting in the air lines a problem? I would think that would be a problem for painting normal paint stuff too - so is there a way to stop that? To make it worse, they also have an airless spray paint kit on sale with coupon for $170. It appears it'll work well for painting but no idea what it would do with glaze. It does take normal tips though. Also I don't quite get why its called airless - what's it using to shoot the paint out, magic? LOL! I have a 30x15 room to be painted with Kilz Original, the last room in the house I've not managed to completely remediate from the decade long tenancy of 3 chain smokers. Its been thoroughly scrubbed but painting with an oil based primer is not as easy as it was for me in the long ago days. IF I go for this, I also have a garage door that is a hideous shade of brown I would like to repaint and even, possibly, the whole exterior. But whatever of that does (or does NOT) get done, ultimately I want to end up with something that will still work in my pottery. Any help would be much appreciated.
  5. My plumber objects to that and I think the reason is that it is a 2" drain and should only have one thing at a time draining through there. I think that is what he said - I will have to check. So obviously when the washing machine is draining you are not going to be trying to use the sink (when its a single bowl). But I'll check with him. I didn't think this would be such a big deal. I've been trying for almost 10 years now to get things set up to where I can work. Much longer and I'll be UNDER the clay instead of working with it, LOL!
  6. Well here's the problem - I live in the desert. Leaving things hanging out makes them dirtier with all the sand blowing around all the time. And there is no rain to speak of. So that won't help me here. But its certainly a good idea anywhere you get rain, LOL! The other issue is that I need to bring the washing machine in from the garage as it freezes out there all winter meaning I have to run a heater constantly to keep the water in the pump from freezing. Also I tend to put off going out there to actually do laundry because its freakin' COLD. I find as I age I am much less willing/able to put up with things like that, and more likely to procrastinate over it. This is also why I need a utility sink and clay trap - I already know I won't (can't) be schlepping 5 gallon buckets around. If I don't make it as easy for myself as possible, I just won't work. So lets say I NEVER wash anything clay-ey in the washing machine; and it is draining in to the utility sink; and I have the clay trap installed. Keeping in mind I am one person and don't have that much laundry and when I do they are small loads. I can get long hoses for the dishwasher and drain it into the kitchen sink across the room from the utility sink. But I have to drain the washing machine into the utility sink. Is THAT doable, to have the washing machine draining into the utility sink and through the clay trap? I am unwilling to take stuff I know will clog up the drains (and apparently parts of the washer itself) to a laundromat. I don't think that is fair to them. But I can swish them around in a giant bucket before washing in the utility sink by hand (with the help of a laundry plunger). But that's a different issue; mostly I just want to have my utility sink and the washing machine inside, and the only place to put them is next to each other over where the laundry fixtures were when they built the house. I THINK it has been said that this would wash clay out of the clay trap and into the drain I am trying to protect? The fear expressed was the high velocity of water coming out of the machine? But since it goes into the sink tub and is not being forced at high velocity through the drain itself, is that really an issue? I just want to get my hands in clay again. I thought I was FINALLY in a position to have a home studio. *sigh*
  7. Well sadly not being able to drain the washing machine through the clay trap means I can only have one or the other. I am not physically capable of schlepping 5 gallon buckets of water around for clay waste, I need to be able to rinse at the sink. Garbage cans would be even worse and in order to "pre-rinse" at least some clay tools I would need something a lot bigger than a 5 gallon paint bucket. I could manage a wringer bucket on wheels (without the wringer) for some pre-rinse, but still need the utility sink with the clay trap. Is there TRULY no solution? I thought the idea was that you NEEDED to have a washing machine go through the clay trap to wash towels and whatnot safely. And yes the washing machine pumps water out at high force, but that water goes into the utility sink and drains as normal - the water is not being forced into the drain, just pumped into the sink where it drains normally. So I don't see that velocity of water is an issue at that point, though volume may be. Wouldn't I just clean the trap and discard as normal, regardless of what is going through there? I thought the whole idea was to keep things from getting to the actual drains ...
  8. I am (FINALLY) getting ready to set up a home studio. I've had the plumber over for a variety of issues in this near-60 year old home that seems to still have nearly all the original plumbing (except the bathroom sink). I have shutoffs that won't budge, etc. But the BIG thing for me is that the former owner moved the washer/dryer/water heater out into the garage. The water heater is not so much a problem - but the washing machine is because I have to run a heater out there to keep it from freezing pretty much all winter. And - they took out the utility sink altogether. I sort of understand much of this due to how small the kitchen is (which is where all this was kept previously) but schlepping laundry in and out of the garage at my age is no fun. At any rate I need the utility sink, and consequently the sink trap. So can I move the washing machine back inside and drain it out through the utility sink with the clay trap installed? MY plumber was very negative about the idea of putting the sink trap in the regular kitchen sink because he thought that was too much non-clay water to run through the trap - but wouldn't it be even worse with a washing machine? All the old washer hook ups are still there (hot and cold and the drain in the kitchen where the washer used to be is capped, the drain is run into that drain from the garage so it is still in use and clear). I am hoping to be able to use the utility sink for my clay, the washing machine, and a portable dishwasher. He seemed fine with the portable dishwasher running through the clay trap under a utility sink, but not regular sink water if I put the clay trap on the regular kitchen sink (which I would get a deep farm kitchen type of sink if I did that). Frankly I don't get why the regular sink would be an issue when the dishwasher is not. Basically one wall of my current kitchen would now be taken up by the washer and a utility sink and a small area for a desk/work area, and I'd just schlep the dishwasher in when I needed it until such time (if ever) as I can install an 18" dishwasher next to the sink (VERY small kitchen if I bring the washing machine back in from the garage). What consequences are there for running a washing machine through the same trap? Then adding the dishwasher which would probably get used only once or twice a week (same for the washing machine actually). Does the amount of water flow make a difference in the size of trap or something?
  9. I know this was posted months ago but I hope you're still around. When I click the link provided, it takes me to a page that shows 7 different products. I can't tell which one you are referring to. Can you give us the name of the actual filter? Sorry, I can't seem to tell which one would be appropriate. Probably not the "basic" or the one for the room air conditioner, I'm guessing, LOL! Is it the Filtrete Health? That one seems to have the highest Microparticle Performance Rating, which I think means it filters out smaller particles...
  10. Mark - Is this it? http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/12921-clay-sink-drain-solutions-for-mild-climates-my-setup/?hl=%2Bsink+%2Bmark
  11. I use this for lots of stuff. However the manager of a local co-op refused to allow me to bring my hardiboard to use there. He insists that the edges break down and you get junk in your clay. I'm sure this could happen given enough time, but its never happened to me. If I DID see the edges starting to break down and stuff was getting in my clay, I'd throw the board out and get a new one. The stuff is not expensive. Is this a reasonable concern? Honestly it sounds more like what happens to wallboard when people try to use that for drying boards and what not.
  12. I'm no longer young and hale but I STILL don't wedge sitting down - even given the difficulty I have standing. I don't "wedge" the way most people do either. I wire wedge, also known as "stack and slam" http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/topic/4801-wrist-brace-when-wedgingthrowing/?p=43358 There are videos and more explanation of wire wedging in that thread.
  13. It probably depends on the raku, but we used a white raku and glaze fired to cone 6 (I forget what the normal bisque fire was) - you should probably check with the manufacturer.
  14. I wonder if it's related to the site issues? Try contacting the administrators, maybe this is a new clue for them ...
  15. Thank you! I thought it looked like some variation of a stamping technique!
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