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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
Found 12 results
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Repairing hairline break from shipping on finished piece. Thinking loctite but I’ve never used it before.
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HI, I have a really long hairline crack in a sculpture that just came out of bisque fire :/ The crack is from the base to the neck, goes all the way through but very thin. Been doing research regarding Bisque fix, Mend it and paper clay. Looking for advise on which is better for hairline as cannot assure product completely fills the middle. Really want to glaze this to cone 6 without it separating even if I have to rebisque.,
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Hi, We have an old Alpine gas kiln, and would love to find a good local repair person. We are in Bucks County (Bucks County Community College) 45 min from Phila, near NJ. Our kiln is REALLY old--serial # 121, from the 1970's? -
Hi Was hoping for some guidance. I bought a used wheel shampoo 21. The 2 piece splash pan leaked , I replaced it, while not leaking as much there is still water coming out. Never had a splash pan leak before. Any ideas/suggestions? The wheel works great. thanks for your help. i
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I’ve never used a kiln before and i would like some advice on repairing a Skutt kiln I got. It hasn’t been used in years and I haven’t had the chance yet to turn it on. Parts of the elements are broken off and I’ll have to replace them most likely. The brick sides near the bottom seem in bad shape. I would love advice on what to do first and how to go about fixing the kiln to good condition. Would I need to replace the bricks near the bottom or could I fill it in with with something? And how should I go about taking the rust off the outside of the kiln? I appreciate any replies I get!
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I got this old Paragon kiln for free from someone who had it sitting in their garage for a long time (15 years maybe?). I'm pretty amateur, but I'd love to get more into ceramics and firing/how to upkeep my equipment and safely. Could someone tell me how to go about making sure this kiln is safe for use? The wires look pretty good as far as I can tell, but I'd have no idea if they weren't apart from if they were rusted. There's cracking in the bricks, will that be a problem? (I haven't even cleaned it at all yet and sorry that the photos are blurry)
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Hi all, I have recently purchased a Podmore wheel to find that the whole electrics system needs repairing! not ideal Everything else in the wheel seems in good condition and would be a shame to write the wheel off! My uncle fixes motorbikes and deals with electrics so had a look at it and got it working but then it stopped again. we figure that someone previously has done some soldering work on it and basically it needs a replacement electric system. I rang Potterycrafts who took over Podmore in 1982 and asked if it could be refurbished or if they sell the parts and they said I would need to find an electrician who wanted to fix it for me and the modern wheels are so different electrically wise that we cant even combine the two. The wheel is currently in swindon, Wiltshire. Any ideas of how to get it fixed or who to ask? i really dont want to scrap it
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Hi, My wife managed to twist and snap this! Can anyone tell me what it called exactly as I cant seem to find replacements on t'interweb. If anyone has any surefire (sic) ways of repairing it, then that would be helpful too. It is to sit in the top vent hole of a Cromartie portable kiln (Hobbytech 40) and have a thermocouple through it (trying to build a Raspberry Pi controller). Cheers Andy
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Yesterday my husband and I successfully replaced all the elements in my Skutt KM-1027 kiln. Unfortunately we chipped some of the firebrick as the old elements were brittle and tough to remove. Photos attached. Do I need to repair those chips? if so what do you use to repair (kiln cement? what type?). I saved the chips that came out. Thank for your help. -
Hi Folks, I picked up a second hand kickwheel with a motor. I don't see any identifying marks on it, but I'm pretty sure it's an Estrin. She spins freely, the motor works well, and the head is level. However, there seems to be a low spot on the flywheel so the motor (if only lightly engaged) skips a portion of the flywheel. If the motor is fully pushed down then it makes contact all around, but it still feels like there's a pulse. I'm finding that my throwing is off because of it. I have wall thickness issues and centering feels off. Is there a way to remedy this? Would a softer disc drive help (the current one looks okay- not overly hard or cracked... maybe slightly beveled on the edges)? Or do I need to get the flywheel leveled somehow?
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I just bought a collection of ceramic pieces, green ware, bisque, partly painted or choked, from a former ceramic painting teacher. Most of the pieces are from the late 80's to early 2000's. I'm trying to find out how to fix some of these pieces, such as broken antlers or wings, legs or feet or arms or hands. Some of these pieces have been started painting or choked, some are green and some have been fired ready for painting or choking. How do I fix these pieces if I'm going to glaze them then fire them again? How do I fix the green ware so I can fire it? What is the best way to fix the pieces that I'm not going to refire? -
Hello, I've never posted before and I'm a novice so pls bear with me! I have been asked if I would like to buy a kiln that has been unused for a long time and I can see from the photos that there is a crack to the kiln wall inside and there may be other issues too. I've been in touch with the makers (Potterycraft) who have said that it will cost £100+VAT to look at it and it is very old. It is unlikely that it has been fired a lot, so I was wondering if anyone had the same kiln and if so, worst case scenario what sort of things can go wrong/to look out for. Any advice (even if it is to steer clear!) would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance!
