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Found 19 results

  1. Last year I decided to resume my passion for modeling clay and in particular stoneware and porcelain clay. I decided to specialize in single firing (I had a book taken in Scotland several years earlier). At the moment I'm cooking at 1240°C, non-stop. The cooking lasts 3 hours between 0 and 200°C and then travels at a speed of about 100°C per hour (if I remember correctly: the oven is not mine). I'm doing glazes experiment using wood ash. This idea came from the fact that we use the fireplace and in particular the pellet stove for the winter. Wood ash from the pellet stove is
  2. I'm a beginner potter and I've tried wood firing pottery outdoors because an electric kiln is not very accessible for me. My small kiln is about a bit bigger than 2'x2'x2' and made from regular red bricks with a regular grill grate halfway to place pottery. As you can probably tell, it has terrible insulation and I can never get it to a high enough temp to fire glazed pottery. I can bisque fire and it works but It never gets hot enough to melt glaze, even the low fire glazes I use. I really don't want to ditch this project because I've already put so much time and material into it
  3. Hi there, I have Amaco Potters Choice glazes and they say that they should be fired to cone 5/6. I am very new to pottery and was wondering what this means in terms of the firing schedule in my Nabetherm kiln. I have been trying to get the effects as shown on their website but they do not look very similar! What would the different outcomes of cone 5 and 6 be? Thanks so much and really appreciate any help, lara
  4. Hello all, My dad would like to set up a small studio with a medium-sized (18-22" or so) electric kiln for firing mid-range ceramics. He is in Northern PA close to Binghamton, NY. He's willing to drive up to two or three hours in any direction for a used kiln in good condition, and has been scouring craigslist and offerup, but nothing has come up yet. Would anyone here have any leads? Thanks! Alisha
  5. I’m new to ceramics and recently bought a used kiln that’s quite old but works like a charm. i don’t really know what the numbers on the knobs are and I’m trying to bisque cone 06 and glaze cone 6. I don’t have pyrometic bars for the cone 06 bisque so any help on what the numbers on the knobs signify and how to reach the desired temp would be awesome. (I do have glass cone 6 bars)
  6. So there's this glaze one of the potters I follow on IG uses that has me drooling. I'm too shy to ask for a recipe but from scrolling through the feed I see that it's a wood ash glaze fired in oxidation. I don't know if this potter uses real wood ash, all I know is that I don't want to mess with real wood ash myself. I found a few synthetic ash recipes that are supposed to mimic ash sourced from different kinds of burned materials. Also found some wood ash ^6 ox. glaze recipes I want to try that I believe may produce the look I'm after, which is very glossy with tiny white crystals.
  7. Hello clay hive mind! I was happily making some planters and cups last week out of clay I'd marbled. I thought I'd used Laguna Speckled Buff and B-Mix (50/50), but no ... turns out it was Speckled Buff and Soldate. ugh - I'd grabbed the wrong bag. Is my bone dry greenware trash? Can I fire at Cone6 and get some use out of them? I'm thinking that the cups are NOT food safe (plus bonus: they likely won't hold hot liquid), but can I use them as planters? Some folks say that porous planters are best anyway ... (trying to find some silver lining here). I'd love to hear anyone else'
  8. Hello! Does anybody have experience firing Standard Clay 112 or 182 to cone 06/6? These are the clays that I work with and typically my studio fires to cone 05/5. However, I have recently started working out of home and found a studio nearby that will fire my work, but to cone 06/6. I want to be sure that I like the result before committing to the change.
  9. From the album: Clay Tests

    Cone 6 Terra Cotta Unglazed. Body developed from locally sourced (wild) clay with hematite iron source.

    © TJA2020

  10. Hello, I recently bought some OH10 (they were out of OH6) and was told I could just fire at cone 6 and everything would be fine. Then I was told the pieces wouldn’t vitrify and would be too porous for use (mugs and bowls). The studio will bisque the OH10 for me and asked if I have my own cone 10 glazes. The question is, can I fire my cone 6 glazes on the cone 10 bisqued pieces? Thank you for the help! Josh
  11. I've recently had problems with dark rings or patches on my clay body, just underneath the glaze application, in a cone 6 glaze fire. It looks as though my clay body actually burned. My witness cones look great - just as they should. I'm firing to 2232. It's happening with my mid fire white stoneware as well. I have a fairly new kiln, and this hasn't happened before. Could I be over firing even though my witness cones look good? My kiln is 2 years old and fired, on average, once a month. Do I need new elements already? Thanks for any advise!
  12. Hi there! I am wondering if someone could help me with converting this formula to use a different Feldspar. Possibly give me a good explanation as well.
  13. I’m looking for a good stable cone 6 crawl for use with Mason stains. The crawls with Mag Carb and Nepheline Syenite tend to burn out some colours at cone 6. Thinking that some Frit 3124 substituted for some of the Feldspar might do it but any pointers would be appreciated.
  14. Hi everyone, Thanks in advance for your help! I am having some issues with a cress kiln FX 27-P. I am new to operating a kiln and have only successfully fired 1x to cone 04. I had no issues with the timer, kiln sitter, thumbwheel (rotated to different numbers throughout firing), and maintained power to the kiln for entire firing. I read the entire manual and follow instructions on kiln when programming settings. In my second firing- set kiln to 12 hour timer, cone 6 bar in kiln sitter, set it on slowest firing setting. Walked away from the kiln for maybe 2 hours- when I walk
  15. Hi all, Second time posting here and I’m hoping you can help! Hopefully this is the right place to be for a troubleshooting question like this. Im currently working from a recipe for Val Cushing’s Cone 6 Porcelain Slip. grolleg: 15% tile 6: 15% Epk: 3% om4: 10% flint: 25% neph sy: 30% gerstley borate: 2% —————————— Sodium silicate: .0028% calgon: .0005% When I mixed this before, as now, I subbed the deflocculants with Darvan. I mixed it successfully then, but I’m currently have difficulty. I know that darvan generally subs
  16. Hello, I just unloaded a kiln load and noticed a substantial amount of pinging. My kiln is pretty much brand new (firing #3) and it reached cone 6. The pots are not crazed and hold water perfectly. The glaze seems to "fit" the clay and I see no glaze peeling. I have used both clay and glaze together before with no issues. I cracked the kiln around 300 F and opened it at 250 F. Hopefully, I can get an explanation.
  17. I somehow managed to put on a 15 hour HOLD instead of a 15 hour delay on a bisque meant for cone 04. Any ideas as to what cone that actually hit? I’m so scared to open the kiln. Still cooling. It held around 1900° for 15 hours. Clay is cone 6.
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