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  1. hi there! after a couple years of outsourcing kilns to use, ive finally put in the money and got myself a nice little amaco EX-329-SF with the controller. not a huge kiln but its all i need for now. after doing some quick research I started a first firing with no ware but the kiln furniture, and a small [absolutely bone dry, I live in a desert country and its been drying outside for weeks] dog greenware figure to test the firing capability. I put in the dog as I live in a pretty non artist-friendly city and have little access to ceramics supply. problem is, ive fired it with all the peephole plugs closed and just realized now when im not home to change that. I had it preheating at 80 celcius for 6 hours last night, and the temp appears to be ramping up well now 12 hours later. but im worried now that ive damaged the elements or something of the sort? its a brand new kiln, i couldnt find a second-hand kiln anywhere till the next few countries over, and that would be too complicated to try and send over to where i am. also note the kiln is outdoors so i havent put in a vent system. i guess im asking, did i damage my kiln by leaving all peepholes closed on the first firing? it should be cooled enough to open by the time i get home, but i wouldnt know how to check for damage of the elements unless its very clear. thanks in advance
  2. So i’m new to the whole kiln thing and i was given this old kiln from a family friend. i was told to replace the coils and the control panel so i ordered the coils and replaced them, ripping apart a good amount of the fire brick in the process. and i was given a kiln sitter control panel too and after replacing the coils i have no clue where to go from here. I can’t find anything online oh how to/where to connect the wires inside the control panel. Any help is greatly appreciated, also do i need to repair the fire rock?
  3. I bought a used amaco kiln EX257 SF 240 Single phase and I’m looking for replacement elements. Amaco is 9-11 weeks out on replacement parts and I can’t find any stores online that carry them. Local shops in my area don’t carry Amaco kiln parts. I was told Skutt makes Amaco kilns, have found that other skutt parts work with my kiln - like feeder wires, terminal strip, relay, thermocouples etc. Does anyone know if there would be a skutt compatible kiln elements? Or anywhere that sells Ex 257sf elements? thanks!!
  4. Hello everyone, I've started dabbling in pottery about three years ago, making bonsai pots. This fits with another hobby of mine, you can guess which :). Point is, after firing my works with some acquaintances, I've decided that my own kiln is a must in order to really progress in the craft. The problem is that I my backwater location the chances of buying a second hand one are next to none, and I can't really justify spending almost $2500 for a new one. So I came up with the idea of actually building one from scratch. Yes, I know it's hard, yes, I know it can be dangerous but I'm trying to be as smart about it as I can and mitigate all the risks as much as I can. I would really appreciate it if you ladies and gentlemen would be willing to part with some knowledge to help me have the best possible outcome for this project. Now for the tech specs: In order to fit the nature of my work, I would need a 50x40x30cm interior. (19.7x15.7x12 inches) The temps needed would be around 1240°C (2264°F) The power I can get away with as a household consumer in my location is 230V 16A ~ 3600W This takes me to my first point: As far as internet wisdom goes, the Wattage needed for a pottery kiln is 0.6W/cm2 which would place me at a needed Wattage of around 5600W. Waaaay above what I can provide. But then I read specs for kilns produced on Germany like Nabertherm that for a 60L pottery kiln with a top temperature of 1300°C produce single phase 230V 16A models, which makes me believe I can do it. I'm assuming that I'll need to go with more insulation and longer firing times, but it's doable. Is that accurate? Next up, elements: luckily I have a provider for Kanthal A1 wire near me and prices are decent. Would 1.6mm 1380°C max, 0,721 Ohm/m be suitable? With this diameter I seem to be able to juggle the resistance, wattage, length and placement of elements as close to optimal, with 2 elements running in parallel. Thirdly the most amusing topic... Well not amusing but maybe the most complex. The controller. Being in IT i'm a sucker for gadgets. Usually buying them, true, but this time I'm thinking about building :). I saw a lot of projects on the web with Raspberry Pi kiln controllers. The features they provide, the adaptability and the connectivity of the systems sounds amazing. Question is: does anyone fire with something like this? How does it compare to commercial controllers that are super expensive and in the stone age as far as features go. Are they worth the trouble? An example project that stuck with me is below. But there are many more Thanks for the help, and looking forward to chatting with you. Mihai
  5. Hi! I just bought my first kiln which is a Nabertherm top 60. It says that the max temperature is 1300 C but I was wondering how hot can I actually fire it too. In the manual It says the company recommends firing 70 degree lower than max T . Does this means I will not be able to do high fire ? Is someone using this kiln at least to 1280? I will not fire it often as it's my personal use kiln, not a student studio (probably do 2 glaze firings per month). I was hoping someone here has a similar situation and would share some advice Thank you!! Carolina
  6. Hello I'm buying an older mode of the crest kiln B-23-H. The current owner says that this model doesn't have kiln sitter but in the pictures there clearly is one. It was her late mothers and she doesn't know much about the kiln, I'm guessing the kiln sitter is broken. Has anyone been able to fix a kiln sitter? How difficult is it? I'm new to owning a kiln.
  7. I have a complete set of 12 new elements for a Duncan model 1029 kiln, 240V single phase. These were purchased from Euclid's Elements as backups, but we retired that kiln before they were needed. Asking $450, USPS priority shipping included.
  8. I have an old second (third? fourth?!) hand kiln that should be able to reach up to 1300 degrees but seems to be getting stuck at around 200 degrees less than I need. I managed to do a bisque firing but when trying to do a glaze firing the kiln stopped at 1075 degrees celsius and then started to cool whilst still on. The controller (Ipco 3300) showed 'END' even though it had not reached the temperature I wanted and did not show an error message. I have no idea about the history of the kiln, when the elements were last changed etc etc. I (think I've) checked the controller settings to make sure nothing is set to hinder the maximum temperature. I have read about working out if it is the relays or the elements? I am a total rookie so don't really know where to start. Is this the best first move to troubleshoot the issue? Or could it be something simpler?
  9. So I stumbled upon this tiny kiln for free and I couldn't pass it up. It's proven to be a mysterious little thing. Disclaimer: I have zero hands on kiln experience and have only had my pots fired for me in a community kiln, but doing a lot of reading in hopes of eventually having my own. This little kiln is from sno industries and the internet doesn't seem to think it ever existed. The company Sno Industries is now out of business. I've found some other sno kilns floating around the web but nothing that looks remotely anything like this one, and the model and serial number yielded no results. I contacted a couple kiln manufacturers hoping one had bought it out, and no one knows anything. Contacted The Ceramic Store that sells elements for Sno kilns (not my model though), but they said they have no info on them and sent me to where they got the elements, Euclid. I'm now waiting on any leads from euclid. It's labeled model PMK serial # 1182 Volts: 120 amps: 12 It has a light that lights up when plugged in and dial that has high medium low. I don't see a kiln sitter or any other way to tell the temperature or control it besides the dial. There's a hole in one side that I think may be where a kiln sitter would be fed into maybe? Or maybe it's just a peep hole? I have scoured the internet and emailed many manufacturers trying to get any kind of info on this little thing. I would really love to try to get it working as a little kiln for me to play around with but I don't know where to start. I like that it can run safely on household current with standard outlets, but still scared to plug it in for long without more info. I plugged it in in my garage (120 v 20 amp breaker) to see if it would turn on and it did, and started to heat up. I have 04 05 06 cones to test it but didn't know where to begin. My tentative plan to get a feel for what it can do is Put the witness cones in and close top, leaving little peephole open, fire with dial on low for 3 hours, turn up to medium for 3 hours, turn dial to high for 2 hours. All the while constantly peeking in at my little witness cones to see whats going on. Is that a reasonable plan? Anyone have any advice for moving forward or wanna help me puzzle out what the heck to do with this funky little kiln? If my initial test shows it's functional and could reach those low fire temps I'd like to install a little kiln sitter and invest in a pyrometer. But for now I just want to figure out if it works at all. The previous owner told me it fires to 2300k and they slumped glass in it, but that's the only background info I have. I don't even know how they determined it fires to 2300k.
  10. I bought a Skutt Km 1227 off of a friend. It’s in great condition but I did a glow test this morning and only the top two and bottom two elements were glowing by the time it got up to 500. I opened up the electrical panel and everything seems to be connected fine and looks to be in good condition. Has anyone run into this before or know what the problem could be?
  11. Hi friends! I’m venturing into a self-build! Will do a small-ish brick kiln. I live in Chile where components of all kinds are either scarce or much more expensive that in the states. Happily I am currently in the U.S. so want to pick up the needed hardware here. Thing is, after doing searches (including this forum) I just haven’t found a clear outline of what is needed. Even the little kiln building book I have seems a little too vague on parts to buy. I do have access to a great plumber who has worked my other propane equipment (our stoves and hot water run on propane). Does anyone here have a novice-friendly outline of hardware needed? Plus a basic set-up? Diagram? And recommendations for branded/sources? My primary firing needs are single-fire to come 6/7, but I will also look to run cone 10 for translucent porcelain. Would be great if I can purpose this kiln for raku also. Is that fine? My work is mostly slip-decorated. Thank you so much for any guidance, tips and of course encouragement!! Warmly, Heather
  12. Hi there, I've been a member for quite a while but this is my first time posting. Up until recently I was in a communal studio but I am more than likely getting my own space in July. I've been shopping around for kilns but I'm having a hard time making up my mind. First of all I'm not sure if I should get a L&L or a Skutt (I will be buying it brand new). Secondly I'm having a hard time decided on the size. I'm not the tallest person and also have some lower back problems occasionally so I was thinking of getting a short model (Skutt KMT 1022 or 1218, or L&L e28s). Mostly looking for a kiln between 7-8 cubic feet as I will be doing a lot of production. My question with the wider shorter kilns, does it have a harder time reaching temperature due to the width? Also is it worth it getting the 3" brick? I will be firing to cone 5. I've only worked with a Skutt KM1027 which I like a lot but I'm afraid the height might bother me in the long run. And one last questions regarding the touchscreen, I really like the way the Skutt KMT's look and I'm unsure about the Genesis Touchscreen Controller. Thanks in advance for any opinions or experiences! Ekua
  13. Hi everyone, I recently took the plunge and got myself a new Skutt 818 kiln. I set it up and started a test fire like they recommended in the manual. But while it was firing, I noticed a gap between the lid and the main body. I'm not sure if it's a fitting issue and if I have a defective model but I wanted to get opinions from those who have more experiences with kilns before contacting the dealership. In the last image of the two bars, the bottom bar is not perfectly sitting parallel to the body of the kiln so I'm wondering if that's the cause of the issue. Should I send it back or get it repaired? Thank you all for your replies!
  14. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  15. Hi everyone. I am in need of somewhere I can fire a kiln in Orange County, California. I live in an apartment and don't have the electrical or space necessary to do so. I've been given an old Duncan kiln, in rough shape, from a friend who didn't know how to use it. Looking for someone with a garage or private space to fire this or their kiln, some sort of kiln-sharing or kiln-coop situation. I have studios I take my work to fire to, but it is not ideal since pricing is more than it would be on my own, and since I can only reserve so many kiln loads. I need to be able to fire more frequently. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks so much! Kathy
  16. I'm trying to find more information on this kiln. I'm trying it out, some lady on offerup said i can test it to make sure it's good and running but that the last time she used it it was fine. She said it goes up to a cone 3 but I just want to know if anyone else knows anything and can help me out....been wanting a kiln to start my business and this was a good deal/not insanely big. Please let me know if anyone can help, cant upload photos because it says that the file is too large. I'll make a file on google and attach that
  17. I have built about 35 years ago a 8 cuft. kiln with a turntable in the floor. It is heated by a single Silicon Carbide element and max input is about 15 kW. It fires to cone 10 . The advantage of the turntable is the heating is very uniform because tyhe heat transfer is mostly radiation and the rotation ensures uniformity, and a single element works fine. The turntable also makes loading easy . I would be happy to share details. The insulation is fiber plus 2600board. Efficiency is high so cost to fire is low. The controller I built allows for 16 discreet power levels but I would like to change to the Raspberry Pi controller so I dont have to watch it so often.
  18. Hello! I am new to raku and making a homemade raku kiln out of a metal trashcan. I'm just a little confused on bisque firing. I'm thinking I'll bisque fire to come 04 but I'm just not sure how slow I need to increase the temperature. Is it also possible to maybe split up the bisque firing into 2 different firings. Since I have a homemade kiln and it will be outside I don't feel comfortable to leave it alone for like 7 hours and I have to monitor the temp anyways. I'll be using a torch attached to a propane tank and I'm also wondering if I can get a bisuqe and glaze fire out of 1 tank? Thank you!
  19. I recently did a glaze firing to cone 06 and the pieces came out horribly. I am relatively new to firing and was wondering if you could help me figure out what went wrong. I used BMix clay bisque fired to cone 04 then applied the glazes. The glazes used are in the pictures written on a note. I glaze fired to cone 06 and monitored the firing temps and they were as follows (all degrees are in Fahrenheit): Starting temp: 73 2 hours temp: 700 4 hour temp: 1185 6 hour temp: 1560 7 hour temp: 1680 8 hour temp: 1785 Final temp: 1827 at 8.5 hours Any thoughts very much appreciated!!
  20. Just purchased an old Paragon 100 portable controller and I cannot figure out where the thermal couple attaches. There's nothing but the 2 plugs in-and-out. Can anyone advise?
  21. Hi! I have a (pretty old) second hand kiln that I tried to heat up today - just to test if the elements work - and, surprise surprise, absolutely nothing happened. As I say, the kiln seems pretty old and I expected it to struggle a little bit but to not even try to heat up... Does that mean there's probably a different issue other than the elements just being old and a bit worn out? Would even old elements do something? Any suggestions on where I could start with the troubleshooting? Thank you!
  22. Hi y'all! I'm going to go see a kiln in person tomorrow. It's a Skutt 818-240. Owner seems to have boughten from someone else too, because they don't know how old it is but has had it for 3 years. She says it works well, but my only concern is that the the brick on wall is chipped but the coil is good. Is this going to be a problem functionally? I have attached a picture for reference. She is asking for $375 and she does NOT include shelves. Given that there are no shelves, chipped brick, and it works (yes, I will ask to plug it in before handing them money) a good deal? If not, what would you offer? https://imgur.com/a/bSPKleE Additional info: Sitter Kiln LT-#K, 50 AMP Aside from that anything you think I should be looking for in particular when checking it out or any questions I should be asking? Please let me know thank you
  23. I'm a total novice where kilns are concerned so you're going to have to be patient with me... I recently got my first kiln (Arterial Engineering Works Ltd. 1AS 1 phase - front loader) with an Ipco 3300 controller. The controller is showing the 'open' error message. I believe this is an error concerning the thermocouple. If so, would any replacement thermocouple do or do I need to find something specifically for my kiln model? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  24. Hi, I have a NEMA 14-30P wall outlet, but the kiln I just bought is a NEMA 6-50R plug. What do I do? I was going to get my electrician to switch the plugs, but came across these adapters. Are they safe to use?
  25. Hello all! Been following the community for the last few months and I have a question that I'd like to get your input on. I've been doing ceramics as a hobby and while I have access to a large potter's studio nearby where I can get larger pieces fired I'd like to buy my first kiln that I can use in my work studio for small batch pieces. I like to explore both handbuilding/carving/throwing for tablewares for personal use and make small non-functional sculptures. As my studio is a rental, I can't really install 240v circuits which limits to a few options. What I'm working with is a dedicated 120V, 30 amps circuit for the kiln. I'm currently debating between Olympic MAS 129E and Skutt KM 614-3. I like the Olympic over the Skutt because it can fire up to cone 8 (vs. cone 6 for Skutt) whereas I like the Skutt because it's slightly bigger (0.8 cf vs 0.56 cf) and I've been reading that Skutt in general has better user experience over Olympic. If you were to choose between the two, which one would you choose? What matters more? Thank you so much!
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