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  1. Hello friends, I am new to ceramic! Need help!! I have a Coneare 1822D (3.3 cubic, alittle bit larger than skirt 818) coming by the end of Aug. I have been thinking about where to put it for half year;( There is a 9.4’ x 5.1’ bathroom(no one use) in my commercial studio, ceiling height is 11’, no window to outside, a normal fan on the ceiling, the flooring is tile. Wire is ok. I’ve seen youtuber put their kilns in the bathroom, get really close with everything, no window but still working fine. Please give me more professional suggestions, I have no where else to put. I rent a place, this bathroom belongs to my commercial studio, I don’t live here or use this bathroom, just work here. Thank you!
  2. I recently got into throwing and have been making stuff in a local studio and at home. I feel comfortable and confident enough on the wheel to start doing things more on my own and in my own home studio. Costs for firing at the studio are starting to add up and it would just be so much easier to do everything at home rather than transporting pieces back and forth. I have done quite a bit of kiln research but I still feel like I know nothing and I find it a lot easier to learn the details from experienced artists. A family friend has an old kiln and as I expressed my interest in possibly buying it from her, she gave me the model and details, but I need more help figuring out if it is a good investment. And if it is, how much should I offer? Will it work for bisque and glaze firing? If this isn't a good fit, do you have any other first kiln suggestions? I have so many questions and need answers! The model is an Evenheat DTP-56DC-E. Thanks to anybody who can help
  3. Hi Everyone, I remember reading something several years ago about the possibility of a kiln off-gassing and permanently fogging up windows in the building. I am hoping to get my first kiln late this summer or early this fall. Because of what I read years ago, I was going to build a separate 10 x 10 kiln shed. But, I notice from other forum posts that many of you have your kilns in the garage. We have a large 3 car garage and I could easily wall off a section for the kiln if I don’t have to worry about the kiln messing up the cars. What are the risks of having a kiln in the garage with cars? It will be electric and will be vented to the outside. Thanks, Shannon
  4. Hi all, I started a slow glaze load cone 6 this morning at 10. e23t L&L. My calculations would have had it completed at 7 -7:30. I just spent a bit of time in the shop rather surprised that it's not finished yet. Watching the temp, and I noticed that the #1 relay is staying on and #2 and #3 are clicking on and off like usual. I have been watching the temp on the #2 tc and I checked the ramp speed. It goes between 56 and 80. According to the book it should be around 120. It seems to be struggling to get to 2200. It will get to 2201 2202 2203 then drop back down. First question, does that sound like a relay issue? Second question, if it continues to struggle, will I be ok to shut it off? The glazes I have in there are pretty stable. I think they would be ok. Thoughts? Roberta
  5. Hello! I just did a bisque firing with my Paragon A55B which has a manual kiln sitter. I fired to 06 in only 3 hours and 15 minutes following the suggested firing schedule from paragon. Which was as follows: 1 hour - Low, Top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - Medium, top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - High, top peephole out, lid vented Then just leave on high with peepholes in and lid closed. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to slow this cycle down a bit? Or do you think thats fine for a bisque? I imagine with more pots in it, it will slow it down a bit but its a small kiln and doesn't hold that much. Thanks!! Ariel
  6. Hi ceramics community! I have a kiln question. I inherited a Cress model e23 kiln from 2001 (automatic). It is mostly in good working condition and I have had a professional electrician configure all my wiring and test my voltage etc. and confirm the kiln is wired properly and should operate at 100%. However, I have had ongoing issues and inconsistencies with my firings. I use all cone 5 laguna clays and glaze - bisque to 04 slow and glaze fire cone 5 medium. The issue arises when I program my glaze firings - I initially select my program and things seem to be going well up until the end of the firing. The preview indicates that the kiln is trying to reach 2165 until the last ~30mins when suddenly the projected temp changes to 2181+. This temp is too hot for my glazes and has caused a multitude of issues such as blistering, over-running etc. I usually end up turning my kiln off manually at 2165 but you can imagine this is frustrating knowing I have to be very present with the kiln at the end of the firing otherwise it will not shut off automatically and over fire my work. Plus I’m unsure that if I manually shut it off that I get a controlled cooling cycle. (??) The manufacturer help me set a custom ramp-hold program to mimic a factory cone 5 medium firing and it sometimes shuts off automatically at 2165, but sometimes does the same thing (continues to increase in temp. At the end) he has not recommended anything else or have an idea why this is happening besides possibly an issue with my voltage, which, like I said, has been ruled out by my electrician. I understand tightly packed kilns can take a bit longer sometimes, but why would my cone 5 program be climbing up to cone 6 and beyond? so I suppose my questions are: why is this happening? Is this just a cress kiln thing? does anyone have a go-to custom ramp hold recommendation for laguna cone 5 clays and glazes? sincerely, madeline (a potter who desperately needs a kiln mentor LOL)
  7. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  8. Hello, I was wondering if anyone could help me, I have around 10 glaze fired tiles, they are all stoneware and I fired to 1200 with a 30 minute soak. 7 were glazed with textured brush on glazes and 3 were painted with a transparent glaze. For some reason when I took them all out of the kiln, all three transparent glazed ones and one beige tile appear to have several cracks in the back. The clay is a white stoneware clay, I placed them directly onto a batt washed kiln shelf and all three transparent tiles were on the top shelf. Not sure if this may be a coincidence. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions as to how I can fix this issue?
  9. Just installed a new envirovent, seems to be working properly but it's really loud. Like vacuum cleaner loud. A freebie noise measuring app on my phone put it between 76-82 decibels, and I can't imagine this thing running for the length of a firing, for me and for neighbors. A few questions for the collective: Is noise a known issue for the envirovent II system, or is it possible I have a defective unit? If it is just the way it is, how do you handle the noise? Do you keep it running for the entire time? Has the noise discouraged you from using it? Thanks, all!
  10. Hello! I have a question regarding what cones my kiln is able to fire to. I’m using a manual skutt 1227 that hasn’t been used in approximately 4yrs. I am a school teacher and have been told this kiln has been at the school since 1996. I have successfully fired the kiln up to cone 04 with low fire clay and glazes. Today I tried to fire some cone 6 clay/glazes, but after about 9.5 hrs on high the kiln still had not reached cone 6 temps. Could this be a problem of needing new elements? Or something more complex?
  11. Hello! Looking for some advice on whether to buy this used Cress Kiln. I haven’t thrown on the wheel since college, so I am intermediate at best. I just need a good kiln for hobby pottery pieces and don’t know a whole lot about kilns yet, or whether this is a good price at $195. Thank you so much in advance!! https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/478879423099184/
  12. Hi everyone. I am in need of somewhere I can fire a kiln in Orange County, California. I live in an apartment and don't have the electrical or space necessary to do so. I've been given an old Duncan kiln, in rough shape, from a friend who didn't know how to use it. Looking for someone with a garage or private space to fire this or their kiln, some sort of kiln-sharing or kiln-coop situation. I have studios I take my work to fire to, but it is not ideal since pricing is more than it would be on my own, and since I can only reserve so many kiln loads. I need to be able to fire more frequently. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks so much! Kathy
  13. When I am firing my electric kiln, I start with the lid propped open about 2 inches and the top peephole out. Then at around 1000 degrees F I shut the lid. The top peephole is open the whole time. I understand that the lid needs to be propped to allow moisture and gasses to escape in the early stages of firing. My questions are: 1) is 1000F an appropriate temp to close the lid? 2) Is it necessary to prop the lid on a ^6 glaze firing as well as the bisque, or only during the bisque (^06) I have been firing this way for a couple years and the pots always come out well. However the lid has badly cracked on both the inside and outside, necessitating repair with kiln cement. I have a large electric Skutt Kiln (I think it's the 1227). Even with my repair, it is all fractured and occasionally falls onto the pots below. The metal handle is also badly rusted and corroded, an issue I didn't notice when I bought this kiln used a couple years ago. I notice when I close the lid on an 1000F kiln it makes a soft settling crackling noise. I am curious if the cracking lid is from thermal shock when it goes from hot room temp to 1000F. Because of this, i wonder if it's better not to close it so late (and hot) in the firing. Perhaps it's just time for an envirovent. Is it normal for a lid to start to deteriorate like this? The newer versions of my kiln are made with the hydraulic lid lifter, which I assume lifts it more evenly, without the torque from supporting it on just one part. Please let me know if anyone else has had this cracking lid issue. -Dana
  14. SOLD Asking $200.00 for Seeley Olevin Kiln You must have any needed supplies to lift and move the kiln and you must be able to come to me to obtain the kiln. max temp = 2372 volts = 120 amps = 15 model =119 See also my sales offer (different post) for a L&L Manufacturing Kiln.
  15. Hey Ceramiacs I've been reading about the topic on the net, and it seems that there are very different opinions on subject. I was wondering if someone had a more scientific approach to the matter. Some say that you should open at 130F, and I think that is a little strange because that means that if you make a cup, you have to mind the temperature of you coffee, and other hot things you may consume of you pottery. If you open the kiln at 150f and hear crackling, isn't that a coincidence. I mean if the kiln are outside and it is freezing, I see how it might play a role. But it just seem strange that ceramics that reach red hot temperatures are sensitive too degrees that low . thanks,-] AC
  16. I bought a used Cress FX-1414P semi automatic electric kiln so that I can fire pieces at home due to quarantine. The previous owner did not have a manual and Cress is giving me minimal info and do not have manuals for this old of a model nor are there any available online. The kiln works. I 'm ready to do my first fire but would like to know if anyone has this kiln or one similar to it and any resources I can look at to better understand how to set it and operate it according to type of clay and cone. Any info would help! Though this is not my first time operating a kiln, this is my first personal kiln. Thanks! - Cristina
  17. I am wondering how to fire - in an electric kiln- burnished pots brushed with a porcelain/stoneware terra sigillata- or even just burnished! Is this possible? What temperature would you suggest to fire to? I’d like for them to be strong enough to be carried at markets and slightly shiny and smooth on the outside. Any knowledgeable advice and tips would be valued. Thank you V.
  18. Hi everyone, I recently took the plunge and got myself a new Skutt 818 kiln. I set it up and started a test fire like they recommended in the manual. But while it was firing, I noticed a gap between the lid and the main body. I'm not sure if it's a fitting issue and if I have a defective model but I wanted to get opinions from those who have more experiences with kilns before contacting the dealership. In the last image of the two bars, the bottom bar is not perfectly sitting parallel to the body of the kiln so I'm wondering if that's the cause of the issue. Should I send it back or get it repaired? Thank you all for your replies!
  19. I've been having problems with pitting in glazes lately and am wondering is it good practice to fire an empty kiln to burn off any potential lingering fumes to help glazes? Have been firing non-stop with about 2 months now, and in the last few weeks a lot of work is coming out of the kiln with pits. Have been in touch with my clay and glaze supplier and they are stumped! Have tried many firing schedules, from slow to fast, with up to 45min soaks at top temp and tried a drop and hold schedule but nothing seems to work. Have also tried bisque firing high to 1020oC with a 45min soak at 780oC on the way up and 45min at top temp but no success. It leaves me wondering should I fire an empty kiln, and would that "freshen up" the atmosphere within? Could the bricks be holding onto residual fumes from firings and could this be causing the glaze issue? I have an extraction fan that runs for the full firing until the firing is finished. And allow the kiln to cool naturally with the fresh air valve closed (as per operational instructions). Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  20. Hi all, So I'm a bit new to the downdraft vent game and have a question. I was advised to drill two 1/4" holes in bottom, and lid. It probably wasn't needed to drill into the lid because i have an older skutt and i know it's not vacuum tight. But I have it all hooked up proper and it draws a flame through each hole in the lid (when kiln is off). My question is (and this may be obvious) but as the kiln is on and reaching around 1000 f, heat is obviously rising and my little lid holes seem to be blowing out heat as opposed to sucking in? Is this completely normal? Can I assume my vent is still sucking in room air through those lid holes and mixing? Or am I just blowing out heat and fumes? Thanks!
  21. It looks like some of my shelves are hitting temp but kiln sitter hasn’t been triggering auto shut off (pyrometric bar melting). Please advise TIA!
  22. I am looking to buy a used Gare 1818 from a guy on Craigslist, but I cannot find any information on this kiln. I realize it’s an older kiln model, and I read that Gare was rebranded to Evenheat. This would be my first kiln so I wanted to do my research, and I was hoping to find a manual or something online but I’m coming up empty. Does anyone have any information on this kiln? Used kilns are hard to come by in my area, so I’m debating on just buying it anyway, and hoping for the best.
  23. Hello! I am just getting started on my own pottery studio. I recently bought my Duncan ES 1020 energy saver kiln and came it with nothing. I have been searching high and low for an owners manual and I can't find anything that says "ES" on it. So, is there any differences between the Duncan ES 1020 and the Duncan EA 1020? Could I use the Duncan EA 1020 manual? I'm new to doing this on my own so any advice at all would be greatly appreciated!
  24. Hello I have been using a Hobbytech 40 kiln for a few years, I think early 90s age but it could be older. The label has burnt off. I run it off a 13amp supply. The kiln isn’t in the best of condition. I am planning on buying a larger, more suitable kiln in the coming weeks but until then, I have to make do and mend. Over the last few months, the wires are burning out and firing is becoming tricky. I have to replace the wires ever 4-5 firings. The usual wire to go if the one at the top element connection. Anybody got any idea what would be causing this? I have removed and repacked the insulation as I could see some heat could be escaping, but the problem continues to happen. As you can see from photo, wires on right hand side to the lid safety switch are also now damaged from heat. Are these straightforward to replace? I was considering having a kiln engineer come to look at this, but the quote for the service alone without parts was over £350 (I only paid £300 for the kiln several years ago, and I’ve got more than £300 worth of work out of it). Any help from a knowledgeable person would be appreciated. Thanks.
  25. Hi All! I have had an old used Cress B-18-H 240Volt Kiln that I bought some time ago and never turned it on because frankly I didn't know what I was doing. NOW I have a garage and an electrician ready to hook this baby up but there is still a lot to learn. My number one question right now is ventilation because the garage it will be fired in has a car in it most of the time, it's a two car garage and the car is covered, however it raises concerns. It doesn't appear to be "vent ready" for a Cress Clean Air Exhaust System (I'll post pictures) but I wouldn't know what that looks like anyways because there was no example I could find online. I found a tutorial on youtube for drilling a few holes in the top and bottom and installing an Environment 2 made by Skutt to the bottom and out a window. My question is really if I can go the youtube route with the Environment 2 on my Cress kiln? It seems easier and something I could reuse on another kiln in the future. Any advice would help! Thank you! T
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