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Found 45 results

  1. Hello! I am fairly new to throwing and have just bought my own wheel, a Rhode HMT 500. First few weeks of throwing everything was greet, but now whenever I throw directly on the wheel head I am getting this black substance that feels gritty. It’s actually really abrasive and hurts my hands after a while. I thought it may be residue from some more heavily grogged clay I was throwing, but I have cleaned and cleaned the wheel head. On a totally clean wheel, if I wet my finger and let it run over the wheel head I can see and feel this black gritty substance build up. Does anyone know what it might be or how I can get rid of it?
  2. Hi folks, it's been awhile. I've still been throwing pots and being a potter. Recently I made a leach style treadle wheel and I love it. It was made with less expensive materials, pine instead of hardwood, and a couple other decisions I made that kept cost down. I'm thinking I might be able to make a Leach style Treadle Wheel for about $1000, unfinished. Maybe $1200 painted. Do the wise sages of this ceramics board have any idea if there would be any sort of market for this? Here's my thought. I've always wanted one of these wheels, and my buddy came across some abandoned homemade versions that were all piecemeal and rusted. But I salvaged them and learned how to build the wheel, and it works really well. I finally have my dream wheel, and I didn't have to spend $2500 on it. Maybe there would be more treadlers if the wheel was more affordable? I'd love advice if you are in a helpful and loving spirit. Thanks all!
  3. Looking for a used pottery wheel in the NY/ New England area. Will pick up.
  4. Hi! I had just bought myself a used pottery wheel, a Thomas Stuart kick wheel just like in the image with the motor attachment and everything. When I originally picked it up the owner showed me how the motor worked, but as I am reassembling the wheel in my backyard I can't get the motor to work. Any help or suggestions would be super appreciated since I really know nothing about motors! Happy to take pictures or anything else. Thanks for reading, Noah
  5. Hi everyone! I have taken a few throwing classes and am in love. I really want to purchase a wheel, but I noticed they can go for quite a hefty price. Does anyone have any budget friendly wheels they can recommend? Greatly appreciate it :)
  6. I haven't used my Brent cxc for a few months. When I tried to turn it on today nothing happened . Is there any kind of reset button? Any ideas? It is 2 1/2 years old. thank you, Don
  7. Hi Everyone! i was wondering if it's possible to use a wheel on the second floor of our house? We have wooden floors and my boyfriend is concerned about the wheels vibrations/weight... Is this something you think will cause problems? Thanks, Caroline
  8. I have several shimpo wheels, all with 12" wheel heads. Consequently, my accessories are set up for that size. I recently bought a new skutt wheel, and of course it comes with a 14" head. I want to use my other accessories, can it be as simple as buying a 12" head. The beauty of the skutt wheel is it's tooless wheelhead removal. The additional head is 150$ though. Does anybody know if the sizes are the same between these manufacturers.
  9. Hello I really hope you can help me decide whether it is me or my wheelhead. I bought a new wheel four weeks ago and although I have little potting experience my Mum and Aunt were potters who learnt by themselves so I am doing tge same. Prior to purchasing this wheel there was a delay because they were having problems with the wheelhead. I think they still have. Please can any of you wonderful potters give me your verdict asap. I have attached two videos to help. Thanking you in advance. I don't seem able to send you a video ... any help would be massively appreciated.
  10. I purchased a Shimpo VL Lite brand new about three weeks ago. I also purchased some plastibats to go with it. I got it in and put together and threw on it. When I went to center the clay, it wouldn't center perfectly. I like my clay to center so my hands glide perfectly over it with no movement. When I centered on the wheel, there was movement in my hands, a bump, if you will. My husband (who knows nothing about ceramics) noticed the wheel head didn't seem to be moving in a perfect circle--there was a gap between the wheel head and the bats. I assumed maybe I got bad bats, so I sent them back and bought Wonder Bats. I also had the company send me a new wheel head, just to be on the safe side. Fast forward a week. Same exact situation. The clay will not center exactly, and as I'm throwing, I can only go up about 4 inches before the clay gets so off center it flops. I'm really unhappy. I messaged the company, sent them videos, and to be honest, the guy from the company I purchased the wheel from has kind of disregarded everything I've said. I called Shimpo and on Friday, the woman I spoke with was convinced the wheel axle was bent, but she e-mailed me back today and said "there is nothing wrong with the wheel." When the wheel was shipped, the box was badly beat up. I was a ceramics major in college just a few short years ago. I have taken a few years off, but I know what a wheel should feel like when I'm throwing on it, and I'm just not sure what else to do. Am I doing something wrong? What suggestions do you have for me?
  11. I need to find the best All-In-One clay for cone 5, great for both hand building and wheel throwing I know. That's a tall order. But I can dream. I have a pug mill and don't want 2 bodies. Problem: I have too many problems with my gas kiln for cone 06 anymore. I'm DONE. I am moving to cone 5. Criteria / Factors: I'm in Southern California I teach 180 high school students grades 9-12, all levels of art skills, so it has to take punishment Not too sandy on the wheel, not too smooth or squishy for hand building Not too dense so it is so top-heavy when trimming I'm willing to pug the new clay to soften it for throwing, if it is stiff and great for hand building, or visa versa Doesn't stain clothes or the tables, rolling pins, or make a mess everywhere Is not pure white (students can't see where they missed glazing spots when using light color glazes - painting) Good leather hard, doesn't soften up too easily when re-wetting to score things together Doesn't take every indentation to the surface of pieces, temperamentalD Centers on the wheel fairly easily, especially for teen girls with tiny hands Can take a good amount of water from beginners Pulling walls, it is strong, doesn't warp or sag easily Won't dry out too quickly in hands while hand building Doesn't bend or warp easily when removing from the wheel Not so soft that it caves when cutting and sliding off the wheel Doesn't make teens hate the class because it stains clothes or gets everywhere and of course, takes glazes well and can handle a little fluctuation in gas environments Cone 5 clays I've Tried: Laguna - Dover White: Nice clay, but pure white. easy to center, but A little soft when hand building Laguna - Plain (Buff): Nice light tan color, easy center and to rehydrate if repairing, but a bit too squishy and shows every dent Laguna - Moroccan Sand: I love this clay, doesn't leave residue - color, but a bit dense to center. It is really dark grayish brown, if they only could lighten it Laguna - Buff with Sand: Nice tan color, but WAY too sandy for students on the wheel Laguna - Greystone: Too dense and top heavy for small pieces, hard to center, but really takes a beating with water, warps when thin due to density of surrounding clay Laguna - Speckled Buff: A bit dark in color, has iron so it gets read everywhere, could stain (think girls with pure white vans) Laguna - LB-6: hmmm, can't remember, but nixed it very soon after Laguna - Sante Fe: OMG - red EVERYWHERE, like a crime scene Aardvark Clay - SBF - Too dark tan - a bit sticky for students Aardvark Clay -Arctic White: Too white Opinions???? Go!!!
  12. I got a new Skutt Elite wheel with the SSX drive about a month ago. I love the design of the wheel and how sturdy it is, but I can’t stand the motor noise and there seems to be something wrong with the pedal control. The noise is at one (sometimes two) speeds, the wheel starts this chirping/buzzing noise. It is definitely the motor, I have walked the belt off and it makes the same noise. The pedal issue seems to be that at the top end of the pedal range, the wheel actually slows down instead of continuing to speed up. I have been talking to Daniel at Skutt, sending him videos of the wheel, and he says it sounds totally normal and hasn’t really responded to my complaints about the pedal. Continental Clay replaced the potentiometer in the pedal, which did not change or fix anything, contrary to their assurances that it did. So I uploaded the video I sent Skutt to YouTube for you folks to listen to (File size limits are pretty small on this forum). I will copy the link below. At the end of the video I try to show the motor slowing down as I reach the top end. I have seen a lot of positive reviews on this site for these wheels, most of them match Skutt’s advertising of a “quiet” wheel. I also went to Minnesota Clay yesterday and they happen to have a floor model Elite without the ssx controller. Unsurprisingly to me, it is much quieter than my wheel and the pedal works properly. I took a similar video of that wheel I can upload to show that. I plan on taking the wheel into Minnesota Clay to have them look at it (their wheel guy wasn’t in yesterday) but I wanted to get the opinions of some people on this forum who have these wheels. So thanks for reading this and for any opinions you can offer me on this wheel!
  13. Hi, I have this problem of cracking or clay splitting when throwing in the wheel, pls find the attached picture and also, after firing at cone 08, the clay has a lot of surface cracks and sometimes structural cracks pls find the attached pic, pls advise why this is happening and how to avoid this in future. Thanks.
  14. Hi ceramics community - looking for your thoughts and guidance here. I just started in ceramics in January this year and love it. I took about (3) months of classes and have been in the community studio 9+ hours a week since I started. Where has this been all my life!? My question: I have set up my home studio on a budget to put more hours in and the last thing I'm missing is a wheel. I've been looking for the past few months and found someone selling a BRENT Model A that - based on research - I've gotten down to a reasonable price. Any suggestions on what I should look/listen for when I go to check it out for purchase this Saturday July 7th? I have attached a picture of the wheel and would really appreciate any beginner buyers guidance for an older wheel. Wheel Specs: 1/3 HP - 3 Amps - 110 Volt Thank you all in advance! -Kyle
  15. Hello, I'm new to wheel repair and have a question that most likely has a very obvious answer that I'm just missing! Haha! I have recently acquired a Brent Model 15 wheel. I just replaced the orange belt, and everything went well with that, but when I started it up and it still wouldn't spin I took another look and realised that I must be missing another belt-type part. The issue is that spinning cone is unable to make contact with the gear. Is appears that there is a ring or something of the sort missing on the gear that would usually allow the cone to grip and spin it. Would anyone be able to tell me what that part may be called, and suggest a place to buy one? Thanks!
  16. I acquired a Shimpo-West ring-cone popet wheel, which works well (and was an absolute blessing to get from a woman who ran the arts program at an old YWCA camp). I'm having trouble with bats. I tried drilling holes in plastic bats I already had, but I'm having trouble getting a tight fit on the wheel head since the posts are cone-shaped. I do not have the original manual, and the shifting while throwing is not working for me. Does anyone have suggestions for drilling more accurate holes, or even a source for purchasing a pre-drilled bat?
  17. I have a very small studio at the moment in my garage. To get the car in, the wheel has to be stowed. I have been pushing in and out to use it but it is difficult and probably not good foe the wheel either. Tables etc get broken down after i am done using with exception of small wedging table. You can imagine that the breakdown etc is a huge letdown to practice. Id like to put wheels on it until i have a more stable space where it can rest comfortably at the ready. Has anyone put their wheels on wheels? How did you approach it? I am thinking about probably a platform, casters would have to lock and be heavy duty. I am concerned about the additional height but dont want to cut my legs as the wheels are probably temporary. And it would need to be water resistant because I do a lot of platters that require bats larger than the splash pan. I also think nothing of throwing up to 50# on the wheel, and would love to do more than that at some point if I could get past my maximum cylinder height of 15". I would love to hear ideas. PS i have an old model Brent CXC that had the pedal replaced by a Soldner pedal WHICH I LOVE. The Soldner Pedal is really smooth, holds steady and has a case where I rest my foot that is more ergo for me.
  18. I need to buy a new wheel. I’ve been throwing for about a year and a half. I’m also in the UK, which limits my options and jacks prices up. I need a wheel that: Has excellent control, so speed changes are precise and subtle. Can go very slowly. Will not speed up when I release my hands Has a pedal that stays in a fixed position (so I can step off it while the wheel runs) Right now I’m using a Shimpo Aspire. My wheel has speed and control problems. It judders or stops at very slow speeds. I’m throwing about 2kg/5lb of clay at a time. When centering or even pulling, the wheel can slow down. It then speeds up when I release my hands or ease up on pressure. This feels like a loss of control. I also tend to throw thin walls, so this herky-jerky isn’t a good combination. I’ll want to throw larger pieces in the future with more clay. I don’t want to have to speed up the wheel to counter its weakness. My tutor uses a Wenger Super 70 which I think is a .5 horsepower wheel. I like its power. Right now I’m looking at a Brent B. I think Hsienchuen Lin uses a Brent. Shame it’s noisy. I like the idea of a Whisper because it’s quiet and I've seen videos where it's turning *very* slowly, but I have questions about the build quality and power. It’s also 30% more than the Brent. I think Matt Horne uses a Shimpo. There some shops here selling Rodervelds and Skutt Prodigies, but I don’t know about the shops or the wheels. Any recommendations?
  19. Hi there, I’m very new to pottery. My wheel keeps putting black (grease?) onto all of my pots and sponges! It might be normal but it’s making me a bit worried!
  20. Hi everyone, I recently relocated to Rome, Italy, and since I couldn't find a community studio I decided on getting a wheel of my own so I could work in my garage in addition to take classes. As far as firings go, I'll rent a kiln in a nearby studio, until I'll feel comfortable enough to get my own. I'd really love to get some advice as far as the wheel purchase goes. Haven't seen any used wheels on eBay and most shops here in Italy only sell Shimpo, so it looks like I get to choose between the RK3E (1.400 euro, looks like the whisper to me), the RK 55 (800 euros, looks like the whisper Lite) and the -Whisper T-2 that looks intermediate (1.120 euros, I'l attach a pic). I was looking around for reviews but couldn't find this last model anywhere online: I'd like to hear what users have to say about it! As for me, I am mainly interested in throwing small pieces of tableware, I never throw big quantities of clay, however I'm not sure how comfortable I'd feel with a wheel that has a belt, also the Lite just seems a bit light to me. However, I'm not a pro and I'm not a production potter so while I've heard great things about it, I think the actual Shimpo Whisper is just too much for me. I feel like I should start smaller, hence the intermediate solution. Does anyone knows if this wheel is actually any good? Many Thanks!!
  21. The other day I heard a weird constant noise coming from my studio, I thought it was one of my many vents or fans left on and didn't think much about it. The next day I found my wheel to be left on (oops) and spinning at top speed. I rushed over to fix the pedal but it was in the off position. Today I opened up the pedal to make the adjustment to the little plastic lever, I assumed this was the problem, having dealt with this flimsy contraption many times, but the lever seems to be working properly. No matter which position it's in the wheel goes top speed. Anyone had this happen before? Is there another area that regulates speed besides the pedal that I could check? It's a Brent CXC from the late 80's
  22. So, it took a little while but I finally did it. I know there was a lot of confusion when I explained it, but I hope these pictures clear a few things up. All I need to do now is trim it, any tips on how to do so would be greatly appreciated. Also, how do I smooth out the underside of the middle bowl.
  23. So I've been thinking about different wheel designs, and I thought of something similar to a chip and dip bowl. I was thinking about opening the clay, leaving nothing at the bottom, and then separating the two walls. Then you would pull the walls of the center wall, making it a little thick. Then you would connect the rim, essentially making a dome. Lastly you would push down on the top of the dome, making something like a candlestick, or a small bowl. So far I have gotten this far, but I struggle with widening the rim, and making it deeper. Does anyone have suggestions?
  24. Hi all, I have recently purchased a Podmore wheel to find that the whole electrics system needs repairing! not ideal Everything else in the wheel seems in good condition and would be a shame to write the wheel off! My uncle fixes motorbikes and deals with electrics so had a look at it and got it working but then it stopped again. we figure that someone previously has done some soldering work on it and basically it needs a replacement electric system. I rang Potterycrafts who took over Podmore in 1982 and asked if it could be refurbished or if they sell the parts and they said I would need to find an electrician who wanted to fix it for me and the modern wheels are so different electrically wise that we cant even combine the two. The wheel is currently in swindon, Wiltshire. Any ideas of how to get it fixed or who to ask? i really dont want to scrap it
  25. Hello, I am new to ceramics. I have made coil and slab pieces during high school art class, but that's it. I think I know the basics of making pieces, but I'm not sure how the whole firing process goes. I have found a used Skutt kiln for sale. Model LT-3K, three tier, new shut off tube assembly, inside 1/2 selves, on roll cart, and vents to outside for $700. Does this sound like a deal to anyone? What should I look out for when purchasing a used kiln? Also, I need all the start up tools. I think I would like to purchase a wheel to make cups, bowls, plates, mugs, and vases. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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