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High Bridge Pottery

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  • Location
    Stoke-on-Trent. England
  • Interests
    Rocks and fire

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  1. G0026 is a weird one, doesn't even really look like the same glaze? Maybe the ink is throwing me off. Did you dip them at the same time? Not sure why the worse clay is a lot better. G0027 seems like the one to go with. I would try reducing the silica and/or alumina and see if that reduces the orange peel texture. The high SiAl is probably doing a lot for how it fits though so may start crazing again. If it does it would be interesting to try your spodumene again and see if adding a little makes it worse or better.
  2. With G0023 you were just swapping out custer for spodumene? Strange results. If the G0027 is the closest to what you want then I would go from there. Can you post a picture of the 0.1 and 0.2 boron ones? Maybe G0026 too
  3. What's the problem with having high LOI? I never found it causes any problems, especially in cone10 glazes. Always found whiting the best CaO flux source. I hate trying to sieve wollastonite so don't use it, clogs up the mesh. and takes me 10x longer. The Silica and Alumina look too high for me but interesting to see what results you get.
  4. Why do you think adding say 0.1 Li2O and 0.1-0.2 B2O3 decreases durability? I think a good mix chemistry is better for durability in most cases. Too much of any oxide is bad for this so it seems a good option. Sure you can make a nice glaze with only Na2O and CaO but why not add some more flux into the dance that can also lower COE. I don't know how adding silica or clay is any easier or less complicated than using spodumene and a frit. Why ignore the calculated COE values when they line up with tests? The 6.5 crazed less than the 6.7. Even if the numbers are for a theoretical final melt they still have value in relation to each other.
  5. The last thing I was working on is a bubble free transparent. It's a slightly odd recipe as I was trying to remove any silica or clay. I was also removing zinc because I hear it is bad with some colours, and I don't know how well it reacts in reduction firings. Fired to cone10 oxidation on the tile. It is true that you don't need boron at cone10 but I see no negative reasons not to include it. I think your observation that a lot of the recipes are probably more a cone11 is a good one.
  6. I like using a boron frit at cone10. Much better than using zinc as a flux.
  7. A little lithium has always gone a long way to stoping crazing for me. I would try the spodumene addition. I would reduce the silica and alumina, but that's just me. @Bill Kielb What is the R2O/RO looking at? Is it just the alkali metal oxides ratio to alkaline earth metal oxides?
  8. Found a house with space for a studio. Been a long 3-4 years with little to no pottery ;[

    Excited :DD

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. Min


      So happy for you Joel! 

    3. High Bridge Pottery

      High Bridge Pottery

      Looking forward to being able to post some stuff here again :D  Few months and I should be set up. Have two weeks off work the end of next month as the factory is shutting down so plan to be moving in by then.

    4. Denice


      Isn't it nice when a factory shut down works to your advantage.    The company my husband worked for shut down at Christmas for two weeks every year.  Most people used some of their vacation time,  one year they shut down  for over a month.  My husband was promised a job when they reopened  so we decided to take a long vacation in New Mexico and Texas.  We did a no maps, reservations, computers  trip and the areas we were in didn't have cell phone service.   We found ourselves at the strangest little towns and tourist attractions.  Now that he is retired I hope to do it again.   Denice

  9. Where's ma test tile to look at! Don't leave us hanging
  10. Is there anything on the timers that you can twist? Never even seen a fixed interval timer and a repeat cycle timer. Also weird that the bottom elements are not controlled by the infinity switch. Interesting kiln.
  11. A lot to me is just more than my old commercial kiln would click the relays. I am using mechanical relays so I guess it is much easier to hear it. Do you think as long as you can keep it cool then there is not much to worry about with SSR's? In this picture you can see my test, it does wobble a little on the climb so could be much better but it is pretty close. It does get worse as it goes up and I have never tested past 900c so some tuning is needed. I just had no idea how so bodged this way. The big rise/drop is because I didn't code going from on for 60's to off for 60's right and it stuck on so I pulled the control wire. That setup was one big safety issue in the corner of my bedroom. Only tried once, it gave me a headache.
  12. I read a few things on pid tuning and was very confused on what to do, the one you posted looks a little easier for kilns specifically. I just ended up using the pid code to read the temperature difference from setpoint + actualtemp with p=1 i=0 d=0. Does 2 seconds not get the relay to cycle on and off a lot? Maybe that has a lot to do with my pid use I ended up deciding every 60 seconds if the power should be on for 1/6th of the 60 seconds up to 6/6th. That got things to work pretty well and only turn on and off once in 60 seconds.
  13. The only rule I can find says information is presented at your own risk.
  14. Are you deciding if you should turn the relay off or on every 2 seconds? How did you come up with the PID values to use?
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