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Mark C.

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Posts posted by Mark C.

  1. Crash cooling is hard on the kiln furniture. I have used a fan or two long ago to cool a kiln down-that said its best practice not to do any fast cooling.Best on the kiln,the furniture and the wares and on you. Yes you can do it but why?

    I once took the door down after turning off a cone 10 kiln-most of the wares shivered. You learn the limits which is good but there really needs to be a reason after learning them to push them again.

  2. Cone 11 fired 1/2 way is my lifes blood-If I had to choose between low or midrange I would be a midrange person. Low fire breaks much to easy . I did them all in art school (not midrange) and settled in at cone 10. I like wood and salt but my btread and butter is porcelain toughness with bright colors. They sell themselves and people love them for the durability.
    I got this from square today in fact

    Happy Face  
    Wait Time, Quality, Other, Selection, Environment, Customer Service
     
     

    Thanks mark! We appreciate your work. 
    We have 4 mugs and 4 bowls and a butter dish with lid and 4 large plates, and few other things I’m not remembering. 
    Plus all the countless gifts we’ve given to friends and family over the years. Thanks for your help, and take care!

     

    All my collage low fire work is broken and gone except a jug from high school on a shelve (non functional ) most likely lead glazed.I was 17 or 18 then.It reminds me how far I have come. Must be about 1 foot thick wall as well.

  3. 1 hour ago, Cheryl H said:

    How about if someone lives in a retirement community and runs a ceramic club. It is only for personal enjoyment. Would the supplies and kiln repair costs for doing this be taxable? If not how does one get a tax exempt number?

    In California  you apply thru the board of Equalization (BOE) recently renamed California Department of Tax and Fee administration  (rolls right off your tongue right)

    In Florida it will be similar -tax permit means you do not pay sales tax on some  resale items and you collect and pay tax on sales of pottery.Its a personal business permit not a club permit

    For example  I buy clay and do not pay tax but sell the clay as clay or potttery and collect tax and then pay the stae tax yearly or quarterly depending on sales volumes. reapairs do not fit into this at all.

  4. Min.

     I use this almost every week and want to thank you for the tip. I have semi retired my glass hydrometers since buying a few of these  big boy 100cc syringes. This is a faster more accurate way to get you specific gravity right. With a digital gram scale it super fast

    It sure beats wearing a 40-pound weight belt around waiting for earth to stop spinning and knowing you cannot fly away. No really it’s a time saver as well as ass a better system to see your specific Gravity. I have the weight written on the glaze room wall for reference including the syringe weight.

    Thanks now you have two accolade’s one is spar named after you and the other is this gravity deal

    IMG_4029.jpeg.7b68866ec39a412fd44ae12f7b281dea.jpeg

     

  5. I use a 9 inch paint roller as it only has one overlap spot on a 12 inch wide shelve.Less overlap=flatter surface

    I have no idea about why one would add 1.75% G-200 feldspar to wash-my guess is to make it stick more?

    I like this wash as one can get rid of it pretty easy and start again as it does not fuze  hard on to shelve but sticks enough so its not free in atmosphere and cuases issues in glazes. 

    I will add I run newly washed shelve thru a busque cycle with pots on them to get it stuckdown before a glaze fire-not sure if one has to but I like the idea of not having any loose material in a glaze fire .

    I also scrape the edges as soon as the shelves are washed and dry to clean them so there is no falling loose material on edge of shelve before bisquing

  6. The slower end of a glaze fire as Bill says make the glazes mature and look best so do not rush that and a slow cool at top end of fire also promotes crystal grow meaning better looking pots.

    I tend to go thru quartz slow as well and hit it hard after that (more gas pressure for I fire gas kilns more than my electric)

    I like slow end fires and my 35 cubic car kiln goes slow no matter what-so much thermo mass . My smaller 12 cubic foot updraft can fly but the glazes look best when the fire is slower .

    Speed kills in ceramics as in real life.

     

  7. If the pots are bisqued 1st then you can fire as fast as the pots and the kiln furniture can take it. The results will be different than a slower fire. Quartz temp is also an area that can crak think wares going to fast (I had that happen to extruded soap dishes a few fires back as they are thicker than the pots)

    It hard to get a dense packed electric to cone 6 in less than 7-9 hours. Better glazes if slow at end of fire as well

  8. I  to use (Currently I use a 100% parraffin )

    I just move the pot to bats and the wax dries before setting it down (waxing is done outside studio)

    I like Neils thought on

    (How about after you do your waxing, and before it is totally hardened, or may once it is hardened if it's still sticky enough, you sift a very thin layer of AH on the table and just 'dip' the bottom of the pot onto the alumina to get a thin layer on the foot. It's an extra step so that may mot be a good solution, but it would do the job.)

    There are a few seconds that this would work.

    I'm not sure why you are sponging the wax on bottoms?Whats this step  for?

    the trick with the shelve kln wash is super thin coat. then the spot that lifts off in so an elevation problem and you can touch it up if you need to

     

  9. I never have dipped my hot wax pots in AH-it was only a thought.

    I hot dip thousands of pots as do you. When I need a seat/lid waxed with alumina I dip my sponge with regular water solubale wax in AH powder and wax the seat.Not a hot dip deal

    most all my 50-60 advancers are washed with a light coat of homemade kiln wash as I am a all porcealin shop.

    I used to put AH in liquid wax but the dip sponge in it is more control and the little i need on lidded forms

    I think you could put some AH in the hot dip pan but it will fall out really fast-if you kept the wax level low that may get enough on the pot bottom (trial and error here for sure) by moving the flat bottom pot arond a bit in the settled power at bottom

    I hot dip about 2 thirds of 8 tons a year now. so I have some experince at it-ya down to only 8 tons from the usual 12 in the old days.

    I have found that glaze that interfaces with AH leaves a rough surface (not going to grind 1000 pots  every fire right) 

    I use lots of runny rutile glaze and I try to keep AH away from that interface.

    in terms of how much in my super large  14 inch Dazey hot dip pan I would start with 1/4 cup.

    The 1/2 AH and 1/4 epk 1/4 calcined epk wash is a killer wash ( paint roller on very thin). It will not give you any issues except stop the plucking

    I never flip advancers or have AH issues from free floating into other glazes.

    In terms of AH in wax it will be a powder after the glaze fire when the wax is gone it stays and is inert and will be a powered mess over time as it free and not bound up in say a wash.

    something to ponder

    let us know the cure

    buy the way these Dazey pans are huge-I get them on ebay -(have 3-2 new in box) If you shop them you can get them shipped for under $6o

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/384149692255?epid=1924504164&hash=item59711b1f5f:g:x0UAAOSwwe5glEAF

  10. A bit off topic but still relevant . I'm working with Skutt on a rusty stainless issue (metal band testing -more later on this) but in talks mid winter Skutt  they said that all kilns for European Market requires a kiln paper between metal and brick. I'm testing this on a jacket replacement very soon-They shipped me the jackets just before having a bone removed from thimb. I'm just about well enough to tackle this job again. I ordered the thin Bullseye 1600 degree shelve paper used  in glass work and will install between bricks and metal jacket. Not the same as fiber but still a barrier. I'm using it to get more life from the metal jacket vs insulation .Its an easy fix and cheap and easy to install when rejacketing a kiln.Should make for vapor not affecting metal as bad.

    Big beliver in 3 inch brick even for bisque temps myself aslo big fan of advancer shelves -they pay for themshelves in space and energy saved in production firing right away.

  11. Are they staying completely flat coming out out the extruder or are they slightly curved and yiou flaten them as you cut them.

    Clay has memory

    if you weight the drywall they cannot bend up or down

    if they are going sideways  between the press its because they are curved coming out of extruder is my guess.Is your die hole center in extruder? off set? need more info on that part

    how about rolling the border and and cutting them and seeing if they stay flat.

  12. I received this news about Texas talc off the market as a Laguna distributor

    They (Laguna ) is looking for another talc source now

    I have used Serralite for decades now  . It costs more. (I still have some texas talc as i only use it in one glaze) as I have never been a fan of it.

    see my pots on this here

     

  13. Natural Minerals C-98 Talc is no longer in production. They have closed their doors to external sales.

    This is the grey Texas talc that many have been using for decades , it fires white.

    Laguna Clay Company has a rationed amount for customers still.

    I'm not user myself as I use another talc that costs more.

    If you need this talc in a glaze you better stock up NOW.

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