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Mark C.

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Posts posted by Mark C.

  1. (With the direct drive electronically controlled motor of the Shimpo Whisper, when you take your foot off the pedal to stop, it stops so fast that the differential momentum between the top and bottom plates of the Grip reverses, the top plate keeps spinning slightly after the wheelhead stops, and the pads are moved slightly outward on their spiral tracks. )

    So Dick  this is only an issue when stopping  or starting it sounds like ? As the poster said he has to stop when trimming to tighten it up? That means it lossening up up while rotating I think? Something else sounds to be at play here.The lefty loosy or righty  tighty could be the issue as you pointed out

    I have demonstrated on a few whispers but never used a grip on one. I did not notice the instant stop only the quite noise  free operation and that I was able to slow the wheel down with larger forms centering  and the splash pans seemed a bit odd.

    I'm from simpler times where all my 5 wheels turn the same way and cannot go backwards-No choice for me is the best choice. Too many options theses days only adds to the confusion I feel.  Ceramics is hard enough. My orginal teacher in 1969 would not let folks throw counterclockwise  no matter how left handed they were on a kick wheel. We all seemed to master it anyways. Hey you can now buy a pink wheel or a black wheel or a turquoise color as well.

    Camo soon to follow then you will not be able to find the thing in a dark studio


  2. I have 3 giffens and never do they lossen. I have used one for 3-4 deacdes now. I think this must be all operator issues. If the grip is counter clockwise then the wheel must be counter clockwise. When the grip gets dirty they get very hard to move either direction. I take mine apart now and then and clean it and spray a small amout of silicone spray -then it slides to easy for a day or two. You can also drag your pant leg on it to keep it tight (never had to do this) I suggest reading the setup instructions again as this sounds like its not setup right. The slick washers go on the bottom under the 0-ring.Are you 100%v yoiu have the counterclockwise model?

    Brand of wheel should play NO part in this as a wheel spins as a wheel spins-no matter the brand. The grip adjusts to any size wheelhead at setup.When adjusted right you do not have to  stop and tighten 

  3. I own the same kiln only it a 1227 about 10 cubic feet whereas yours is 6.3 cubic feet.

    I wired mine up to a fire right controller which is before computer kilns came along . In my case you set the 3 switches to high and the fire right  controller has a dial which is 1-10-that is when the kiln is full on. So this morning I set it to 3 as I;'m doing a bisque today-in 3 hours that kiln will be full on.(these pots are BONE dry) The difinite purpose contactor (75 amp) clicks on and offgiving power to all elements slowly at first until three hours then it stays on. It a bit noisy at first then when on no more clicking. I love this simple system (I bought a spare on ebay 90$years ago when this control board dies)

    My model has a timer as well as a sitter and the sitter turns the kiln off and the timer is a sefty backup-today the timer is on 9 hours and the kiln will shut off in 7.5 to 8 hours

    These days for around 600-700$ you can buy a wall mount digital controller and plug the kiln it to that for all the functions-but really for just bisquing it overkill

    does your sitter have a timer dial on it? if yes then you are covered with two shut offs which is best


  4. My modified Scott Creek has a fixed pivot point and a Brent cap so its the best of both worlds. I had to weld the pins on the barrel for the cap change and make a new handle as well. Twist on cap that takes about 1 inch of twist to get on and off so its fast. I also have a straight unmodified Brent (we use a lot of extruded handles here every week). In a community studio situation I can see the sliding yoke be an issue just like in retail with the general public  where just about everything is an issue. But in a private studio we never pinch out fingers or get bonked  so that why I recommend them to private studios. The more clay (10#s a minimum ) it holds the less hassle in my view as charging  the extruder takes time. Brent now makes a new non yoke style extruder that takes out that yoke with sliding shackle design so folks can now buy that one now as well as community studios.They did the R&D on it so its solid.

    I do not know if northstar has changed their design but the early ones held hardly any clay. In fact Northstar made slab rollers with pastic gears that stripped out as well. They fixed that I'm told but I have a pet peeve about doing the R&D for company's with poor designs . Yes they are cheaper and many choose that over other factors.

    Northstar makes some very nice plastic Bats which are blue. You need to store them flat but thats not a problem . They hold up very well-recently they switched to a thicker bat as well.

  5. I had 3 bones taken out of my wright wrist in 2012-I have not wedged  any clay from a bag  of new clay since then to speak of. I bought a peter pugger (used shortly after surgery) and do wedge that output either. I can wedge but choose to do so very rarely. I work with  high fire porcealin and have not seen any issues without wedging. 

    At one time I weged the heck out of clay. These days  why bother the clay really does not need it out of the bag or pugger.

    If the clay is homogenous and air free its ready to throw in my world.

    I feel the montra of must wedge all clay is a false statement and should be questioned.

    Modern clay is air free and homogenous these days ,at one time that was not the case

     Test the the limits and see if it matters you may find it does not.

    My hands /wrists are much happier now-If I had it to do over I would have not wedged for the past 40+ years either 

  6. Crash cooling is hard on the kiln furniture. I have used a fan or two long ago to cool a kiln down-that said its best practice not to do any fast cooling.Best on the kiln,the furniture and the wares and on you. Yes you can do it but why?

    I once took the door down after turning off a cone 10 kiln-most of the wares shivered. You learn the limits which is good but there really needs to be a reason after learning them to push them again.

  7. Cone 11 fired 1/2 way is my lifes blood-If I had to choose between low or midrange I would be a midrange person. Low fire breaks much to easy . I did them all in art school (not midrange) and settled in at cone 10. I like wood and salt but my btread and butter is porcelain toughness with bright colors. They sell themselves and people love them for the durability.
    I got this from square today in fact

    Happy Face  
    Wait Time, Quality, Other, Selection, Environment, Customer Service

    Thanks mark! We appreciate your work. 
    We have 4 mugs and 4 bowls and a butter dish with lid and 4 large plates, and few other things I’m not remembering. 
    Plus all the countless gifts we’ve given to friends and family over the years. Thanks for your help, and take care!


    All my collage low fire work is broken and gone except a jug from high school on a shelve (non functional ) most likely lead glazed.I was 17 or 18 then.It reminds me how far I have come. Must be about 1 foot thick wall as well.

  8. 1 hour ago, Cheryl H said:

    How about if someone lives in a retirement community and runs a ceramic club. It is only for personal enjoyment. Would the supplies and kiln repair costs for doing this be taxable? If not how does one get a tax exempt number?

    In California  you apply thru the board of Equalization (BOE) recently renamed California Department of Tax and Fee administration  (rolls right off your tongue right)

    In Florida it will be similar -tax permit means you do not pay sales tax on some  resale items and you collect and pay tax on sales of pottery.Its a personal business permit not a club permit

    For example  I buy clay and do not pay tax but sell the clay as clay or potttery and collect tax and then pay the stae tax yearly or quarterly depending on sales volumes. reapairs do not fit into this at all.

  9. Min.

     I use this almost every week and want to thank you for the tip. I have semi retired my glass hydrometers since buying a few of these  big boy 100cc syringes. This is a faster more accurate way to get you specific gravity right. With a digital gram scale it super fast

    It sure beats wearing a 40-pound weight belt around waiting for earth to stop spinning and knowing you cannot fly away. No really it’s a time saver as well as ass a better system to see your specific Gravity. I have the weight written on the glaze room wall for reference including the syringe weight.

    Thanks now you have two accolade’s one is spar named after you and the other is this gravity deal



  10. I use a 9 inch paint roller as it only has one overlap spot on a 12 inch wide shelve.Less overlap=flatter surface

    I have no idea about why one would add 1.75% G-200 feldspar to wash-my guess is to make it stick more?

    I like this wash as one can get rid of it pretty easy and start again as it does not fuze  hard on to shelve but sticks enough so its not free in atmosphere and cuases issues in glazes. 

    I will add I run newly washed shelve thru a busque cycle with pots on them to get it stuckdown before a glaze fire-not sure if one has to but I like the idea of not having any loose material in a glaze fire .

    I also scrape the edges as soon as the shelves are washed and dry to clean them so there is no falling loose material on edge of shelve before bisquing

  11. The slower end of a glaze fire as Bill says make the glazes mature and look best so do not rush that and a slow cool at top end of fire also promotes crystal grow meaning better looking pots.

    I tend to go thru quartz slow as well and hit it hard after that (more gas pressure for I fire gas kilns more than my electric)

    I like slow end fires and my 35 cubic car kiln goes slow no matter what-so much thermo mass . My smaller 12 cubic foot updraft can fly but the glazes look best when the fire is slower .

    Speed kills in ceramics as in real life.


  12. If the pots are bisqued 1st then you can fire as fast as the pots and the kiln furniture can take it. The results will be different than a slower fire. Quartz temp is also an area that can crak think wares going to fast (I had that happen to extruded soap dishes a few fires back as they are thicker than the pots)

    It hard to get a dense packed electric to cone 6 in less than 7-9 hours. Better glazes if slow at end of fire as well

  13. I  to use (Currently I use a 100% parraffin )

    I just move the pot to bats and the wax dries before setting it down (waxing is done outside studio)

    I like Neils thought on

    (How about after you do your waxing, and before it is totally hardened, or may once it is hardened if it's still sticky enough, you sift a very thin layer of AH on the table and just 'dip' the bottom of the pot onto the alumina to get a thin layer on the foot. It's an extra step so that may mot be a good solution, but it would do the job.)

    There are a few seconds that this would work.

    I'm not sure why you are sponging the wax on bottoms?Whats this step  for?

    the trick with the shelve kln wash is super thin coat. then the spot that lifts off in so an elevation problem and you can touch it up if you need to


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