Mark C.
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Posts posted by Mark C.
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quit using crimp connectors and get the better clamp ones from Euclids-If you had the clamps you only need a short wire to get it to clamp. I have extra insulators so I would grind one down on my bench grinder and that would expose enough pitail to clean and clamp and on with the show. Creative fix is needed.
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I think a wire brush is to mellow. Thats a lot of corrosion and it will get in the clay unless its removed. These come up for sale now and then as well. Never seen one in this bad of shape
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Take it to a shop that can sandblast it then a fab welding shop to get that part done
Nunca must have a few shops like that
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Do not worry about making more holes -Those can all be patched
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I would sand blast it for sure to get down to clean metal. You can weld (have a shop do this) a patch on any hole spot from the outside or inside and grind smooth all the inner welds(take the auger out,fully taking the unit apart). You cannot have holes in any opart of the barrel
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Composite?
John whats your guess on that material ?
I have only seen aluminum heads
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I have had Brent wheels sit for a decade with zero issues on start up. Electrics same deal-I life ina mosit rainforest for winters but no summer humidity
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sorry to hear you are out of clay making
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Drilling is the very very last resort-the PB blaster soaking for days then varouis mechanical tools would be my go to. Never had that fail ,heat before drilling for sure as well
drilling will screw up the threads so that means retaping to the next larger size. patience is whats needed here and I have little myselg except when it comes to the se situations .
The easy outs are the ticket as Hulk posted above -. Drill only the center-then soak it for a day or two then use the easy our-You tube this to see how if you do not have experience with tham
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(I fired the kiln up to about 2100 F by having my gas pressure as high as it would go with no standing flame from the vent)
You say you are adjusting gas presure-is this with the meter regulator?
after that you say you turn it up-I'm confused its already on max? you said
Or a presure regulator somewhere else?
Or is this just the single valve to kiln? and its full on
In terms of reduction that small flame out top does not mean the whole kiln is reducing. I can get a flame out of my 12 cubic upodraft with hardly any reduction in middle or bottom. To get that I need the damper in some.
The damper need to be part of the cycle.
The only way to keep the bottom from overfiring is to use a damper
It sounds like you are still just barley getting enough gas down that long 3/4 inch gas line. Can you adjust your meter presure with a manometer ?do you know how to do that?This is a 1/4 pound presure (7inchs on a monometer right)
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When that 50k-ohm rotary potentiometer you may be able to source another one on Brandons site in above posts. The mounting may be different. Mine lasted about 10 years in professional use.
The plasic can become brittle as well.If you don't mind what did you pay for this wheel?
I bought and sold one just like this about 10 years ago-was working fine
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Here is what an older potentiometer looks like (all white unit) .The whole unit these days is all Black plastic
Brandon covered all this well and then older units do get brittle and like this one in photo is cracked but can be epoxied to get more life from it.
You need to be handy a bit to repair unit or replace the potentiometer
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Whatever you do do not powder coast it inside as it will all chip out into the clay.
Yes on the de-rust paint OUTSIDE ONLY. Yes on the sandblast.
If the barrel is aluminum it can be be welded at a shop if its steel its ever easier to weld
This pug mill looks like a beater so pay very little for it. It pre vacuum I assume which means you still need to wedge the air bubbles out so plan on that
They make nicer units and I have seen many a bluebird with the vacuum feature for sale used as well.
This unit is pretty far gone and will take some big work to get it cleaned up -hopefully it's free to start with
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The belts are small single V belts as I mentioned and that will last a lifetime-I mentione this in above pots
This wheel NEVER had a belt guard underneath most likely.
I do not see any trim pots in your post on Feb 17th
The trim controls for wheel are in the bottom of foot pedal not on the control board-it has no adjustments for anthing take the bottom cover off foot pedal-you will see a red and blue wheel that takes a straight blade screwdriver one is high end one is low end. They work together to fine tune them
The two holes in deck someone drilled to attach a splash pan is my guess and use silicone to fill them as they will allow water to get under deck and be a rust issue
Just for you info Brent never made a model B in the early days-see the brochure at top of this post for all the early models.Your 1/2 HP motor means it was a model C . I have that same wheel only an earlier model that does not have the plastic deck but a formica flat top with no ridges around perimeter. Model Bs which came later all had 1/3 HP motors as they are today
No one left at Brent knows this stuff anymore i feel-all the old timers are long gone I think.
That foot pedal is one of the early models and Brent has no parts for them. They do wear out over time so baby it if you can. You can buy a cheaper potentiometer here and fabracate it into this pedal here . Your potentiometer is white as all the early ones where white and now they are all black.
When your contol board stops working the oldest control board brent sells will work fine for you but you will need a larger control box to fit it into.
These early boards fit into a shallow steel electrical box and used toggle switches not rocker as you noted.You can buy rockers for cheap when that control board stops working later.You may get lots of years still on that board or not its a unknown. I keep a spare board in stock in studio but I have 5 wheels adn like to keep tham all working well.
This is down the road for you as I have been there and done that long ago in terms of the larger plastic control box and new controls and reaplacing the foot pedal as well with the newer style.
I have a spare foot pedal that was just sent to me from a person on this board who replaced theirs if you need one in the future.
Let me know if you need any other info just PM me
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The wheels sell well-I would ask 1/3 off new as a starting point-quality wheels really went up in price so find out what anew one costs to start with
The kiln well its all depends on condition-same deal-harder to sell than a both your other items due to size
Slab roller is a easy sale as they are hard to find used-very hard really
- Pres and Joseph Fireborn
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I use and own all kinds of brushes in the ceramics studio .Some I had as a Art major in collage (oil /water color and ceramics use) .I'll never use them all up in my life as i collected way to many to over the decades. I had a brother who bought a bunch from Japan in the 70s for me and a mother who went to china in the 80s and brought back a bunch for me. Since then I have amassed way to many on top of those I already had. I was also given a few boxes of the flat wide ones that are white hair wooden japanese one. She had a case of them.Then somewhere in the 80s I started to make my own. Well now maybe its time to think about letting some go. I did sell a bunch of pottery tools on one of the pottery facebook sites last year when cleaning out a studio area. Time to do more of that.Doing that with camera gear now as its a winter downsizing I do every year.
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instead of me addding to the how to ,I suggest this kiln conversion site as its all covered here by many
Its the kiln conversion facebook group just about these type of kilns
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I forgot to add use cones all over to see whats going on. I suggest going slow and not using to much gas. You need a digital pyrometer to make sure you are climbing when it stalls if it stalls adjust the damper 1st ,If this fail and you have a piece of metal (lightweight ) pipe add it to lid to increase draft as noted in above posts or use a few soft bricks to do the same deal with damper on top. Try not to over gas it (meaning more gas is better as this is often not the case.
Since your burners like mine are fixed you only have the gas to turn up or down and the damper. My updraft is exactly like this with those only two functions. A little damper in makes it climb slowly
Now if all this fails I would like to know how much more gas you have meaning whats left on the valve 1/4 turn or less ( FULL PORT ball valve only)
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The slow blow fuse is in all Brent wheels and you can get one at a good electronics supply store or online
The deck issue is this (I own the same wheel and deck exactly) the new under deck that Brent sells will work maybe only with major modifications . I think a easier better solution is make your own with thin plywood to protect cat tails maybe 3/16 Liaun plywood with reinforced corners stabled and glued the screw it to inside frame with prefilled holes on inside,if you buy a Brent one it may not fit at all and to make it fit you will have to cut it and modify it at the very least call them to see if they have done this before. I have 5 Brent’s and my old model c is not protected by the newer style pan as I do not let cats in studio.
as to your belts they are neither what you described but two single individual belts and Brent did sell them so call and ask about them as well even if they are not on the website. I may know of a pair but it’s a long shot . Contact me if Brent has none ,these belts last forever did this she’ll have none when you got it?I replaced my wheel head on my model c long ago and it comes with a larger 3/4 shaft which uses the newer Brent belts and I also had to get a new motor pulley the that matched the new belt grooves. That all costs a bunch of money from Brent for this upgrade. The next big cost is replacing the old style foot pedal thar came with this wheel what does your foot pedal look like?. As this will aid me in determining what you have.
now that the frame is stripped consider derusting the undersides and painting it if you are going to restore it
mark
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As I said I have burners like yours on asmall updraft. They are a little different but non adjustable all the same. Just make sure you have a good volume of gas to supply them . Pipe is large enough all the way from meter.With monimal restrictions.
Yes put a shelve on top of load under the lid and use staggered shelve is possible on split levels. Uss a damper -you choice of material
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Seems like a great deal for someone close by
. I own the 30 inch electric with the long table and they are great machines.
I also changed out that safety twoi handed switch to a foot pedal on off. I hated that two handed safety switch as a single user in my studio .
Gold Luster
in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
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Luster needs the same temp every time .(so as noted above ,cone 019 is that temp no matter what) Refiring can be improve or not-it just that way-try and see.