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Mark C.

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Posts posted by Mark C.

  1. For many years all thru the 70s Brent had no belt guards does your shaft under the wheel head have a flange? That is for a Brent splashpan to clip into.  If it has no flange then it’s flat deck (no lip around edge) most likely and is from the early 70s

    can you post a photo of the front of controller (on off switch)

  2. No details on what temp or firing meduim this will be -electric-wood -soda-reduction? to cone 08-cone 6 or cone 11?

    I suggest a cheap fiber kiln made for the piece and firied locally on your location on the spot .

    In terms of large  kilns -Lincoln Ca ,has theFeats of Clay in a large sewer pipe factory with huge kilns-

    I think You tube has some videos on this.

  3. At cone 10 standard thermocouples can vary my cone 11  at half way bent glaze today was 2340 . Next time it could read 2290. They also age quickly and readings vary. I have been firing every week lately and a trend occurs at times and I only trust cones never the thermocouple reading

  4. I suggest a # 6 wire with a 60amp breaker so that with handle all future needs-most kilns use 48 amps (need 25% over on  wire and breaker for safety) so the 60 amp works well.

    cost of labor will be the same-the wire a bit more.Use copper wire

  5. S are more accurate as noted above 2000 and have much longer life in a protection tube. My guess is the drift is also less. I do know my platinum wire reduction/temp probe is rock solid on temps aboove 2000.

    My firend who did cystaline  at cone 10 has  in an electric masde for it had 3-  S type TCs  in a three zone setup. Thats the cats meow if you ask me. Of course they cost more on the upfront end and seem to always be like mini thermos so easy to break.

  6. On my flat fish wall art -I use JB weld epoxy to cement  two ceramic pieces that have a small hole thru them and are flat on one side and rough for glue to grip. After drying I string them with stainless wire which will not rust. I do know that if hung in direct sun (gets very hot) some epoxies can loosen so testing is in order.

    I like the weather proof no rot or freeze to this solution. No wood to sour up. For indoors wood is fine.My fish go in and outside so I need to cover those bases.

  7. I'm heading the other way-still subscribe to CM since the early 70s although at times I wonder why-

    dropped pottery making as it aims more for beginners and I got little from it.I donated all my issues to a local fire arts center

    These days it more technical reading for me-Kilns and materials-glazes-high fire reduction and salt

    less about technique these days for me

    I am no longer expanding library and will down size it in next year or two.

     

     

  8. Spring sales are still way up and all outlets are selling more than usual . I finally have some backstock in mugs. I'm a bit worried that since my local outlets are doing so well and tourist season is just now getting under way gathering enough stock for a summer show will be harder than usual . My slow down plans for now are out the window.

    Our tourist season is perdicted to be over the top this year and its starting now.

    Get your wares into an outlet as the consumer is consuming in a big way now. 

    One of my outlets was up 20% last year.

  9. The part about crazing is some is below the surface (smooth surface) and some is on top of surface (rough surface) . Only you can telll what yours is . If its smooth than teh decal will float on very well and smooth out fine-if the cracks are on the surface than I would not do decals on that surface. 

    In terms of Temps-whatever the company says fireto their recomendations as they know what those colorants need to fuze well. I was specking in general decal terms which for me was cone 017 when I did lots of decal work in the 70s

  10. I agree that seems hot for decals-usually they are at cone 017 or 018

    Now for the bubbles -use a plastic credit card or  and work from the center out in all directions or your small rubber squeegey

    paper towels are not the right tool. If they have bubbles add water and try again

    And as Bill says make sure they are clean. The crazing if its on the tile before adding decals can make for a non smooth surface and will make adding decals very hard as they need smooth glossy surface to work.

    air bubbles can be seen when dry (use a magnifier) so do not fire them until the bubbles are gone

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