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Mark C.

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Posts posted by Mark C.

  1. Ok something is going on this days  in a big way

    Lumber prices up 300%

    gasoline up a bunch as well as all things grocery

    I raised my prices last fall as well 

    That said the orders are rolling in like I have never seen before and thats saying something.

    Looks like the public is buying up whatever ceramics they can get.

    Get your item out there anyway you can . I think this is a coast to coast deal.

    Summer is on and it looks to be a strong sales one for sure.

  2. 3 hours ago, theothercandice said:

    Hi! 

    First time poster, long time lurker. Thank you so much for @GEP for organizing the FAQ so I can find this helpful thread.

    I just have some more follow up questions. I'm doing my first wholesale order with a shop and I feel really nervous about it. I tried to research on youtube and in this forum, and here are some assumptions that I'd like some insight in. 

    Step 1: Retailer/Gallery/Someone reaches out  (or vice versa). Then you provide a catalogue/linesheet. 

    I give them a list of forms to order from-my list

    Step 2: They put in an order form/You give them an order form to fill up

    Yes-they e-mail it back to me.

    Step 3: Payment: This is the part where I'm unsure. It seems like there are ways to go about it. (I realize I can send an invoice in paypal to the seller) 
         Option 1: 20-30% deposit at the time of order, remaining balance due before shipping
         Option 2: 50% deposit at the time of order, remaining balance due before shipping
         Option 3: 100% before shipping
         Option 4: I keep hearing about net 30/60. But I dont really know what that means. 

    First time order-paid in full-always

    next order (second order) 30 days

    Step 3.5: Paper Logistics: Do I charge for tax? Do they pay tax on their end? My seller gave me a sheet with her EIN. Is there something I need to do with this? Do I need an EIN??

    No you do not charge tax they collect and pay the tax-its wholesale-not retail

    Your EIN numberr is your federal tax number-goggle it .Apply for one and get it you may need it in future as I have used it for other things in the past. I never use mine on wholesale or theirs as long as you report this income on your tax return.I do lots of wholesale and never use those numbers.If ask for it you then have one.

    Step 4: Make the order!

    Make extras-things go wrong

    Step 5: Shipping and Delivery. I've read somewhere that the buyer pays for the shipping. In some cases, the buyer and you split the cost of shipping. How do you estimate for the delivery price? 

    Buyer usually pays-I have split it if I drive it far-local drops are free-If you pay for paid shipping they pay that amount-I had a shop once where I split the shipping buts thats rare.

    Pack it well and insure it.This is a skill set in itself 

    Step 6: What common mishaps have you experienced and what are good practices/terms you've given to protect yourself?

    Write up a contract-covering breakage-how long lead time you need-payment details act-this is very important so be thorough

    on the first order get the payment up front-this is where you can get taken.It happened to mein the 8os.


    I read somewhere that one potter doesnt give buys option for buybacks and returns (unless they've made an error or something broke) since its wholesale and its equal risk. 

    For wholesale no  buybacks or returns is common.

    Thank you so much for taking the time to read this! 

     

     

  3. Working on huge simi annual gallery wholesale order now and it up over last years order same period. Local shops are selling more volume still .I'm a bit worried aboiut getting enough wares for a show on top of local sales . Never been like this with demand way up. Only one shop is down  this year and they are still closed 3 days a week and only open 11-4 the other 4 days.

  4. Any advice on how to become more educated in those areas that isn't insanely boring?)

    In ceramics many things are not just throwing and making-the technical issues will bite you in the butt but for some they are not as fun as the making.If you ignore them then you will not be bored becuse you be to involved in grinding kiln sheves from runny glazes or breaking your pots because they weep water and are not suitable for use .Ceramics is pretty technical in some areas-You will need to know some boring items to master itothewre wise it will be a disaster.

    Many here will help  you with the mastering it goal .

  5. I use the sun to dry 99% of all thrown pottery when I can. Mugs go out in sun and come off the plaster bats as soon as they are raedy and taken inside to handle for example. Bowls dry outside until they can be trimmed-usually it takes place in same day-work in am trim in pm

    I spin the pots to the other side if the sun is hot to make sure that dry evenly .

    The sun is a potters friend.

  6. I make ceramic fish some have a curve to them others are flat-since your plaques sound flat they are like my flat fish.

    In the curfed fish i add a  piece of wet clay when the fish clay is also wet and poke a small hole in it. Later after the cone 10 fire I string stainless wire so its good outside and inside.

    On the flat fish I pinch a small bunch of clay that is flat on one side and prudes slightly and put a small hole thru it. I use JB weld epoxy to glue these to the fish backs and later thread the holes with stainless wire. The epoxy grips clay way better than wire (or D rings) the only drawback is this epoxy can let go when really hot in sun. I think west systems two part epoxy for marine use is another option-its spendy but I use it on m,y boats. another option than I have here but is untested is marine JB weld which you can order online at amazon. Hardwares stores carry regular JB in regular (a bit runny) or fast set  a bit thicker.As I said heat can release it but indoor use would work well. I did test this epoxy on a glase to clay fired pieces and it tore the glaze off the pot and the bond held.

    I world real world test your product before selling it to consumers first.

    The other suggestion is make a new mold that has the hole for wire in the plaque or make an add on piece-it sounds like the hanging is not thought out yet . All you need is small hole for a wire (hangs flat on wall)

  7. I would first Call  Amaco/Brent  technical

    ask them-the controller and motor are wired for 220 and you wnat to know how to convert it to 110v

    Other thoughts are most homes have 220 you could wire an outlet just for this wheel

    you could buy an quality step up transformer 110-220v

    The best option is call Brent and ask how to make it run on 110V

  8. Not salt pots for sure

    Just add some colbalt carb to a little water  mix it up in air tight container. Use a brush to apply

    This is cone 10 porcelain with a clear glaze over on these baby bowls I made for family members and friends (I do not do this for the public )

    Cobalt is hard to remove so be carefull applying .Use a small brush witha good tip. I turn the bowls on a wheel at slow speed to band them

    .

    IMG_3351.jpeg.f6fc64c12768c957e792afcf76b0e3fc.jpegIMG_3350.jpeg.8e8474825898195192c6ea3770730c16.jpeg

  9. You either do the absorption test to see what your clay is doing (on the test bars)-but knowing that you are shortening the element life. I as Neil said just drive the 3 hours and get the right clay

    Using cone 10 clay at cone 8 is not a good idea . The absorbtion test will tell the whole story-except the shortened life of elements

     

    One note in ceramics a 10,000 things can go wrong (and you will find some do no matter what)and you are starting out with a few of them right off the bat. This can be issues with glaze and body issues righ tout of the gate. Take the drive and start right. The savings is not worth it my mind.

  10. ITC also made an element coating in fact I think regular ITC is ok on elements-but I would not bet on it as my memory is a bit fuzzy on that.They did make a special element coating for sure at ITC.Back in the day I bought  amny many gallons of that stuff.

    The whole deal went sideways for me when Fritz sold it after his wife passed away. The price tripled and the product variety went away

  11. For me electric kiln firing was a stepping stone in my progression. I leaned to use them  and bought one in collage (used) and have always had one around working in some form. Out of school I used to bisque in mine now and again and would do luster and decal fires in one. I made my own beer bottle labels for a spell and fired them on in my electric as a 20 something . When I was starting I wanted to leartn about all kilns and electrics wherte in the mix. Now in my area electricity is very high price and tahst be a constant here a swell for my life.

    But the heart of ceramics in the long run and what keeps me today in ceramics is the unknown or the  reveal if you will. In electric firing the results are (or where back then at least) very dependable.This was cone 06 back in my day not cone 6. I never heard of cone 6 in the 70s. Cone 6 was and is a temp I go thru to get somewhere else.The unknown is the results of glazes in reduction fires and the challage to make them spectacular. Thats the hook that got me and the same is true with my salt kiln. I like working with glazes and those on the edge are the best when they work. This unknown factor has kept me in production all these years. I love the unknown about every glaze fire -no knowing that all my effort is paying off or crap its a disaster (which by the way was a small kiln load last friday I overfired ) lost 1./3 of it but man the keepers are over the top. Now I;m a glaze and fire potter-thats the thrill not the making.

    Sure I did raku,pit and wood firings as well as salt in school but reduction hooked me in the long run and I could build the kilns at home which I did during school as well.

    Sure the making is fine but I like the glazing and firing better. I feel the electric is more like paint -you open the jar and thats that-now I know since cone 6 and making your own glazes (I mentored a few in this field) its more an unknown now but back in the day it was not. So I have put a few pieces in a friends cone 10 electric oxidation (he got the super duper high fire crystalline model to do that) and they looked like stock colors to me. I feel the electric is more easy to use and for sure to get permitted especailly these days. For me its gas reduction or die and its carried me for 45 years now. I'm sure if it was only my electric back then I'd be an electrician or Plumber full time now instead of a potter. I like the challage of the fire and in an electric you progarm it and once you find it thats that .Each and every fire for me is an unknown to some degree-thats the past I live for.

  12. It will add a bit of protection to electric kiln soft bricks. The one I sprayed I sold before much firing so its a toss up. I think 3 protection tubes are a better investment.

    If you do use it on soft bricks a few things  to do first spray the soft brick with a mist of water first and only apply a very very thin coat so it does not get heavy and spall off the brick. This is best practice . If you fire constantly it may be worth it. It does add bit of strength to soft  brick surface-keep it thin and wet the bricks 1st.

  13. Tell me more about what you plan on coating? Hard Brick? soft Brick? How hot are you firing to?

    I have coated electric kilns-salt kilns ,reduction cone 10 kilns soft brick ,hard brick.kiln shelves. advancers,dry pressed high alumina shelves ,mullite shelves.

    I need a bit more info. ITC has gone to the moon price wise .

    I can address the pros and cons but need to know ,more on what your are thinking of coating and how hot you fire

  14. We hot wax in a large electric pan (I posted a  thread  on this old brand found on ebay once here  that is teflon coated and super wide) I think you are to hot. It should never smoke . I use paraffin -buy it by the case and as oldlady said have used thrift shop candle wax as well. I use so much the case thing works well. I always have a spare case at ready-like i said we go thru the stuff. Any pot with a trimmed foot I use the other liquid wax I have written about here a lot. I can sponge the feet very fast with that turning in my hands in a few quick motions. That wax is a little slower drying and likes to stick to paper. 

    I have a few of these new in box box for cheap  as backups-we kill one every 5-10 yaers or so from use (Dazey Round-a-bout Plus Electric Skillet Wok)

    We can wax up many many  hundreds of flat bottom forms very fast every two weeks-I like about 1/4 inch in bottom and pan is tilted a little so I roll the form to a small degree to get the same coverage

    Since the waxer is just outside studio door the dry time depends on the weather-but as a general statement it dries really fast. You can dip and put the pot down in seconds without the wax sticking to a surface

    I have zero soy was experience . I think I'll keep using the wax I know as it works so well.I do use alot of soy/low salt  in the kitchen if that helps-we like Kikkoman

     

     

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