Jump to content

Mark C.

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. I use a glaze eraser to rub finished bottoms of finished pots(sold thru kilnshelve.com ) . As well as a rubbing stone (white fine grit 2x3 stone) sold thru most ceramic outlets
  2. You have to do the absorbsion test to anything about the end results. Underfired leaking clay is good for nobody no matter what the cost.
  3. You either do the absorption test to see what your clay is doing (on the test bars)-but knowing that you are shortening the element life. I as Neil said just drive the 3 hours and get the right clay Using cone 10 clay at cone 8 is not a good idea . The absorbtion test will tell the whole story-except the shortened life of elements One note in ceramics a 10,000 things can go wrong (and you will find some do no matter what)and you are starting out with a few of them right off the bat. This can be issues with glaze and body issues righ tout of the gate. Take the drive and start r
  4. ITC also made an element coating in fact I think regular ITC is ok on elements-but I would not bet on it as my memory is a bit fuzzy on that.They did make a special element coating for sure at ITC.Back in the day I bought amny many gallons of that stuff. The whole deal went sideways for me when Fritz sold it after his wife passed away. The price tripled and the product variety went away
  5. For me electric kiln firing was a stepping stone in my progression. I leaned to use them and bought one in collage (used) and have always had one around working in some form. Out of school I used to bisque in mine now and again and would do luster and decal fires in one. I made my own beer bottle labels for a spell and fired them on in my electric as a 20 something . When I was starting I wanted to leartn about all kilns and electrics wherte in the mix. Now in my area electricity is very high price and tahst be a constant here a swell for my life. But the heart of ceramics in the long ru
  6. It will add a bit of protection to electric kiln soft bricks. The one I sprayed I sold before much firing so its a toss up. I think 3 protection tubes are a better investment. If you do use it on soft bricks a few things to do first spray the soft brick with a mist of water first and only apply a very very thin coat so it does not get heavy and spall off the brick. This is best practice . If you fire constantly it may be worth it. It does add bit of strength to soft brick surface-keep it thin and wet the bricks 1st.
  7. Tell me more about what you plan on coating? Hard Brick? soft Brick? How hot are you firing to? I have coated electric kilns-salt kilns ,reduction cone 10 kilns soft brick ,hard brick.kiln shelves. advancers,dry pressed high alumina shelves ,mullite shelves. I need a bit more info. ITC has gone to the moon price wise . I can address the pros and cons but need to know ,more on what your are thinking of coating and how hot you fire
  8. We hot wax in a large electric pan (I posted a thread on this old brand found on ebay once here that is teflon coated and super wide) I think you are to hot. It should never smoke . I use paraffin -buy it by the case and as oldlady said have used thrift shop candle wax as well. I use so much the case thing works well. I always have a spare case at ready-like i said we go thru the stuff. Any pot with a trimmed foot I use the other liquid wax I have written about here a lot. I can sponge the feet very fast with that turning in my hands in a few quick motions. That wax is a little slower dryin
  9. I'm a production potter down to only-8 tons of clay a year now as I slow down (My questions: What is the difference between production potter and hobby potter? Is there a definition? If you are a production potter do you still get to play around with things that intrigue you?) Its not a grey area-I make pots to sell and that is most of the focus. I am not keeping them or attached to them-they are pigs going to market if you will. Yes I care about them and want them to be the best they can be but they will be somebodys baby not mine . Yes I still play around but not on producti
  10. Since its alreadt established-why not just add a shopping cart and go from there -weebly and all the major servers have this as an option these days. Not much to think about really if its already an established business-They just need to start telling their customers about the e-part
  11. I have friends who sell pots thru Etsy and they said last week that the platform is Not what it used to be sales wise. That market has been diffused they said. If you go it alone with your own CC I would expect 5-7% in fees thru a processor . Thats all I have on advice as I'm not a web sales guy-I only sell to existing customers mostly wilh my web page which is not a sales site.
  12. MMR I have felt this way about it as you said (The composition of the atmosphere inside a cylinder is likely to be somewhat different than the more open and connected volumes. movement of atmosphere in a combustion kiln is different in many ways from the atmosphere in an electric kiln. Composition for one; constant movement another. ) That this is more the root cause of inner pinholes say in a mug just down inside the cup near the lip-thats where I see this in reduction fires. I have a very standard application of liner glazes using a glaze jet for 99% of liners. The applic
  13. I have handled to much drywall to want to help. I like simi smooth wall. After taping and sanding then sealing with drywall sealer I like to roll a thicker than cream mud nap super light texture with a 3/8 nap roller then paint. On the cup inside pinhole topic 99% of pinhole for me is the insides of any form from cups to bowls-the lack of atmosphere as well as temps are the causes I had felt. Now I'm firing in reduction but it does not matter as lack of oxygen or atmosphere difference is what causes this and temp can play a part as well. It very complex and longer firing can help or more
  14. In my mind that space is already full of clay stuff-congrats
  15. High purity iron oxides are sold thru most outlets laguna/axner-https://www.axner.com/ironoxide-red.aspx US pigments-https://uspigment.com/product/iron-oxide-red-high-purity/ I have used both with same results-I use it in same amounts Since I'm a laguna person I use them the most. I have a 50# bag of each including the old standy spanish red Iron Oxide which I still use in other iron glazes
  16. When I started out with consignment shops in the 70s I had the same situtaions that you have all written about. It took some time to find the few shops that sales and payment and stocking all worked well and trust built up. I found one in 1973 and am still there thru 4 owners but now I wholesale to them. I only have two consignment shops left and one is struggling a bit in the pandemic the other is booming. Its all because of the owners in each case and how thay run the business. It takes a long time to get all this right for us potters to find the right shop that works for both parties.
  17. There have been few extruders on potters attic or the southern equipment facebook site or the other ceramic facebook site in past 6 months. slab rollers not so much
  18. If you have to use glues use epoxy -JB weld works very well-the slow set is the strongest-its a bit runny until it sets up. I have had it tear the galze off the surface of a high fire pots when testing the bond strength .Apply and cure in warm temps
  19. There is no easy in ceramics is my view no matter what cone temps That said the glaze from a CM article in past decade Iron Cristaline glaze cone 11-12 synthetic bone ask tri-Calcium Phosphate 12% Talc----I use Sierra lite- 9% Whiting 9% custar feldspar 48% EPK 6% silica 325 mesh
  20. (Not many of us firing cone 10 anymore I think.) On this forum its 99% cone 6 but thats not refective of what I see in my area of the world (western state shows) I will add out local JC just switched to a all cone 6 program as they had to move the pottery shop to a new building (standar class room) and lost their Tech funding and it was easier for one instructor to fire electric with store bought glazes than mix all the glazes and fire a gas kiln-this switch was done for ease of use for 1 instructor . It was a bit of a shame as the local high school has a cone 10 program and that JC
  21. Ok in another thread bone ash was brought up -that was all about Oribe glaze Todays update after mixing glazes this am for me is all about bone ash So on that synthetic bone ash I just finished a full 50# bag of it today (this bag was a gif to me )as I use it only in my red/black (high Iron) saturate glaze also I use synthetic red iron only in this glaze. I have another 50# bag ready to go. The cost of this has really gone up lately. I used up 50#s in less than a decade in only one glaze -my Red-Black cone 10 glaze I still use my natural bone ash in any other glazes like Or
  22. My electric (bisque only) is a full on bottom and up on some smaller broken kiln shelve pieces at the stacking points .That space is 1/2 inch off floor. Its about 10 cubic feet. I only use 1/2 shelves from there up-I do have a full shelve if needed I just do do not use it ever. its a manuel kiln with a fire rite auto turn up switch that ramps it up automatically .Timer and cone sitter for shut down The kiln is outside and has no vent system-Its not fired more than 6-8 times a year -I tumble stack the top of it usually-really stuff it full. Most bisques are in my 35 cubic
  23. (those who are happy with the Gleko unit are low water users.) I think this is very true. Go with a better pump out system taking the water into an outside setting tub then its a non issue. A cheap plastic laundry sink could work great. PS I am on a septic system
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.