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Mark C.

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Everything posted by Mark C.

  1. This is your easy out answer (but I was using a porcelain previously with some of these glazes and had significantly fewer problems )
  2. Yes brown clay will make any rutile glaze have even more issues with outgassing bubbles-good call Min
  3. I also use an electric hot water kettle for hot water.Works fast and is plent volume wise for throwing
  4. ( I think around 1400f, I'll have to check) Yes about dull red heat. I use a long stainless metal 1/4 cup in a piece of rebar to fume the salt kiln.
  5. The glaze is looking to thick especially in bottoms which will worsen the issue. Rutile gazes never are easy or that dependable . The best you can do is make sure you hit all the points .
  6. Just finishing tax prep for the tax account and waiting for a few 199s from investments I still have a few large 4th quarter payments that are owed me from a few stores-and I'm thankful, they count in 2021 income as everything in past January is next years income. Looks like sales believe it or not where near the same as last year-maybe about 5% lower overall(if I counted the 4th quarter payments owed still I'm up in sales about 10%). Thats with only one show (my xmas private show I do outside in town past 40 years) All my other shows where cancelled. What saved me was a hu
  7. Tom (a blister with a raised rim) I call them innies and outies the innies sometimes you can live with as they fall back on themselves-the outies never as they are sharp Since I use about 400-500#s a year of rutile dry glaze I see my share of this stuff
  8. yes stannous chloride fuming can be very dangerous practice . I have done it in salt firing a few times on the cool down. I leaned it in collage of all places now its not taught I'm sure to many permits and red tape. Nowdays folks are worried about iron in clay? You need a good respirator. Often a green cloud comes out the stack and settles to the ground like a sci fi movie.I have some stannous still for this use. The results can be wonderfull to cloudy dull wares. When I pass my shop will be a super fund site.As I have all the old good stuff.
  9. Euclids makes and sell everything you need as well from elements to sitter parts
  10. I have used metal wide paint scrapers for years-maybe 45 on my wheel heads -scratches are fine.
  11. I have had good luck with needle nose pliers hanging on to element side of elements and grinding off the crimp carefully with a 4 inch grinder not grinding the element pigtail than prying it off-cut the wires off 1st and get the boxes away as well. Then forget the crimps and strip back to good clean feeder wire and use these https://euclids.com/collections/connectors-lead-outs/products/element-connector-1-screw-hd I just ordered a bunch of them-make sure the screw hits the wire on top as well when you tighten them down hard.Crimp connectors are just cheap and a pain. Thi
  12. This is not an issue -there will be issues much bigger in the future.Thats the nature of ceramics . Throw more on it and that will keep it shiny
  13. ah the elusive Rutile glaze (Glazes high in rutile can be problematic for pinholes and blisters.) well thats almost an understatement .
  14. what cone was it fired to? a photo would really help
  15. I bought another Peter pugger to help with clay body mixing (two bodies mixed together ). I also just had a APL suspensionplasty with biotenodesis screw in left thumb. in laymans terms they cut out my trapezium bone out of thumb and use part of a thumb tendon to suspend the thumb over that hole. My surgeon did 3 techniques on my thumb to strengthen it.this was lastTuesday-i'm off of painkillers now and have a brace for two weeks then a cast for 4 weeks then rehab for 4-5 months . my thumb will have to be taught to work again as its immobile now. the other fingers are sticking out and i ha
  16. my grit size on bench grinder (green stone) is 60 grit if i recall-the more the better for removing glaze i acutally have two bench grinders one has tool rest and guards in place for sharpening tools one is a brass wire wheel for rough clay bottom smoothing (our white slab body) the other is for taking off glaze . i also have a 4 inch makita with masonary at kiln for shelve work also i have two Dremel tools at kiln as well.
  17. I took my boxes off last year and wire wheeled all the paint off and then treated the metal with ospho deruster then painted with high heat paint you cab do the same with any rusted metal. That kiln need a lid support to hold it open by the way skutt sells them. You only need the flat rod as the rest is there
  18. I got a rash of email orders this past week put them on hold due to hand surgery. Keeping my stock for outlets now not orders
  19. I’m old school. I use diamond wheels and two dremel s with green stones as well as diamond bits and a 8 inch green stone on a bench grinder with all guards removed I should add I have lots of years at this to be safe use a face shield for max protection The green stones work best on glaze and clay vs the grey silicon carbide ones. They are bit harder to find
  20. Massive jigger operation boring as heck for me but I live and die on the hand thrown wheel. That is huge operation and the pots are really thick
  21. The 1st two photos appear to be in the main clay body not the slip layer-the middle photo shot is a classic non compression crack in bottom.I think the photos 1 &2 are clay body compression issues The last shot maybe a slip issue as it looks like it jumped off at some point
  22. I to think the wheelhead is perfect. You do not need a new wheel head. If your speed is up and down and you have adjusted the foot pedal without fixing that. (You said it would not stop) which is 99% the foot pedal control usually. Then its the controller. That is the only thing that can change speeds without touching anything as noted in above post.Its a simple change out part.
  23. Pack it carefully and hope for the best. Treat the boxes well as you move them. Buy more warm cloths before you move as it colder than Ca. there by x10
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