Jump to content

Mark C.

Members
  • Posts

    10,852
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Mark C.

  1. No matter if I'm mixing a glaze from scratch or mixing up a wet 5 gallon bucket or a 30 gallon bucket-I aways use a 1/2 inch drill with a large jiffy mixer in drill (smaller cordless drill and jiffy mixers for smaller containers ) I have two cordless with smaller jiffy heads on them in glaze room as well as the larger 30 inch shaft large head jiffy. All the drills are dedicated glaze room drills and ready to go when needed.

    I mix up the glaze and either use my hand or weigh it in syringe or just look at it with a stick (I have a stick in each bucket after mixing glazes to stir during the glaze day.-I do all 15 buckets every glaze day (I mix the needed glazes the day before glaze day so they are ready)

    I make sure all glaze is off the bottom with jiffy mixer before checking SG with hand or looking or measuring.

    same routine past 4 deacades works for me

    The power jiffy head and drill  mixer gets the job done better than a wisk or a toilet brush or your kitchenaid mixeror a stick alone.

  2. Just sent out billing for second quarter to two outlets-sales where over the top.

    4th of July coming up and no local fair again this year . Of course after Last year I decieded to drop our local 4th show anyway-I had done every 4th of July show since 1973-thru 2019

    that was enough of them-one day shows are harder with setups and tear downs

  3. In terms of production from  late April early May to October 15th I dry most pots outside same day made. Thrown and put in sun,fog or anything but drizzel or rain. Trim and handle same day. If its really cool and foggy and wet I'll dry them in shop with natural gas heater on. The rest of the time its up  high in shop with heat on- throw trim as soon as they are ready usually same day no matter how hot it gets creature comfort is of no concern-pots are the focus not my comfort.

    I like  to dry outside so shop stays cool but if needed it can be warm in a few minutes. Pots dictate whats needed.

    We can throw handle and fire mugs same day if weather is warm and sunny. I do it a few times each year -last week was one of those times. You can do things that are outside previous limits if you get it right.Things like cearl bowls all day long throw trim and fire-handle forms take special care to fire same day-in an ele3ctric its easy the gas kiln is harder and I bisque in gas kiln 99% of the time.

    Humitity meter in shop tells me what to do with the heater.

    Today with two glaze fires going I had to trim and keep the pie plates away from kiln area (to hot to soon) 

     

  4. On 6/29/2021 at 9:13 AM, GEP said:

    In the summer (now) I have a constant battle with humidity. Sometimes I throw pots one day, and they are not ready to trim for two days. Pots that have been drying for a week still feel damp, and it's impossible to tell if they are really damp or not. I use fans to keep the air moving in the studio, and when I run bisque firings, I roll my drying cart over next to the kiln for the warmth and the airflow from the vent.

    In the winter I have the opposite problem. Thrown pots can have bone dry rims by the next morning, and pots with attachments need to be slowed down so they don't pull apart. I use sheets of fabric and plastic to control the drying.

    There are a few glorious weeks in the spring and fall when I don't need to think about these things. 

    Something to consider -I have installed two Mr Cool mini splits in our house in last two years (one last week)

    Besides being the most effecent heat and cool heat pumps made they also have a dehumidifier function which could dry out your basement. The smallest unit is about $1,200 (they make 5 models of the DIY models)so for about $1400 total (wiring /breaker and pad) it could cool and heat and dehumidify your basement.

    Of course I did all my own work and so can anyone if you are handy-check them out on You Tube-Available at all bog box stores etc. I got mine from supplyhouse.com ,no big box around here. Free shipping-they seem to be all fair priced the same everywhere.

    Its a cheap option and they use very little electricity-could cure your issue and add cool or heat as well.

    By the way these mini splits are all over the world especially in Asia but are just now hitting the US market. I have a solar electric system so power is alraedy paid for and these only use small amouts of electricity .They heat down to near zero degrees and cool when its hotter than a kiln-so climate location really does not matter.

  5. In the 70s we laerned to use our hands to see how the glaze ran off. Thats how I did it as a collage tec for about 4 years.

    Later it was the right hydrometer  which I only used in the touchy glazes

    -ruining 35 cubic feet of pots because of runny glaze is no fun (been there done that)

    now its  weigh in syringe -super quik and easy

    on another note mixing dry glaze to wet it takes a while (a day really to saturate all the small particles) so the measurement for me is taken later after the glaze sits for some time (usually a day)

  6. Add water to change the SP not Darvon

    I like using  the weigh method with the 100 ml syringe that Min spoke abopuit last year. Easier to read than the hydrometer.

    Best way to find what works with what glaze is testing-some glazes it really does not matter much. This clears for me are that way -I can tell but how it runs off my hand.(i wear gloves when glazing to save my hands from drying out)

    Matt glazes are more critical as are high rutile base glazes and I use the weigh technique to get it right-out of my 15 usual glazes I only measure 3 of them.

    Of course experience plays a big role-you learn this over time<My clay is porcealin and glazes are cone 10

  7. CT-30 / desertalc  was long gone over 20-30 years ago, so your supplier had a bit of new old stock. I still use a bit to this day but its almost gone,one bag left..Do not bother thinking you will find more.

    In terms of Texas talc which has been the main talc most use for decades it going away very soon if not already. Its grey in color. You may be abloe to still buy some bags

    I have used sierra light (a white talc for many decades) Its a white talc and costs more$

    My suggestion is buy a supply (lifetime preferably) and adjust your glazes for it and not worry about supply side issues.

    I have a few glazes that use different talc types

    Suppliers like laguna Clay Co.  are scrambling to replace Texas talc at this time

    welcome to the forum and good luck with the talc hunt.

  8. I cannot help you with that exact glaze but will add that its to think and has run down into what I refer to as broken windshield (thats a condition that makes that thick crazed unsafe for food use look

    I'm guessing its a light cobalt glaze over porcelain clay body

    applied way to thick or over fired take your choice same result

  9. 2 hours ago, Chilly said:

    I thought you were slowing down ????????

    I was before covid hit and sales went thru the roof. I have not done an art show in 18 months and still, have a best year of my life sales wise.

    slowing down got kicked out the studio door with orders thru the moon. I have said no to some lately.

    The kiln buy has been in the  brain works for 3 years now and I still am on the fence-a smaller kiln sounds good at times

  10. I have had a fair amount of Requests for older info on Brent wheels-all from the 70s mainly thru PM's and E-mails. I'll cover all the questions I have answered in the past years here.

    This is my original Brochure from 1969-1970-I bought a model C then from Robert Brent himself. At that time the model C and CXC where the only two models he made. The CXC was a direct drive transmission and could spin a 3/4 ton truck . The model C had two separate belts. Both had flat heavy duty decks with flat formica on top. The foot pedals where like in photos not like todays models. 

    You can replace the potentiometer  by following that link at top of Equipment page on Brandon's post.

    The splash Pans  where galvanized sheet metal and just slid in under the wheel head with no attachment .You can make one from say a plastic bowl like container. I like to find them at Asian Markets as they have the best selections

    The CXC has a 1/2 steel thick deck and weight 160#s -yes 1/2 plate steel. The Model C was 1/4 inch thick deck and weighed 120#s. I still have my model C and its heavy.

    The transmission takes 90 weight oil in that CXC. 

    The control boxes where metal electrical boxes and were to small for all the contents and can be replaced with deeper boxes if you are working on one.

    Any rust can be neutralized using Ospho bought online or any Ace Hardware store and let set for 24 hours then spray with flat black paint after 1st wire brushing away the loose material.

    If your motor is blue (its original) the brushes are not user changeable -just take it to an electric motor shop and have them change out any neaded bearings or brushes at the same time.

    If you have a bearing out on the wheeled (its all one unit) you can unbolt it from deck and replace with new Brent wheelhead but the shaft size on the model C was 5/8 and the new shaft/wheelheads are 3/4 so you will need new 3/4 inch shaft belt pulley as well

    In Brent wheelheads the bearing and shaft/wheelhead are one piece so you need the whole deal.. The good news is they can last a lifetime unless you are a production potter.

    All newer Brent motors have user friendly replacement brushes (non Blue motors).

    Hope this helps those who buy these older Brent wheels

    The wiring brochure is from the old days-the last document is the spring tension on wheels from the  late 70s onward written by an old acquaintance from Amaco/ Brent  Paul Scowden

    IMG_4096.jpeg

    IMG_4097.jpeg

    IMG_4101.jpeg

    IMG_4098.jpeg

    IMG_4100.jpeg

    IMG_4103.jpeg

    IMG_4104.jpeg

    IMG_4105.jpeg

  11. (and they are not very responsive. They loosely say what they want and then disappear and don't respond to emails...then when I follow up, they apologize for not responding, respond to 2-3 of my questions. And disappear again... I will learn a lot from experiences like this, I guess. Thank you for sharing your advice and your experience. I can learn a lot from that as well. And learning that one can say no and that somethings are not worth the time and stress is a super important lesson! Thanks again!)

     

    This is all a bad sign for any business deal-I would just say no at this point

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.