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Mark C.

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Posts posted by Mark C.

  1. 1 hour ago, Denice said:

    If you have snap on lids that are hard to remove you can buy a tool at a paint store that makes it a lot easier,  gentle on your hands.   I got one as a gift,  it is yellow  heavy plastic L shaped with a pry type edge on one end.  It is made for removing 5 gal lids,  they are inexpensive.      Denice

    Its a must have tool-I keep one in shop and one in studio

  2. I have several larger-20 gallon buckets from restaurant supply stores with great snap lids for my popular glazes as well as a 30 gallon industrial tub whick I use a painted wood round that sits on top  for a lid and is a small table space when not in use as well for my rutile glaze which I use the most

    when handles or buckets break I toss them .

    We jusice apples here yearly as a community event and always have at least 25  buckets in upside down stacks so buckets are a commodity for us-peopole supple me with them. Wed pick apples with them wash apples in wheelbarrows and drain in 5 gallon buckets and hual them to the power press in them. I have food quaility buckets in an out building as well for honey and food storage .

  3. I have at least 35 ,5 gallon buckets-never bought a new one ever. Either they came from products like wax or paint or mud or whatever-as a home owner you are always buying 5 gallons of this or that. Or I knew  many a house painter who went thru buckets like falling rain drops-unlimited supply.

    Of couse there is no Lowes or Home Depot near me -the closest is a 3 hour drive.

  4. If you never move the kiln have the electrician wire the kiln into a box without a plug.Its called hardwiring . Then the loose plug/fire issue is eliminated.

    My kiln is hardwired and never will I  have your issue. At that 48 amp draw any oxidation or corrosion makes the parts heat up and will melt or catch fire during a firing.

    If you go with the plug ckeck it now and again for issues

  5. the two clicks is when it is on set then turn to whaterver hours you want it to be on full. No matter if its a 8 hour bisque fire or a 8 hour glaze fire. Turn the nob to set push the kiln setter button to on and listen for two clicks then turn hour dial to whatever number you want. The two clicks is the set up to turn the hour dial.

    You want an 8 hour bisque and maybe a 8-9 hour glaze-since the kiln is so small you need to see how long you need -my guess is bisque maybe set dial for 6 hours and glaze maybe 5 hours . Testing will be needed-get some cones in fire as well as the sitter cone.

  6. I fire with a fire right controller all the time and that switch looks exactly the same as theres.I think Aim used their switch back in the day.

    On my kiln there are three sections with three other switches -you set them to high and leave them alone forever(never touched them in 25 years-left on high)

    now the expanation

    that knob with the numbers-1-10 is when in approx hours the kiln will be on high-so set up the cone setter with whatever cone you are firing to-for this lets says its a bisque to cone 08 (thats my to go bisque temp with porcelain. In your case cone 04. Put that cone bar (I prefer bars over cones) set up the claw and  set the dial to set -push the on button (hole in claw) to turn on kiln

    let the cycle make two clicks takes a about 10-30 seconds-you should hear the clicks. After that turn the knob to say 4 and that means in 4 hours the kiln (all the elements will be on high/full on.

    The Numbers roughly correspond to hours and that is when its on full so if you set the dial for two then in two hours elements are on full (to hot  to fast for a bisque) I dial 3-4 hours with most bisques and the pots are dry pots-longer for wet pots-if they are wet crack the lid and drop it after 800 degrees if dry a but less.

    Your kiln will now fire to cone 04 and the sitter will turn it off.

    On my kiln I also have a timer which ios another safety to shut it off. Since yours does not I would make sure yours goes off and never trust 100% the sitter-always check tio see its off .

    Try this and see if it works like i have discribed if not tell us.

    Mark

     

  7. When I did a throwing DEMO for a group on the whisper everyone can hear very well-but on a Brent everyone can hear me very well as I am not a quiet talker.

    The whisper dogged down with larger amouts to center and that annoyed me the most about that wheel as well as the splash pan plastic to me looks like it will not stand up to community studio use. Every wheel has it pros  and cons

    I feel Brent and TS/skutts are really well made toughness wise-never seen a Bailey but would guess they also are well made if it anything like my electric slab roller.

    I feel when cutting metal roofing with a power saw its noisy but its nothing compared to me jack hammering concrete. Its all relative

  8. Been working on Brent wheels for 50 years now and I have no idea what the big deal is -yes they make some noise but so does any motor. Whispers are the less noisy wheels all others make more noise. So does my band saw motor and table saw motor and grinfer motor in fact they make more noise than a potters wheel.

    I think Callie just wants her voice and no other sound is my guess.

  9. Nails will not stand cone 10 firings-forget about nails

    The heavy nichrome wire is all that will maybe make it at those temps.The heaver the better

    You can make a clay stilt with clay points out of cone 10 clay-that would be your best option-you can also use old electric kiln elements as the points if you have some-heat them and streech them out-or use some element pins-they will work once.Use them in the clay stilt you make as points

  10. For many years all thru the 70s Brent had no belt guards does your shaft under the wheel head have a flange? That is for a Brent splashpan to clip into.  If it has no flange then it’s flat deck (no lip around edge) most likely and is from the early 70s

    can you post a photo of the front of controller (on off switch)

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