Mark C.
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Posts posted by Mark C.
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Glue is for broken molds (two pieces ) not repairing cracks. I do not think its possible to fix cracks. Spend your time make a new mold
If you fine a miracle cure let us know.
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The glue that is a step above Elmers is Titebond wood glue. Its like Elmers in all reguards except its waterproff when dry
- Jeff Longtin and H Palmer
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Either change the body or the glaze
lots of white glazes out there
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On 5/17/2023 at 7:47 AM, ZAN Ceramics said:
Anyone know of a professional mold maker in Northern California? I’m looking for someone who makes the molds from my original pieces and cast’s the pieces in production that I can pay, as I don’t want to make them / cast them myself . Thanks!
Let us know if you ever find this please,as many have asked before
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If say you break a mold in 1/2 you can use waterproof wood glue to glue it back together . I do that with throwing plaster bats. In terms of repairing a cracked (not broken mold) I know of no fix that will work well so try anything but expect it to fail. Molds should not be overheated but you now know that. Ceramics is hard lessons learned and you are on the right path.
- Kelly in AK and H Palmer
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22 hours ago, jayden said:
Hello, I recently breathe in clay dust since I had art class. Someone I was sitting smelled it so i decided to smell it what do I do? Should I go to the doctors or ER
No big deal for a short exposure as noted by Pres.
Breathe easy now
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If you use pure lube made for this it does not hinder the plaster at all-
https://shop.clay-planet.com/pure-lube-mold-soap---ip-240.aspx
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scumming for me needs more explanation ? its not a word I use in relation to glazes. Bubbles ,pitting.crawling. overfired ,underfired,cracked. shivering,dunted,rough surface smooth surface . shinny surface matt surface??Dull.bright??
scumming is what happens on a bucket of funky water or a pond surface
what is scumming?? and what are we looking for in the photos- as both are very close looking as as Babs said one looks to be cooler fired
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I own two Peter puggers. They are easy to clean out. The smaller 20SS has 4 bolts on the nose cone (thats all you have to undo) that you can take off then the chamber is cleaned from above and the nose cone is easy to wipe outthe hole now leads to the main chamber,the shaft runts down the center and is self supporting . You only need to do this to change clay bodies say different temp bodies or say stoneware to Porcelain. The clay stays soft when it seals up. I thing the Peter pugger is by far the easiest to clean time wise.
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Russ I have a spare blower excatly like that on on your stack if you need a spare. I'm downsizing it this summer
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Wood kilns take time but if they are made right you can fast fire them-Olsen has a fast fire wood kiln in one of his books it had two fireboxes if I recall . An local earthquake took it down the next year at my place.-we built it in the 70s and took about 24 hours. The wood type and dryness will make or break this speed.
Wood firing is a young persons deal as far as I'm concerned -just a bunch of long back breaking work-hey it ceramics right.
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Been in the french butter business for over 40 years and most folks do not wash them out and start over enough. Leads to many issues. Remember its not a long term storage container. Wash it out at least every few weeks.
We personaly use a covered butterdish ona plate bottoms as it easier to keep clean .
Most customers go sideways with these items and ask about how to use them later although I have detailed instructions in each pot I sell.
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The current Ceramics Monthly shbow how to pack work like yours.
The idea is build a open frame with a floor connect your work to floor -then put frame in a box with the padding on the outside od frame so its not touching the work-but keeps the frame protected. Work gets shipped likke this all over the world . its a pain but doable. Use Pirate ship .com to save $$$they have the best UPS rates period.
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Well the book turned out pretty good. It's filled with color photos and spans 50 years of ceramic artists that came from the Laundry. I have several photos in the book as well. They sent me a link to it as its on amazon now as well. Its good read on a fantastic clay facility .
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You said (I just didn't know its actually quantifiable.)
I think its to small to even consider
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definitely a european model as no oven infinite switch is on the USA skutt models. Must be small kiln at 09 amps and 3300 amps
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1 hour ago, neilestrick said:
If it's currently set up for 3 phase, talk to ConeArt and see what will be required to convert it to single phase. Often it's very minor changes. Most likely you will not have 3 phase service available at your house.
Unless you live next to a fish processing plant or a deep freezer plant. Or a mining outfit with rock crushers or a huge boat yard. You get the drift lots of POWER needed for them.
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Looking at the specs-if its a 3 phase its 50 amp
singel phase 80-90 amp breaker
3 phase is not in many places so check this out at your location (many homes do not have 3 phase ) and with seller to see whats the kiln really is single or 3 phase . If its on a 50 amp breaker my guess its 3 phase.
one ome important item to clear up
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I thought Skutt kilns all had 3 level switches -Low,Meduim,high-never seen an infinite one on a Skutt kiln?
I know they make kilns for the european market that are speced differently . Maybe the switches are one of those items . . One I know is a thin wrap of fiber under the Jackets. I was told they had to for the Greek market. I adopted this and it been great. You can get that really thin fiber(about 1/8 inch) at kilnshelve.com
Seeking West Coast kiln manual
in Equipment Use and Repair
Posted
They made many types and sizes what is yours? I do not have a west coast but other may want this info