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  1. Finally got the answer I've been looking for. It is wired to a 70 Amp breaker, and I'm obviously in need of a higher amperage. Here's to hoping we can get it rewired promptly and get the thermocouple issue fixed.
  2. Working on fixing the thermocouple issue. I appreciate your feedback about the fuse. There could've been a loose connection somewhere, I've been investigating every connection I can to check for something coming loose. Haven't been able to determine a true loose connection yet. The fuses are the ones installed by paragon. The replacement was the exact same fuse. It is a 208 volt kiln. There's a possibility of voltage spike, which is in a student union so the possibility of a spike is probable, however everyone I have talked continues to give me the same response being it shouldn't be spiking and it is hard wired into the appropriate amp. I'm pretty sure it is hard wired to a fused disconnect. Would I need to get an electrician to check the amps on the breaker? Also what amperage would the 208 need to be wired to? This is very helpful dialogue for me! I have been weary of the breaker not being the appropriate amperage, and almost had an electrician lined up to come out but the kiln started working again during the period of time so the ball got dropped on having the electrician come check the wiring. Thanks immensely! M. Williams
  3. I own four Paragons, including the Super Dragon. From my experiences, one of two things is going on: The sheath over the thermocouple is cracked/and cracked the thermocouple which results in FTL codes. However, I had random readings on my Super Dragon and TNF, and through trial and error I figured it out. Where the terminal ends of the thermocouple/s come through the kiln wall and connect to the terminal block was the problem. The thermocouple wires are stripped bear just prior to attachment to the block. In one instance they were barely touching between the block and kiln wall. In the other instance they were so close that when the kiln got hot enough, just that little expansion caused them to touch creating a FTL code and random readings. My solution was to take a very small piece of kiln rope, separating the wires (very very carefully) and wedging the piece of rope between them so they could not touch. No problems after that. Again-very very carefully... fragile little creatures they are. Nerd Nerd Thank you for your input based off of your personal troubleshooting and successes. I have checked and rewired all the connections to the thermocouple already, tightened them going into the block and the lead wires. After adjusting the wires, and tightening them at the block the TC2- code was still appearing. I will go back in and check to make sure that they don't have the potential to get too close to each other during the firing. If the wires appear to be too close I will very carefully separate them. However I don't have any kiln rope on hand. Thanks! M. Williams-
  4. Mark, A thermocouple is already on its way! The program I work for orders through bigceramicstore.com because they have PO account with them and it tends to be adequately cheaper than directly through paragon. So we end up waiting just a bit longer on shipping time since its through a third party. Not my first choice but either way its on the way! Just hoping it fixes the problem! -M. Williams
  5. The facility in which I am working is currently awaiting the prolonged install of a replacement gas reduction kiln. In the meantime they have been firing cone 10 oxidation in a Paragon Viking 28, single phase, with a max temp of 2350F. It is hard wired to what I've been told is the appropriate amperage. When I was brought on board the kiln was failing to reach cone 10 and giving the FTL (Fired Too Long) code. At that juncture when we opened up the switch box the top segment of elements were slightly brown, we tightened the brass bits and the pigtails, all the elements were testing okay, as well as the relays. We fired the kiln with a load of only furniture and it reached temperature. So we fired it again, it didn't reach temperature and displayed the FAIL code. Replaced the thermocouple, and opted for a Type S model because it is rated for porcelain and stoneware temperatures. Reset the controller to the Type S model. Fired the kiln twice and FTL'd on the second firing, then replaced all the elements. The kiln fired perfectly to cone 10 for the next 7 firings. The alarm sounded at around 2100F on the 8th firing even though the alarm was maxed out and set to 9999. We hit enter on the kiln, stopped the alarm, the firing continued but did not reach temperature according the guard cones, but didn't give an error message. After it was unloaded the temperature was giving sporadic readings. Checked the wire connections, then tested the controller with a paper clip and it gave a room temperature reading. Opened the switch box and discovered that a fuse had blown. Replaced the fuse and the kiln fired perfectly for another 4 firings. On the 5th firing the alarm sounded around 2100F again, pressed enter, continued to fire and it failed to reach temperature. Turned the kiln off to run tests and check wire connections which everything appeared to be okay. Turned the power back on and now is showing TC2- (code for a failed thermocouple in the center two terminals of a multi-zone kiln, although can appear in a single zone kiln apparently) . The thermocouple is only 6 months old and has been through less than 15 firings. I have personally loaded and unloaded 90% of the firings since the thermocouple was replaced and I am highly cautious about staying clear of the thermocouple. I know that it is a very fragile thermocouple. It ultimately could be broken. Replacement has been ordered and its on its way. We are in the midst of an extremely busy term, with high volume, glaze ware is stacking up and I have a deep seated fear that the thermocouple may not fix the ongoing problems. If a mercury relay goes out can the kiln still run? Is there another major component of this model of kiln that could be perpetuating the alarm sounding, under-firing, causing a fuse to blow, ruining a fairly new thermocouple? What could have caused the wires connecting to the elements to brown? Could their be a connection between the browning of those wires and a bigger issue? I'm at a complete loss, and would like to get some preemptive feedback in case the thermocouple does not fix the issue, or the errors persist even once the thermocouple is in place. ~Worried Clay Worker -M. Williams
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