liambesaw Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 1 minute ago, LeeU said: My workbench today has a thrown and altered bowl form, then hand-worked with stamped, paddled, & incised techniques. I like how much work actually goes into making something look "other-than" a properly, nicely, thrown bowl. Isn't that great though? Throw a beautiful form and then slap it around a bit to make it interesting. I've recently gotten into paddling my forms on the wheel. Takes some getting used to but it's a lot of fun! I'm amazed at how hard I can whack a nice tall cylinder and still be able to shape it a bit afterward! As far as going electric, I have wanted an electric kiln for a very long time. Gas firing looks very nice and being able to reduce glazes and body is nice too, but it is expensive for me and requires my full attention for an entire day. It's tiring and I've got a 5 and 7 year old running around, so I am just glad I have one less thing to worry about. Callie Beller Diesel, Rae Reich and Bill Kielb 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 4 minutes ago, liambesaw said: Very nice, almost bone-like. Was the pinholing from high loi? When I put my glazes into insight I know that the loi figures are a rough guess, but I try to keep mine low by subbing out whiting and fiddling. It was not actually, but I am a low sodium then low calcium guy anyway with porcelain so when I can reduce these it is usually decent practice for me. This glaze would actually over fire so badly that it would literally dry up. It had little self healing capability as well. When I solidified this Bristol recipe it fired nicely, no pinholes and matte per the chemistry so LOI is usually not a super high primary interest to me especially if it works when in correct chemistry form.. I find if I can normalize these things in Stull and they fire per their chemistry then I can move from there to try and get it to look the way everyone thinks it should. Just my method, I am a UMF guy and do like a lot of Tony Hansen’s stuff, as well as Britt, Arbuckle, Katz and many others. just my method of keeping it simple for me. LOI has never been something I designed to unless I was worried about the efficiency in use of materials. liambesaw 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 Mostly throwing and trimming but I have a new project on my worktable. I was at a concert in a historical theater last week and notice a grill in a huge arched window, I have a arched opening on my front porch it needs art work that will block the North wind. I am working on a design for the tiles, I want to put wine and beer bottle bottoms in the openings, they will block the wind, still let light through and still look like a Spanish grill. I am thinking of using Laguna Red Calico, it will be expose to nasty winters so if someone has a better idea on clay I am all ears. Denice Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 57 minutes ago, Denice said: Mostly throwing and trimming but I have a new project on my worktable. I was at a concert in a historical theater last week and notice a grill in a huge arched window, I have a arched opening on my front porch it needs art work that will block the North wind. I am working on a design for the tiles, I want to put wine and beer bottle bottoms in the openings, they will block the wind, still let light through and still look like a Spanish grill. I am thinking of using Laguna Red Calico, it will be expose to nasty winters so if someone has a better idea on clay I am all ears. Denice I'd use porcelain. The lower the absorption rate the better. Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 According to my memory, there is a paragraph or two in Val Cushing's handbook on clay bodies for use in cold climates. Fully vitrified porcelain is not one of those clay bodies, as I remember; there is a optimum porosity for freeze - thaw requirements. Also check the Rhodes & Hopper book on clay bodies. Remember that roof tiles and bricks have been used in cold and snowy regions for several hundred years and they have survived lots of freeze thaw cycles. LT Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 Depends on the structure of the claybody, have to measure the porosity, which is different than absorption. It's my understanding that if the clay has a somewhat open pore structure, that is to say there are little tunnels (for lack of a better description) in the body then when absorbed water is frozen it has somewhere to go when it expands. So, either zero absorption and porosity like a porcelain body or a body with absorption and porosity but within a specific range. I have the info regarding procedure and figures somewhere, if you want me to dig it out @Denice let me know and you can run your own tests on whatever body you are thinking of using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 Clay tile roofs are great in warm climates and protect from UV quite well, plus they have mass and are less susceptible to uplifting forces. Final Waterproofing for these systems almost always depends upon the underlayment. Just a thought so minor cracks in clay tile not really a tremendous concern including cedar shakes unless the underlayment is not water tight. I would vote for the tight porcelain body myself. Assuring enough room for water expansion is difficult at best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted January 29, 2019 Report Share Posted January 29, 2019 (edited) I have used the Red Calico on a large exterior fountain before but it was glazed, I was thinking I could put a clear on it if needed. I ordered some clay from California to make a clay tile roof several years ago for a mailbox roof. It was also a C6 clay and very coarse, no glaze and I haven't had any problems with it. By the time I got it shipped to Kansas it cost me a dollar a pound, I'm sure the costs would be higher now. We are having some frigid weather this week I think I'll boil a Red Calico pot and thrown it into some snow and leave it there for a couple of months. I read a article about building a ceramic patio wall in a 1960's Ceramics Monthly years ago. I have it stored on my old computer. I need to spend some time searching for it I don't remember the year or month it was published. Bill you are right about the membrane on a tile roof, I had them put a rubber membrane under my tile roof when we built our house. I didn't want my ceilings ruined if the tiles were damaged by hail. The roof is concrete tiles and breaks much easier than clay tiles. Denice Edited January 29, 2019 by Denice addded info Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 denice, Penland has a wall that is made of a mosaic of many different pieces. could the article be related to that? i have taken pics of it and remember the planter that was the bottom half of a human sitting down on the wall, it was done in a pinkish clay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 I look at the Penland web site and see if I can find the article. I had a Red Calico pot sitting around in my studio, it had been fired to C6 with just some stains on it no glaze. I've got it outside to take advantage of the Polar Vortex moving into our area. I need to throw some glass molds for broken glass and do some tests, it will be a several months before I have to make a decision on the clay. I need to make 60 two inch discs and 15 three inch discs that are about a inch thick. It has been awhile since I have worked with glass in the kiln. I have done some research, it is all coming back ready to start testing. Denice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeU Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 I now have the 9th piece --a textured bowl--to add to what I'll fire in the anagama kiln in April. I'm aiming for 15, and those still to come need to be spectacular---well, at least they need to reflect some elevated creative effort on my part! The 3 pieces shown are a fair example of where my head is heading--pun intended. Rae Reich, Gabby and Hulk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 On 1/30/2019 at 9:00 AM, Denice said: I look at the Penland web site and see if I can find the article. I had a Red Calico pot sitting around in my studio, it had been fired to C6 with just some stains on it no glaze. I've got it outside to take advantage of the Polar Vortex moving into our area. I need to throw some glass molds for broken glass and do some tests, it will be a several months before I have to make a decision on the clay. I need to make 60 two inch discs and 15 three inch discs that are about a inch thick. It has been awhile since I have worked with glass in the kiln. I have done some research, it is all coming back ready to start testing. Denice If you really want to do a stress test for freeze/thaw, the best time to do it is in the fall when things are beginning to freeze but the days are still nice, or at the first hint of spring when you have warm days but nights are still below freezing. You want a nice temperature vasilation between -3 and +3 C. I’ve killed more terra cotta pots by not covering them up soon enough..... oldlady 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 Well I'm all out of space again, so more firings this weekend! Have a bisque load ready and then I'll have to do a few glaze firings. If I keep it up at this rate I'll have enough to do a farmers market or whatnot in no time shawnhar and Rae Reich 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 I plan to do a boil freeze test in my freezer also. The polar vortex has moved on and it is suppose to be 66 by Sunday and back down to 8 Wednesday. Our weather has been this way all winter. I am making glass discs that look like old bottles as part of the design. I making the molds for the crush glass now and will start test firing my glass. I plan to use clear beer bottles for the smaller outer discs and colored wine bottles for the center. I need about 80 small discs and 20 large ones, I am going to see if I can get empty clear bottles from bars. My husband volunteered to drink that much beer but it would take him six months, I don't want to wait that long. Denice Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 Trimming the openings in salt pigs. Think it takes me longer to try and get the holes cut more or less evenly and round than it takes to throw them. neilestrick, Rae Reich, GEP and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 Wow they all look so good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Min said: Trimming the openings in salt pigs. Think it takes me longer to try and get the holes cut more or less evenly and round than it takes to throw them. Min I got tired of salt pigs taking so long-I worked on a copper pipe to cut my opening like a hole cutter. I like an oval opening but since yours are round this will go easier for you. I ovaled the larger copper pipe fitting and then ground the inside down to a point with a Dremel tool . You could do this with platic pipe or fittings(these vary in size) Just find the size you want and sand or grind the edge to a point and t=now you have a fast punch. It works great then sponge smooth. Saves tons of time. Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 Today it extruded soap dishes sponge holders-butterdishes and mugs. Short day Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 39 minutes ago, Mark C. said: Today it extruded soap dishes sponge holders-butterdishes and mugs. Short day Can I see what those look like? For me, I've got a bunch of mugs to trim and handle, and another bunch of mugs to throw. I have been making sake sets for my relatives in Japan, hopefully going back this year Rae Reich 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 Thanks Liam! 7 hours ago, Mark C. said: I ovaled the larger copper pipe fitting and then ground the inside down to a point with a Dremel tool . You could do this with platic pipe or fittings(these vary in size) Just find the size you want and sand or grind the edge to a point and t=now you have a fast punch. It works great then sponge smooth. Saves tons of time. Good idea Mark, I've got a round cookie cutter, I'll try that out next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 10 hours ago, liambesaw said: Can I see what those look like? For me, I've got a bunch of mugs to trim and handle, and another bunch of mugs to throw. I have been making sake sets for my relatives in Japan, hopefully going back this year You meanDxtruded soap dishes thrown -butterdishes -spongeholders and mugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 Extruded soap dishes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 Today I threw the bodies and necks for some tall bottles. I really enjoy assembling these. The bodies are 3lbs of clay, 12" tall. The necks only require 1lb since they're so narrow. I'll lose about 3" to shrinkage, so the finished pots will be just under 18". shawnhar, Denice, GEP and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted February 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 18 hours ago, Mark C. said: Min I got tired of salt pigs taking so long-I worked on a copper pipe to cut my opening like a hole cutter. I like an oval opening but since yours are round this will go easier for you. I ovaled the larger copper pipe fitting and then ground the inside down to a point with a Dremel tool . You could do this with platic pipe or fittings(these vary in size) Just find the size you want and sand or grind the edge to a point and t=now you have a fast punch. It works great then sponge smooth. Saves tons of time. When I make salt pigs anymore, I just throw a rounded jar with a short lip, lay an embroidery hoop over the top at an angle and cut with a fettling knife, then reverse the top 180 degrees and rejoin. Angled cut sets the opening at near a 45. best, Pres Babs and Rae Reich 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 2 hours ago, Pres said: When I make salt pigs anymore, I just throw a rounded jar with a short lip, lay an embroidery hoop over the top at an angle and cut with a fettling knife, then reverse the top 180 degrees and rejoin. Angled cut sets the opening at near a 45. I've seen them made like this but for my style the simple ones I make suit my aesthetic more. (plus they are relatively fast with no joining) Thanks though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.