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Everything posted by neilestrick

  1. If you look at the first photo, the saggar top fits inside the base, forming a decent seal. There's no way to 100% seal a saggar, nor is it necessary.
  2. The DTP-56 controller was a very early digital kiln controller. It only has one ramp speed and set point, so not at all ideal. A good firing happens in several different ramps, not just one. You really want a kiln that can do several ramps. The good news is that there's a really good chance that the kiln has all the parts necessary to swap out the controller for a new one that would be much more functional. However we really need to know the correct model number and the condition of the bricks to make an accurate judgment on the value of the kiln. Can you post pics of the interior and exterior of the kiln?
  3. 50 feet won't be a problem. Nothing other than the elements will need to be changed since it will still be single phase.
  4. Code requires that a kiln be on a breaker that is rated 25% greater than the draw of the kiln. So even though the kiln pulls 48 amps, it needs a 60 amp breaker. Chances are your 50 amp circuits use 6 gauge wire, which is also appropriate for 60 amp circuits. The EFL-1626 uses a 60 amp circuit. The Jupiter kilns are expandable, but you can't just plop another ring on and be good to go. You'll have to order the control box already wired for additional kiln sections, and you'll have to re-wire the electrical supply circuit if you added a section, as more sections require more amperage. You may also need to change all the elements in the kiln if you add a ring. I have this conversation with a lot of customers, and in 17 years of selling kilns I've never had anyone decide that it was worth the cost and effort. It's easier and more cost effective to just get a kiln that's a bit larger than you need and grow into it over the next few years. As your skills and speed with clay improve, you'll have an easier time filling the kiln. Plus you can get Easy Fire and eQuad models with more power than the Jupiters, the control boxes are easier to work in, and there are fewer electrical junctions where things can go wrong.
  5. You'll definitely need to change the elements if you're going to be running it on 240 volt service. Your elements have to match your voltage. If you run a 208 volt kiln on 240 volt service the elements will run too hot and you'll pull too much amperage. A though on the floor- clean it off so it'll sit evenly and flip it over. Put a piece of sheet metal on the kiln stand and put a layer of 1" fiber blanket between the metal and floor slab. The fiber will compress where the floor it still good, and fill in the void where it's eaten away. Would probably be cheaper than a new slab. This is assuming there's enough brick left around the edge to support it. It looks like one section is wired up, correct? Just wire the other section to match. Each switch has 2 power wires that go to the Sitter, one from each side of the Sitter. The black wire is the ground, and it connects to the stud at the top/bottom of the box by where the wires go through, usually with a wing nut. 6 gauge wire is correct if the run isn't so long that you'll have a voltage drop.
  6. A quick flicker won't always affect all electronics the same. Some are more sensitive to flickers than others. It's also possible that there's a problem with that circuit, like maybe the breaker is having issues. It could also be a bad fuse holder on the kiln. I've seen those go bad several times.
  7. 120V test kilns don't have a lot of power. It won't be able to keep up with a 400F/hr ramp, but I would expect it to be able to run 250-300F/hr at least up to 1900F or so, and it should be able to run 100F/hr at the end. Holds can be tricky on a kiln that doesn't have a lot of power. When the kiln first reaches peak, it's not uncommon for the temp to drop a little when it starts the hold, as it takes it a couple minutes to get into rhythm of the hold. Tiny kilns also don't have a s much mass to hold heat, so the elements have to work harder to do the hold. How old are the elements? Sounds like they may need replacing.
  8. When you get a power failure, the kiln will decide whether or not to restart, depending on how much it cooled. So it may have failed while going up, then started up when the power came back on and completed the firing. I believe it'll read PF until you clear it, though. Or it may have had the failure during cooling, in which case you'd also have the PF. Some Skutt controllers will read PF any time you kill the power, even if it's not in a firing cycle. I see that all the time during repair work.
  9. Soylent Green is people! Seriously though, there are a number of meal replacement mixes out there that could be a great solution to the food problem. Thanks @GEP!
  10. I've used a couple of the Digitalfire clear glazes, and found that I needed to flux them a bit more to increase clarity. But first apply it thinner, and make sure you're firing to a solid cone 10.
  11. I work shows alone, so I take a cooler to every show with sandwiches, snacks, water, etc. I Invested in a good roto-molded cooler a few years ago and it can get through a 3 day show without needing to refill the ice so it was a worthwhile investment. It's this one if anyone's interested. It's cheap compared to a Yeti and works great, and holds enough food to get me through a weekend. I also take a small bag with food that doesn't need to be kept cold- chips, granola bars, etc. I always take way more food than I need, because some days I just get hungrier than others. If I do well on Saturday I'll often treat myself to buying lunch from one of the food trucks on Sunday, but that requires being able to leave my booth for 10-20 minutes, so I only do that at smaller shows if the show is slow and I can find a good booth sitter or neighbor to help out. At really big shows, trying to get out of the booth that long is impossible, so a stocked cooler is super important. Hunger can make a show a pretty miserable experience. In addition to food, I take two 32oz and one 64oz stainless steel insulated water bottles that can keep water cold all day. The 64oz is a backup that stays in the cooler, and I fill the 32oz bottles in the morning- at home if it's a local show, or at the hotel or wherever I get breakfast if it's an away show. Most coffee shops, McDonalds, bakeries, (wherever you get breakfast) are happy to fill bottles with ice water for you, especially if it's near the show and you mention that you're an artist. Most good shows will hand out water, but I hate the environmental impact of disposable water bottles so I try to avoid taking them.
  12. If you're going to mix in 50% alumina, there's no reason to use a clay as glassy and expensive as Frost. You'll negate any benefits of using Frost by adding alumina to it. Basically, it won't melt tight and glassy. Porcelain is clay, it's just a different blend than stoneware or earthenware. Due to it being so dense and glassy, it doesn't hold up well to repeated firings. The reason wadding works in repeated firings is because it is not at all dense. Just use EPK and alumina. Or use a cone 10 stoneware and only fire it to bisque temps.
  13. Firing that fast it was probably the kiln. Even bone dry pots have moisture in them and can explode if fired too quickly.
  14. Definitely an issue that it fired that fast. At some point it's going to blow something up, and you're not going to get all the organics burned out well going that fast. Is there another setting you can try?
  15. If it's a shared garage, I wouldn't do it. Too many possibilities for the neighbors to cause trouble, both from a safety standpoint and complaining.
  16. It looks a bit over-fired to me. It should be bent to 90 degrees. Adjust the sitter by lowering the tab that is held by the claw, so that the claw doesn't have to move as far to release it.
  17. Yep, just do a bisque with the kiln empty.
  18. What brand is the controller? Do you mean V6-CF Bartlett controller?
  19. The difference between all the L&L test kilns is the max temp that they will reach and which controller it has. You want a cone 10 kiln with the full Dynatrol or Genesis, not the 3 button controller. The 3 button works fine, but it's not as easy to use and won't be the controller you get on your big kiln.
  20. I can't remember. Skutt may tell you if you ask nicely, though. Let us know if you find out.
  21. If you want a kiln that'll run on a 120V 20 amp circuit, look at the Olympic Doll-E. Nice little test kiln that'll go to cone 10, so great for cone 6 stuff. It's small, though. But you may already have a 20 amp line in the garage, or it's easy to pull new wire through an existing 15 amp line.
  22. Lots of electric kilns have pilot lights but they're not a pilot burner like on a gas kiln, it's just an indicator light that comes on when the elements are powered up.
  23. I'm not a mold maker, so hopefully someone with more knowledge than me chimes in, but I'm thinking there are two possibilities: 1. You need to let the mold sit out for a few days, even a week, to totally dry out. It may just be saturated and isn't drying enough between uses. 2. The absorbency is decreasing due to the buildup of soluble materials in the plaster.
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