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Everything posted by neilestrick

  1. At 41 amps it would run on a 50 amp service, however it would technically need a 60 amp breaker to be up to code. I think if you really want to be able to fire to cone 6 easily you should look at something like the L&L e23S-3 or equivalent (23 wide by 18 tall). It pulls 39.4 amps on 240V 1P service so it'll run on a 50 amp breaker, and is rated to cone 10. It's only 4.4 cubic feet, so half the size of what you currently have, but that's the size of kiln you're going to get if you want it to have the power to fire to cone 6 with good element life.
  2. Ah yes now I remember. At 42 amps that kiln was not really a cone 10 kiln, more like cone 8 at best. At 35 amps it's definitely not a cone 8 kiln. You simply aren't pulling enough wattage to make it to cone 6 efficiently. Your kiln is 8.8 cubic feet, the 2018 you mention is 5.5 cubic feet. They both draw 35 amps and the smaller one is listed as a cone 8 kiln. Yours will get to cone 6 eventually, but the controller gets mad that it's going so slowly, and it's an expensive firing since it's running at full power for so long. The other problem is that once your elements wear even a little bit it's not going to get to cone 6 at all. You'll likely be changing out the elements every 30-50 firings, which is an expensive way to run a kiln. With a cone 8 model the element life will be better but still not great, about 75-90 firings. With a cone 10 kiln it'll be 130-150 firings. I find that Olympic kilns are on the low end of power for their size. For example, the 2018 is 5.5 cubic feet. An L&L e23M-3 or Skutt KM1022-3 is also 5.5 cubic feet. The Olympic pulls 36 amps, the L&L and Skutt pull 48 amps. Plus the Olympic is going to have a lot more heat loss since it's an oval with a lot of surface area on the lid and floor.
  3. Run the power to the the Sitter, then on to the relays and controller system. You'll need a Sitter and a mounting box for it like THIS, which you connect to the controller box via a section of conduit. You'll need to move the power cord over to the sitter box. The hole where the power cord was is where you can attach the conduit. You can either run it by setting the controller to a higher cone than the Sitter and letting the Sitter shut it off, or put a higher cone in the Sitter and having it be a safety backup in the event of the digital system over-firing. It would be good to figure out why the kiln is firing slowly and giving an error code, though.
  4. I've never had a high temp terminal be a problem in any setup.
  5. If there are sparks, one of the wires is touching something metal. Or you've got it wired wrong. But more likely something is touching.
  6. I find that it depends a lot on the location. Chicago suburb shows, very little cash. More rural Wisconsin shows, a lot more cash. I've done a show a couple of times where the cell phone reception is really, really bad, so processing credit cards was not even possible. I also see that more people have cash in the morning, less by afternoon as they run out of cash. I also think that more and more people are aware of the costs of processing credit cards and make a point of trying to spend cash at shows, at least for smaller pieces.
  7. What colors? The brown is known to be gritty, but that's the only color I've run into that has that problem. Are they very old? How many layers are you applying, and at what stage is the clay?
  8. All digital controllers off automatically, but you still need to make sure it did, as no controller is 100% fail safe.
  9. Skutt includes those adapters in their KS control box upgrade kits. You may be able to get some from them if you can't find them locally.
  10. @cadenrank Get some of THESE that screw onto the switch and then allow you to use 0.250" slip-on terminals on the wires. Makes for much easier repairs in the future. You'll need to figure out what size stud is on the switch and get the correct size, I just linked to the first one I saw.
  11. NO, you cannot use a 15-20amp converter. You need an outlet that's on a 20 amp breaker, not a 15 amp breaker. I wouldn't mess with this kiln. The broken bricks are going to cause the elements to sag and be a big problem. Replacing the broken bricks is going to be near impossible, assuming you can even get bricks that fit. It doesn't appear to have any sort of switches other than the on/off timer mechanism (not standard for kilns), which is far from ideal for firing pottery- no way to go slow. The kiln is only rated to 2000F, so it's only good for low fire work. I'd look for something in better condition with more modern controls.
  12. Firing programs don't have to be any thing complicated. The most important thing is the last 100C degrees, as the rate of climb in that segment will determine the heatwork. I start all of my programs with a preheat segment where I adjust the hold time as needed to dry things out: Cone 5 Stoneware Program 1. 60C/hr to 85C, hold as long as needed. No hold needed for dry pots. 2. 175C/hr to 1086C, no hold. 3. 60C/hr to 1186C, hold as long as needed. You only need a hold if you need a little more melt from your glazes. 4. You can use this segment for slow cooling, if desired. Cone 06 Earthenware Program 1. 60C/hr to 85C, hold as long as needed. No hold needed for totally dry pots unless they're thick. 2. 150C/hr to 898C, no hold. 3. 60C/hr to 998C, no hold.
  13. You should not be using either of those bodies for cone 6 work. They are both under-fired at cone 6, and only mature at cone 10. The cone 6 versions of of 181 is 240, the cone 6 version of 182 is 630. 240 is very smooth, prone to S-cracks, fires to a yellow-white. 630 is fairly smooth but has some fireclay in it that will leave a rough surface if sponged too much. It is very forgiving, and fires to a gray-white.
  14. If you're firing to cone 5, set your last 100C degrees to a rate of 60C/hr, and a peak of 1186C. On the schedule you've shown it looks like you're going too fast, which is not giving the glaze time to settle and/or develop enough heatwork.
  15. Get the biggest tank that you can manage in your situation and makes sense financially. I'd go with the 100# tank minimum to avoid freeze-up issues.
  16. Range cords are not usually rated 105C like kiln power cords should be. I did quote the wrong cord from Skutt, though. A 50 amp cord is $100. For this model it's $60.
  17. Functionally it shouldn't matter, but from a technical/safety/code standpoint it would probably be better to use the 6-20 since it's meant to have a ground.
  18. Hard to say if that's corrosion or dust in a kiln that dirty.....Of course it wouldn't hurt to replace it, but that's a $100 part so it would be good to leave it unless it's absolutely necessary.
  19. The power cord? I was thinking it looked pretty good, from what I can tell from the picture. No signs of overheating, no corrosion on the terminals.
  20. Just realized- there may be screw on connections on the switches, it just depends on which year it was made.
  21. The wire connections are all slip-on connections. You can pull them off with pliers, just make sure you're grabbing the connector not the wire. Give the inside a good vacuuming. Looks like it got wet at some point? A firing will likely clean up a lot of the discoloration on the bricks.
  22. That would be fine. Make sure the breaker is the right size for the Cress, 30 amps. The Paragon breaker is too big.
  23. The recipe doesn't seem unusual to me. I would definitely change the grog to something finer, though. The bucket method was probably developed because it's faster than weighing, but as any baker will tell you, volume measurements are not as accurate as weighing when you're dealing with powdered materials.
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