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Callie Beller Diesel

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Everything posted by Callie Beller Diesel

  1. It depends on the piece. Some clays and glazes take better to re-firing than others. Some glazes look better after they’ve been re-fired, some don’t. Some clays will bloat with re-firing, some you can fire multiple times with no trouble.
  2. Hi Diana and welcome to the forum! I’ve taken the liberty of adding to the title of your question so that you get more engagement on it. If you just use your name, people don’t know what info you’re looking for. The resale market for kilns right now is pretty hot. Lots of people are setting up studios because they haven’t had access to their usual group setups, or they just find they have more time now. You could maybe try getting the price down a few hundred dollars, but it might not be a bad price if it includes furniture.
  3. It looks like some of the raku glazes I used in high school. I wouldn’t want to mix any more than I needed at the time with that level of borax.
  4. @neilestrick The two switches work in tandem to control the entire kiln, not just one section. The sitter tube is right in the middle, and I put the cone pack on the bottom, because it’s usually the coldest part of the kiln.
  5. What Min said. Bonus points if you measure the specific gravity of the glaze. If it’s this sensitive to application, knowing how much water is in your glaze will help you get repeatable results.
  6. So this was REALLY not how I wanted to start a Monday morning. My kiln had been having issues (second hand 40 year old Cress with the thumbwheel, 6 elements,2 infinite switches, 2 relays and a cone sitter/timer. Wiring diagram here, if you’re interested. It usually turns itself up slowly through some mechanical/electrical math magic that I don’t fully understand, but think is kind of cool when it’s working. 2 weeks ago, it stopped turning itself up in the middle of a bisque. I finished the firing manually, and began a bunch of troubleshooting. Between my local clay supplier in Canada, a
  7. They have a couple of decals in their stock decal selection that combine China paint and metallic lustre. I’m sure they can help you.
  8. @FDR Arg. I had a complete brain sneeze there. I meant to refer you to Milestone originally. There’s a few different techniques that people create decals with. The YouTube video you’ve posted is something called a sublimation decal, and it uses different materials than what a decal specifically for pottery that would be fired on in a kiln does. People use them on water bottles or other hard surfaces. The sublimation print is NOT durable on a ceramic surface over time. It will come off with repeated washings that involve heat and soap, not just water. Also, applying it with an iron is no
  9. It appears just to be mad painting skills on the part of the decorators. Good brushes, well ground pigment, and a LOT of practice.
  10. You’d have to order decals and fire them on, but yes, it’s doable. Because of the setup minimums from decal companies for custom work like that, it’s not something you do if you just want one. Bel Decal offers this service.
  11. It’s been a minute since I worked with Stroke and Coat, but as I recall, they were reasonably glossy by themselves. Using them as overglazes on any stiff white glaze should be pretty straightforward. If it’s a stiff glaze, it means your application will be important, so you’ll want to make sure any drips or runs are smoothed off, because they won’t smooth out in the firing. If you don’t want to fire the pieces in between glaze application and overglaze, you might try spraying the piece with some laundry starch. It’s surprisingly effective. I do have a glaze that will fit the descrip
  12. @Jan Black Hi and welcome to the forum! If you read further up this thread, you'll find that LT-3k is the model number for the cone sitter, not the kiln itself. (It's the model for all cone sitters.) In the post that's two above yours is a link to Duncan, and they will have manuals there.
  13. You'll find you fill this kiln very quickly, which can be a good thing, or a nuisance depending on how prolific you are. It'll be a nice test size for later though. I have a Cress, and while it's hard to get it serviced in Canada, I will say it has needed very little from me. Also, Arturo at Cress is very helpful if you need any technical assistance.
  14. Putting my kiln back together so I can test some engobe recipes and some slip/ soda ash wash combos on some hanging planters. I had an infinite switch go on me. First electrical project, and first new designs I’ve tackled all year. It doesn’t sound like a lot but they feel pretty good. Also, I just want to put it out there in the event that someone else is reading this, and feeling some sort of guilt about not being “productive enough.” Rest is important to the creative process too, and you aren’t alone. I spent 2 months this year doing nothing in my business, because I couldn’t. Eve
  15. I’d put this recipe down and back away slowly. It’s pretty broken. It will not be a good beginner project to fix this one. The flux ratio is also way out to lunch, and with such a high LOI, I’m not surprised your surface decoration is breaking and running like that. I would suggest that whatever’s in the bucket at your community studio is not what was written on the bucket label. If you want a durable base glaze that doesn’t move much, pick one of the ones from digitalfire and add your 8% Zircopax to it. You may have to adjust for clay body fit, but that’s a smaller project than fixing
  16. That’s not a lot to go on. Do you know what glaze it’s modified from? If it has a name, have you tried searching that name in Glazy? What cone is it fired to?
  17. So a quick google search suggests that marble starts its geologic life as calcite or limestone, but gets crystallized with heat and pressure. I have no idea how the crystallization process would affect its availability in a glaze melt, but there is this entry on Digitalfire for limestone. I was interested in the bit at the bottom of the page about what happened with the clay/limestone mix being fired to cone 6 and what happened when it got wet. https://digitalfire.com/material/970 That said, it may not behave like limestone, and tests could prove interesting.
  18. If your choices are pottery plaster or plaster of Paris, use the pottery plaster. PoP won’t stand up to the level of moisture and it’ll crumble. I personally lay a bedsheet over my wire shelves and lay slurry out on that.
  19. Hi and welcome to the forum! As with everything in ceramics, the answers here can be case dependent. How stringently you hold to any of this can depend on your relationship with the buyer and the size of the order. I do recommend having systems in place ahead of time so that you present as professionally as you can. Any time you spell out expectations, even if it’s just in your own head, it helps protect both you and your buyer. To answer your questions in order: 1). Yes. A line sheet is a simple catalog, so that people can see what they’re ordering. It’s separate from, but can
  20. Define insanely boring. You can go as in depth or as light as you want with technical and chemical information. But knowing a few basics like firing range, how cones work or how absorbent your clay is when it’s mature will help you make the kinds of things that you want to make. Because there’s a lot to find out, usually you wind up learning as you go and figuring out things as you find you need the information. Doing it that way tends to make it not boring, because its information you want, need and are interested in.
  21. Using litres as a measurement instead of cubic inches is going to simplify the math as well. It’ll keep any conversions out of it.
  22. There are loads of fun tutorials on hand building plates on this website here, and there are others on YouTube as well. There’s some great ideas involving templates, so you can centre a foot ring on a hand built plate neatly. Many of them are low tech and can be used without involving things like plaster moulds. https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/search-results/?cx=015655428297685009518%3Ab3gq10fzvs4&cof=FORID%3A10&ie=UTF-8&sa=&q=Hand+built+plates
  23. I’m a big fan of using the materials that are available to you for lots of good reasons. Digitalfire has a listing for your P1000 frit, and out of the 2 most common Ferro frits, it’s closest to 3134. You would have to do some testing, but it looks like the kind of thing that you’d build a good cone 6/mid fire glaze around. Among the reasons for using a boron frit local to you: in conversation with my glaze supplier yesterday, we were discussing Ferro frit availabilities. The Ferro company is in the process of moving production from the US to Mexico, so there are supply disruptions for a
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